A bike, a couple of questions.
Good afternoon, dear users. I have a couple of questions regarding the bike (technical part), please help me figure it out. The fact is that not so long ago a classmate gave me a squeeze for the chain (a chain without a lock) so that I took it off, washed and greased. I did everything as required, but that's bad luck, I can't insert this stick (I forgot the name) back. I have already tried a lot of means, but in vain. Today I came up with the idea to completely squeeze out the chain link and put a lock on it, so that in the future it would be easier to remove and install. Does it make sense to do all this, or is it easier to take a new chain with a lock? I'm also thinking about putting Shimano Altus instead of Shimano Tourney (rear derailleur), is it worth it or not? Thank you.it is better of course to put a lock on the chain) I have a rear derailleur shimano altus, not bad
Thomas Angelo
Everything depends on the connecting link (on the castle). If the sportswoman is big and you put a regular link with a locking washer (similar to what is usually put on the Urals), then it will constantly cling either to the sprocket block on the rear wheel hub, or on the pedals, when switching to the middle and small sprocket. It is best to install a connecting link similar to the one that comes with the new chain, that is, what requires riveting, without a lock washer.
In the case of the unsupported version, there is no difference.
MyatKO.
It is very difficult to describe the process of riveting a zepi link. You'd better give it to some locksmith who has all the necessary tools for this.
I have Furi Okinava D, and for me this is not a vehicle, but a simulator!
Therefore, I drive on it, that I have strength, not sparing myself, nor great.
I just change the chains at the beginning of each season. For they are stupidly stretched, and the switching is no longer clear!
And, of course, new chains come with a lock that does not require repressing.
And by the way, I have all the Thorney switches.
With proper care, they work well, even under extreme loads. I drove away for three seasons.
Kirlusha wrote:
I just change the chains at the beginning of each season.
Wow. My chain "runs" for about 3 years between replacements, although this one is more a workhorse than a vehicle. How can you kill so much that you change the chain so often? Hmmm .....
Sidorovich12
Well, I wrote: "simulator" :)
Why is there a chain ... There were simpler big ones, so the frame (Al6061), in the first season, in half. With an unsuccessful jump. :)
Here is one Furik, the third season is serving.
Kirlusha
Mdaaa. I do not know how big you had there, but even if you throw a piston Chinese bike on the asphalt, the frame can break from 20 times. Well, for example, I try to drive more economically. Mine, as it were, is already 15 years old, running until now. I studied at school, bought when.
And as for the chain, I came across a brand new chain from a Soviet tourist (from my father still left from old stocks). I adapted it to my Chinese sportswear. So she walked for 6 years without a break, while the sprocket block on the rear hub changed 2 times and the pedal ones once. Now these are no longer made, and even the most expensive chains hardly live up to 2 years under active load.
In principle, I am not a particularly athlete and not a fan of unnecessary cycling. You have to drive every day simply, considering that the prices for fuels and lubricants have risen almost 2 times over the past year, and they are straining with money.
Sidorovich12
Was stern dynamic. First time: flew into a car. The wheel, the fork, and the lower tube at the steering wheel broke off. Brewed with argon.
The second time: "did not take" the concrete block. Again the lower tube, only at the pedals. Brewed, painted, sold.
Before him there were all sorts of steel "stealth". This is generally a "trash heap".
Furik, double suspension, aluminum, that keeps up cheerfully, the third season. Only chains, pads and one brake disc changed. And then the disc, burned with a fool, on a long descent.
About the chain, you are confusing something. I tried the Soviet one, and with different blocks of stars. The step is wrong. The chain slips under heavy loads.
I have a great "passion". I fly as much as I can. (Just getting high). Well, to keep yourself in shape, and not to kick your ass while driving a car. On which, by the way, you also have to ride almost every day.
Kirlusha wrote:
The chain slips under heavy loads
Well, I know about the chain pitch.
I put a block of sprockets together with a hub from a tourist, otherwise, of course, the chain would skip every couple of three revolutions, since the chain pitch was the same there with the Urals, Salyut and other similar bikes.
It's just that they are doing crap now compared to what it was before. Right now I'm driving this modification. Minimum production in 6 years. What stood before it worked much faster. The only disease in the Soviet hubs is a ratchet. There springs on breadcrumbs often fly, but the Chinese have come up with a ring instead of springs.