Replacing the ball and silent block of the front lower arm - Toyota Mark II, 2.5 L, 1989

Replacing the ball and bushing of the front lower arm.

Well, after leaving for a month on the Mark, I begin to quietly put it in order, and first of all I start up the front ball valves for replacement, one began to emit an unpleasant creak, and the anthers were tired on them.
At the same time I decided to change the silent blocks as well. the lever is all the same to remove, and they are not expensive, although everything was fine with the old ones.

Let's get started.

First, you need to hang the car on a lift (well, this is at best), you can, of course, just use a jack (don't forget about safety precautions). We remove the wheels.

Next, it should be cleaned with a metal brush and sprayed with some good liquid (I used WD-40), all the threaded connections that we have to untwist, splattered, and you can go to smoke for five minutes, let the liquid do its job - soften rust and dirt in the threads, this will help to avoid unpleasant moments in the future ...

We proceed to dismantle the lever, first of all we remove the steering tip, while knocking it down as carefully as possible without damaging its thread. It is much easier when there is a special tool for this or if we immediately change the steering tip.

After that, we unscrew the mounting bolt of the silent block, two nuts for fastening the arm extension (I don't know its name for sure), and two bolts for fastening the arm to the rack.

That's it, the lever is ready to be replaced ...

Using a press, we press out the silent block and the ball, obviously on the ball on the upper side, remove the retaining ring.

So the whole replacement kit is ready.

Silent blocks from RBI with the number T24GX81W , marked Cressida, from the number you can see that it will go to all GX81 bodies.

CTR ball joint with the number CBT-12 , I don't remember whose production anymore, someone I remember told me that the quality is not very good (but at the moment I have been on them for almost two years) I stayed and am still satisfied with them , with my not very calm ride and our not ideal roads.

Then we carefully press all these new things using suitable mandrels into our old but still very strong levers ...

Silentblock

and ball

And now our practically new lever is ready to be installed on the car.
It remains only to assemble everything in the reverse order, tighten everything securely, and you can enjoy the ride without squeaks and unnecessary knocks.

PS The silentblock bolt should be tightened completely only when the car is lowered onto the wheels , if you tighten it in the suspended state, the silentblock will be in a tense state when the car is lowered onto the wheels, plus the suspension travel for compression and the silentblock will not be easy, it will tear it quickly.

PPS This article is not a manual for the repair and operation of cars, this is just my personal experience.