Brief characteristics of engines 4 A Ge - Toyota Carina II, 1.5 L, 1988

4A - GE Modification Page
In this article, I talk about the various modifications that will be needed
to raise the power of the 4A - GE (1600cc Toyota) engine
from a low 115 hp. up to 240 hp, gradually with an increase of 10 hp. at
every stage, and maybe with a big increase!

To begin with, there are four types of engines 4A - GE -
- "Large channel" (with large valve bore) with TVIS
- "Small channel" without TVIS
- 20 valve version
- version with mech. supercharger (supercharger)

To say that writing a page like this is difficult, it is to say nothing!
The number of deviations in power for all 4A-SAME in the world is the number of
different ways of installing the same part by people, on their machines
, etc. Make an accurate calculation of how much hp you can get it if you do
this or that, this is the most difficult task. But no less, I give
this information based on my own experience, working with
numerous emails, telephone conversations, as well as
communicating with many drivers and engineers from all over the world.
I also use the data obtained from my equipment,
my assumptions about changes in power up and down, during
the replacement of camshafts, etc. were confirmed .

4A-SAME -
115 HP - 134 hp
This is the horsepower difference between the standard 4A-SAME in the world. The Air Flow Meter
(inlet air meter, hereinafter AFM) on the TVIS version produces
115 hp, typical for the USA and other countries. Air pressure sensor in
the intake of collectors (The manifold Air Pressure Sensor = MAP ) with TVIS version,
which is still more common vydet 127 hp These are most commonly
found in Japan, Australia and New Zealand. Both types of these configurations
are installed on the AE-82, AE-86 and other Corolla, and have a large intake port size
. 4A-SAME Corolla AE-92 does not have TVIS, and therefore small intake ports
, and produces 134 hp. with MAP sensor. Here's some information:
-Computers "small port" and "large port" are rarely
interchangeable, but rarely can increase or decrease the output power of the
engine.
- AFM type and MAP type computers are not interchangeable, unless
all necessary wiring is replaced.
-All engines equipped with a MAP sensor have approximately the same power
and torque, so this will not prevent you from replacing the engine (say
for a version with small passage windows) and trying to achieve more
power. But there are more effective ways to invest your money.

150 hp - 160 hp
Synchronization of the standard camshaft continues 240 degrees, from place
to place, and this is typical of the modern two-shaft engine path. A pair of
256-degree camshafts and the aforementioned tweaks will give you 140 hp.
-150 hp, this paragraph will give you about 150 hp if everything is
correct, but if you need more then of course you will need
264 degree camshafts . This is the maximum size of the camshafts that you
can use with a factory computer, since for proper operation you
will have to unravel the vacuum values ​​in the VP. collector. The version with
AFM sensor may be a bit richer, but I have no information on this.
You cannot get 160 hp. with a standard computer, and you also
have to spend a few dollars on additional
systems . I would advise you to take a programmable system than or any other
additions to a standard computer., because if you want additional
horses later, then you will not you will be limited in your capabilities, unlike
and additives that are already programmed.
When you have an additional (or other) computer, then you can
use any camshafts, with a small margin of error, so to
provide more than 160 hp, you should use shafts with 272
degrees.
Note: when using shafts with a scale of more than 260 degrees, you
it will be helpful to remove the TVIS if there is one. When TVIS is used
with smaller gears than these, it will provide a thrust cutoff (4400 rpm) at
lower rpm, this effect disappears with larger
gears!

150 h.p. -160 h.p. this is such a mark in which some
work with the will be necessary . Fortunately, there is not so much to finish, and if
your "head" is removed, then you can spend a little more time
efficiently and make extra work that will allow you to draw up to 180-190
hp from your engine .
There are 4 areas in the 4A - GE heads that need attention
- the area above the valve seats, the combustion chamber, and the
valve ports themselves and the valves & seats themselves.
- The area above the saddles is a little too parallel and needs a little
taper to create a little Venturi effect.
- The combustion chamber has numerous sharp edges that are necessary
smooth to exclude early ignition of fuel, etc.
- Inlet and outlet ports (holes) are quite normal in the standard, but
they are not much large in the head with and slightly
small in the head with . In a head small walk-through windows> it is easy to make them a little larger, but making
large walk-through windows smaller is much more difficult, so don't try -
just clean up all unnecessary small irregularities and instead make a new
hardfacing to the edge of the head.
- Valves and seats give excellent results after a good third or even
fifth corner cut. Some workshops leave windows close to the mirror and
the gaps between the windows become razor sharp - This is
wrong!

160 h.p. - 170 hp
Now let's start shooting some serious power! You can forget about setting any
emission standards your country may have. J.
You will need a camshaft of at least 288 degrees, and you can already
start thinking about changing the bottom dead center (BDC).
It also starts approaching the intake manifold limit, and this is already a
mark from which things become expensive.
All the work with the head, described in the leading section, will be included
in the total power for this pargraph, so as to improve 150
hp -160 hp. you will need to increase the compression in the engine (s
). There are two options _ grinding the block head or buying
new pistons. Standard pistons are fine for 160 hp, no
doubt about it, but after that I recommend using good custom
kits like Wisco. You will need 10.5: 1 compression, and with
RON 96 gasoline you can go
up to 11: 1 compression without worrying about knock!
Standard pins (piston pin) can be used up to 170bhp, but
then you should swap them out for the best you can get your hands on, like
ARP or a small Chevy block. (I mean, if you are going to change
them that would be a rewarding job too.
You should also be prepared to crank the engine up to 8000rpm. Or maybe 8500rpm
.

The intake manifold is a small problem, but if you are tricky enough, you
can make a double (split manifold) throttle for each in the
Weber style , which will be much cheaper (for example, all work with materials
will cost 150 Australian dollars, but if you do the same work with
buying branded spare parts it will easily result in 1200 av. dollars!) And I
did this: a cast plate about 8 mm thick. and a
thick-walled pipe with a diameter of 52 mm. ... Then I cut a flange for the
Weber base and for the cylinders on the head. Then I cut four pipes of equal length
and partially crumpled them so that they look like intake ports. And I
spent two more days grinding and sharpening so that all the parts fit, and already
then I cooked it all. Spent two hours smoothing weld seams.
Then I ran a special machine to check the throughput of the
right angle between the head and throttles.
For drosel you will pay 400 + av. dollars each. I just bought a pair of Used
Dellorto 45mm. I replaced only the insides, namely only the
throttle valves, so it turned out cheap!
It may be easier and easier to use something like a pair of 45 mm. Weber. I
highly recommend using electronic fuel injection (injector) rather than
carburetor because the injector can be adjusted more accurately and accurately.

A quick note: on my 4A-SAME (AE86 Sprinter) there are 288-
degree camshafts , not a standard computer, 10.5 comission; 1 and a slightly heavy-duty
head. It puts out 165 hp from the factory NMP. It spins up to 8500
rpm without any problems. (for now )

170 h.p. - 180hp
There is still no huge difference between large and small walk-through windows. Not
much work needs to be done to get the extra 10 hp. from the
existing engine; just put more distribution shafts. I will
recommend from 288 deg. up to 304 degrees.

180 hp - 190 hp
Definitely camshafts at 304 degrees. and you need to start paying attention to
tuning your intake manifold (equal length manifold) if you haven't already
. Also approaches the limit of the capability of a head with small apertures
.

190 h.p. - 200 hp
Rested against the maximum permissible size of the camshafts - 304 degrees. And you
need a 11: 1 compression; 200 h.p. an approximate chapel for a head with small
walk-through windows, regardless of the size of the windows, so for large windows everything is
just beginning! Another area that has almost reached the limit is in
valves. After 200 hp you will need a set of large valves.
More on this in the next paragraph.
The standard exhaust manifold also reached its limit, so that 200 hp.
this is the maximum that you can achieve by keeping as many
factory parts as possible . To get 200 hp. you will need to spin the
engine up to 9000 rpm. ... if you did everything well, then the engine
will be able to drive on the roads.

200 h.p. - 220hp
After 200hp 4A-Same is becoming an increasingly serious engine and therefore
requires more attention to detail. From this point, we start
spending more and more money for less results. But, if you still
want extra horses, you will have to spend dollars:

The reason why I "jumped" from 200hp up to 220 hp, this is what I know
not many people who have done something like this from 4A-SAME, so
I do not have much information about them. I find that after
the 180hp mark , these are real racers who do their best to get
more than 200hp, albeit a small jump. The reason I
missed the 170 hp-180 hp values -190 hp - 200 hp, this is one and the same
work completed with the head, then we change the shafts, which make the
differences between these marks. You do a little here, there with compression and so on
. There really isn't a lot of work to do to jump from 170bhp
. up to 200 hp
So we need shafts with markings of 310 degrees. and a rise of 0.360 "/ 9.1 mm.
You should also start to think about where you can get the pads under the" glasses ",
which have shims of at least 13 mm., this will be
preferable to 25 mm. washers, which sit on the very glass.
since camshafts more than 300 deg., and the rise of 8 mm valve (approximately)
, the edges of washers, which are installed over the glass will rarely come into contact
with the projection of a cam, and the putting aside that
immediately lead to the destruction glasses and, more truthfully, a piece of the
head itself in a matter of milliseconds! Sets of "cup" washers (gaskets)
can be bought both from the turbojet engine and in other sports stores, but this
will cost a lot of money!
Large seated valves are also expensive, but again I know a way to lower the
price. I found out that the valves from 7M-ZHTE (Toyota Supra) are similar to a set of large
valves for 4A-SAME from a turbojet engine. They are 2mm larger than the valves from 4A-Same and
should not be suitable if the engine is delivering less than 200 hp, because you
WILL LOSE the power you need! Another problem with these valves is that
they are 2mm. shorter than 4A-SAME, so thicker washers will be needed. With
washers that sit over the glasses E this will look ugly
, but I think it is possible with cup washers.
There are two types of crankshafts for 4A-SAME, which have a crank
according to the passport 40 mm, and "large" with a large crank 42 mm. But the "big"
crankshaft weighs 700 grams more than the "small" (~ 11 kg.
Versus ~ 11.7 kg.). and somewhere up to 200 hp. - 220 hp stronger, but in practice there are still
slight differences between the two cranks. These changes are for more
power than this ::.
The standard exhaust manifold, as already mentioned, is acceptable up to 200 hp,
now we will need to change it to an improved one. I mean they
have to fit on several criteria that put them one notch above
average -
- There must be 4 pipes of equal length, within less than 1/4 "/
6mm
- Four pipes must NOT be wrinkled (bending result nth)
- The four pipes must fit according to the ignition order, i.e.
1-3-4-2. Many simply bring the pipes to the collector in any (which
comes to mind) order, but this is less "horses" than when installing a
good exhaust.
- The collector should be approximately 60 mm in diameter. Many non-standard
collectors are equipped with pipes with a diameter of 50 mm, and this is not enough for a
good result.

220hp - 240hp
You can save a lot of time and money by purchasing a used Atlantic> engine ! But seriously, this is a big boys' zone, and again the
stakes are going up.
It is preferable to use a "small" crankshaft up to 220 hp rather than a "
large" one, because large bushings create more friction, while the
larger diameter (42 mm versus 40 mm) has better radial speed at the
same rpm. Sometimes you have to spin the engine as much as 10,000
rpm, so it's a delicate balance between strength, friction and inertia.
Of course, in order to get the most ultimate power, you need to
use a forged crankshaft, and therefore this is a rarity and a
corresponding price.
I would be happy to use standard cranks (with the aforementioned
bolts ) up to 220hp, but after that it would be better to install something like Carillo's,
Cunningham, or Crower cranks. They should be made so that their
weight is 10% less than standard in order to reduce reciprocating
mass.
Pistons from have also passed their limit, and so it is better to take high-
quality (and of course expensive) pistons for example: Mahle
Using a standard oil pump, we run the risk of grease overflow in five
areas, and the solution to this problem may be, or buying an expensive
unit from Turbojet engine, or simply adjust the pump 1GG. They are quite
cheap on "disassembly", and in principle are identical to the pump from the turbojet engine. FWIW,
Standard pumps have a tendency (tendency) to split the pinion
across the widest part of the body at high RPM and thus
crush the pump on the fly!
We need 320 degree gears with a 0.400 "/ 10.1 mm cam lift. They
will help us get a little more thrust below 6000 rpm. The
dry pallet is also a very good idea, if done correctly, the
engine can put out a little more HP than it could with a
wet sump.

240 h.p. - 300hp
If I had a bag of money and a lot of free time, then I could
get 260 hp from 4A-SAME. More is better. I would have made the stroke shorter, and
bored out the liners to get the piston in as much as possible, trying to
keep the volume around 1600 . Dahlia, I would install titanium connecting rods
, upgrade or buy gas valve springs so that the
engine spins up to 15,000 rpm, or more if possible.
Or, I would simply take the standard 4A-SAME, reduce the compression to 7.5: 1 and put the
turbine :.
Having received even more "horses" for a lower price.
Okay, now seriously, the best way to get a "sniffing" turbo engine
(4A-ZHTE) will be, just buy 4A-ZHSE, sell the "superchanger" and collectors,
then with the money received, a bearing turbine and RWD collectors from AE-86.
Buy bent pipes at some exhaust system store, make an
exhaust manifold for a turbine, and you can even try to leave a
standard computer from 4A-ZHSE or, saving a lot of time and avoiding
problems, buy a programmable improved computer.
Using my computer dino software, I calculated that with a
low enough pressure, 16 psi would give you about 300 hp. You will also need
an intercooler, which is quite common these days. I also put
more standard camshafts - 260 degrees.

300 h.p. - 400 hp (maybe more?) It
takes a little more work to get more than
300bhp , a bit like a 4A-SAME for 220bhp. (see above) . The same
forged crankshaft, non-serial connecting rods, reduced compression pistons (somewhere around
7: 1), large valves and washers for valve cups. Plus a turbine and
collectors. (I doubt that the factory collectors will be good enough
that the above will have to be done by hand. It is not as
difficult as it will take a while)
And again for the dino test. So at 20 psi, the engine produces 400 hp.
If you can make an engine capable of withstanding 30
psi turbine pressure, you can jump over the 500 hp mark. !
It is possible to do more of this, I believe, because the turbocharged
Formula 1 engines of the late 80s, with a volume of 1500 , produced
more than 1000 hp. ... I do not think that this is possible with the above
alterations based on 4A-SAME, but ::. J

4A-SAME 20-valve engine

I've never worked with a 20 valve, but by and large an engine
is an engine. The only difference is that this engine has three
intake valves, so some of the usual rules don't work. Toyota
advertises them as 162 hp. (165 hp) for the first version and 167 hp. for the second
(latest) version. FWIW, the first version has a silver valve cover and
AFM sensor, and the second has a black one and a MAP sensor.
Toyota may be lying when they say that 20 valves give out so many "
horses" - judging by the measurements that I have ever heard,
they give out 145hp. - 150 hp So I think the best way to bump up the
power of the standard 4A-SAME (16 valve version) is 115 hp. -134 hp before
150 h.p. - it's just to plug in an engine with a 20 valve version. The
only exception will be rear-wheel drive cars like the AE-86, only you will need to make a
hole in the fireproof partition (between the engine compartment and the passenger compartment) for the
distributor (interrupter-distributor) or:.

As far as I can see, there is not a lot to do, except for grinding the intake
ports and multi-angle work with the valve seats ().
Then just change the camshafts to large ones and gears to get
more return, and again all this is up to 200 hp, it will continue to change the
insides for stronger and lighter units. It turns out the same
combination for increasing power, but the main thing is that when the
engine rpm increases , you need to "cram" enough air to get a good
return. FWIW The bottom surface of a 20 valve is very similar to a 16
valve (with small intake ports), but the pistons are different so they
cannot be assembled. (When people ask me if they can just
to put the head from the 20-valve version, I don't answer definitely -
maybe Yes, because Poles and channels are suitable and No, because the "
grooves" on the pistons are different. ) The
maximum that I have met from 4A-SAME 20 cells. that's 215 hp, or close to a
good 16 cl. without 30 hp

4А-ЖЗЕ
145 HP -165 hp
The earliest 4A-ZHSE is equipped with 145 hp, and there are 3 options (in my
opinion) to get more "horses" in the "herd" - just install a
later version, which already has 165 hp, or put a larger gear wheel
crankshaft (this will allow the supercharger to rotate faster, at lower rpm,
and therefore get more air) something from HKS or
Cusco. And the third option is the same as what you would do with a conventional
engine, namely large camshafts, front windows, etc. When
equipped with a supercharger, we are limited in engine speed, for example, the
supercharger is "disliked" when it is turned over 10,000 rpm. The reason for this
the rotor blades (impellers) appear, which at high speeds begin
to melt the oil seals.
So we're limited to around 8,000 rpm (the supercharger
cranks 1.25 times in one crank, and
even more with HKS gears ). This means that all our efforts will be directed towards
getting the supercharger to push as much air as possible at
standard rpm.
Consequently, in order to get replenishment in the "herd" in the amount of 20 hp. You
will need to work on the intake manifold and the "head" can be
larger camshafts (256 degrees), which will easily give you the 20 hp you
need. Larger intercooler, improved air throughput (in
the standard is much worse) inlet and outlet will also help a lot.

165 hp - 185 hp

Again, the easiest way to go is with 165 hp. up to 185 hp - it will just
put more camshafts, and there may be a little work on grinding
(stripping) the restrictions in the intake and exhaust manifolds. At the end of this
power scale, I think the intake manifold is too narrow because
the supercharger blows into one "muzzle", which then divides it into four
channels, one channel for each cylinder. The problem is that three of these
ducts enter the head at an angle that is far from straight and therefore an acute angle
will create unwanted turbulence (FWIW, the duct for the first
cylinder fits at a funny angle!) If you take a little time and
put in enough effort to do high-quality kalector (or
it is possible to just supply a manifold of the type from the rear wheel drive AE-86),
which will easily give you an extra 20 hp.

Large camshafts at 264 deg. will make their big contribution, but as with
4A-SAME, after such a number of horses, a standard computer will have problems
with measuring the vacuum in the intake manifold. Of course, you can put a
tuning computer that uses the throttle
position more than the MAP sensor, but by taking the above you will only win
a . I insist on the use of auxiliary
(adjustable) computers as much as possible , which at least contains the following options - the
use of mixed signals from the throttle valve and the MAP sensor, the
possibility of correction with increased power, as well as changes in the signal from the
oxygen sensor.

185 h.p. +

The best 4A-ZHSE I have ever heard of was
something like 200 hp, I believe that without question the
above modifications were made on it . I think the best way to get
more output power is to install a 1ZHZE supercharger, which at
the same rpm pumps 17 percent more air than a standard one
, this also means that it must rotate slower to get the
same number (as in standard) air at the same speed. This
means that the engine will suffer a loss of power (failure) than
it would with a smaller supercharger. The failure I'm talking about is the
power that is lacking when the tachometer needle goes beyond the red
line. Then the power rises sharply, in line with the
engine speed , and the more you do to reduce this dip, the
better you get.
The trick is to set yourself the RPMs at which you want the
most out of the engine, say 7,000 RPM, and try to
get the engine to produce the maximum amount of air around that
RPM. And again, all of the aforementioned tricks are the path to
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