Placed spacers. Ball joints were replaced. Not satisfied — logbook Toyota 4Runner 2001
So, I spent the whole day with George in the service.
What they were doing?
1 - changed the upper ball joints, as it creaked on the left. Everything, gud, is a completely different matter. Ball joints have not been changed from the factory. Somehow torn off, in short. Everything is fine. They put new ones. The sound eventually disappeared. I'm glad
2 is the most interesting. They put spacers under the springs, which I wrote about below.
In total, we put what we have, the results.
The muzzle rose by 6 cm and became exactly like the back … 950 mm from the ground to the arch. Equally.
On the move, it got tougher. The muzzle does not peck now, as the springs are pressed. The CV joint angles have become less "correct".
The light now shines directly, but not on the road. It certainly looks cool. BUT! I will remove the spacers and remove at least a centimeter from it, the muzzle should be lowered a little. And the corners will get better. Even with such a lift dif. lay down on the crossbar of the frame. It rattles a little. Here it is necessary either to lower the differential, or still sharpen the spacer. I choose the second. I thought, so get to the spring, and there he will already put new springs. No, I will not torture the car. Spacers will be reduced in size. Following. I will do the weekend, as the time will be shorter. Just change the tires, all for one and do. Also the pads need to be replaced.
Here. Collective farm shit. You give the company)
There is an old photo, I measured it in the early spring. And today's photo for comparison.
Here I go, by experience. Started with spacers)
UPD.
Came back from the garage. Adjusted the light under the new muzzle. I took measurements and took pictures. Tolley's muzzle slumped a little, or yesterday they measured it incorrectly. In short, what happened can be seen in the photo. The muzzle is just below the ass. This is a little pleasing.
The nature of the rattling was never revealed. Sound only when the wheels are inverted and moving backwards.
Maybe where the disk protection is rubbing? There is no speed dependency.
zy- asked Grandfather Frost for New Year springs from Pendosia)))
Softness-valkost eternal dilemma. And unfortunately, the current is experimentally verified unfortunately. Or, according to forum friends, a test drive is begged for on certain ammo springs
I completely agree. But now I’ll change / rearrange / remove it myself, because yesterday I still went to the service for the most part to replace the ball joints, which I couldn’t replace without a press in the garage. And the spacers are there for 15-20 minutes - took off, put
But this is the lyrics. In fact, I already wrote that yes, I will change the springs. I just wanted to immediately replace both the shock absorbers and the springs, with doing it after the winter ... As if it were necessary to allocate some money for this. Because the spacers are a temporary option. And you can consider their replacements / rearrangements as sad techno-madness)
It’s not very clear about springs at all. As well as about shock absorbers. I would like to keep softness, but not get roll. And here people’s opinions differ greatly. So I sit collecting information on our various and foreign sites.
maybe you should not fuck your brain, but just ask Grandfather Frost for the New Year for new springs?))) And shock absorbers? Okay, "creative search" continues (
Friend, of course you forgive me, maybe I don’t understand what. And it’s not easier to just change the springs once and not steam the brain and hands with extra iterations of work. Especially if you don't do it yourself?
If you order springs for a moderate lift (or not moderate), manufacturers have a mass. dobinson, tafdog and others, others. Or even pick up the length and stiffness of something. Change and not bother with spacers, with one replacement, the second.
Well, as if the taste and color of the felt-tip pens are different.