Some shit to buy, make & do (17 photos) - Toyota Celica, 1.6 L, 1984

well, yes, they cost a lot)

You can buy new Hayashi Sakura, but my budget is not space, and wide rims for the desired core can be ordered)

whatever

yes ... but the pop is creepy)))) and SSR Star Shark is on the border of originality and availability)
but, unfortunately, only R14 = (

www.work-wheels.net/produ...and_index.php?Brand_id=10

whatever

yes ... but the pop is creepy)))) and SSR Star Shark is on the border of originality and availability)
but, unfortunately, only R14 = (

Work Equip 3 15e is, and you can buy new ones)

the stem does not need to be cut) it is necessary that the piston itself, which is shorter at the bottom

the stock can be cut;)

haha, you answered the wrong question a
bit , but not the point))) the main thing is not to forget about the shortened shock absorbers! after all, when you lower the car, the stock of ammortes will not have enough progress to properly amortize)

Well, our collective farm is all) I found the principle on ebee

yes ... but the pop is creepy)))) and SSR Star Shark is on the border of originality and availability)
but, unfortunately, only R14 = (

as an option watanabe for also labor railway and old school))

photos-c.ak.facebook.com/...35255042_1086182_6693.jpg
wiki.r31skylineclub.com/i...ages/b/b9/Magwatanabe.jpg
www.skylinesaustralia.com ... st-a206313-watanabe15.jpg

shl.
if I'm not mistaken in the initial di the main character had watanabe on the hachiroku ...

there is it! on Ibei you can find it as a coilover, but in general, this is not a "correct coilover", but a collective farm ...
in general, installation requires some effort)

but do not tell me how these height adjusters are called in English?)
do we have or on ebee?

there is nothing) in the USA it is cheaper) and from Japan delivery is expensive ...

It is better to look for Japs in Japan.

coil over.
You can find it both here and on ebee. depending on which car ...

yes, you can, but blowing is an even greater whore for me, and for the engine, and for the budget)))))

I do not push))))
under this head you can put a piston from GZE)))
but the base will already be in order to blow into the motor ... gyyyy

Enough to encourage me to buy your engine)))
no, I want to keep the original engine, go over it, but let it be original and 16 valve - old school is old school!
As for the giblets, they are "useless" - if you put the bottom, then the pistons still have depressions for 20 valves, which means without a 20 valve head - they are useless, if you put a 20 valve motor entirely, then this is a re-equipment of half of the machine, etc. ))) in short, a whore I don't want to fit in) 16 valves in the racing assembly produced 240 hp. from 1.6 liters - it suits me perfectly))

Opensource projects, eh ... I didn’t know ...
duck can then change all the giblets? ..
or even insert a fresh engine there?

Duc))) not so simple! in the first generation 4AGE up to AE92, the connecting rod necks on the crankshaft are 40 mm, on 20V and 4AGZE - 42 mm ... so is the finger - 18 mm before AE92 and 20 mm after)) so like this)

then it is easier and cheaper to put the connecting rods from the silver. they are thicker. black is thinner

The fact is that on the first generation 4AGE is a weak point. After 8700 they generally feel bad, as well as at 160 hp. (which I'm aiming at) they don't feel good either! If the caps fall out, then it will not please me ...
ps there is already a choke)

Why are connecting rod bolts a weak point?
If they didn’t unscrew from the factory, then they won’t be nifiga ...
Shl I sell my silvertop for spare parts if you need to write anything (unfortunately I have already sold the throttle body)
.

"Come to my dacha, I'll show you something else!"

shikaaaaaaarno)))))

by itself outboard, but I would say, behind the bumper, in front of the radiator!

Will there be an external oil cooler, under the bumper?