Complete oil change in automatic transmission (Photo report) — Toyota Corona, 1.6 liter, 1999
Hello. (= I recently changed the oil in the automatic transmission with a filter change. I changed it because it was black and smelled of burning. I recently bought a car. After the change, the vibration disappeared when the brake was pressed and the automatic transmission selector was in the "D" position. Switching between 1 and 2 gears smoothed out ( I often kicked before). And the car began to pull noticeably better. (= That's probably all the tangible changes after the replacement.
For a complete oil change in the automatic transmission, we need:
1. A garage with a pit or a flyover.
2. An assistant or a signaling device with auto start. (although in principle, you can change one)
3. Keys for 14 and 10 (it is more convenient to use heads or tubes)
4. 8 liters of transmission oil (in my case it is ENEOS ATF III) (1920r.)
5. Filter (original code 35330-12030 but I took thisTR-039 ) and automatic transmission pan gasket (comes with a filter) (330r.)
6. Funnel to fit into the automatic transmission dipstick (14r.)
7. Pliers (to open the clamp on the hose)
8. A pair of bottles (volume 1l. each) for measuring the drained liquid
9. A container into which waste and dirty gasoline can be drained
10. Some gasoline
Spare parts on the photo: TR039 , 125202We drive into the garage or onto the overpass and climb under the car. We feel for the drain plug in the automatic transmission pan (on the left in the direction of the car) and, using the 14 head, unscrew it, after placing a measuring container under the drain plug. Or you can drain all the oil into an unnecessary container, and then bottle it, thereby finding out how much oil has drained. Otherwise, you can get overfilled or underfilled with oil, like me, for example (% I had to buy another liter.
Further, while the oil is drained, you can go in two ways:
(1) FIRST WAY.
We open the hood, look for the desired hose (return) from the pictures and prepare it for removal:
(2) THE SECOND WAY.
I used it because I didn't know exactly which hose to remove.
Without getting out from under the car and armed with a head for 10, we unscrew and remove the bottom protection.
Then we unscrew the automatic transmission pan.
Removed transmission pan.
Remove the filter with a 10 head.
My pan and magnets in gasoline. We install them in place in the pallet. In case of replacement without a filter, wash it in gasoline and dry it. But I don’t see the point of saving 100 rubles (because a new gasket without a filter costs 220 rubles), it doesn’t matter how much my old filter is, and all the dirt will not come out of it.
We install the filter, pan gasket and automatic transmission pan in their places.
We twist the cork in the pan. Then, using a funnel through the automatic transmission dipstick, fill in exactly as much fresh oil as the old one has drained.
We remove the return hose through which we will drain the remaining old oil.
More on the photo.
That's all guys (%
Good luck everyone! (=
Well done!
The right approach! I also completely changed the oil and filter on Karina!
The effect was amazing.
The only thing is that Tipe T-IV must be poured into these boxes, at least for me.
And so the report is good, I did the same on the last car, only without draining through the hose. On this one, I did it without removing the pan, so I’m thinking of doing the same procedure in the summer.
And in your last photo, the wrong hose is pulled off like?
By the way, a similar report, as I said Type T-IV,
droma is poured into these boxes forums.drom.ru/toyota-cal…-avensis/t1151351207.html
Something I just saw that my hose is not the one in the last photo. Although I drained 100% from it, but I’m sorry about the oil, I need to pour Typ T-IV, only I found out about it after replacing it with the third dexron ...) =
yes, it doesn’t matter, throw both hoses into the bottle, if you don’t know, you’ll find out by typing) but in general, look at the tube that goes into the box
The hose, by the way, you have the correct one is marked on the last photo, this is the return line, on the other pictures it is wrong. I changed it myself today, threw off the one closest to the engine support, and even if you look from above, you can see that this is a return line.
Tell me in which canister to take oil is there in an iron can - a white can, black and gray markings are the same in which one to buy?
they say after a complete replacement of the automatic transmission, the machine can fly?
Hey! how long ago did you change the oil? How do you like this oil, is it normal? Say please!
In general, I watched your post for three days about how to change the oil and thought to fuck ... what a hemorrhoid. But today I bought ENEOS in the same bank, a new filter for only 850 re, although it was possible to leave that one, but it was a Chinese and a carb cleaning bottle to degrease everything and hermetos. I came to the garage and: I unscrewed it, drained it, unscrewed it again and again, changed everything, screwed the pan onto the German sealant. Filled in and repeated everything exactly. However, let me tell you (((B** everything is simple)))
did you check the level? How does the box behave? I'm also going to change. only with a washing machine on the stand
with an oil change in the box, it’s clear, but what kind of oil is poured into the main gear? I want to change, I don’t know what to pour?
something is not clear, then you indicate the drain hose closer to the nozzle, then vice versa, and so all the photos are either one drain or the other! which one exactly?
Tell me, but on Gaia 2wd dvig. 3s-fe box e247a is this method suitable? And yet, when the pump flows from the return, at that time it pumps the missing part of the liquid into the hydraulic coupling from the sump, that is, it is necessary to drain 4 liters from the return and add 4 to the sump?
that's exactly as it is described, when starting up, the oil from the hydraulic transmission comes out for this and remove the hose from the radiator, and as you say 30% is just unscrew the drain nut from the box and only half will flow out, and to drain everything, you need to pull the hose from the radiator and start and pouring out then almost 8 liters of oil (on this engine)!
I also think to change the oil in the automatic transmission, but I don’t know how. Many argue that only 35-45% of the oil is changed in this way. This is due to the fact that a large amount of oil remains in the torque converter and numerous automatic transmission channels.
There is a way to change through the apparatus. This operation is performed in three stages:
1. flushing the automatic transmission system with a special liquid,
2. replacing the old oil with a new one,
3. replacing the filter element and pan gasket.
In general, someone tell me about this.
Good afternoon. Tell me, will such an oil change work on my machine, it seems, a140? I just couldn't find a detailed report on my car like yours. Yes, and of those that the people found there, they simply change the drain bolt, then unscrew the pan, replace the filter and pour everything back in. and no one drains anything from the torque converter. If you want to change it once, then change the entire oil. Is it possible to do the same as on your crown on my Karina?
I also didn’t understand where the return line is.))) Is the location the same on a 2-liter engine? Maybe someone has a diagram of the movement of oil in the automatic transmission.
IN SHORT, THE CORRECT HOSE IS THE 2nd FROM THE RADIATOR PIPE, IT IS CORRECT ON THE LAST PICTURE! and so there is no sense from him!
The volume of the poured liquid is 5.6 liters. I bought 2 containers of oil, 4 liters each. One left by itself, the second used about 1/3, so I almost made a FULL replacement! I've been running for almost a year now and it's fine. Automatic transmission plows.
A complete replacement is when you drain not only the oil from the box, but also from its differential. Almost another liter is drained from the differential. I also blew the radiator tubes with a compressor - so a decent amount of oil flowed out of the automatic transmission. As a result, the new oil entered my empty automatic transmission as if according to my passport. This is what it's called!
The oil level must first be checked for neutral.
switch gears with a stop on each for 30 seconds.
then it will be necessary to add more oil to the box, it will still go away.
quwteywi
using this method it is really possible to get automatic transmission airing
When pumping in the same way (he pumped one), he missed the level of the drained oil and the automatic transmission pump grabbed air and the oil began to foam! What should I do now? Let stand or pump over again? At the same time, there was a slight push when switching from P mode to R mode, and from N mode to R mode. In general, when turning on the reverse speed! It was yesterday, today I think I need to check, I left the garage, I feel the automatic transmission is not so pulling. In short, I barely drove back)
quwteywi
using this method it is really possible to get automatic transmission airing
airing the box is what everyone is talking about as well as airing the gur, but it can't be!
because the deer did, I have been working with the stand for 2 years, no problems ... first you remove the oil from the box, then change the filter, then you run the whole box on a new filter ... the stand simplifies all the work that is described here by 1000 times) that's all = )
Great report! Changed the same and did not listen to airiness, all fire. Agree! only coffee in the throat rises. depending on how much oil they pass at the stand = (enough for a couple of replacements at home. And in general, they don’t always remove the pan and how can you push oil through a dirty filter?) they did it to a friend, as a result, the heat exchanger scored =(
quwteywi
using this method it is really possible to get automatic transmission airing
You write a hat, about friction, etc. on this method, even the box doesn’t have time to heat up ... but at the expense of a dry box, it doesn’t work dry because the oil film lasts a day, and you don’t give the box a load, what kind of airing, what are you talking about? the kid did everything right, the difference in replacing it with special equipment with this method is only in the 1st, it’s more hemorrhoids, otherwise everything is done normally ... well, or you can just constantly add oil and watch until the tube goes clean on a running engine ... well, but just do it better to go to the norm station where there is a stand and without unnecessary haemorrhoids while drinking a cup of coffee to watch the work of professionals :D
You that atf begins to foam if air enters the system. This applies to both automatic transmission and power steering.
quwteywi
using this method it is really possible to get automatic transmission airing
This is also the first time I hear about automatic transmission airing.
Who said anything about "forgotten"? I have both underfilling and overflowing going from a place. And anyway, what kind of necroposting?)
cross11
Ahahahahahaa)) for the first time in 4 years I hear about "automatic transmission airing": DD and how does it manifest itself?)))
very much can! manifested very clearly — the car does not move! It happens due to the large accumulation of air in the automatic transmission, and this, in turn, is due to the fact that they forgot to pour the liquid during the change!
I will repeat the question. Have you ever had one? Where did you get it if it wasn't?
Let it be known to you that ATF begins to foam if air enters the system. The foamed liquid can no longer remove heat from all automatic transmission components, thereby reducing its resource. The automatic transmission channels to the valve body are mass. Here's a diagram to think about. kiario4.ru/attachments/49…_akpp__kia_rio_2012_1.jpg
And what about the aposite engine and automatic transmission?
Have you ever had one? Where did you get it if it wasn't? Give some justification to your words) And why has there never been an air lock in boxer engines? And in their boxes?
Ahahahahahaa)) for the first time in 4 years I hear about "automatic transmission airing": DD and how does it manifest itself?)))
Bought Kaldino changed the engine 2c. Now the automatic transmission is dead. Removed from the corolla. Drained the oil. Donated the same amount. The box was distinguished by a bracket and a connector on the switch where the cable is attached. Installed from an old box. The car won't start. The starter does not turn. It's like it's at speed. What advice? Help!
The issue price is 3000, every 60,000 is a penny ... contact for advice) well, as for oil, any dextron 3 will go there in years, you can even dextron 2, for any company, well, or if you are already afraid of going to the region =) then fill in Zika has MULTI ATF, Castrol has it, everything will work fine, with the correct replacement, you roll back 60,000 and change it to a new one ...
Excellent photo essay! How did you check the fluid level in the automatic transmission after replacing? With the engine running or not running?
When pumping in the same way (he pumped one), he missed the level of the drained oil and the automatic transmission pump grabbed air and the oil began to foam! What should I do now? Let stand or pump over again? At the same time, there was a slight push when switching from P mode to R mode, and from N mode to R mode. In general, when turning on the reverse speed! It was yesterday, today I think I need to check, I left the garage, I feel the automatic transmission is not so pulling. In short, I barely drove back)
But what about when replacing the automatic transmission, I don’t know how much machsla was drained from there)
please answer the question.
The guys and I looked through your guide. and we were interested in such a moment.
when we remove the return line and drain the oil from the bagel after replacing the filter and gasket, we won’t get such a situation that the filter will again become clogged with old oil?
and in theory it will require a secondary replacement of the filter, i.e. removing the sump, draining the oil and re-filling the next new oil.
and it is in such a situation that the replacement can be considered complete, when the oil in the bagel and in the automatic transmission is fresh and the filter is clean.
what do you say?
Hello. And if you put a pan on the sealant, after what time should you fill in the oil and start it?
The difference between parking and neutral is in wheel locks, spend it in Parking)) whatever you ride, and if you have an Avensis on Toyota, do it better in the cold, because how do you measure the oil temperature?))) you don't have a scanner, I think!))
A useful report, tell me, after changing the atf, to measure the level to hot, at what position of the selector P or N? Thank you in advance.
Good job, but the filter can be washed by disassembling, I have a replacement for Calde in the bortovik. A pit or overpass is not important)) and a gasket with an analog filter is rubber and of bad quality, it was burned a couple of times, now I only order for sealant or the original cork one. On Kaldino dear cost, she was still dear.
You just can't see how much is left in the box! Therefore, when topping up, you will have to wait every half liter until it drains and check the level with a dipstick.
Why measure how much oil has drained? There must be some kind of figure in the manual or somewhere in the net
All mature. I'm going to buy oil now. I'll change tomorrow. Thank you for enlightening, otherwise there is no one to ask here.
thanks for such a detailed report, it was only thanks to this report that I matured for an independent fluid change, even printed it out :) in general, everything went smoothly, I managed somewhere in 3.5-4 hours, one magnet was broken on the pallet, the magnets were heavily covered with dust , small chips are slightly noticeable in the filter, I washed everything, cleaned it, replaced the filter. there was a problem removing the hose from the side of the box - even bent the tube and did not remove the hose, removed it from the side of the radiator (it was removed easily by hand), put a suitable hose on the fitting and poured the liquid into the bottle through it. I measured the liquid with a 0.5 l measuring cup :) it is better to have two cups for clean and dirty liquids.
we can but it seemed the car was sensitive to the gas pedal, went straight faster :) switch became softer.
liquid G-Box ATF 8l - 1360 rubles, a filter substitute with a pan gasket included - 780 rubles.
Thank you, good manual, now I understand at least how it happens.
True, in vain what you wrote in the picture. It will be worse to google in the search (
Well done for being so detailed! I'm about to change my oil for the first time! now I've seen it! good luck.
Today I changed the oil in the box for the first time. Very accessible. The author is a good person. No cap, no mount. GOOD LUCK!
Does the torque converter also change oil when drained through the return hose from the radiator? Or should it be drained separately?
Bought Kaldina, changed the engine 2C with Karina e. And the engine buzzing and changed without problems. Now the automatic transmission is dead. Took it off the corolla. It differed from mine in a bracket and a plug on the stray to which the cable is attached. Does not start. It's like it's at speed. Need advice! Help! Maybe in a nickname.
And without setting rules? it says here that zamena-masla-spot.ru/zamena-masla-v-akpp.html remains in the hydroloc
Hi)) I’m interested in whether the filter is normal) is everything normal with the proclados?
But just to the station to the specialists is weak? Or is it just a pity for denyuzhka? By the way, zhizhka is not the best!
Beein, I bought a TR039 filter, but it didn’t fit, I have a box A145 = (money down the drain
All wonderfully done! These October guys who write what you need to the specialists, f the firebox.
Did the same for Renault. Filled with oil began to drive the oil from the heat exchanger and clean oil immediately flowed. I did the whole procedure as indicated by the author. The work of the box remained at the same level. But I was haunted by the fact that the oil flowed clean almost immediately. And I found the only explanation for this. Clean oil can flow almost immediately only if the cooler in the lubrication system is after the oil pump, and then goes further into the torque converter. Would like to know if this is the case. Maybe there are minds. After all, if this is so, then this whole procedure for transferring oil is washed only by the channel from the pump to the heat exchanger and the heat exchanger itself.
