Power has changed ... in my trunk) - Toyota Corolla, 1.5 liter, 2003
Somehow, not really bothering to search, I turned up a cabinet sub ALPINE SBE 1243BR, of course, at a tasty price, otherwise I would not have bought it)))
Here are the characteristics:
Power:
Peak power 800 W
Long-term power RMS 250 W
Specifications:
Voice coil impedance 4 ohm
Construction:
Chassis design Bass reflex Speaker
size 12"
General:
Overall dimensions 390 x 390 x 410 mm
Here is a link to it:
magnitola.ru/Alpine-SBE-1243BR-p-9195.html?ad=1
The sound is better than my previous Kiks, but it doesn’t cause a special storm of emotions, but wins back his money.
True, now at the "working" volume, the radiator grille rattles ...
well, it’s unlikely that you can get away from two, but the escues are all on the same
To be honest, ah ... eno! The veins are real, not hairs but veins! the insulation is also good, but it needs to be corrugated, the cross section is large, God forbid that!) I compared it with many wires! AT KG real domestic copper!)
roman624
Zdarova gave heels! Now you need a monoblock for it! Does he play from channel 4? All in all, a good purchase! For high-quality soft bass, exactly what you need!)
Rom, tell me how strong KG35 is - for me now is an urgent question!
Hey! Thank you for appreciating the purchase)
My VCL differs from many in that - in fact, it has two different two-channels in its case, with separate power supply (2 * 75 and 2 * 145). It gives out honest 400W in the bridge on the rear channels, for this the sub is enough even at 2/3 of the maximum gain)
Zdarova gave heels! Now you need a monoblock for it! Does he play from channel 4? All in all, a good purchase! For high-quality soft bass, exactly what you need!)
Even I’ve been spinning around my city - everywhere they either only sell in bulk, or to legal entities through bank transfer ...: (
Where did you buy yourself?
roman624
Take it without even thinking, but it’s better to get 50 at once! Not much more expensive, but with a margin, suddenly you want a stronger amplifier later! Yes, and look, 35mm2 most likely will not go under the amplifier clamp, so you need to take Distribution! And from him already let 25 or 16! Because I'm barely 35! The price for KG-50 is 261 rubles! I have only +! Minus the body! But I will pull!
Akum did not change?
Take it without even thinking, but it’s better to get 50 at once! Not much more expensive, but with a margin, suddenly you want a stronger amplifier later! Yes, and look, 35mm2 most likely will not go under the amplifier clamp, so you need to take Distribution! And from him already let 25 or 16! Because I'm barely 35! The price for KG-50 is 261 rubles! I have only +! Minus the body! But I will pull!
I didn’t think that it would be so difficult ... :(
maybe I’m looking in the wrong place yet)
I got it for free! Well, I don’t know how you have us boldly in all stores, electrical goods!
No, everything will be fine. I don't drive much either, I rarely drive long distances. Take 60-ku and everything will have time to charge.
Yes, I’m aware, but here’s the thing: if you drive a hundred kilometers every day, the generator will be able to easily replenish the spent energy reserve from the battery, and if I drive like I drive to and from work, a maximum of 40 km per day and half of them are in traffic jams, and this is essentially X.X., when the generator is running at a minimum, then the battery has the opportunity to receive a "chronic undercharge"
Yes, the point here is not what kind of battery, but whether you will really let it charge. If you sit down and turn on the Mouzon constantly at a high volume, then the 55 will take a long time to charge. I can say for sure that your gene will pull 60-62A / h Akum, and there is no point in putting more.
So far, I have also stopped at this decision) Moreover, our winters are not cold (there has never been a minus or snow yet). I will change the strength during the holidays, it will be clear who is the weak link there)
Conder is now standing.
And what kind of battery will be the norm for the generator? Are there any selection tables? To prevent battery undercharging
But now you have a conder too? If yes, then leave the conduit and just change the wiring. And Akb will still serve.
Wow. Then it might be worth replacing the battery. Although, here already see how the effect will be. If it starts to bend or blink its headlights to the beat of the music, then take 60-62 (as far as I remember, good batteries are Medalist and Beast)
Yes, it's easier with an upgrade!
and according to Akum - I have a factory one at 35 A / H, until the infection wants to die ...
NovsN
What can you say about Akum?
I’ll make a reservation right away that I don’t want to put the second one, I won’t pull Optima yet ...
80 A generator
But the generator is also my headache. It stands at 80A itself and you can’t do anything without a “collective farmâ€. And the "collective farm" will also fly into a good amount ... here I envy those who own VAZ products ...
You do not have such a huge consumption to change Akum. Ride with the stock for now - it will be enough for you if it is serviceable. If there is an opportunity to save up for Optima (which the infection has jumped in price by almost 2 kilorubles in December ...)
What can you say about Akum?
I’ll make a reservation right away that I don’t want to put the second one, I won’t pull Optima yet ...
80 A generator
Then the condenser in the furnace is possible. In general, a capacitor is a cool thing, you can pick out a voltmeter from there, you can give it as a gift and say with a breath that it will increase power by 10hp. and the power of the amplifier by 20%, and you can also effectively blow it up and shoot it on video (if you put a person on a piece of wood and blow up a conder under it, a person should fly up: D)
And here it already depends on what kind of music you listen to. If blacks, especially lower ones, then definitely throw it out, if a tuber with a leading frequency above 45 Hz, then you can leave it.
Actually, there are 2 options here: 1) Leave and see if the battery will die (it’s important to check it in winter) 2) Make an analogue of the distributor out of the conduit (the plus is that there will be a voltmeter function and there will be no fuses). If you are wondering how to do this, everything is simple: for the capacitor to work as a capacitor, and the plus and minus from the amp is planted on the terminals of the capacitor, respectively, the wire will go to the body only from the capacitor. And if you use it as a distributor, then the plus goes to the Conder, from the Conder to the amplifier, the minus from the Conder goes to the body and the minus from the amplifier goes to the body at the same point.
Thanks for the advice) Conder, as I understand it, it’s better to give someone a gift)?
I put such a sub in Nexia. It justifies its money, but the appetite comes with eating, and after about six months of listening to the subwoofer, I made a new box with a lower setting. This Alp is good for tubers.
About CG! If the cable does not fit into the amp, there is no need to block any distributors: 1) at the most inopportune moment, the pres can burn out in them (it was like this at our Night show - the Niva, assembled on SQ components, burned out 3 pres in the distributor in an hour of play, despite the fact that the pre-selected correctly, based on the thickness of the wires) 2) Any transitional connector is a loss of voltage, and hence power.
Therefore, if the KG does not fit into the amp, it simply simply bites off the required number of wires to the state of entering the amp (here there will be no losses, because the decrease occurs at a distance of no more than 2 cm to the consumer).
I heard that the Yaps don't like high A/h batteries. Because Japan is full of cars with batteries the size of scooter batteries. The point is in starters that "do not like" high current, the brushes are prone to burning. So for car audio, you need to look for a compromise, so as not to the detriment of the car.