What is UTT and what it is eaten with - Toyota Mark II, 2.0 liter, 1991
Actually, Toyota's Morning Trouble. But first things first… I’ve always started the engine from a remote start, so that I can sit in a heated cabin like a sybarite — well, or in a cooled and air-conditioned one, if it was a sultry summer. And just now, a couple of weeks ago, I wanted to check how quickly the oil pressure light goes out after a cold start. Yeah, right now… Even though the day before, at minus 15, I wound up with a half-kick remote control, but at zero degrees, my pepelats drew me an Indian dwelling “figs for youâ€, namely, it didn’t start from the key. With my crooked hands in an attempt to start, I only managed to fill the candles. With the help of telephone consultations, comrade Al.exe conducted a series of dances with a tambourine and changed the candles for new ones. Uselessly. He began to play differently with the gas pedal - it helped, he pissed off, started up. But within the next week, Mark started up again from the remote! Well, it works and works, what else is needed, I'm glad.
But. But. For several days now, since the morning, I had to forget about launching from the key fob. For this is a wasteful thing, like a trip with an iron to an armored train. Although the frost is only minus 10 with a breeze, it would seem, but come on - after a night of parking, only hand-to-hand, with a recessed gas pedal, and after 5-8 series of oiling with a starter, the flashes still lead to launch with grief in half. At the same time, after starting, the engine immediately goes to warm-up speed and evenly rumbles, as if nothing had happened.
There he is, UTT ... Yeah.
What was done in order of priority for a couple of days:
— Replacing the fuel filter (just like that, to clear my conscience, 5 years in Sakhalin after all, although after replacing I didn’t feel any difference at all);
- self-diagnosis (for several masters, it showed the absence of errors and the serviceability of all sensors);
— Compression check (slightly higher than normal, but most importantly, not lower);
- checking armored wires (in the upper limit of the norm);
— Cleaning nozzles (a wild amount of rust was). By the way, there are no cold start injectors in my version of 1G-FE, it turns out;
- Ignition check (10 degrees, normal);
— Throttle cleaning;
— Check candles, air filter;
— Replacement of the mesh in the gas tank (there's just a horror that happened).
The result — the car went noticeably more cheerful, a rare spontaneous idling disappeared, so the money was well spent, in fact, it pleases and reassures. However, this morning again oiled manually with the gas pedal pressed! Oil painting is the same. But he started, already much easier than yesterday - although the frost was twice as weak.
Gasoline - 92nd with Rosneft. I'll try for the sake of sporting interest to fill in on the Diesel Trade.
According to reviews on the Internet, some were helped by the replacement of armored wires, especially if the relatives are 20 years old. The current resistance is at the upper limit, so I bought a new Seiwa for 1980, I'll do it soon.
What's next? Stuck valves? The Internet broadcasts that on 1G this is very likely, so the version is quite working. The workman's uncle, who ate a dog on the old 1G, echoes the same thing.
From reading the forums, a light mess is brewed in the head ...
PS The option "sell the fuck" is swept aside immediately :)
Mileage: 153�800 km
Coils like to play weird when cold…
And then, as soon as it starts up, it works fine all day…
Red&Black
I would highly advise you to carefully look at the ignition coil, or rather, at the slightest opportunity, test a new one ... :)
By all the signs described, it is very similar to it ...
The spark is great, by the way.
I would highly advise you to carefully look at the ignition coil, or rather, at the slightest opportunity, test a new one ... :)
By all the signs described, it is very similar to it ...
Igorich
Sakura, if memory serves. They are in our Palestinians, mostly sold by this company, no matter what store you go to.
the most shitty after the wiki Korean filter, either the original or the macro
Nitto is a manufacturer of oil filters, my lie was.
I took it from Hottabych, yeah.
Igorich
Sakura, if memory serves. They are in our Palestinians, mostly sold by this company, no matter what store you go to.
I don’t take sakura. there is a sad experience when oil was squeezed out on a truck. go to the signus and find out the original is there. I took mine for 500 r, against 300 r for Korean. find out in the store ;)
I experimented with oils. In winter, 5W would be nice - synthetics, but I don’t want to clean the old motor too well, 10W will be enough. And with the second digit - I use 40, because 30 is too liquid for hot, as much as the light blinks at low speeds. So half a synth. 10W40 is my choice.
I saw the Wix filter in the report of the comrade Al.exe, I’ll ask around ...
In general, our fathers ate for years on these Toyotas with blinking and burning paws ...)
I have been using only original filters for a long time ...
The most funny thing is that they are usually even cheaper than any "copies" ... :)
In general, the problem with the oil lamp is simple - for a long parking lot, the oil drains a little from the channels into the sump, and when you start it, it takes some time for it to reach the sensor ... This is the time the light is on for you ...
For peace of mind, you must either prevent oil from draining (the original oil filter often helps), or try oil with a different viscosity ...
Sakura, if memory serves. They are in our Palestinians, mostly sold by this company, no matter what store you go to.
Another problem is 1G-FE, this oiler) Having read the Internet, I checked it - it burns for a second or two after the morning start. scored)
according to UTT, I’m unlikely to tell you anything, I’m interested in what is all the same with a light bulb after launch? :-)
yeah. guys from work advised me to pour 92 there, but 95 even seems not very good there. that summer, 95 was poured on rosneft, since the discount there was not bad :)
as an option, there may be fuel. last winter, Benz was poured into Rosneft, the second time it started, refueled on a denikom, it curled the first time, though it took a second ...
To be honest, I don't know. IMHO, if the fuel pump allows you to drive normally, then at startup it should not create problems.
tnet
"Sell the fuck" =)
Seriously, this is nonsense. Rosneft often pours nyaku, he hit it a month ago. By the way, it is even likely that someone has already given them a tambourine, and you can refuel again with them - it will start up normally.
It is definitely worth changing the wires, you will immediately notice the difference, they do not live for 20 years.
Could the fuel pump cause a bad start? Or does he have two options - working or dead?
tnet
"Sell the fuck" =)
Seriously, this is nonsense. Rosneft often pours nyaku, he hit it a month ago. By the way, it is even likely that someone has already given them a tambourine, and you can refuel again with them - it will start up normally.
It is definitely worth changing the wires, you will immediately notice the difference, they do not live for 20 years.
Changed the wires, it's better, thanks. True, starting at -15 is still with the key and playing with the gas pedal.
"Sell the fuck" =)
Seriously, this is nonsense. Rosneft often pours nyaku, he hit it a month ago. By the way, it is even likely that someone has already given them a tambourine, and you can refuel again with them - it will start up normally.
It is definitely worth changing the wires, you will immediately notice the difference, they do not live for 20 years.
espace
You know, with the onset of these frosts, it also stopped starting from the remote control (with a long downtime). And today was day -4 when I went to the parking lot. Didn't start! Although in December, when there were frosts at night and under -15 in the morning, it started up from the remote control without any problems. I can't understand anything either. In more frosty weather, it started, but there was a smaller downtime, and in almost heat it does not start. Apparently, after all, there is a large gap, and somewhere there it freezes thoroughly, otherwise what else could it be.
I myself go and break my head these days. And with the key on the first almost attempt, sometimes it can stall. I suspect that if you put a longer starter scroll time on the signaling, then maybe it will start from the key fob in cold weather. I'll probably visit my signalman tomorrow. Let him set up. And it's not very pleasant to sit in a cold car.
as an option, maybe the fuel leaves quietly through the non-return valve ... the car is not new ... who knows where it is there, there are no problems with this yet;) you need to lay a fur pillow on the seat, you look and it will not be so cold to sit in the car;)
Yes, I have no pedal, but only a longer oiling of the key, and on the first try. So let's take action. And I want you to find the reason.
There was an idea to increase the duration of the starter scrolling by auto-starting the signaling, yeah. But if in my case the car starts only when the gas pedal is pressed, then there will be no sense from this. But it can help you)
You know, with the onset of these frosts, it also stopped starting from the remote control (with a long downtime). And today was day -4 when I went to the parking lot. Didn't start! Although in December, when there were frosts at night and under -15 in the morning, it started up from the remote control without any problems. I can't understand anything either. In more frosty weather, it started, but there was a smaller downtime, and in almost heat it does not start. Apparently, after all, there is a large gap, and somewhere there it freezes thoroughly, otherwise what else could it be.
I myself go and break my head these days. And with the key on the first almost attempt, sometimes it can stall. I suspect that if you put a longer starter scroll time on the signaling, then maybe it will start from the key fob in cold weather. I'll probably visit my signalman tomorrow. Let him set up. And it's not very pleasant to sit in a cold car.
The joy of owning a twenty-year-old car that hasn’t really been looked after is an enchanting feeling)
That's an infection, for seven hours during the day he stood and wound up from the remote control.
And after six o'clock at night - not in any) And I want to get into a warm car in the morning, in the morning!) Yes, and it was high time to carry out all these activities, which with our gasoline are not really repairs, but scheduled maintenance, I think) replied privately)
here you are confused, however)) I also start up, and all the time it starts up almost like this in winter, so don’t rack your brains. but I really go to 98. if I fill in 92, then it starts up without any problems from the signaling.
more interesting is the question where we do the following things:
— Compression check (slightly higher than normal, but most importantly, not lower);
- checking armored wires (in the upper limit of the norm);
— Cleaning nozzles
— ignition check (10 degrees, normal);
you can in a personal)
According to all the electricians I've contacted, the scanners in the twenty-year-old 1G-FE have nothing to do at all. And this sensei took out the old equipment and began to perform not individual operations according to my instructions, but became interested in solving this nonsense as a whole, starting from simple to complex. It was not “Oh, the car is old, I won’t do this, it’s easier for me to process three seven-year-old Corollas than to fuck with youâ€, but “Hmm ... Well, nothing ... It's crappy, but we will finish this problem ... ". So I trust him and I think that he checked everything possible and necessary. We'll see)
Yes, it doesn't seem to be cold outside. but the Delica also starts up not a fountain for me either. starts up and sausages. although last year at -17 from the first poke. either the humidity is high or vice versa.
Does your throttle position sensor work? there is no campaign, and as far as I remember, the scanner does not detect them, at least I had a crown for a long time, and it also started only with gas to the floor, but the first time. the electrician said that the scanners do not show this sensor. although that was 10 years ago. maybe something has changed
thanks. how much do they take? I was there 10 minutes ago near these 555. Damn, I would have come here earlier :) ) )
vitekV
Also, where did you clean the injectors? do they make diesel? spray tested?
Car service Master on Purkaeva (from the gate at the store 555 immediately to the right). The nozzles are cleaned with ultrasound, and they check for diesel and spray.
vitekV
Have you checked the valves?
Checked valves. One inlet was clamped, and that is not criminal. Fixed. Today at -15 it started up again only with the key and after playing with the gas pedal. Although after all that has been done, it has become much better, yes.
No, the valve cover has not been removed. It's expensive, 24 valves at 500 rubles each ...
I agree completely, it's stupid to blame gasoline alone. That's why I started this whole epic, starting from simple to complex.
Well, many start up normally. you don't have a new car. so not only the fuel is to blame
Already a few people, having refueled before the new year at Rosneft 92nd, had tripling and a shitty start.
Today, it wound up much easier and more confidently, although manually, and not from the remote control.
I filled the tank to the eyeballs at the Diesel Trade. I arrived first and disgraced myself - after yesterday's wash, I forgot to wipe it dry and process the gas tank cap. Frozen. I had to return to the sink, where, according to old memory, they doused it with warm water and dried it. Conclusion for yourself - nuegonafig wash the car in a good minus Celsius)
I do not argue, good candles, designed for a long resource, excellent performance ... But will they be of any use to my outrageously simple motor? ) After all, you can feed a peasant with oysters, but cabbage soup and porridge are our food! ) If I'm wrong, I'm ready to listen to counter arguments and buy if you convince)
Well, after all, everything is more expensive than a hundred rubles apiece? ) I got a set of these in reserve and Vasya doesn’t itch, they lie in the glove compartment and don’t ask to eat, you can change it without problems at any time, everything is easily accessible. No, with our gasoline, platinum candles in vegetable one - I don’t understand)
Candles Denso for a hundred rubles apiece, reasonable and enough) Or NGK for 190 rubles / piece. screw in? ) Or take a smaller incandescent number for the winter? I will look for answers to all these questions after inspecting and adjusting the valves.