1 day of work with the machine)
Tonight will lay out a video summary done by this machine)
From 10 am to 19:30 were doing their masterpieces)
Talk about how I worked and what I have to do tomorrow)
Please leave your advice and criticism! It is very important for me, thanks to You I acquire new skills and always listen to each of You! Thank you so much for your support!
ShishkovaElena
And you can throw a photo or a link to a YouTube video where you can see it?
market.yandex.ru/search.x...0%BA%D0%B2%D0%B0&clid=767
ShishkovaElena
I have this in the garage lies)))) to ordinary sand filled? And why after the rust stops to climb?
good thing the main face and hands to close, and that much has
Sandblasting certainly a good thing, but we should not forget about the huge kolichestvo air which consumes even the cheapest machine in the garage that is clearly not going to do because you will trash the whole garage, her judging by the video winter on the street and in the yard is not an option, let the girl the old fashioned grinder.
normal wash is not suitable, I bought quartz it is more strong.
knocks the rust off and blows pressure Vozduha all the dust from rust.the result is a dry degrease the surface.and can be patched, and primed.
I have this in the garage lies)))) to ordinary sand filled? And why after the rust stops to climb?
ShishkovaElena
And you can throw a photo or a link to a YouTube video where you can see it?
And you can throw a photo or a link to a YouTube video where you can see it?
turned out well, but in my experience, also we clean the mushrooms grinder and plastered Converter, but not long enough.
then again, the blonde climbed, bought a cheap gun for sandblasting 650 rubles paid for it, and now the fight against mushrooms, goes with a Bang one, just blew out the sand and forgotten.
ShishkovaElena
It is not in the number of subscribers and value their advice😄👌🏼
All right, about rust and its future manifestations. I'd add another plus to the side sandblasting — grinding wheel metal salisylate and as it forms a canopy over the result of scattering ( in very small sizes of course), the inverter may not like this sandwich, rust remains and then successfully after a while starts to come back. So onli sandblasting or cutting of corrosion
In solidarity)
Oh, by the way, try again to remove bugs or nozzle.
It is mounted on the drill, from the pros — not too metal, not living metal spoils, but only eats the rust. And if it turns out that it is to clean out the bug, you can not Peschici, then layer a healthy gland is still decent. Of the disadvantages the price tag, at about 11-12.e, and wears out pretty quickly. But his grandmother works out with a vengeance)
I think it is possible for You, we are not at the Banquet high society)
Honestly, I don't know how to work the soil with zinc, to such Grand, skeptical)
Epoxy primer layer, which prevents access to the metal to moisture and air, i.e., highly dense insulator, that's the whole point, if your soil zinc has this property, it is unable to block them.But as far as I know, on these soils it is impossible to lay down the putty and the paint, must close it first acrylic.And all this time, the cost of solvent, etc. and unknown th happens. So it is better to buy epoksidny) Success)
Zy About attention direct flattered, I must see, and unsubscribe)
Thank You very much! Tomorrow I will try to work sandblasting epoxy primer I kind of ended, so the video will be removed from the garage and see) if you run out, can zinc treat? Or it is of little effect? I will try to photograph the process to show all the mistakes and go ask questions, I would be very grateful for Your attention. For me rust is a really sore subject)))
I am not a repair professional, all my advice is purely from my own experience.I have set a goal to learn how to efficiently output the rust, I think I did)
I wrote that I definitely need to watch the back of the metal.Because the beetles for different reasons, climbs, and often due to the fact that the rot starts from the reverse side. If so, then is any need to be blasted 2 sides.
About treatment after sandblasting, I can say one thing, a lot of opinions.
Personally, I stopped at the next — it should definitely cover the epoxy primer. With it as soon as possible after sandblasting. Because the air is relative humidity, and the metal after sandblasting the maximum subject to rust.
Well, if the sandblasting process only one side would be the effect? After sandblasting need to handle metal? This is why I write these blogs, so you gave advice and taught how to do) that is why I am very grateful for your attention)
Yes, no question.
If it were so simple — put it on the Converter, and as new, the welder was not stupid would work.
There is nobody not a secret that all the converters do not display the rust as such. Rust — oxide. After the rust Converter — converted oxide. But still rust. Which after a while turns back to its original state, but if spotly, on the ground, rubbing with a little water, it only speeds up the process.
So do not forget the reverse side of the metal, it is also necessary to look in the breeding of beetles, and if necessary repair
Rust will lead to either sandblasting or perevirka.
I don't care that every second car made this way. How to do the solution to each is his reputation, his clients, his earnings.
dimon-c4
Not for long the repair, alas.
I need specific criticism) alas, alas every second car rolls made this way
You mean a bottle of zinc?) if Yes then night will load the video and tell me that this options))))
Eh, not girlish this case, hand to spoil and all this stuff to breathe ( and so well done
I agree with the previous speakers that it's not for long. good riddance to such centers of corrosion it is either sandblasting or welding surgery. epoxy primer I don't know why you didn't help, but it works. it can even take the spray BUT ONLY the SPECTRAL 395, it is also good for Protasov. there is such a thing as umerkot, expensive, but worth it. the main progruntovat bare metal least common ground, and only then spakly to throw. regarding filler-I see this situation sandblasting or Dremel.
with rust you can fight only by its complete removal. cut brewing, etc. as one friend — that will burn that will not rot)) and properly isolates suggest rzhu only epoxy primer at least 2 full layers. but before that, all loose rust must be removed mechanically i.e. grinders or nozzles in the drill is also good and helps the metal retain. there is a wire nozzles of different shapes and sizes .
Lena you did a good job ravica is a sore subject in the automotive body and cincar help us RAID after it will work you need to remove to bare metal, after pojelaesh or epoksidnye or acid, the grinder is not cleaned conveniently because of the momentum she's large, I use an old polyalloy with its 4000 rpm to do it much nicer, good luck.
The first time I'd thought of it, I have a sandblasting gun from the compressor, I will try tomorrow to work)
Lena, che himself sandblasting will not do, or not buy the device, Sorokin suitable for such medium-sized works. I think the work will be faster and easier
It's simple. Clean the rust, put rust Converter is good, it kills the rust and cover the item with a protective layer. On top of the epoxy primer, zinc, primed, paint. Proven 2 years flight normal.
For the first time, did a great job! And I will not advise, advisors there's a lot ...
In my point of the Converter is that it at the molecular level and penetrates into the metal and stops the corrosion process. What is it with zinc, and as it dries, it is logical to think that leaves a film of zinc, a galvanized... of Course it is good and should improve the corrosion protection. How really effective is this crap! Experience will show.:)
Still remove the rust/filler-whether eccentric angle grinder machine, emery circles of Velcro. Is not very expensive, and the thing in the body repair is very useful-just as useful of Bulgari will.
Any first exercise is already good, and learn from mistakes especially his. Unnecessary over the girl laugh, so it is not much not the right thing but still she did IT HERSELF ! Me today when you go to a man on the station with a request to change rear springs on 124 gelding, to be honest — these dummies in the car, I have never met, especially because I had his car to drive back as it almost hit two cars ( not just turns) and this despite the fact that a man of age and experience he more than 10 years (if you believe him, I didn't believe it) so my friend Nenana to laugh at the girls whose hands from the correct place grow. And you CLEVER girl, continue to learn and gain experience, your experience. Good luck !
th is out of my League? I'm in their cars from welding /painting and motor doing it all himself...
well done?!Yes, her own hands doing what you can't handle and you still vysmeival its-manly?
do not know what is wrong, if the girl is poured into a petrol car the Solarium at the gas station you would approach her? or would have admired for her work?)
man shares his(!)work, and this man is a woman...he is capable of anything...what a time that for humans?!and consider themselves men-and maybe mud--mi?!
Done in a similar way opalek, only there it was not through. Generally, if all a rip off to really clean metal (no black spots) and technology with epoxy primer outside will stand. And to guarantee you must shed the internal cavity.
For internal cavities have a great conservation and stopping the process of corrosion — all fluff fish oil, in Google a lot of information on this topic
On the outer metal parts rusting after such procedures may not be, but inside, where the metal is in contact with each other, rust can not be stopped, at least on this machine I think the process of internal corrosion has gone.
Wow, first time seeing a girl painter. And on the subject as I work with the rust — Removed with a grinder, put the primary phosphating primer, which works as zincare video, only better secondary then I put epoxy primer over wet and immediately apply acrylic and only then shpaklyuyut. Phosphating — does not rust beyond after Stripping the grinder, microcast of rust still remain after the Bulgarians. Epoxy is the only primer completely impervious to moisture, hence nothing underneath to continue to rust and the putty will not gain water kotoroje need it that would not be stocks, acrylic to apply because I'm somehow afraid to putty in epoksidnykh, but who both work. There will be questions, ask.
The tank can be cleaned by sand blasting, to bring their garages to those who drives colors they have.
do on your own?
well done!
not every "M" or "m" or "m" will take on such things. (M-variations of men)))
Or this girl lived too far from the Children's world, or she has too many brothers.
I wish I had a girl wings in order to bring.
Maxzoni
And I did not like the rust Converter... After his vyshane, had epoxy primer. After vyshane soil, put spakly. Started to grind and I have all fallen off together with the ground. ))) Changed a rust Converter, and it worked.
the best phosphoric acid and nothing else to do
Maxzoni
And I did not like the rust Converter... After his vyshane, had epoxy primer. After vyshane soil, put spakly. Started to grind and I have all fallen off together with the ground. ))) Changed a rust Converter, and it worked.
It is not in the Converter and in violation of the technology.
If you put a tea spoon of sugar and spoon of salt, will to sin that the tea is not delicious, because sugar is bad?
Or acid, or epoxide. Epoxide with kislotnik not friendly. Want to paint using epoxy primer? Clean out all the Converter (which very roughly speaking is the acid soil) and primed epoksidnym.
If using acid, kislotnik — acrylic — putty. Putty on kislotnik impossible. Kislotnik on the putty — you can.
I first cleaned out the rust, then Cinerem passed.Sometimes we clean it sometimes not.Then applied epoxy primer.Him acrylic.Then if you need spakly, acrylic and painted.
Converter need to time to prevent the spread of rye.It is necessary to cover the epoxy primer.As the soil is moisture, air, and accordingly will prevent the spread of rust.Then this place is rich with all sorts of acidic properties overlapping acrylic primer.Which serve as a protective layer, that all of these acid is not reacted with the filler.Then spakly Then primed and painted.
Well, I was off only with this Converter. Everyone else okay. Well, spakly we imposed. Then it was sanded. Naturally again appeared bare metal around. If you continue to impose acrylic on bare metal, it will begin to rust. Or, still, after sanding apply the epoxy, and then the acrylic?
Maxzoni
And I did not like the rust Converter... After his vyshane, had epoxy primer. After vyshane soil, put spakly. Started to grind and I have all fallen off together with the ground. ))) Changed a rust Converter, and it worked.
First comes the Converter, clean it, then epoxy, then acrylic, and then spackle on spakly again, and acrylic paint! Nitsche does not fall off ever.
best Converter this is something which will make himself with acid and zinc powder, it seems is not stored very long but the most vigorous work
And I did not like the rust Converter... After his vyshane, had epoxy primer. After vyshane soil, put spakly. Started to grind and I have all fallen off together with the ground. ))) Changed a rust Converter, and it worked.
Super Defcon! the main thing that has fascination, charm course for girls, but still good after all! And Yes, dad I understand, too, scoring a pretzel. All done!
For a picture of the grinder with a female pen Bosh have to pay extra, as for advertising. )) Class!
if you do and something you will be forgiven . (although hard to believe ) even a conversation you have absolutely no idea about what was removed and what they say . even though you are doing it all wrong .AGREE? . learn learn of course if you are interested .listen to the Pope . consult with more competent people. .because learning this thing right once and for a long time. (to RUB Converter is not necessary) the trail should be removed to the very end . otherwise it Polesie and nothing can't stop her even spackle . and no epoxy primer .a matter of time . enough and month . pricacy repairs it is advisable to disassemble the car .
Elena the best of phosphoric acid and brush, to strip anything not necessary apply to rust .waiting until the end of the reaction washed with water and forms a clear film instead of rye grunty and paint
There are a couple of pictures can be interesting about rust on the body www.drive2.ru/l/8131804
Why sand? He climbs everywhere and anywhere cleans to metal.
About sand and personally work with him.
1. It will be everywhere you can be everywhere really is everywhere. So close everything you can yourself first. Any mask of glass from flying particles within 30-40 min significantly zamatereyut.
2. For normal operation requires a compressor 400+ l/min with the AV receiver >and it's only 50L to blow for 2-3min and wait for the pump again, pressure 6-8bar and more work, anything less is a waste of time. 700+ l/min and a receiver for >250l already real to do something. Dehumidifier is needed, or a separator for separating the water outlet.
3. The sand must be completely dry, fit the usual small building.
What is in the photos is ~ 30kg sand to walk on the little things.
On this basis it is easier to find who does and ask them to blow off professional installation and within the hour all these kotska will otselyat clean. From metal by acid, and to the garage to do the rest. To purge sand, degrease, primer acid or something with zinc, if you need a primer on the zinc then.
Also follow a simple rule: after the sand no contact with the water, in addition to acid etch and then rinse with acetone it, because the primer needs to squeeze in all the pores, cracks, etc. if rust remains though-where will climb again. Something like this.
Good job, but to you, the same work was done by the dealers-hacks. Everything you do is a consequence armless, not in good faith repairs in the past. For girls, a great job, but after renovation it is better to get rid of this scrap.