How to raise Ravchik? - Toyota RAV4, 2.0L, 2001
So after trips to nature, I realized that it would be nice to raise my tomboy) and the time to replace the front shock absorbers came up.
Already purchased -
rear transverse rods (top, bottom) -
bones (front, rear)
left to buy amortization and springs ...
You see the target, and the source too.
By the way, I understand that the amorts for 1 and 2 RAV are the same
The idea is as follows
1. Front struts
a) option - din
48510-49016
48510-49026
48510-49017
b) option - short
48510-49065
48510-49066
The difference is 55mm. - this suggests that the racks are most likely designed for operating the machine in more severe conditions, for example, a weight load or driving on country roads. There, most likely, the stroke of the rod is greater, which will also have a positive effect on the operation of the suspension: there will be fewer shocks, breakdowns on dives, in pits, etc.
www.off-road.com/trucks4x...8?contextCategoryId=35708 (c)
Below is a table for Kayaba.
to be continue ...
Price tag: 0 ₽ Mileage: 140,000 km
The fact that the racks are longer is, of course, nice. Only the angles of normal operation of the CV joints with them will not be exceeded?
55 mm is, in general, dofiga, as it were for a link suspension. Just need to look where exactly these 55mm are sitting - on compression or on rebound, or is it added here and there?
you know, tried it. did not like . the effect is almost zero. stopped on wheels. now their two sets are summer - low-profile, winter - high-profile. 5 + 5. Five - because the spare wheel must be the same diameter as the wheels on the car. Otherwise, do not put it (prohibited) There are still 20 mm expanders under each wheel.