Service sameblock EATON G80

how much it costs to service the diff and how long it takes? Can I have a PM? The truth is I have Eaton Detroit True Track Dana. Installed new two years ago. If such do, say, be grateful. Can come beginning of the season.

in a personal reply.

how much it costs to service the diff and how long it takes?

Find out photo)
Thanks again!

Clear.

Don't know, just my phone was an old Nokia keypad, it without a camera, and the camera was not needed, I have it in the garage and dragged them used... Now everyone's smartphone, they are better than any old camera to film everything.

Need to bring a cheap point and shoot I bought for 200p to the Commission.

Have used a couple of photos from the old photo archive for clarity. Other photo relevant. During the work, especially once the photographs to engage in hands dirty, for each photo to wash them stupidly once.

Why other people's photos pulled?

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Hi! Let me remind you that the source is the place where it is done. Some photos taken from the ARCHIVE that were created by my camera and in my garage (on a photo it is visible), at a time when another user was working on my site. In this case, all the objects in the photo (early and late) was obtained as a result of my work. However, they are all equally reflect the essence of the work undertaken and reflect the real current information.

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Look carefully WHERE you took the photo, and you'll understand that I don't need to ask permission for something that was made by me and photographed in MY garage.

Here is one photo, which you can see MY feet in my shoes (available in album the author, which do you consider the source) =)

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for what? =)

I confirm that I HAVE. =)

Confirm, photos rude spizzhennaya

Taken a couple of photos from MY archive, which he also posted. A COUPLE, not all, just for clarity. Otherwise — you can think of anything, I persuade you makes no sense. Just need to know that these I nodes and the details worked out long before your designated character actually started something to fix.

Here there is a moot point, whose works he stirred the pictures, I'm thinking that its what's in Your garage, it's so-so argument

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He has posted on his blog, making it in my garage pictures of my work. Now we are working with him separately.

what is signature to them, look carefully

Some photo taken from another blog

Here is a breakdown of the pair is not from the jerk, and the fact that as a result of breakthrough inside sameblock details apart and pieces of them fall between the teeth of GP, and damage them. This was. Not often, but there are precedents. Axle tore on my mind 4 times, so, too, sometimes.

I have here 2 questions: is there any cases of broken couples and the second, more relevant to me, how many of those bridges with folded axes?

The adherents of the former partner who, while we were working together, more photos of my work to do than he was doing something... Now it works, but its customers don't know on whose backs and at whose expense he went.

Something many tripping assholes from pictures.

Stinger

In a year when the daily operation God forbid 20-25 to roll in my terms, and it happens for 5-10, so to change the oil in the gearbox every year is unnecessary.

Any oil once a year should be changed, not only in dive. Even if the oil in the canister is blunt, but the tube was opened. It is not a matter of mileage and engine hours, but only that any oil tends to oxidize, and accordingly, it loses the properties of the oil.
life-with-cars.ru/eksplua...god-pri-malenkom-probege/

Your gear is up to you.

In a year when the daily operation God forbid 20-25 to roll in my terms, and it happens for 5-10, so to change the oil in the gearbox every year is unnecessary.

Rus, to argue makes no sense whatsoever. Do as you see fit, I assume the statistics of the real regular user of the Volvo 940 — for the year 25-40 thousand mileage, all weather operation, winter constantly bukovka. The unit loaded, is working constantly. Pleasure in winter don't be stuck — pay for the oil change. I think it's worth it. To spend 2 Grand a year on oil is much cheaper than buying another sameblock, and generally much less than those unnecessary costs, which we do constantly.

Video can be viewed on my instagram made this Saturday, the link on the page. I always feel when he was involved and when not to.

Is — great. It works even better. But are you sure it works every time, always when it is necessary, in the normal mode? For example, I can feel his work — and correct and when he works irregularly or with delay. Most owners are not able to feel it and will slip and step on the gas "to last" until you break the diff, which is already "filed the bells" that it is time to change the oil.

Why would I put him when he is not in the first car and change the oil once a year regardless of mileage in the 2000 or 20000 it's a real nonsense and everything to drag back here for nothing.

For example, I may here draw what you take to work and do their second year, although the money paid.
Then who of us who have him handle your subscribers.

Thanks for your opinion, dear. You have the right to set sameblock and not change it the oil. Each "skochet", who else wants to...

Brake hoses, not current, change — the same nonsense, I get that a lot. And rings to be changed in the motor, which is 400 thousand skated without boring in repair size — game...

"In contrast to conventional "free" differential, sameblock require to change the oil quite often — once a year, without looking at miles / kilometers traveled." nonsense

Anyway, it will work, more or less, we should not deceive ourselves. I assume that the car is in average passing for the year 15-20 thousand. And the capacity of the bridge in the 1.4-litre is very little oil rather quickly produces the contained additives required for normal operation of samboka. If Carter was on 3-4 liters of oil, the conversation would be different. If there are other statistics and other practical information — it would be interesting to see.

That sort of garbage, what with changing the oil once a year regardless the mileage. Can still, as in the motor, or the term or mileage, whichever comes first? Well, operating conditions also, I think making adjustments. Riding on the Moscow asphalt and suburban casesnew obviously different will load the lock.

Stinger

No it is not lsd, pure in the General sense, Is a hybrid

LSD is actually a very broad concept and it covers dobrinishe variations of locks as tightly closed and worm and disk...

OK, will respond differently — when using other oils, there is no effect of blocking.

No it is not lsd, pure in the General sense, Is a hybrid

so EATON G80 is precisely LSD-lock =)

It is not correct to pour this oil into the bridge with the lock. This oil is for LSD, it it vital. Suggest to carefully study the instructions to the GOV-Loka.
To correct this condition, drain and refill the rear axle with SAE 80W-90 GL5 (P/N 10950849).

The use of any additive in locking rear axles (G80) is not recommended. Rear axle additives are designed for use in limited slip differentials which are normally installed in cars. All light duty trucks equipped with RPO G80 make use of a locking differential and the use of additives will delay the engagement of the locking mechanism and may decrease axle life.

Thanks for the information.

Regular LSD-sameblock EATON G80 (like the photo), worm blocking RRI is still the most affordable options are either have in stock or can order and receive within 2 weeks. Razboltovka all couples are the same, differentials are compatible with all GP.

Hi Alex.
Please tell me what are the locking dif.suitable for a couple of 3.31 ?
Saying not all couples have the same razboltovka. Bridge installed on the Volga.

depending on the total amount of work and additionally emerged — the basic maintenance cost is usually about 8-12 thousand (including new oil) if you need to repair or replace any elements (components) of blocking or there are additional work — value increases.

Informative.And how much this procedure costs?

Well, thank God))

each roller bearing thoroughly and carefully daubed with grease fill the void underneath the cage =)

The question was what was. Laid the grease into posibnika? Or top rollers smear.

If the question is, wash Lee, we have the bearing, then the answer — of course, and wash it from the old grease and put on it too with new grease before installation.

"Fresh grease in the bearing housing" is all that was done? Or bearing too as it should be loaded grease?

alexVRAgINA

But I had a lot of questions to the oil Castrol 75/140, after replacement, drove 1000 km, drove a few fords and decided to look at the bridges in fear of the emulsion, the oil was carnousie as if he had never changed the smell, I realized that it just simply burned, while the maximum speed in range I was 110-120km/h, so pay attention to oil

The same was disappointed in the Castrol, although I always used a SB for it.75/140 is frozen at -20,

A little not a complete description of the situation — you have not mentioned whether produced flushing of the axle housing and differential housing from the remnants of the old oil, sticky deposits on the walls and other dirt, which is a natural product of the work of the unit.
Usually, fresh oil so effectively blurs available inside the mud itself becomes very dirty. So, I think, of questions to the oil should be less than questions about the quality of the process of its replacement.

But I had a lot of questions to the oil Castrol 75/140, after replacement, drove 1000 km, drove a few fords and decided to look at the bridges in fear of the emulsion, the oil was carnousie as if he had never changed the smell, I realized that it just simply burned, while the maximum speed in range I was 110-120km/h, so pay attention to oil

Why? Special no alternative to it.

Technically possible, practically — impractical.

This video has already seen climb on BJ;)
About to shoot — it would be interesting, and with a smooth clutch release and the subsequent increase in revs, I wonder what rpm you lock works...
And you can, by the way, somehow "finished" lock to reduce the speed difference at which it is triggered?

Not removed, not even thoughts somehow... Thanks for the tip — I will set sameblock, take off his work on the video. While it is just a video for health checks after overhaul:

Interesting... we is normally considered to be brand new units, just installed it and working.
Somewhere opalas infa that it is triggered when the difference in speed of rotation of the wheels of 100-200 rpm.
The only difference we have a Dana 44, you have, as I understand, Dana 30, same Eaton W-80, Koreans really did paleobotany in LD.
And there are videos to work correctly on the machine?

The hook needs to happen when a small difference in wheel speed, that is, when the SET speed with one wheel and not when it has managed to spin up to high rpm. That is the problem and should (by design) to prevent a special mechanism that prevents the blocking of the second wheel. However, practice shows that the destruction of the differential often occurs due to the fact that the old oil was not damping any sudden strike by proper operation of the clutch and, then, his strength dramatically and simultaneously acts on the components of sameblock parts not designed for such stress and load.

>Sometimes it is worse — when bukovka, the owner of the car increases speed dramatically and there is a "hook" clutch and a sharp jerk of the second wheel

Isn't that normal work is the G-80? For its operation it is necessary to spin the wheel, it works well just from the speed difference?
As an example, the first video on the tube:

Eaton as proizvoditel this blocks totally disagree with you . Because of the friction pairs in this type of blockages fill a DIFFERENT role .
Modifier pour for what ? just decide for yourself what problem it solves.Then understand what you are doing freaks in Hau loc .And then realize that adding a modifier will be only the wear of the friction pairs . A modified slide pairs leads only to the fact that loads when the lock is not reduced...

RUmata-111

Vol weird.
Gm strongly recommends pouring lsd oil.

if there is at least one pair of friction — you need to pour oil on the tolerance of LSD, ATP and the like, no gl oil will not work because they lack the friction modulators.

On many controversial things, exactly gives the answer only one thing — stats.

Vol weird.
Gm strongly recommends pouring lsd oil.

upiter4x4

sameblock Krasikova working almost ten years in off-road conditions and just.Rosneft oil 75-90.shown in photo design from the perspective of an unreliable locksmith initially

From the point of view and practical experience of the technician consider DUCK a brilliant design! Especially the ability to quickly upgrade sameblock replacing the balls with new, and late, with wear and tear of tracks, balls with a slightly larger diameter that would eliminate any backlash.

I wrote Krasikova that it would be ideal to provide a special stopper to replace the bulbs without removing sameblock and even WITHOUT dismantling the bridge.
Unfortunately, he did not answer. They are already old, and the trouble he has, I think, without this lack.

But such a tube can be done independently, if it is good to talk.

Faced in practice with the products of the DUCK. But I can say that fundamentally they are completely different purpose and they are also different. Samolocie EATON intended to support the goals and their construction is designed to operate at low vehicle speeds. From the point of view of the resource, they work for 20 years or more, at a more or less regular service intervals, so this is also no problem.

sameblock Krasikova working almost ten years in off-road conditions and just.Rosneft oil 75-90.shown in photo design from the perspective of an unreliable locksmith initially

ai-tec

duck is a profanation, it works with biting, even in the slightest turn. When reversing it self be blocked can not, you need to briefly press on the brake. Balls break inside the rails, especially at the transition with the is needs only part to another, so that it can firmly lock or crack the housing.

DUCK is often confused with DAN, that sure bites. Well, counterfeiting is not excluded, this time.

don't use lock, I only live to lead, but the meaning does not change, the fact that he bites and it didn't fix anything, except how to change the design.

ai-tec

duck is a profanation, it works with biting, even in the slightest turn. When reversing it self be blocked can not, you need to briefly press on the brake. Balls break inside the rails, especially at the transition with the is needs only part to another, so that it can firmly lock or crack the housing.

So you do not go for the duck worth it. They two sort of go, figuratively, 100% lock forwards or backwards. (when installed in the front axle changes the direction).

ai-tec

of course, for example in electric cars unnecessary or gearbox, no driveshafts, no lock, for me Zolotie gold)

and duck better go around the side of stupidity is

Nothing of the sort. All manufacturers of electroweak made sure that CPR is needed. 2-3 stages significantly increases efficiency of electric motors.
Advanced design of electric cars already have a transmission with a solenoid switching. Physics has not been canceled.
.
.
A DUCK is a brilliant design! Only likes changing the oil often and control the geometry of the balls.

You're welcome!

Thanks for the links, will read later.

Always nice to meet and chat with adequate and intelligent man, here is a video about the work of blocking DUCK and its analysis, I hope to be useful

and also about her work

Probably 1 thing you will take — for the sake of experience. I have clients whose machines are working "specifically", not quite in normal modes — they are such a lock operation may be approached. For Council — thanks, negative experience — too experience.

of course, for example in electric cars unnecessary or gearbox, no driveshafts, no lock, for me Zolotie gold)

and duck better go around the side of stupidity is

Each design has its nuances and peculiarities, it is impossible to imagine a fully versatile product... Another issue is when select the design that exactly matches your operational need, it turns out the Golden combination of features of the product and its application in practice.

duck is a profanation, it works with biting, even in the slightest turn. When reversing it self be blocked can not, you need to briefly press on the brake. Balls break inside the rails, especially at the transition with the is needs only part to another, so that it can firmly lock or crack the housing.

Yes, I understand, thank you very much. I've thought about buying DUCK and to check on your own machine and for producing information, statistics — is that, in relation to the Volvo, about experience information.

wrote to the fact that there are more than a simple, fairly reliable sameblock and maintenance easier and cheaper-checked personally.

I was recommended to write to You:

I bought a new Tahoe and 42,000 miles of travel on the factory oil, and yesterday replaced it with a oil without friction modifiers, and immediately climbed the creaking in the corners.

Yes, the devil knows .I think I'm going to put the experiment on his car. Most likely flushing will help .
Just after the incident with the car of Ruslan already want to understand what's what.
PS the clutch does not change.In any case, spares are available

I wonder if there's a way to eliminate the squeak without replacing the clutch?

Most likely due to the saturation of the friction material modifier .At different differential speeds, the plates move relative to each other ( the unit still did not work) .And they start to creak. The modifier takes the sound — but it vovose does not mean that they are beginning to work as conceived by the manufacturer. The manufacturer is generally believed that the modifier disrupts the operation of the friction pairs and this leads to their wear.During povorotov low-speed friction pairs do not have to work!- a car differential works as a simple open differential.

The ambush that without additives the bridge with GOV-Locke it is not childish to howl...

GOV Lok is a LSD does not lock.
This is a normal, 100% sameblock, with the presence of the friction on one axle for damping shock loads.
The essence of LSD-lock is in its title, Limited Slip Differential — differential, limited slip. The wear of the friction on Goloka does not damage it, just will be harder to engage, a conventional LSD unit, the wear of the friction leads to its transformation into a conventional, open differential, i.e. a complete failure of the lock. To do this, and need crutches, the type of additives, that have worked longer.
GOV Locke on diagonalka work, LSD doesn't work.
Oil for LSD interferes with the GOV loc.
What says the manufacturer.
Clutches it is not designed to slip like a conventional LSD unit.
The regulations replace selects each how love or religion.

Cage21

And aluminum cap can be replaced by iron and Vice versa? For sudden starts which sameblock better to put?

Palosaari.

Thank you!

Yes, the cover on the bridges are completely interchangeable. Just under the aluminum cover bolts are longer.

For sharp starts best pure LSD-sameblock on the distance axes of the satellites (very rare) or worm-screw lock (available domestic production, RRI). ETON was intended for a different mode — to go vnatyag of dirt the normal way to proceed. Or for quiet movement on snow and ice... It's not for racing — though he helps with sudden starting, but it's not his main mode of operation.

And aluminum cap can be replaced by iron and Vice versa? For sudden starts which sameblock better to put?

Do not know.

for such cars as the Toyota Rav-4 third generation, there are a locking rear differential?

In engines the amount of oil and more circulation it better. In addition, the cleaning properties of engine oils is higher than that gear (except for ATP).

so pour the oil once a second
it will not wash out the dif? motors and washed

22-30 thousand

Alex, now how do г80 for sale?

my nyvka in REM of BLOKK from IZH-techno RPM sameblock ED, have been working for 3 years, no complaints. Pour Castrol LS 75W-140, just like the one You have...

I am extremely relaxed and no bursts of emotions our communication, I have no objections — it's a discussion where we exchange personal opinions, based on different source data.

Thanks for the clarification, which can be useful for all the readers of my blog, but the problem is that, just by changing the oil otherwise, ONCE there is a change in the performance of this node from the unpredictability of its operation to a complete absence of health. These same characteristics, again, IMMEDIATELY restored when flushing this differential and fills me recommended oil. It is a repeatedly observed cases.

This is the statistic that is the basis of my opinion and where I'm building recommendations. My findings, and methods of constructing logical chains may not be entirely correct, but here are the facts and comparative statistics cannot be interpreted differently, they, in this matter, clearly and consistently shows faithfulness or wrong when choosing used oil.

Very emotional.
Recomendo even so with the perspective of a techie to understand that and how it works.
Because the problem is that the statistics in this case, you will show nothing .Because neither in the first nor in the second case it breaks down and outwardly, everything looks as it should .
The second problem is that you clearly do not understand how it works .And act as it is often found on open spaces of our homeland for "signs" poured oil worked.In fact, it most likely will work on ANY oil .

Nothing personal — but even so understand the principle of operation of Gau Lok.

I already answered to another user, and I repeat to you — you are free to use IN YOUR CAR what you want solutions and lubricants, arguing that whatever theoretical calculations. I am not a, unfortunately — I need to retrieve the result from the first time, so I rely on practical experience and accumulated statistics PERSONALLY. So, I go out on specific processes, custom on used actions, tools, materials and lubricants.

AlexeyVolvo

If you use regular oil the clutch starts to slip and blocking does not occur.

in this type the blocks but the clutch itself still lock performing the role of damper.And biocide it mechanically during the rotation of the tutor because of the difference of differential speeds .

with oil under LSD on this type of locks first start shock inclusion because of the wear plates of the clutch — which is only needed for a smooth block inclusion.

Statistics — a stubborn thing, it is difficult to argue. One normally operating the bridge with the oil, about 10 working abnormally. And they are absolutely perfect for the "mechanical" part. Washed them, pour more oil and all is working normally, as expected.

Hmm, very strange. My G80 locks up perfectly with the oil

If you use regular oil the clutch starts to slip and blocking does not occur.

Funny. Why everyone is so fond of pouring into sameblock oil for the differential limited friction? Sam EATON G80 pouring the oil with the LS additive is not recommended. Or when pouring a conventional oil have any side effects?

"it will be just very good. rigidly connected to a second axis " ... and to tear the axle shaft. I agree 100% and don't try to challenge. Have experience with this site, there are the accumulated statistics, both positive and negative, that's what I here in the public domain. Everyone is free to think for myself and draw their own conclusions, I will not impose their opinions.

I just want to know why against the advice of all the strange running .
I'm 20 years repairing these strange Gau Loki and know that he is over 20 years, well, nichrome not pomerai design .
Previously all instructions were written — do not add additives .Moreover, it always worked for 80w90 without any problem.

Just really understand how it works — it's simplest mechanics. There are no koldunschik things.
The simplest differential governer with 100% block. The clutch only for damping inclusions...if they are replaced on the hard drive will just be PTS. rigidly connected to a second axle .

Yes, your position on this issue clear. I'm inclined to take the LS additive as a means of counteracting the occurrence of scuffing in friction parts and prevent their "dragging" (or friction welding) to each other. If this action occurs due to the increase scalesanti — I do not care, so be it — the main thing that it is effective and this method works.

Following your arguments, is even more clearly explains the fact that this additive helps to solve the problem in Tahoe — apparently when the available internal preload, scalesanti standard oil is not enough.

AlexeyVolvo

Judging by the sound, you in the mechanism of samboka has some preload, which is (theoretically) needed for the smallest time delay functions of latching or sampling of the backlash (to avoid streaking). Respectively conditionally"free" state, the clutches are all the same under some load and with small differences of speed of the wheels, rotated relative to each other "tightly". But it is at the stage of conjecture and theories, while such a node will not be parsed and viewed by virtually...

Now in fact the questions: Г80 is the common name of the design, which may have different versions and the difference between them can be quite significant. For example, in the form, material and profile of the working surface of the friction. This, in particular, establishes various tolerances in the applied lubricants. About LS-additives — they allow you to have more "linear" (i.e. predicted) the friction between the parts, not allowing them to "welded" to prihvatyvaya between the result of the local heating. Thus, according to the recommendations of your manufacturer, the design of your sameblock, apparently, can function without LS additives, but for the mechanism of constant tension, apparently, these additives are required. It is possible that the drive/sameblock was previously without this feature (in previous model years) and was added later, remained under the same production index as often happens with "Americans", and the specifications moved to "inherited", without taking into account small structural upgrades. Suppose, also, that these problems can be well-known manufacturers, but such details can often be eliminated "without noise" — just the next time you visit the dealer oil changes to need or fill additive necessary, "the quiet", unable to endure dirty linen in public...

So eaton write that you CANNOT add additive for LSD in particular — this case.
And they explain their position by the fact that the friction pairs in this type of unit works only as a damper .With increasing time of sliding ( and the additive just makes the friction pair more slippery) and at constant compression force occurs "Laden slip" which leads to wear first the oil and then friction pairs themselves.

Thanks for the comment, the version is also very interesting)

Judging by the sound, you in the mechanism of samboka has some preload, which is (theoretically) needed for the smallest time delay functions of latching or sampling of the backlash (to avoid streaking). Respectively conditionally"free" state, the clutches are all the same under some load and with small differences of speed of the wheels, rotated relative to each other "tightly". But it is at the stage of conjecture and theories, while such a node will not be parsed and viewed by virtually...

Now in fact the questions: Г80 is the common name of the design, which may have different versions and the difference between them can be quite significant. For example, in the form, material and profile of the working surface of the friction. This, in particular, establishes various tolerances in the applied lubricants. About LS-additives — they allow you to have more "linear" (i.e. predicted) the friction between the parts, not allowing them to "welded" to prihvatyvaya between the result of the local heating. Thus, according to the recommendations of your manufacturer, the design of your sameblock, apparently, can function without LS additives, but for the mechanism of constant tension, apparently, these additives are required. It is possible that the drive/sameblock was previously without this feature (in previous model years) and was added later, remained under the same production index as often happens with "Americans", and the specifications moved to "inherited", without taking into account small structural upgrades. Suppose, also, that these problems can be well-known manufacturers, but such details can often be eliminated "without noise" — just the next time you visit the dealer oil changes to need or fill additive necessary, "the quiet", unable to endure dirty linen in public...

Good day!

Chevrolet Tahoe GMT900 has also installed the rear differential the Eaton G80. For this reason, I have several questions:

In the service manual Tahoe indicated that to pour into the differential necessary oil 75w90 (in the American version — 80w90), You pour 75w140 — specify, please, what is the reason? Also the manufacturer of the differential is not highly recommend to shed the limited slip additive or equivalent limited slip oil, as it leads to incorrect operation of the differential and its early wear. As far as I can see from the photo, the oil You have limited slip.

But the main question is different — I have two more people after the next oil change in the rear differential (~135к, 60K and 45K mileage) beginning to howl the rear axle when turning at low speeds. After pouring the additive LS all gone. Specialists of relevant services can not definitely say what caused it — it has been speculated that previously flooded the additive killed the clutch, and without it, the bridge is now howling — but earlier LS were filled at oil changes only two of the three cars and the "young" (~45K) is the first substitute, and oil in the bridge was a native. It was also the assumption that no LS clutches "stick together".

Do You have suggestions?

Relevant posts:
www.drive2.ru/l/531892049545265778/
www.drive2.ru/l/531345867144167553/

And howling like so:

PS now I saw that the remaining two and the owner of the relevant service already written comments, but your delete will not, and the question I put is a little different)

We have no masters that the contact patch GP can handle not what the differential to sort out

it's called delay the inevitable, if the lock on one of the oil began to work worse and the other better than she in any case needs repair and the oil is just delaying the inevitable, and on the city sedan in the city that might work and performance on the thresholds in the swamp with diagonally 33 sneakers, any kind of oil will not save it's not LSD which KB depends on the oil in this unit the clamping of the friction clutches occurs with such force that she was able to pull a 3-ton SUV from diagonally, and if the discs are worn then the oil in this case will not help

Your position is clear and understandable I to argue with her don't see any sense. But there is a feature that makes it clear about the necessity or uselessness of some of the oils — if one oil is one and the same fully technically sound, the lock works and the other not — then the so-called "conventional" oil is no good for her. That's the whole point of the question about oil.

You can with her (locked) to talk some persuasion to work as it should, to say her whole theory about its design, the applicability of lubricants and about your practical experience working with bridges and hundreds of installed samolotow. However, when the site will not work properly and YOU will pay the wrong oil (or node repair) from YOUR POCKET, you quickly switch to the type of grease, which guarantees full and unconditional performance of the node, without trying to experiment with lubricants at his own expense.

I work with bridges for 11 years and such blocking did not put one hundred and they all work fine on conventional oil, and Eaton writes that a special oil is not required!
I'm very simple this lock is living in two States, fully unlocked and working as a freelance deaf or completely blocked, in the first case, the disks revolve freely relative to each other and do not create any friction, therefore they do not need oil with friction modifiers, and in the second case, the discs are compressed so they cannot be rotated relative to each other and not rubbing and also does not require friction modifiers. and if the lock has ceased to work the butter is not as not connected, then a clean mechanic works is not dependent on oil!

It's special. But in a synchronized transmission it is poured you should not.
For such cases, Motul Gear 300 or Ravenol RHP.
All worm gear units are not bad on regular oil, then disk.

What is special about oil for locks? Collected on 21099 CAT on the block, filled synthetics. Everything works. I doubt that it is something special.

Your comment is like saying "Yes, I, too, he can fix anything, but I'm too lazy", so such comments should be written on paper and go with them to the toilet.

Each has its own statistics and your own personal view of things. I cite your observations and your conclusions, you are free to draw their own conclusions and to pour into his car for what you want. The only difference is that I am responsible for their actions in front of their customers, in contrast to the "armchair experts" and all sorts of mozgalev, which tend to include you.

"I prefer to use oil stamps "kastrol", or "LIQUI Moly" — these oils are very well established. Strongly RECOMMEND to fill the oil "Motyul" — it proved to be incompatible with samolotami EATON G80, they're all on a butter was put out of action"
yeah really...it's like saying that you can drink kefir, and sour cream — poison.