The secrets of sewing

Hello)
Apparently I have a dead teacher, which need to resurrect. Well, I like to share with enthusiastic people defined by their knowledge, experience and achievements))

Today I want to tell you about some of the pieces that gave me a hard time)

Here is what I inserted for the previous night...

Many questions disappear by themselves, when it comes to experience and a lot of km run on the sewing machine.

Many questions remain unresolved, if people sew for themselves, not to production volumes. He may never learn many of the secrets and little things.

I want to share with you the experience and knowledge that I acquired, read, passed through the rake, I learned-asked-peeped many masters here, etc., how to sew, use in your Arsenal of trivia and things that make life easier and solve a lot in the appearance of the finished product.

Stitching in fact everyone can learn. Someone earlier, someone later. Someone is crooked, someone good. But, unfortunately, learn to sew only after a certain point of time. You need to "run" a certain amount of sewing and kilometers and stuff a bunch of cones.

Firstly the most important thing is your work space.

1. LIGHT

Most importantly — light. Not even his hands) Light. Put a nice big diode lamp on the machine, since they now cost about 1500 rubles. Put a diode on the needle on the magnet. Put additional diode lamp on the left foot. So light you will think only about work and not to squint, swear and twist.

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2. TOOL

Organize your workspace conveniently. Put under the right hand shelf, drawer, wall, whatever. For example, how does my place of work.

To my right, within reach of the right hand:

— needle main sizes, fotnote in the foam. Bright marker sign foam, needle size and sharpening. It is not necessary to keep the needle on the magnet or in any kind of prisposobleniya on the machine. I always needle under the right hand 120LR, 130LR, 140LR, 90R. The rest left in the drawer;

— scissors are easy and snacking. Snacking is our main tool . Buy their coils of 5-10 pieces, many things easy to do them, they quickly tupjatsja;

— small pliers. They are easy and handy to pull the needle when you change it, appropriately the slot under the Shuttle;
proboitic for quick markup marks.

— tweezers with curved edges. Very convenient to get any stuck thread under the needle;

— lighter. This is a required tool ;

— the awl;

— powerful stapler for rapid fixation of the two edges of the material;

a set of feet for decorative stitching;

— a couple of screwdrivers to change the needle and presser feet and quick adjustment;

oil for lubrication;

black pen and white gel pen;

— a lot of bobbins. Many wound bobbins, 20ka and 40ka different colors. Black and grey 2-3 pieces (primary colors).

On the left I have a box where everything else less needed.

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3. THREAD

The thread preferably siting next to the car. Some jobs require frequent changes of thread and needles, so it should be all around. If you have the room dust or some manufacturing, it is better to close the thread wrap from the cellophane or put in a drawer. They were covered with a layer of dust, take up, RUB — it's so dirty then. Will have to cut and throw the cut.

The photo only 20ka. 40ka 10kA and yet separately

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4. NEEDLE

Check the tip of the needle. If it is blunt or curved, the needle in the trash. Not worth a wank and sit to rule needle needle files. Although unable to rule. That's your business. I throw out.

The cost of a kit of needles of 200-300 rubles for 10 pieces is cheaper to change the needle than the whole Shuttle mechanism. Pokapu only SMEs and Groz-Becker.

Ignore the rest after several breakdowns of the machine and the constant peeling of thread. You are not rich enough to buy cheap consumables)

5. ITSELF SEWING MACHINE

Of course, ideally, to have a machine with triple feed material (non-stop) and the servo. That is, if you are going to sew bulky items, like covers, etc.

Handlebars and cozies cat can sew and podolskij all. If money is tight, look for our car 1022 or 1022м. They all have needles and bobbins and spare parts. There are also machines of the Soviet triple-promotion, but I honestly don't remember what it's class. Or 22nd or another. I don't remember. All sorts 23ие and 34ые classes pressrelease not very suitable for such things. To twist her small radii on the skin — a sweet deal. And sewing something in volume is problematic, put all the screws . Count on your pocket and vozmozhnoti.

So the basics of.

Details grind off the needle number 90R, the filament 40.

Decorative stitching needle room 120LR, the thread is 20ka.

If you want a thick seam, the thread or 15kA 10kA, the needle 130-140LR. If the material is thick and layered, even on 20ку can supply 130ю needle, and when much everything is tight and muffled, sometimes even 140.

On a string is better not to save Especially on bridging. My main thread Point CT Penny, then Synton, then Guterman, then a little Titan, Durak, Makro, Filan for simple operations.

The thread is thick . We used 10 — the thickest and 40 the thinnest (for our works). All thread — 100% polyester.

There is also a very important point — the machine is set up, sewed well, it was cool. Changed the color of the thread — all ceased to work. Then gaps, then tightening, then every crap. Change the thread. And lo and behold, everything will be))))

I for example threw 3 reel Nitex 40ки. When I realized that I had the problem starts when it's on the spool, I'm very surprised. The yarns have such characteristics as torsion. This torsion greatly affects the work. My machine (6-7 typical was not friends with the niteks) .

At gutterman has a cool series of threads with propiska, sviland. For boats and boats. Can do handlebars, will not folosita.

Carefully look over the thread on the finished product. Is that thread as hairy as the back of a Georgian. So somewhere its picking on some detail of your machine or the needle is small (eyelet pulls the needle) or needle Chinese. For them it is the norm.

In the spool of thread run from yourself. It's actually a matter of habit. Even the mechanics say that no matter the direction of rotation of the bobbin in spelldial. BUT different cars have different perceptions of this tension. My machine sews better, when the thread in the direction opposite to the bobbin.

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Try and experiment.

Periodically lay machine on its side and look into the Shuttle. It happens because of one piece of thread 3mm wedge the machine so that then cranks up the teeth and need to call the master.

THREAD TENSION (STRAPS)

Here is the rule of clockwise and everything just really.
It is necessary to remember one thing — sat down to sew, just check the thread tension. Changed material, changed the thread, changed the needle, changed even the speed — it is necessary to readjust the tension of the yarn.

Take a piece of the same material if you just leatherette, or the same sandwich and sew. And check.

If the knot gets up, on the face of the material, the straps are strong. You need to make a trafficking regulator adjustment counterclockwise (to the left) and try again.

As long as the knot will be inside the material.

If the knot is at the bottom of the material, the stretch is weak, turn clockwise circulation, try again.

If the stitching is decorative, it is best to remove the knot down to make it visible a bit from the bottom.

On the lower photo are clearly visible the stages of adjustment.
Line 1 — it is not present, 2 — poor, 3 — weak, 4 — good, 5 — strong, the knot went up the leather a bit wrinkled in the place of this line. You need to seek the option number 4.

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In this photo you can clearly see how the needle LR can change the tilt of the stitches depending on the yarn tension. Take a closer look. Also the slope is affected by the initial speed, which is so famous for asynchronous motors. That is, the slope just disappears when the engine is "bullet".

The color of the bottom thread on the spool is better to pick a color of the material. To put it preferably the same size as the main thread. Let's put the main thread 20, the bottom also put 20.

Put the bottom 40, respectively, the straps will be stronger because the thinner the thread will beat out the top. Put down 10ку, straps will be weak, because the thick thread will give more subtle to pull himself up.

Very important:

decorative seam: the straps should be adjusted in such a way that the knot was visible from below. Not much, but only its shape. Then the top guaranteed you will not see the bottom thread in the hole of the needle.
But a weak stretch to be done, there is nothing worse than weak bands on finishing the bearing seam. This time you need to learn

— bridging the seam: the straps need to set the maximum possible. To a knot climbed up to the maximum. Twist clockwise pucker until then, until the material begins to mordenite. Give a little bit back and then it will be the perfect strap for bridging the seam.

Also an important thing for bands transitions with different thicknesses, twists, etc.

In sharp turns the drawcord is weak, monitor these points, keep the thread all the time in tension.

On the turns when making the incisions to the upper material came in within deeply cut notches. When finishing the seam, the needle will fall into the gaps of these notches, that is to sew one layer of leatherette or leather and straps will be weak. It is not correct.

Also transitions from thick to thin will be weak straps, pass this place and slowly pull the thread up with a strong transition.
The bands are influenced by the thickness and density of material, one layer or two, with foam podklady with podklady of izolon. Under all it is necessary to configure each time.

Get in the habit always to cut off the seam allowances at the root, even if the material will stretch to the foam and hide the stapler. So it is better to lie.

Cut the material to the as they say the cobblers "with undercutting". As in the photo. Obezatelno need to see the edge of the seam. The cut should be smooth, as if you cut it with a knife.

Cut, without changing the position of the scissors has propelled them forward again, cut again promoted. The cutting edge of the scissors should be kept in contact with the skin, continuously cutting the same angle and force.
Then the kerf is smooth and correct, you will never cut the threads of the seam or even worse a piece of skin from the face.

In the photo the correct position of the scissors arms and the weld relative to you when you are guaranteed not to cut the thread material and the cut will be smooth It's called cutting "with undercutting"

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One more important thing. The greater the speed, not even speed, initial acceleration, the stronger the straps and lower the step of the stitch.
Let's say this is well illustrated by this example: set maximum speed for the servo or just press down the pedal strongly on the induction motor, start sewing quickly then reset the speed to low and slowly sew some cut. You will see that at the beginning of very strong straps (lace up top), long stitch-less, once slowed down, the bands decreased and the stitch was longer. This effect is well visible in the Chinese vysokoopasnye asynchronous machines with engines that need to be put on the seamstress, not on the machine with the triple promotion for fine work. That's why I bought the servo.

Also on the pucker affects the direction of threads in the bobbin and presser petal. Different machines have different perceptions of the direction of rotation of the bobbin in spelldial. Try both directions. You also need to adjust the presser petal. Ideally, it should fare well — take one of his hands spidertel the other thread and let spidertel. It needs a barely down (to spin) down. A little bit. This is the normal setting. Will be weak to hold the thread, and straps. Will be hard to keep — would be a good drawcord. Ideally, of course, you can have each thick filament configured your spidertel. But this is for perfectionists, because he do not plan. Each manufacturer threads the thickness of the yarn floats so that it is possible even to distinguish. Not enough of spiderzilla)))

THE BEGINNING OF THE WORK

Accustomed to start always leaving about 10 cm of both threads. Lifting his paw, pulled the bottom thread ago, summed up the leatherette, lowered the needle to the starting point, took the needle thread to the left and brought under foot, lowered the foot, crushing the upper thread.

Now you can sew.

Always look at the beginning of the operation for the lower thread . Pull her back. She has a habit of getting under the needle and it will tighten to the spool. It will be bad. Also always keep robotee the place is clean, any trimming even half an inch always sweeps on the floor as soon as they appeared.

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Accustomed to the fact that the start of your thread should be only lowering the needle into the material. It does not move the material anywhere in the side can start moving the needle to break it.

Also accustomed to start and finish any of the seam sucrepop.

Enough to make 2 times back and forth. Even if this place will be cut. Especially for bridging the seams, there can be 3-4 times back to back. As you turn the material in the hands of nothing razreshitsya, not to blossom, etc.

THE PRESENTATION OF THE MATERIAL

Never pull the leatherette. It is not necessary to pull the lower or upper part, when you realize that you are not covered on the label.

Disband all before, make an allowance of more 1 mm (for example was 1, was 1.1 cm) is guaranteed to cover the holes from the old stitching. Most likely you made a mistake.

If you are sure that you have the correct labels, some problem with the promotion. All this reguliruetsya, everything is configured, we need to understand what the problem is.

The reasons for a bit — incorrectly affixed labels, is buggy progress, "curve" sew. Leatherette you just need to submit the car, as if completely relying on her, just stroking the material as it should, exactly edge while holding a direction to control the same tension of both parts. I slightly pull the material. Slightly to straighten the parts and all. Nothing to pull on yourself, the second hand does not pull forward. I only help, not do most of the work done by the machine.

Very important is the height of the legs. The height and the amplitude of both legs is adjustable to the left under the panel on the side of the machine. I set up so that the leather or leatherette in a single layer foot holds barely barely. But fat sandwiches sews well.

The lower leg, the harder the machine to sew thick layer. The lower leg and above the layer, the smaller the stitch length, even at its maximum. And Vice versa.

Always start sewing slowly. Always. Very often some kind of infection-the thread goes where it is not necessary and the machine can catch wedge. At high initial velocity can crank up the teeth.

Another important rule — sat down to sew something responsible — check the thread in the spool. Put a new winding.

RAN OUT OF THREAD IN THE SPOOL

When does the thread in the spool is bad. The last rpm is a bad drawcord. In the heat of work, you can stitch a couple of meters without bottom thread))))

Do not immediately cut the thread and start again. Pull the excess thread up, go back, step back 5-6 stitches, insert the needle. Insert the spool and sew on.

You can also do decorative finishing IRRESPONSIBLE seam, pulling the excess then just back and glue.

The photo shows how I was thinking and "spend" ))) went Back, changed the spool, pull the main thread all up and started over 3 stitches before the end of the seam. Then just put the extra inside and glued. All.
You can do exactly the same, only the butt joint. Do differently.

Often I do like the photo, nothing do not remove or podkladyvaya. On noticeable places and not bearing seams 3-4 "double" stitch no one will see. I'm certainly not talking about seats, as is — zaleta and ATA-TA-TA)))

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Also you can cut a thread if you find it easier to start sewing from the same place, leaving a seam allowance of both threads 10 cm

IN THE PROCESS

Lubricate the machine. At least once a week Don't forget. The oil for the machine for your water. But remember — drink a lot — a lot of piss)) is Also not very good)

Always put labels. At least 3-4 of the item. A little beyond the beginning, middle, and pedagogy to the end. It really helps. Buy curved forceps, they facilitate
work.

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THREAD CHANGE

Replace the thread should really just cut the thread near the spool, tied a new knot and handed everything to the needle. You will not have to fill all over again.

Another important point — when you lift the presser foot of the machine, no matter of the leg (a mechanism for lifting the knee) or foot behind me, the cups on utinam the mechanism apart and the thread goes without a hitch. Always remember this and lift the foot in any such procedure vitravene thread
.
Also take it as a rule always parallel to the sewing shakes on spool thread. You run out of thread in the bobbin in the car, change and put a new spool to be wound. Shakes basic colors, but have always at hand the colors and sizes of threads for faster operation.

If you need a quick namethat the thread on the spool, raise the presser foot up and shakes the maximum. If you have doubts about the accuracy of the machine — twist the needle. The thread must be removed from the needle. Also get away from the needle. Suddenly something fall.

Also remember one thing — never be lazy to change tooling. Need something to sew — quickly changed the needle 90, changed the thread, wanted the spool — made. Have something nice to defer — quickly 120 , the thread spool. French seam — presser foot, needle, thread, spool. It is not difficult, takes one minute, and the result is beautiful and CORRECT work.

GLUING THREAD

If the place is important, the beginning of the seam and have to start beautiful, start stitching, leaving the ends of 10-cm. Then turn back facing you, pull the bottom thread, pull the upper thread down. Namaste Nairit thread. If the place is not responsible and is not important, just put the ends of the thread and promate their glue. If the place carries, Namaste Nairit and minutes using 2-3 tie two knots.

Before you tie a knot or glue the thread to have a good pull on the upper thread to remove the knot from the face of the material. And then do the necessary procedures for glueing.

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A simple knot sense to show no.

The first time can draw on the reverse side of the top part of the line centimeter from the edge. You so it will be easier to sew.

Then buy the magnet, the limiter material. Then make a mark on the cover right at 1 cm from the needle or make it a landmark any screw, bolt, protrusion or etc Then you eyes will sew a seam allowance, orientiruyas on the "beacon" on a typewriter.

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More detail always keep bottom, the radii changing the upper parts. The bottom only goes VLED top.

Sew slowly at first, not in a hurry. Faster not smoother and not exact. Slow stitching is tedious, but reliable.

Also, try at least to change positions with the circumcision thread. Jump, jump, sew along the edge to the beginning of another, etc.

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Always mark the material with the faces of white gel pen or a Shoe web. Only use a WHITE gel paste. Do not hold on the material of the drawn strip more days, then difficult to wash with water paste. After a couple of days to wash only with white spirit. After a week or after the treatment with the Hairdryer may not be erased. Pruchases mark directly before sewing and sew and wash immediately. Don't hesitate-marked material. Not worth it, there is not hemorrhoids. Paste for obovsem a good thing, but requires unrestricted reserves of formic alcohol or ordinary alcohol))) Counterfeit vodka did not try, it is necessary zatestit.

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Like main wrote. Types of decorative stitching will describe some other time. If you have questions — ask. In this article, you read a lot of information that I have acquired through trial and error. Unfortunately most artists don't share such secrets, for some reason, specifically not right))) So happens. I do not mind to share information of this nature, polzuytes health