Oil change - Toyota Corolla, 1.6L, 2000

castrol ... ugh =)

Air 270.

it's rare ... that after castrol something is clean.

and something for the price. scatter everything how much did it cost? otherwise it seems to me quite inexpensive)))

filter 250 rubles, air 400, and then the hop for oil?))

and five for you for choosing a viscosity. otherwise all 10v60 pour.

Well, you don't have to drive to the castol =) You remove the valve cover, and everything is clean and beautiful there! Here!)

Hi Nikolay! I and many owners of similar engines are pouring the Japanese Mineral Castle 5w30 (by the way it is inexpensive 860-1000r for 4L), I change it every 4-6 thousand, depending on the mode of operation.
There is something to compare, I poured Castrol Magnatec, it is much more expensive (1850r), there are a lot of fakes, and it burns and smokes horror, besides, it rides noticeably worse, you release the gas smoothly on mineral water at idle, it is better enough. In addition, the set of additives in this oil is really large and does not decrease as in the export version of the original "Toyota" mineral in red cans ... in contrast to it, Castle is the same as in the domestic market of Japan ... and there is no need to overpay for the "Toyota" brand ... How often do you change the oil? Have you watched a graph with a curve showing the lubricating and protective properties of the oil?
At the expense of refusal to flush, you are in vain ... I flush 2 times for 10 minutes with the usual 4-liter TNK, and one can is enough, pour 2 liters at a time and mud with a shaft! and the fact that under the oil lid is clean, so this is a temporary phenomenon and your capacity is still apparently in good condition.

I was dissuaded from washing, they say she is cutting rubber elements. That's why I don't wash)
And at the expense of Castle oil, I have not even seen this on sale here, or did not notice :)
I change it every 10,000. Although I should have done it earlier)
Now in cold weather I roll 130-150 km a day)

I agree with the viscosity of 5W30, but you need to pay attention to the development of the motor. on a tired motor, we are no longer talking about energy saving and competent operation of the VVT, 5W40 is also possible there, nothing terrible will happen, but on a hot motor it will only be better protected! But you shouldn't overdo it with viscosity either! All sorts of 5W50, 10W60 in our motor is impossible, because the oil simply does not reach the prescribed lubrication level, the oil pressure simply will not be enough to restore the oil wedge!
You need to be more careful about the oil in this motor! My choice in summer is MOTUL 300V chrono 10W40 double ester, and in winter MOTUL X-lite ester 0W30! Everything is only on an ester basis!
I change it after 3-4 thousand, since the oil in the engine is only 3 liters, and this is with an oil filter! At the same time, 4A-GE is prone to overheating (an oil cooler is required), and our fuel leaves much to be desired, and the climate is harsh! But from time to time this motor must be unrolled on the road (not in place!), Otherwise the rings begin to lie, the VVTshka is rolled up, etc. etc! So the oil is quickly depleted! And the motor must breathe and be clean! You can't save on this, because it's still his heart!
By the way, I found an excellent reference here from
Penetron Artem Ageenko for oils

www.gt-four.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1707