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3. Box, steering - Toyota Sprinter Trueno, 1.6 L, 1998

First of all, through teammate Moroza, a TRD short-stroke rocker was purchased and installed. To remove unnecessary backlash on the gearbox cables, the rubber bushings were replaced with ball bearings.

3 Box steering - Toyota Sprinter Trueno 16 L 1998The rubber clutch tube is replaced with a reinforced Venhill with mandatory slurry pumping.
clutch - 325 hose
tips - 2 pcs.
hose fasteners - 2 pcs.
Also a clutch kit from TRD was purchased and will be installed in the near future3 Box steering - Toyota Sprinter Trueno 16 L 1998 with a lightweight Chromoly flywheel weight: 4.7kg 3 Box steering - Toyota Sprinter Trueno 16 L 1998 I wanted to put and try a dry steering rack from the 90th body, which was previously disassembled 3 Box steering - Toyota Sprinter Trueno 16 L 1998 and sorted out (replacing anthers and bearings), put the steering rods from the Strat rack, 3 Box steering - Toyota Sprinter Trueno 16 L 1998the power steering rack was removed along with the pump, pipes and reservoir. During installation, it was necessary to increase the steering cardan, since the rack is lower and replace the crosses, and a small part of the cardan is assembled from two due to the difference in the diameters of the shafts on the dry rack and the rack with the power steering (thanks to Medved for the cardan for experiments)3 Box steering - Toyota Sprinter Trueno 16 L 1998 - I haven’t tried it yet, because the car is still idle.3 Box steering - Toyota Sprinter Trueno 16 L 1998
By the way, in one unequal battle a year ago, the main pair in my C160 box was licked off, the box was moved over - the GPU was replaced (thanks to Hakke.net for s / h), several synchromes and bearings:
if anyone is interested, I cooked up a report on replacing the GPU with a photo of two parts
depositfiles.com/files/k8zf33xwc - disassembly www.drive2.ru/l/454050199711515815/
depositfiles.com/files/4p3pmerar - step by step assembly www.drive2.ru/l/454050749467329131/

214 Comments
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o
odder 08.12.20

Wheel steering angle speak more, dry, less space under the hood, less stress on the knee

D
Djohnqwerty 08.12.20

And why is the rake from ae86 better?

s
slideragp 08.12.20

>> rubber bushings were replaced with ball bearings.
Tell us why you came as a collective farm? I also have backlash in these places, so to speak, the bundles of cables on the box ...

o
odder 08.12.20

So I started on the outlets with my bushings - one rubber band broke and the bushing itself sour on the gear shift fork - I thought about it and decided: I can't get new ones, only with cables, I didn't want to grind out solid blanks from the luminaire, as I didn't want to follow the links, maybe because when switching they will create friction - gradually erasing themselves or erasing the ears of the gearbox cables, which is not an option at all
I took measurements from the ears of the cables and the switching forks - it was decided to pick up the bearing of the right size and stick it in place
Go to the store where the power tool is being repaired and here it is -
bearing 22 * ​​8 * 8 to 20 rubles - 2 pcs
washers 30 * 8, 2 rubles - 8 pcs - (6 pcs were useful, or 4 if you leave the old ones)
washers 18 * 8, 50 kopecks - 2 pcs
Saw in the garage:
I rip off the remnants of old rubber bands from the cables, I process the inner part of the ear with a sandpaper,
since the bronze bushing sour tightly on the gearbox fork - I had to remove the plug and cut off the bushing
with a grinder , I process it with a pipka sandpaper on the gearbox fork, I coat
everything with a little grease, I
put the bearings in the cable ears and a little blows with a mallet,
since the bearing is 8 mm thick and the fork is slightly thicker (ideally, take the bearing 9mm -13mm thick) - for this we took two small washers,
then we put on the fork - a large washer, a cable ear, a small washer, two large washers, and fastened with a clamp - also with a three cable, the
time for work is 30 minutes (with tearing off the soured sleeve)
costs 53 rubles
tool: 80 sandpaper, hammer, pasatizh / head for 14, vice and grinder, if necessary,
as a result, rigid, indelible, ball-bearing connection
in photo
14 - bearing and marking
12 - washers required for one cable
11 - pressed ears
15 - the first cable is ready
photofile .ru / users / odder / 3773539 /
For convenience, the cables can be removed only from the mounts on the box (nothing needs to be disassembled in the cabin)
For those who do not want to put 3 large washers, there is a solution: with a
small drill we drill a new hole for the clamp on the gearbox fork pin , so that the ear of the cable fits tightly - that's all
Additional tool - drill, drill
Time of work + 10 min
Costs -12 rubles

Y
YLevin 08.12.20

Cool! Tell me please, have you weighed the original flywheel from BLACK? And then I, too, got under the tail of the reins, so that I could do something with the transmission.
And on the injapan website I also look at this flywheel. Lighter perforated ones are quite annoying, I'm afraid it will be difficult to ride! And this one seems to be the golden mean. The only thing that confused me was the picture, I thought it was second-hand, but by your example it is clear that everything is fine there.
And tell me you've already tried it or not, and what are the sensations, respectively? And then you have not added anything for a long time!

Y
YLevin 08.12.20

Thank you! So we must take! When the time comes for the connection, you will immediately need to change everything in the kit. Listen, how is the trogon from the spot? Has it become more difficult?

o
odder 08.12.20

The stock flywheel Black weighs 6.2 kg
Since - I also removed the gur, the engine began to spin up more merrily, a good reaction to the gas pedal
I could not especially twist it - since during the break-in and on the winter cut

Y
YLevin 08.12.20

Well then, you definitely need to take it! And then all our rally drivers scared me that I could not drive!

o
odder 08.12.20

I didn't notice anything special - I didn't put the ceramics :(