Self-blocks - Toyota Carib, 1.6 L, 1988

The principle of operation is described there, it can help with what)

Yes, I did not ask this question much.
We had more discussion on the characteristics of the 1-2way.

Go to the official website, there are many of them)

Oh thank you. I was just looking for his image))

inner voice is right

Rear from Cusco

The question is tormenting, is it possible to screw LSD from levin / chuck on the front? (an inner voice says no, but I don't want to believe)

This is some kind of diff?

Cha's box is all-wheel drive, I think that the chances are very small

he began his labor activity in a construction office ... just as being on the site, out of nothing to do, I watched the movements of the excavator on the pneumatic duct EO, I don’t remember the number (but if I really need it, I can find it) ... the drive to all 4 wheels is constant, while also with full blocking ... while he was crawling right over the mud, asphalt, earth and stones it was fucking awesome, but when he tried to turn the turning radius was incommensurably large compared to the angle of the wheels (on dry ground) ... as a result, the mechanic turned him around leaning on the bucket ... leaning on this experience, in fact, I spoke ...

as for the self-block in the front axle ... I myself thought about it seriously enough, tk. in any case, change the box, but there is one unpleasant moment ... I don’t know about the Levins, in my case the stock block can only be on the 0.5 way coupling, while it cannot be replaced with another one ... if you buy a box without blocks ... you can put it 1 or 1.5 way. The people at the starlet club, who set themselves tuned blocks, more than once talked about the deterioration of controllability ...

Another question ... maybe I misunderstood ... but you also kind of changed the box? but where's the old one, if it's not a secret ... I have an idea to equip my car with all-wheel drive, but for Corso, as well as for all other cars on this base, all-wheel drive is available through a clutch on the cardan ... while it is rather frail and turns on late ...
It was here that the idea was born to put a box and an axle from the Caribbean ... people have experience in installing MT transmissions from 4A-GE levinas to 4E 5E ... I have a block ... I would like to try on, what and how ... I will be very grateful if you can help.

I will clarify then, what do you mean by the concept "rulitsya worse"? Increased understeer? Jerks on the steering wheel? Something else?

Further. Well, in terms of viscosity, this is about Toyota, from other manufacturers they are different in design.

I also agree about the maximum acceleration, but I don't see the difference between a straight line and an exit from a corner. According to all the rules, at this moment the wheels should already be on the acceleration trajectory. And here is a self-block, no matter what role it plays. They have the same meaning and principle of operation. The question is the degree of blocking.

Well, further in the same spirit, blah blah blah (in a good way).

But, in order not to breed demagogy, not supported by reliable data (that is, direct comparison of the operation of various options on a living car), I will say that yes, the question of the advisability of installing a self-block on the front axle of a civilian all-wheel drive remains open. Therefore, I see no point in competing in theory

Another nuance. Considering the question of self-blocking specifically in my type of transmission, I proceeded from the situation that for the center diff (and here without any B - this is the first thing that needs to be transferred to automatic locking) Kariba I figs that I can find, since this is simply not exist. On the rear axle it is clear --- the solution is the AE86. But with the front differential, the situation is 50/50 (well, 85 (impossible) to 15 (possible)). Suddenly something can be prikolkhoz from the same "Levinotrun". For the sake of experiment, it would be interesting.
But not more. The hysteria that I need a self-block on the front, and doesn’t get sick, I don’t.

In part it is ... steering on LSD is much worse. Well, if we talk about what comes off the conveyor in the drain ... it's 0.5way on the viscous clutch. Everything that is produced for tuning is primarily designed for movement in front with maximum acceleration.
IMHO ... the center and rear block is useful ... but to add here also before ... an obvious overkill.
PS. on the drome one type sells to the block from AE86

Hmm, to put it mildly with such a "theory" it turns out that any front-wheel drive car with self-locking (the same Levin / Trueno LSD, Mazda 3MPS, Ford RS), in principle, is "not controllable."

I agree that the nature of controllability will change dramatically, but that's the point. I also agree that three self-blocking units are an extreme option; in transient modes, the power circulation will be "akhtung". But on the other hand, they are "self-blocks" in order to avoid the negative aspects associated with their use.

Why block before? the car will no longer be controlled, to put it mildly

Today these are cars of the S2000 category, they just do not have a center differential. Of course, they will bring an ordinary self-blocking unit, but electronically controlled, as in the WRC, no) But these are not our budgets))

Here I am of the same opinion - axial and rear are needed. And the front wheel drive is already a matter of preferences.

As for the axle, I read an article on rallying in class. I don’t remember which one, it’s the closest thing to the "drain" of the car. It turned out that with 100% blocking of the axle, the time for passing the special stages is better, despite the whole "theory". Controllability really deteriorates, which is quite predictable, but a car with a 100% block consistently brings "unblocked". Therefore, most teams have abandoned the distribution altogether, with all that it implies - the mass and complexity are less, the reliability is higher. But these are purely combat vehicles, on the streets in the summer in this mode, they will gobble up rubber at once.

To be honest, I don’t drive in a straight line))) Only sideways. =)

In fact, here you need to proceed from the principle of sufficiency. All three self-blocking units, yes, only pure sport, it will become difficult to drive everyday on mechanical ones.

But the center-to-center (automatic, not manual, as I now have) and the rear one, on the contrary, are absolutely necessary on an all-wheel drive car, especially since I really prefer to drive on soil / gravel and snow / ice. Plus, due to the open diff in the front, the power circulation will not directly affect the steering wheel, but things like acceleration and slip control can only improve with locks in the back and in the center (although I feel the center needs to be hammered, you can just pre-lock it hard. being ready for understeer).

Why do I need all this --- otherwise it will be more difficult to get Subars and Eviks in winter) they already have it all, and even with brains)))

To be honest - even on a viscous block and acceleration in a straight line on an uneven road, the car has to be "caught". Jerks to the steering wheel + yaw of the car itself, you can go into swinging. In the Caribbean, the yaw is less than I (and the Starlets) will have, the base is longer, but if the car is not specifically for sports, then the block is not needed, with the already available all-wheel drive.

It's easier for me in this regard - the center block is turned on by a lever, or rather, the rear axle is simply connected without any diffuser, and with the rear axle gearbox I was just lucky - he howled and I pulled it out to look. a neighbor - grandfather passed by and says that the gearbox is exactly like on his MOSCOW-401 with FULL drive! They stuck them in - they didn't fit, they undermined them - they shoved them. redone something. the gear ratio differs by 0.0328, in Russian - per kilometer of direct movement - the difference between the front and rear mileage is about 5 meters. But he is a Soviet iron mechanical self-block. Now I have 3 wheels rowing, with a 68 hp engine, I no longer need it, and the passability is VERY good. IMHO, of course

Lyosh, viscous coupling from Kalda to the interblock, and the self-block to the back.)))