Purchase of a contract engine - Toyota Mark II, 2.5L, 2000

(Published six months ago, on the tourerV.ru forum. We are talking about the purchase and a detailed bulkhead of a pikhla)

Well, now you can definitely write about it.
Some already know that I have moved 1jz-gte. Just do not ask what exactly prompted me to purchase and in general to the idea of ​​a swap, everyone has long understood everything, and there are tons of reviews about such things on the net. Apparently just ripe. Well, as some say, while not married, you have to be in time!
The search for pikhl did not last long at all, a day at the auction, a day at local flea markets, and at the end of the day I was disturbed by the user of Romerozz with a proposal to “pick up” the pikhlishly unproblematic. One hour and seven minutes later, we shoved into a new place of temporary residence, a garage I rented for this summer.
1JZ-GTE with Mark 2 tourer v in addition with automatic and oblique. In the engine, the oil is almost up to the dipstick, in the machine, too, dextron (and clean), which prompted me to think that it is still running. Later it was found out that the engine was watched by a minder, who was delighted with the state of the engine and would have taken it himself (a little earlier he cost a supra in the 70m body, and wanted to shove a turbojay there, but he turned up a second jay in parallel, and he decided to put it on, by the way , now he seems to be finishing the electrician), but refused at the last moment and then I appeared. In any case, in the state of the engine, I wanted to make sure myself, as they say, the eyes are afraid, and the hands are taken apart :)
How long was it short, the whole hitch, collector, turbo, hoses, pipes were removed ... All the bolts and nuts were easy enough to unscrew, which suggested a recent analysis / busting. Glasses about this increased, I was afraid that, being fried to the fullest in yapia, it was sold due to wear and tear. On the timing cover, by the way, the handle, as usual, was the mileage at the time of belt replacement - 84 thousand. The belt itself was a fairly fresh sample, firstly clean, there was practically no oil coating, and secondly, it had the inscription T-power on it. Well, that's it, then I definitely decided that it was definitely not my grandfather who drove on this engine in Yapia :)
The tensioner roller was generally new, as it seemed, no backlash, no dust, no soot. By the way, as everyone writes that the drive sprocket cannot be removed without a puller, I pulled it off with my hands, even with my fingers, but of course I had to sweat with the bolt that fixes the crankshaft pulley (I fixed the crankshaft from the opposite side, and then, only, with a large crank with unscrewed with a pipe per meter). Both oil seals are dry, without deformation and looseness. In short, the outside was shoved clean, with a thorough study without a run, which made me happy. We climb further ...
Valve covers, one bolt missing and one screwed in without a plastic washer. What is it for. Both were removed without problems, at a glance it is impossible to determine whether the factory sealant or already manual. But the droplets of the sealant are even, black. In short, it doesn't matter. I checked the oil separator, well, this is what is inside the valve covers, usually the first thing is clogged with coke from piston wear or when the oil is hot. 6 or 8 hexagons, and gently pull towards ourselves (there is a sealant) so as not to bend. Opened, saw, stunned. You won't wait! Everything is as clean as a factory. Oil film - yes. Color - golden, dark brown in places, but clean everywhere. Mother to grind, what's the catch. We climb further. Unscrew the camshafts according to the book, put everything in turn. I took it off, rubbed it, probably looked at the plane for half an hour - there are no risks. Everything is smooth, mirror-like. Found one insignificant risk on the head, on the penultimate graduation (from the pulley if you look). So slight that it can only be seen from a certain angle. I think it's not scary. He examined the cylinder head from above, looked where the eye with a flashlight would reach. Everywhere the same, even, oily, working bloom of dark golden color. The oil scraper valves will of course change. It's so clean, but it needs to be changed 100%.
In general, it is already clear that the engine is clean from above, but the thought of what might actually be inside did not give rest, because when I took it, they did not start it, they did not check it (but how ?!). I was tormented and tormented and decided to stupidly turn it over and open the pallet, look at the workout and the muck that seems to be inside. He lifted it, set it straight, twisted the drain plug (4.5 liters of oil spilled out), twisted it, turned it over and the remaining oil flooded through the cylinder head to the floor, but oh well. I unscrew the pallet, the sealant is evil, you take it off, glued tightly. I picked it out, opened it and was stunned. And again you will not wait! I've only seen this on a picture on the net. There is not even a hint of coke in the pallet, the oil is clean, the oil receiver mesh is clean, no poop. I climb into the depths with a flashlight, touch, everything is clean, everything is fine. That's it, I won't go further. The engine is excellent, in my non-professional.
Correct, tell me what you need to pay attention to now while he lies belly up, almost disassembled. Now I do not plan to remove the cylinder head, I will do the maximum decarbonization, again, is it necessary ?! Measurement of compression on dry as I read it is not very noble, rather pointless. Although, of course, the picture of integrity is 100 percent. I will collect, measure. Probably so.
- I plan to replace the valve stem seals. I ask for help with the decanter or its artisanal analogue, I do not disdain, I can even press my finger, but I know that I will be tortured. Guys who did, tell me the nuances, I seem to understand the technology, but I never did it before. You will have to do one valve at a time, holding it through the inlet / outlet windows. And if it falls into the cylinder (pah-pah-pah) it doesn't seem very scary, there is a way to get it out and put it in place. But help in general will not hurt.
(August.I changed the oil scraper valves myself, found a Zhigulevsky dryer and made a key for the required size using its analogue)
- in addition to this, for the replacement of esessno rubber goods (rubber, including nozzle rings), copper (on the fuel and oil lines), intake and exhaust gaskets. Well, in general, everything that is included in the set number 1 of engine gaskets. What else would need to be changed ?!
(August. The motor is already assembled and smeared with sealant wherever possible. The rubber goods have been replaced)
- I will wash the nozzles. In a chemical way. With a 5-9 volt power supply unit and a jar of carb-cleaner. I think everyone has heard about this method. The external condition of the injectors is normal, no cracks or dirt were found. I think an easy wash will not be superfluous.
(August. Soap nozzles, as it was written, by a chemical method. Indeed, the first zips were far from ideal, however, after I released the entire cylinder, the spray torch was in the form of a cloud, as it should)
- how can you flush the cooling system ?! The engine is naturally removed and not connected, the pump is removed and flushed completely (outside and inside). How can you remove the plaque created by antifreeze (red-brown), I want it to be clean.
(frankly speaking, I scored this point. the pressure in the cooling line is normal, so I decided to just ride and change the coolant next year)

End of August 2009. The motor is installed, connected, wound up and run in. I am satisfied. I will try to find the time and describe everything in detail with photos.