6. Well, what, what? - Capital! (4A-GE BT) # 1 - Toyota Sprinter Trueno, 1.6 L, 1998
So the symptoms are oil consumption of 1-1.5 liters per 1000 in the city. Kakieto oil leaks near the knee pulley.
It is clear to disassemble the whole - you cannot do with replacing the rubber bands :(
Preparation: I bought in advance a set of engine gaskets, oil filter gaskets, filler cap and ignition distributor, release bearing for a new coupler, half a pump, oil pump. Sachets and tape for bolts Alcohol marker, pen, paper, camera, manual for the car and separately for the engine - they are a little different and in one book there is something that is not in the other I cut a bath for washing parts from friends + bought solarium 35 l for her.
We have a garage without a pit, a light, a music, a jack, supports, a set of tools in a suitcase, a vice, a drill, a screwdriver, a head + arms from the shoulders and a minimum of knowledge on repairing engines - therefore, most of the issues were studied and solved as they arrived.
Well, let's go!
The first thing we do is take pictures of everything under the hood from different angles, especially the connection points of the wires, pipes and in general the location of the engine elements.
I removed the hood, bumper, headlights and turn signals in advance, then
simply - we disassemble what we see - block by block - I decided to get the block without removing the box from the car. What I took off I wrote down on paper, I put the fixing bolts in a bag (signing them) and glued them to the windshield in order with tape.
We remove - an inlet box with a filter and nozzles, an exhaust manifold to the catalyst, power steering and ABS are removed from me :)., A receiver with pipes, wires, candles.
Next, we drain the cooling and oil from the engine with the filter, remove the drive belts.
Disconnecting the standby pipes one by one - I marked them with a marker and tape.
The intake manifold was detached from the head and removed entirely, the gas cable, various vacuum tubes were also marked with tape.
We detach the entire braid, unscrew it from the block, bend it back so as not to interfere.
Next, remove the starter, weaken the generator, remove the radiator.
The block, the gearbox and everything under the hood are in the clay from the last pokatushek in the quarry - good clay is not washed at all :)
Everything that interferes seems to have been removed - now we take up the timing
belt He took off the cover and marked the position of the belt relative to the shafts.
In general, the procedure for replacing the timing is perfectly described in the manual, so I will not focus on this - I removed the belt, roller, tensioner, pulley and knee star (the pulley came off relatively easily - I invented a small puller in the form of a piece of profile in which I drilled a couple of holes for bolts that are screwed into the pulley and then, in several runs, unscrewing the knee bolt and tightening these bolts, removed), all the plastic timing case covers, jacking up the two - the right pillow, loosened the pump - to remove it for a long time - the pin did not give it - only by disassembling the pump into two parts - it took off , head cover, (all lacquered)
from the photo you can see that the head is not so much and the shit of the
VVT clutch and the release gear.
then we unscrew the intake shaft - so as not to interfere with getting to the head bolts and then remove the block head itself and observe such a picture
After smoking and collecting our thoughts, we unscrew the suspension of the right drive, the block from the box and literally pull it out on our hands through the top - I worked alone so that the block was puffing and swearing from the undercarriage, but all the same I pulled it out and landed next to it for further disassembly.
End of the first day of work, tired, but satisfied, sawed home.
We drove on :)
Remains of oil and coolant merged overnight from the block - forming an unpleasant puddle: (Unscrew the basket, take out the coupling disc, unscrew the flywheel - it spins constantly - but we win :), unscrew the oil seal holder.
Then, unscrewing a bunch of bolts and a couple of nuts, remove the pan, then the oil trap, the oil damper.
Even pictures no longer climb - read the sequel :)