7. Well, what, what? - Capital! (4A-GE BT) # 2 - Toyota Sprinter Trueno, 1.6 L, 1998
Now you can do the pistons too - we unscrew the connecting rod caps (we put on trims of rubber tubes on the connecting rod studs - so that the threads do not damage the knee necks) and push them out of the block - we lay them out in our sequence. Take off all the rings, they are not stuck, which is good, but this does not save them from flying to the trough :)
On the other hand, we unscrew the oil pump - now the knee itself can be taken out of the block, we also lay out the covers in our sequence. We also unscrew the oil nozzles
Now the block is bare and you can wash it from all the shit that has accumulated on it - and the guys in the service when measuring - I think it's not pleasant to poke around in someone else's shit.
Next, let's take a head - before removing the ignition distributor - we mark its position relative to the head in several places (so that later we do not expose the ignition), remove the intake shaft, wipe the valve pushers, sign and put them in sequence, do not lose the washers of the head bolts,
after that I decided to "shed" my head on identifying mowing valves, for this we put the head with the camera up and fill it with kerosene up to the top and leave it overnight to see later where and through which valve the liquid is leaving.
in 24 hours, the care is small and uniform in all chambers
Then we dry the whole thing with a long head by 10, and again we put it in our sequence - do not forget about the thin foils under the springs. And in a bath for soaking in kerosene.
Regarding the washing of shit - silitbang, kerosene, thinner, white spirit, carbcliner - DOES NOT HELP! all bullshit! noisy steers, but I found it last in one store (but they need to wash the parts in small batches and quickly and with gloves - it eats hands unpleasantly)
Next, we otcheish the valves, I did it with a drill bit (copper, holding the drill in a vice) quickly, graduates hated to clean themselves.
As it turned out, the engine was capitalized - signed with a valve drill and connecting rods - but judging by the history of the car on the forum - at 125,000 now 155,000 - the shit repair most likely consisted of replacing the caps and maybe rings - and lasted quite a bit.
Then we try everything to measure in Moscow in motorintech (google it) - (the office is very good impression - they measured it quickly and for free - they said what was needed) since I decided not to do the next shit repair - and I make the car for myself and for a long time - it was decided to sharpen it for repairs. Accordingly, the order of pistons and rings of repair size, boring and honing of the block for repair (only if there are new pistons), the knee - straightening and polishing - the necks are normal, straightening the plane of the head, while the piston, rings, knee liners are in a larger size (the number on block + number on the knee + 1 - and so on for each cylinder), new connecting rod liners, I decided to "cut" my head a bit - to port the inlet and outlet under the new manifold, polish the camera, remove the steps in the channels.
Camera - sandpaper and polishing with Goya paste.
Release - combining a tuned collector with a gasket and a head with a bore of holes from 35 to 37-38 mm,
sandpaper channels and their further polishing - as I did for the first time and not knowing how much you can shoot - the result was "not evil". And if you give it a little, then you need to combine this procedure with replacing the guides, since they will definitely suffer during sawing. and this is another 12,000 rubles - but it will roll under more evil shafts.
Inlet - the work consisted of combining the chokes and the collector with an 80th sandpaper, replacing the choke mounting bolts, (after-before)
washing the damper, and replacing the blown vacuum hoses with silicone.
in the photo there are additional rubber bands from the nozzles - since one of the rubber bands was torn.
The expansion work was done with cutters for metal (a set of 5 pieces of different shapes) using a drill or a screwdriver - the latter is better.
Since the guides are normal, then the grinding of the valves, with the adjustment of the gaps - oh-oh-oh, this is another conversation ...
And even the martini is over - I drove to the store - I'll add it later :))
Monitor a flea market on www.gtextreme.ru/ - they sometimes sell there - I read once in a TA that such drosel was installed on some vase-like one.
Well, if the 38th edition, then it's quite normal!
What is your collector diameter?
There would be a head on hand for experiments (which could be cut up and down to find out the thickness of the walls) - it would be said that you can take off the skid as if you were afraid to cut it through, so there is a taper, you have to ask Grandpa Mazai about this.
He made a cylinder out of a piece of wood, and adjusted all the holes along it
Tell me, how did you measure the diameter at a depth of more than 10mm where the barbell does not reach?
And did you leave the taper or clearly cylindrical channels (exhaust)?
Polishing KS - offset! .. you can already organize a club ...))
come to me and see similar crafts ...)))
In general, the arrival was - but what proportion of the sawing of the intake can not be said - since I did everything together (release, treatment of the head, removed the gur, pipes). On the runoff shafts, it makes sense to do it as work for a couple of hours, and the arrival, although small, will be (with the world on a string ...)
Hello!
Tell me, was the parish from a gash-combination?
I only sawed a little bit at the entrance (the main goal was to remove the steps at the entrance to the head), I recently came across your photo, where the collector at the exit was sawn (the side where it presses against the head), and you removed that part, due to which the outlet window of the collectors was smaller than the gasket window. In short, I'm talking about
before: ad-cd.net/bdf5f3u-960.jpg
and after: ad-cd.net/3df5f3u-960.jpg The
question is, is it worth cutting the collector when the shafts drain?