We make a cardan for mechanics W58 from an automatic cardan - Toyota Mark II, 2.5 L, 1989
As a result of the swap of the next engine, this time 1G-GTE and the mechanics of the W58 in my Mark, there was a need to make a full-fledged cardan for mechanics, or rather a short part of the cardan. We will do it from the cardan that was on the Cross GX90, its total length is 600mm. Our task is to cut it, make an insert and weld it, as a result we get a cardan with a length of 675mm. At the same time, do this as carefully as possible in order to reduce the beating of the cardan to a minimum, although there is already experience of such alterations and problems have not arisen before.
For a note:
For mechanical boxes of brands W55,57,58, only a cardan standing with an A42__ machine is suitable, since the slotted part that is inserted into the box is the same for them, from A340 (341) the cardan will not work.
The spline part on which the flange and the outboard bearing are put on are the same for all these cardan shafts.
Cardan length (measurement as in the photo):
1. GX90 AT - 600mm.
2. GX90 MT -? Mm.
3. GX81 AT - 580mm.
4. GX81 MT - 675mm.
Whoever measures the length of the mechanical gimbal on the gx90 body, thanks a lot.
TO BE CONTINUED ... IN PROCESS
The process has advanced ...
We cut off the shank from the cardan, the shank has a centering protrusion of 10-15 mm.
Then we had to sacrifice one more gimbal, tk. no pipes of suitable diameter were found.
We just need to adjust the size and weld everything into place very carefully without displacement.
Now we clean the entire gimbal ...
And we paint, in the end that's what we got.
PS Not tested yet, I will report the result later.
1 February 2010.
The cardan has left on my car for almost three weeks, vibrations and beats are absent altogether, although this is at speeds up to 120 km / h, more weather conditions do not allow for more, but I think that there will be no problems at higher speeds, because in practice, vibrations in the range of up to 110 km / h are usually found.
That's all, in my opinion, the manufacture of the gimbal went very well ...
I agree with the comment above! =) For some reason, I can’t evaluate it either = (
Hello, as I wrote, at a speed of up to 120 km / h everything was ok, but now I am standing on the capital, so the end result will be only in the summer after running in.
Not balanced!
We did only centering on a lathe + micrometer and welded. As I already wrote, there were no problems with beats (vibrations).
people, tell me who knows, I've just found out that the short part of the universal joint on the GX81 and GX90 is the same - 675 mm, which means that the swap from the automatic transmission to the manual transmission will stand completely
675 mm normal length for 1jz + w58?
This is the length from the hanging flinz to the slots that are put in the manual transmission?
hi, is the cardan inside hollow or cast? I just want to do it a little differently, unscrew it and insert the pipe inside and weld it, what is the approximate diameter (internal)?
listen, tell me, are the bellows and the machine the same?
Read the text, I wrote there from which machine it fits, and from which not.
2. GX90 MT -? Mm. - and did not recognize this size? =)
In fact, the at gimbal should be slightly shorter than MT.
the total length is 148 cm…
I bought a primary cardan 58 cm… (RAF / GAZ 21)
And a secondary one with slots (UAZ) - 90 cm… I think I’ll use this scheme… I
will replace the elastic couplings with a spacer…
Yes, I looked at your topic, I think either to make one one-piece cardan, or to carry the suspended one further back, that is, divide the cardan by about 1/3 + 2/3. I would try one solid one, without any balancing to begin with.
… Yes there is 15 mm space for compression of the splines…)… + put the traction bars www.drive2.ru/l/471961244127985699/ so that the bridge does not move forward…). vibration is gone, but not completely ...
I sin on a short input shaft ... (
And in the spline connection there is definitely a free space for compression.
We had a situation with the Impreza, the tail of the box hung a couple of centimeters lower than it should be, and when the gas was released, the gimbal had nowhere to compress and there was a strong vibration, that is, there was no space left in the spline for compression.
Got the idea?
In your case, gas to the floor, the bridge is displaced forward by a certain distance + displacement of the motor, and if there is no space for compression in the spline, then you will have a break in the suspension, and vibration.
Hello. Well, in a nutshell, then ...
coupling-shaft-suspension-krastavina-shaft with splines-krestavina-rear axle.
all elements are normal.
input shaft: clutch-suspended 20 cm ...
Impacts on the body are from the fact that the shaft in the outboard hits the outboard clip and the sound is transmitted through the body
Hello. The video is good, but here's a bigger picture to see, the whole structure. Something I do not like this knot, coupling + suspension + crosspiece. And the vibration on the outboard coincides with the impacts on the body, which starts from what is not clear. Are the other elements correct? It feels like the power unit has more axial deflection than the outboard bearing can handle.
Hello, tell me, please, what could be the reason for the vibration of my SWAPO cardan ... when the TAPE is in the FLOOR up to 30 km / h ... after the vibration there is no. The cardan was balanced. Thanks
The pictures show a print from the oil seal, that is, it still has a margin of 1.5-2 cm for feeding into the gearbox. And as far as I remember, in normal condition, the metal boot of the cardan is entirely included in the boot of the gearbox, but there is still 1.5-2cm in the slots until it stops.
Greetings, great work. I also have to make a cardan, I wanted to know, so as not to fly over, how deep should the slotted part of the cardan go into the box?
And I had such a problem. There is a diesel 2lte on the W55. I changed the rear subframe assembly from the 100th Turik. The gearbox was 7.5 inches and became 8. I was worried about the bolt pattern on the flange of the new gearbox and on the end of my cardan, but nothing happened. However, when installing, it turned out that my gimbal is longer at the rear (5 millimeters). Therefore, in order to screw the cardan to the gearbox flange, I had to tap it there to get the bolts in place. Because of this, the gimbal moved to the box on the pendant. As a result, when driving, namely starting off and accelerating, we have a characteristic grinding in the area of ​​the suspension. It turned out that the gimbal bolts near the suspended one, they catch it during rotation, since the gap has already decreased, and under load, the gimbal is moving in the direction of travel (there is no sound when reversing). I think either to grind off the place where the bolts are rubbing, but I don't know how much how far should the gimbal go in front-back in the outboard? Suddenly this is not enough. Or take a contract cardan with a shorter rear end. But how much shorter? Maybe the main thing is that the cardan has an 8-inch gearbox?
