9. Well, what, what? - Capital! (4A-GE BT) # 4 - Toyota Sprinter Trueno, 1.6 L, 1998

Then, screwing on the separating plate, grab onto the new lightweight flywheel and screw it on with joy :),

further with the same joy I grab the basket and the TRD disc and now damn they do not fit the flywheel, it turned out that the basket with a disc from AE86 and there the flywheel is smaller

There is nothing to do - there is no new flywheel in mind, I did not want to put one disc on the stock basket, too - I stick back all the stock clutch :(

Further, "call a friend" for help in introducing the block into place, while pulling the block to the box, they did not notice how the suspension of the drive rested on its hairpin and broke it with a cheerful clang, I had to remove the block again, drill the hairpin, roll the thread, later the suspension was put on the bolt, pump and generator took their place.

Further homework with the head.
Lapping - I bought a universal paste, used a screwdriver and a piece of silicone tube as a valve holder

put the paste on the valve, insert it into place and turn it back and forth by about a third of a turn, periodically raise it so that the paste is updated and so on with each valve until "beautiful" mutual planes appear on the valve and seat.
The main thing is that the paste does not get into the guide, well, after lapping, be sure to wash everything thoroughly.
All the valves in place can be dried out, after putting new oil caps on the guide (they sit on the guide with a strong finger pressure). so we got a "dry", a 10-point head in a screwdriver for setting biscuits.

Here are all 20 valves in their places.
Next is an interesting football on "fitting" valve clearances.
To measure the thickness of the washers, I used an electronic micrometer (friends fitted it for a couple of evenings) and an ordinary rivet.

All washers are measured and recorded.
This is followed by repeated installations-removal-checking of clearances-castling of the washers until they fully comply with the standards.

First, we assemble and put in place the intake manifold with a new gasket, we put the throttle on new bolts, otherwise the old ones are quite flimsy, we connect the vacuum line, we put the nozzles with new gaskets.

Now you can safely put the head in place, a new gasket and old bolts - which must be tightened carefully and according to the scheme.
Connect all the coolant inlets to new gaskets. Connect the tubes in their places, I removed the mounting hook, so a couple of vacuum tubes were changed.

I cleaned the idle speed regulator in advance - there is a lot of black shit there.
We put the distributor with new oil seals, a pulley and a muvtu with a new gasket, screw the scythe, the starter into place, attach the generator, the mass probe tube, the ignition distributor.

Next, we put the knee star, the tensioner roller, and set the belt according to the old marks on the belt, pulleys and the star. We put the belt tensioner, knee pulley, alternator belt, alternator belt tensioner pulley.

The valve cover with new gaskets under the candle wells and under the nuts themselves - the main thing is not to overtighten - otherwise they say that they burst with a bang, we put in place the right pillow, timing holes, spark plug wires, washer reservoir (I have it from the basin - since it takes less space, plans to move it under the wing in general), the exhaust manifold and the entire route with it, an oil filter, a gas cable, we connect an IWT valve and an oil pressure sensor.

We put and connect the radiator, we attach the receiver with pipes, the air filter, a strong fuel filter from the diesel engine was experimentally inserted into the gap between the head-inlet line as a low-cleaning pipe (then I will put the same on the head-intake manifold line), connect the last terminals and ground - all the main part is behind :)