SWAPO manual transmission - Toyota Cresta, 2.5 L, 1990
For a couple of months, I had a W55 fur from the old Crown in my garage, bought along with almost all the components needed to fully replace the machine gun, which was tired of its gluttony and lethargy. There were only a few parts missing, such as the bearing in the crankshaft, the master cylinder of the coupling and the oil seal in the tail end of the box. While all this was driving to me, I dug the entire Internet in search of any information on swap. ... With the onset of cold weather, this year I already despaired of putting my purchase in the car + the absolute lack of free time (this is my job). But then suddenly I had the opportunity to go on vacation for a week and I decided - that's it, I'll bet!
It was not even scary that I have a very small garage with an uncomfortable pit, which, fortunately, was not needed. A friend of mine kindly provided me with his own, in which it was already possible to turn around.
I had 5 days in stock and only one pair of hands - all my friends at work on weekdays. But this did not stop me in my great desire to do what I wanted. I started all this at 2 pm and in one person until 9 pm I took off the machine gun and everything else. The whole next day was spent installing the mechanics. Everything was done alone, the friend-owner of the garage arrived only at 4 am, when almost everything was already standing and an assistant was needed to pump the link. As a result, in the evening I already went. 8)
Now the process itself:
First, remove the parking brake and replace it with the clutch pedal. I have it from the same Crown and did not quite fit me - it turned out that the cylinder rod was too short and I had to make a new longer fork, which is screwed onto the rod. The brake pedal remained intact, although many cut it on the left side so as not to interfere, but I have not done this yet and do not feel any inconvenience - the distance between the pedals is a couple of centimeters. I did all this in a few more days and went with the third pedal just like that :).
Next, remove the automatic transmission selector, having previously disconnected it from the traction on the box.
We also disconnect the cable that goes from the damper to the box.
We remove the muffler so as not to interfere. It is generally necessary to remove the part that is bolted to the collector, but I categorically refused to unscrew it, adding some difficulties later. I unscrewed it starting from the catalyst.
Next, remove the front of the gimbal. For a swap we need a cardan from a "mechanical" car, since the automatic one is shorter. Drain the fluid from the box. Further, according to the plan, the pipes going to the radiator - they turned out badly. They did not want to unscrew, they had to unscrew them in all places from the engine and gearbox and pull them out gradually. As a result, they got a kick-ass. And to hell with them.
We unscrew all the candles and through the window unscrew the bolts that secure the bagel to the flywheel, gradually turning the crankshaft by the nut on the pulley in front of the engine.
We unscrew the lower bolts of the bell and put boards under the machine, jack it up and remove the rear support. Under its own weight, it tilts and now there is access to the upper bolts.
To get to them we need such a construction
Everything, now nothing holds him. By the way, the connectors and the speedometer cable must also be disconnected. In the connectors, you need to short-circuit the necessary contacts so that the brain thinks that neutral or R. is turned on. We take out the donut.
I will not tell you how I later removed the machine from the boards, but it was very difficult to do!
And here are the "weapons" on the ground
Removing the flywheel
The thick washer behind the flywheel is not needed for the bellows.
We put the bearing of the input shaft of the box in the crankshaft.
Instead of the casing, which is behind the flywheel with a window, we put the same one without it.
We put a "mechanical" flywheel.
We put the clutch basket. Here I had a question - how to center the driven disc, so that then the shaft would fall into it and the whole village fell into place. According to the ABC book, you need a special tool (((. A good eye gauge came in handy, which replaced this special tool quite well. In short, I pulled the basket very slightly so that I could move the disc. As a result, it turned out to be centered by eye! Next, tighten the basket evenly.
Here another sekas began! Having hoisted the box on the boards, I began to substitute the bars under it, and also jacked up the front of the car in order to be able to set the box to the engine level. Making sure that the shaft of the crab got where it was needed and did not bend the petals of the basket, I began to move the box towards the engine and in the end it became. Then he pulled in the lower bell bolts. The rest is in reverse order.
He poured oil through the wings and screwed on the lever. The latter turned out to be very long, but chrome plated (later I shortened it). It looked like this
We connect the clutch pipe and fill in the brake fluid reservoir. We pump the clutch and adjust the pedal.
And that's it! She immediately went))) It became noisy pipets-the hole in the body is closed only by a pair of rubber bands and therefore all the sounds climb into the cabin - the exhaust (I still have a can of bubbling) the howling of the box, but after the machine, such a drive-acceleration is completely different! I tried to start on a normal one - mdaaa, this is not the same automatic Cross, which made old Basins with difficulty, and with new ones did not even try to call in. Already drove on the highway - the box is of course short for her and the consumption increased, it turned out 13-14 liters per 100 km (on the machine it was 8-10), although I was driving gasoline without regretting))) I was surprised that between the 4th and 5th gear ratios are very close if you spin well on the 3rd, then you can freely switch immediately to the 5th
Recently made a short lever - shortened somewhere in 2 times - now it is!
It looks like this now
The corrugation is still from 9ki, but there is already a leather case, I think how to put it on.
The score is the highest! BUT you dear do not dishonor Kristinka that she is afraid to run in with new Tazy!
You, my dear car, are slightly newer than mine and your automatic machine is most likely in better condition than my 20-year-old was, but from where I’m sure your Kristinka will merge some Priore all because of the same machine!
in the course!))))) I did it myself today on the cross to my friend 1G-GTE set, the upper bolts are an ass! But the experience has increased
the funny thing is, temporarily, too, I stuck a Taz cover for myself. I have to sew a normal one
box with coupling 5p. cardan 1.5, the main cylinder of the coupling 2.5 and I don't remember the little things
spare parts in what price got up, at least approximately? I also have Christina 1g, I want fur))
consumption slightly decreased in the city, but increased along the highway due to the fact that 100 km / h are the same 3000
What about fuel consumption now? I read that without replacing the gearbox from manual transmission at 100 km / h, 3000 rpm gives ...
In addition to the sculptor, there is also a mechanic, Aboldet! ​​If you need help, well, bring it there, give it ...))) call if not at work, then I will help without any problems at the same time master class)))))
At 17, I also put a box on a penny myself 8) But for a Japanese geisha, not everyone will take a mechanic, not an ordinary amateur! This will give an ist fantastish!
Hi. I'm now putting the manual transmission, and what contacts should I bridge so that the car thinks that it is in neutral, I don't know ... could you tell me how you solved this problem?
on his when he put the fur, in one to remove the automatic transmission was tortured PPC! the fur is much easier to remove.
Hmm. with us (markovodov) the opposite is true - with fur it is more fun on the rear wheel drive!
The first time I read about the transition from a machine gun to mechanics, usually everyone tends to the opposite. or just change the motor to a more powerful one, and then the box =) But this is not a reproach, I just have not seen this before!
Finally my Marchek is on the move. Thanks to everyone who posted posts on mechanics and swap. In general, I welded a cardan of two halves. The back part was taken from 1GGTE - It is more massive than usual.
For the front end, I took both driveshafts from the Cresta LX80 2LT mechanics. They shoot at the splines. Boxes W55. Everything worked out neatly. No beating. If there are vibrations, there are more of them from other things =)