Brakes - Toyota Corolla, 1.8 L, 2003
Due to the fact that the car accelerates well in principle… standard brakes do not always cope! It is understandable, the car is civilian use, but this fact does not suit ...
Separately, we can say "thanks" to Toyota engineers who managed to put the drum brakes back!
As a result, when driving aggressively, especially on the highway, the brakes overheat quickly and begin to "float" ...
Replacing the brake fluid as well as the civilian series brake pads (Kashiyama) slightly improved the situation =)
Brake discs as they wear out, and it is already there, lose their properties in terms of thermal "grip", so the discs must be replaced sooner or later.
the market offers me native brake discs at a price of 3500 per set! And also analogues, of which I like Brembo =)
Additional Information:
Brake disc type: internally ventilated
Thickness: 25 mm
Diameter: 255 mm
Number of holes: 4 pcs
Minimum thickness: 23 mm
Width: 27 cm
Height: 27 cm
Length: 10 cm
Weight: 5.1 kg
he's kind of simple! Part 09.9798.10
of course I would like something like this ... =) but expensive
Next, we go - the most budgetary solution to increase the operating temperature is to put "hot" pads ...
and then I stumbled upon the existence of this ...
Company Profile:
Morse Automotive Corporation is the largest independent manufacturer of brake pads and brake discs in the United States.
Ceramic Series
Deformed ceramic brake pads for dust-free braking and quiet performance
100% All-in-one bonding method
Rounded edges and grooves where needed
Original style gaskets for maximum vibration and noise isolation
Sprayed back of pad for protection.
Who used it ?! And what can you say about ceramics in general ?!
And there are also expensive JDM pads:
B-SPEC BRAKE PADS
Material: asbestos-free
Maximum operating temperature: 500 ° C
Coefficient of friction: 0.32 - 0.45 µ
The cost of a set of four pads per axle is:
5900 * rubles for the front axle
* rotor operating temperature -450 ...
* coefficient of friction: 0.35-0.45
* material: ... asbestos
Price about 4.500
And also there is such an option: replacing the rear drum with disk from 2ZZ machines / hemorno may be
These are the pies! Who thinks what
The pottery will erase the disc quickly! So do you think you need it or not? =)
Then take discs and pads in 10t.r you will keep within =)
Brembos cost 2500, but it's not clear yet for a couple or for one ...
People on 2zz where there are discs in front and behind are also not happy ... so for the price / result the pads will be better!
How much do Brembo cost? if the difference is not significant, then it is worth putting them, anyway it is better to runoff =) By the blocks xs, I think you can take any from the presented ones (depending on which budget) and you do not go around the ring: D Put disk on the back, the simplest option on mine glance, but I don't know if this will result in the desired result (tsuko =))! The difference is strongly felt on the basins!
Real-men
Brembo kit costs about 50,000 as far as I know
yes, I don’t need a sport kit =) the car is not the right one ... I’ll improve the stock
honestly he himself does not know, but he knows less ...
www.drive2.ru/cars/nissan...ic/cedric_y33/shadrin067/
yakov
Real-men are definitely not for our cars! 100% perforated and possibly with brakes ...
but stupidly discs for Corolla will not cost so much ...
I'm thinking if you change the disk, you can get confused and increase its diameter + put more brakes ... I heard that they put on skylik and it turns out very well, and on a budget
Can be more?! How do they do it? Is the hub being changed? I really want new brakes!
Real-men are definitely not for our cars! 100% perforated and possibly with brakes ...
but stupidly discs for Corolla will not cost so much ...
I'm thinking if you change the disk, you can get confused and increase its diameter + put more brakes ... I heard that they put on skylik and it turns out very well, and on a budget
aka-mazai
tests are not true ... just stumbled upon by chance!
Was the disc wearing out much faster ?! And in terms of efficiency, how ?!
I have many friends who say that on the European assembly of Japanese cars the disk wears out very quickly, why is it so bad? weak metal or very "hard" pads is another question :)
and so I think if the disc is worn out then take such Brembo and ceramic pads, it should be enough for the ass :)
I have enough BUT when there are 3-4 people in the car and fast driving around the city, it is very strongly felt that the brakes are weak :(
It depends on what you compare it to. If with a drain, then of course the return is better from them! Itself did not go current according to the words I can judge. I have pads on the Mazda and they are solid (front axle)! The disc is erased. And what kind of pads the Japanese put xs ... On the back, everything is different. I have already changed the shoes myself, and the disk is like new =)
PS I drive relatively calmly and have never overheated them (I will have to try in the summer;) how they will see themselves)
By the way, there is still an option to change the caliper to a larger radius and 2 or 4 piston. An acquaintance on teapots 400 strong has done this! Discs and calipers from the supra are. He somehow gave me a ride, and he stops rooted to the spot and with a pretty high speed. That is not very familiar after Mazda.
tests are not true ... just stumbled upon by chance!
Was the disc wearing out much faster ?! And in terms of efficiency, how ?!
Well xs ... how many friends put ceramics (though on the basins) say that the disc wears out faster ... But maybe this is a feature of the manufacturer. And maybe VERY hard metal pads are given in the test?
What's better ? Ceramic or metal brake pads?
For a more complete picture of the pads market - ceramic and metal compounds, here are the results of tests carried out by our supplier - manufacturer of brake components Power Stop (USA).
There are many rumors nowadays that ceramic brake pads cause excessive wear on brake discs and cannot withstand high heating temperatures. We tested 10 different metal and ceramic brake pads to compare wear and material performance. For the test, we took brake pads from the following manufacturers: Hawk, Performance Friction, Raybestos, Power Stop, EBC, Akebono, Morse, and several brands from China.
We selected 5 ceramic brake pads and 5 metal ones. All test data were recorded using ISO test protocol NWI 2560. The pads were tested on the front axle brake discs of a Chevrolet Tahoe. The test was conducted by Link Testing in Detroit.
What exactly was the test? This is an aggressive test, the pads are heated to over 1200 degrees Fahrenheit (approximately 650 degrees Celsius) and tested in 3 types of braking: high speed high speed, cyclic braking and extreme braking (pedal to the floor).
One of the test brake pads, belonging to a very famous brand, was withdrawn from the test because it was completely worn out before the test was completed. Therefore, further we had to compare only 4 ceramic pads and 5 metal ones.
We measured and recorded the following indicators:
- Wear of brake discs for a full test cycle;
- Wear of pads for a full test cycle,
- Coefficient of friction (mu) when braking from 100 km / h ("cold" brakes);
- Coefficient of friction (mu) at cyclic braking 15 consecutive stops without cooling;
- Coefficient of friction (mu) when braking over 1100 degrees Fahrenheit (approximately 600 degrees Celsius) - ("hot" brakes);
- Speed ​​sensitivity coefficient - percentage change in friction coefficient mu from 160 km / h to 80 km / h;
- Coefficient of sensitivity of pressure on the pedal before wear - percentage change in the coefficient of friction;
- The coefficient of sensitivity of the pressure on the pedal after wear is the percentage change in the coefficient of friction.
So, in order to save the reader from complex numbers and relationships, we decided to summarize the results of the tests and present them in the form of conclusions.
Do ceramic pads harm the brake disc?
Friction works mainly with two mechanisms: 1) hard friction and 2) sticky friction. Severe friction will wear the pad and / or disc through the cutting action. The process of sticky friction is as follows: when the surface of the pad is on the disc, the friction force is obtained due to the destruction of all chemical bonds of the surface layer of the pad. Abrasive pads will wear the brake disc more (usually less than .002 ") and reduce the mass of the brake disc. Sticky friction pads can actually increase the mass of the brake disc. At higher temperatures, sticky friction is the primary method of generating frictional force. Do ceramic pads really harm the brake disc? disk?
In analyzing the test results, we found no evidence that ceramic pads perform poorly on brake discs. Moreover, tests have shown much more enviable results compared to organic. It also became clear that some metal pads are stiffer than ceramic pads. The most "gentle" for the discs were ceramic brake pads Akebono and metal ones - Power Stop and Performance Friction.
Did the metal pads do their job better than the ceramic ones?
Under "cold" conditions, there is practically no difference in the coefficient of friction and its stability in comparison with metal and ceramic pads. To be fair, it's worth noting that when the temperature reaches 1000 ° F / 538 ° C. metal brake pads do not compromise their performance. At the same time, ceramics begins a downward path.
So what's the difference?
Ceramic: excellent pads for aggressive riding, mountain streamers. Demonstrate braking stability up to 550 ° С, low noise and waste dust levels. And, of course, your brake discs will last longer when paired with ceramic pads.
The advantage of metal brake pads is improved performance at high temperatures. They perfectly keep overheating, have high wear resistance. The abrasiveness of the metal increases the coefficient of friction. But at the same time, all the above advantages of metal pads turn into one big drawback: they will not spare your brake discs.
So, the choice is up to the buyer.
I think that discs can be put back on, and on the front of a larger diameter with other machines, naturally, and pads. here tady would be a good idea) it is possible that the muzzle was overloading strongly :)) where to find 2zz on the street for parsing%))))
I understood everything ... those that you have are just discs, but of high quality.
opened tsport in existential ... they are offered zimmerman sport for 6000 disc ...
aka-mazai
It says about the holes ... that is, they are perforated ?!
add a temka for yourself ... maybe the photos remained ...
and I took it by the way without perforation
aka-mazai
It says about the holes ... that is, they are perforated ?!
add a temka for yourself ... maybe the photos remained ...
In the spring I will tint the caliper - so I'll take a picture
oh, the drain smokes on the sidelines) these are overheating, but I don't remember if I overheated them)))
There were only boxes)))) and disks on the car. and Temko is somehow reluctant to write about disks, they are already there)
Iyrec
590.2575.00 is the disc code.
www.exist.ru/price.aspx?p...43512-02070&caid=31&sr=15 and these are all disks
It says about the holes ... that is, they are perforated ?!
add a temka for yourself ... maybe the photos remained ...
590.2575.00 is the disc code.
www.exist.ru/price.aspx?p...43512-02070&caid=31&sr=15 and these are all disks
aka-mazai
and how does it feel ?! Otto I can get it =) I
don't respect perforation, I respect notches!
Feels great. The native Toyotovskys are inferior in all respects. Bral in the Exist.
www.drive2.ru/cars/mazda/...rnal/4062246863888248624/ here look mazdavod also put OTTO =)
and how does it feel ?! Otto I can get it =) I
don't respect perforation, I respect notches!
And I chose Otto Zimerman for myself. I chose between Brembos and these. The choice fell in the direction of Otto, maybe. on the test they are more successful. I also wanted perforated, but the amount is frightening.
I bought myself a set of Rotor discs with notches and perforations, ceramic pads (I go with some addition of ceramics), hoses and slurry. But I haven't put it yet. People drive, they say they slow down better, I have not heard from anyone about fast wear.
According to the experience of Mazdovodov, there are some Chinese Brembos and they slow down worse than the drain. Check out the Brembovsky sportsline, only they are perforated.
Alternatively, I would look for Ottozimerman, Stoptech, DBA, EBC ...
An exhaustive and informative answer ... left for reflection =)
I like that about the rear and did not think! I have a set of new kashiyam
The main thing is not to screw up with friction coefficients, otherwise the ABS will go nuts from such a neighborhood (if the front is high, then it will behave unpredictably on slippery roads, if the backside will click at any sharp braking) change both axles at once. So look for the type found in rear shoe counterparts.
Summary: Metallized ones are suitable for driving mode "as if they were stung to one place", that is, for circular weekends just right, ceramics, more for sprint races (ala dzhimkana) or in the city, since their operating mode is softer. Wear… here look at the coefficient of friction, the higher it is, the softer the friction clutch and will grind faster, while the brake rotor wears out less.
! Returning to the ABS issue, this system is designed to work with civilian linings, and they are closer to solid ones in terms of their characteristics!
There are no pictures, but this act was performed on the drum brakes of "Samara". Four 5mm holes! This method was used by American racers at a time when disc brakes on the rear axle were something from the realm of science fiction ... (^_^)
Abe
By the way, in pursuit of the drums, you can make several holes in them
(dia. 4 mm), exactly in the middle of the friction track - this will help improve the resistance to overheating!
and the pictures are as it is ?!
You know ... I didn’t think about it, but it didn’t seem like it (the dirt) was getting there. When reopening, everything was more or less clean (not counting the block dust)
By the way, in pursuit of the drums, you can make several holes in them
(dia. 4 mm), exactly in the middle of the friction track - this will help improve the resistance to overheating!
I'm not a music lover, but I love a good sound =) Like min. I want to change the speakers, otherwise I can't hear my relatives because of the sub. And accordingly Shumka front doors, and later on the rear =)
fy =) I am not sick of music, thank God ... on the track I generally listen to the FM modulator =) because mp3 does not support
Don't tell me ... We urgently need to switch to music. Because by the summer I want to change it =)
By the way, if you find discs with a larger diameter, then they will not cost more than new pads (of course, used)
I read about brakes and caught fire with them myself =) Now I'm racking my head where to collect some money =)
… The budget is limited! There is almost no budget ... I don’t even think about such a coordinating innovation! There are very positive reviews from just setting the pads ...
The easiest way is to check). I myself use Kashiyama pads and NipParts discs, but it doesn't matter for me. There is a problem in the calipers + the size of the pads and disc. The most sure thing is to change a larger diameter thread from someone with a hub of 4 to 100. =)
www.exist.ru/price.aspx?p...04465-13050&caid=31&sr=15
There's some Morze at the end. It seems inexpensive ...
Another contender
Fitting Position: Front Axle,
Brake Disc Type: Internally Ventilated,
Outer Diameter: 255 mm,
Thickness: 25 mm,
min. thickness: 23 mm,
height: 49.3 mm,
hole pattern / number: 6/4,
chamfer Ø 1: 100 mm,
hub hole Ø: 55 mm,
Yes, for this sometimes I want to spit at Toyota engineers… brakes and suspension from poltorashka!
Yes. They are the most… under 14 discs = (
this is a family car, but in my heart I sometimes want to light it up… it accelerates well but does not slow down very much!
255 mm is this as I understand the front discs? Tin ... I have more rear. it is clear why they overheat ...
That's exactly what is the most reasonable option. Many times cheaper than taking mega discs with mega pads.
FROM PX7 it's absolutely cool ... =) I don't need a powerful whale. Just so that there is no overheating
I improved my stock, put two-piston from Levin. According to people, they do not overheat on my car even on the ring.
Yours can be confused with the four-piston calipers from the RX-7. On disassembly 2500 each. Pick up healthy discs (if you have horse rollers, they will fit for my dear), and then it's the turner and the milling machine operator. Where to order spacers and adapters, I will tell you.
If you have any questions, write to the meeting room.
strange, I thought that 180 bald Corolla had discs in a circle. At least Alex was considered in the market - there were no drums ...