Installation of DRL Volkswagen Caddy
Had a chance today to play with the Caddick.
Installed daytime running lights in the bumper.
From the factory, near the front PTF has slits that are perfect for DRL. The size they are 160*20mm, and ideally there would be a steel tube company Phillips that fit there like a glove, though the price is not that bite, she just kills — 2600 UAH(
For maximum proximity to the sizes of the holes, picked up the lights of the Falcon company.
They are size 180*20mm, in comparison with the Philips, you need to cut 2cm plastic.
After trimming, the lamp rises like a glove.
Fastened it on the hot melt adhesive, as mount the factory DRL is not suitable.
The control unit goes three wires, Red, Yellow, and Black.
Red connects to the wire on which there is a plus when the engine is started, Yellow for the middle light, or clearance, Black to ground, respectively.
To prolong the life of the LEDs and protect them from power surges in the vehicle electrical system, rekomenduju also supply a separate voltage regulator. The good brothers from China rivet their thousands and buy it will not be difficult. Babble if anyone it is better to write something like Module LM2596 voltage reduction))
Well, photos of the finished result))
Yuran3324
OPPA! We electrician appeared! )))
Jura, does not appear, he was with us and every day progresses)))
"do not order" is a very diplomatic said. Usually, it is completely absent
primerchik "kitaiskogo" approach to cooling LEDs:
fotkidepo.ru/?id=photo:953936
short circuit
since I put the handkerchief stabilizer, it was necessary to modify the current regulator. And power the LEDs directly.
and again remained not disclosed the topic of Boobs, ugh, BL@, the subject of the cooling of the LEDs. Judging by the photos of the lights, signified not as a class. Accordingly, no stabilizers here then it will help
constantly caught the eye of cars with these DRL and usually part of the led is not lit. Then he got the idea that cooling is not in order.
focusnik06
unfortunately most don't understand that LEDs need stabity current.
Please tell me why it is necessary stabity current? under what conditions on them begins to grow current which as I understand it kills them. You can just the link, very interesting to me. thank you.
at least limit that does not exceed the passport. Well cool, if the power is noticeable.
Barely-burning, flashing, or completely dead, the led DRL lights — a common phenomenon
short circuit
since I put the handkerchief stabilizer, it was necessary to modify the current regulator. And power the LEDs directly.
and again remained not disclosed the topic of Boobs, ugh, BL@, the subject of the cooling of the LEDs. Judging by the photos of the lights, signified not as a class. Accordingly, no stabilizers here then it will help
unfortunately most don't understand that LEDs need stabity current.
short circuit
the lamp housing does not understand? has not been opened, as there made?
well, cooling I imagine is pretty standard: within the housing, the LEDs would have if in mind, set on the radiator. So he took the heat even through the walls of the lantern. Often, in such lamps the DRL LEDs are stupidly soldered to the motherboard. Without any cooling. And LEDs powerful enough for 0,5-1-2W. So they die, rescales red.
on the back side of the lamp are clearly visible radiators...
short circuit
the lamp housing does not understand? has not been opened, as there made?
well, cooling I imagine is pretty standard: within the housing, the LEDs would have if in mind, set on the radiator. So he took the heat even through the walls of the lantern. Often, in such lamps the DRL LEDs are stupidly soldered to the motherboard. Without any cooling. And LEDs powerful enough for 0,5-1-2W. So they die, rescales red.
No there is no heat sink(( just soldered to the motherboard diodes and on the Sabbath! But even despite this I have long enough to Shine and no problems!
Case, except glass, are made of some alloy, not like silumin, and on the back wall there is something on the similarity of the radiator. I want to believe that it performs its function.
the lamp housing does not understand? has not been opened, as there made?
well, cooling I imagine is pretty standard: within the housing, the LEDs would have if in mind, set on the radiator. So he took the heat even through the walls of the lantern. Often, in such lamps the DRL LEDs are stupidly soldered to the motherboard. Without any cooling. And LEDs powerful enough for 0,5-1-2W. So they die, rescales red.
how do you imagine then the realization of khadine ?
holes chtoli under the radiator answerlet and fasten them ?
since I put the handkerchief stabilizer, it was necessary to modify the current regulator. And power the LEDs directly.
and again remained not disclosed the topic of Boobs, ugh, BL@, the subject of the cooling of the LEDs. Judging by the photos of the lights, signified not as a class. Accordingly, no stabilizers here then it will help
I do not understand why there is a voltage regulator. Judging by the fact that there is primogenial/off (a third wire), there is a driver. Ie stab. voltage is there and what is not needed.
Zvchem why — boards for the fence a lot.
If you mean the Euro light, the owner of such option does not suit.
Just season the DRL, so that all thebest! Get the rules, well, about fixing know already =)
and this module just veracity in the diode marker lamps to jumps In/And the diodes do not burn out
On the alternator there is connector.
It has two wires.
One of them, plus appears upon startup.
You can check this with a multimeter.
Specifically what is not remember how long ago it was.
For example, did this recently Octavia tour, then there was middle