How to raise the vehicle voltage? (updated!)
Regardless of consumers included in the vehicle generator according to the instructions, needs to generate a voltage in the range of 13.5-14.5 volts. The battery is not allowed in mode undercharge (less than 13.5 volts) and overcharging (more than 14.5), so you need from time to time to check vehicle voltage, if you have a car there is no indicator in the cabin, which shows what the voltage in the battery of the car. In the case of an undercharge (less than 13.5 volts), the battery resource will be very small.
So, we all know that we should follow not only the on-Board voltage and density of electrolyte in the battery. Here is a small table in the help, where you can see how the voltage and density of electrolyte, it is possible to determine the degree of discharge or charge.
Charge level the Degree of discharge, the electrolyte Density G/cm3 Voltage on the battery
100% 0% 1,28 12,7
80% 20% 12,5 1,245
60% 40% 1,21 12,3
40% 60% 12,1 1,175
20% 80% 1,14 11,9
0% 100% 1,10 11,7
these measurements were carried out at a temperature of 20-25 C*
cell density should not differ from each other +-0.02-0.03
the voltage must be measured checked by multimeter.
Well, let's say, not so deadly, but after driving for about 15-20 minutes with headlights and heater, the voltage fell as much as 12.8 to naturally what kind of charge the battery could be involved...when normal charging the battery must be at a voltage of 13.9 volts and above. But after the summer so it all fell to 12.3 volts and a density of 1.2 Here, here, and it was agreed that it is necessary to raise the voltage by inserting a diode in the circuit of the voltage regulator...
The diode is suitable for almost any with voltage on it to 20V and a current of at least 5A
I would take a diode, 10A, he is in almost every radio shack, or market.
Pripisivaem to the diode leads and wire ends and hide the whole structure in an empty case from the old or faulty relay, if desired, and technical ability all this can be hidden inside the housing of the generator .
All collected and made measurements, I got in the end...
Load Voltage to the Voltage after
no load 14.2 14.45
+dimensions 13.8 14.45
+PTF 13.7 14.4
+middle 13.6 14.35
+heater 13.5 14.3
+Fan 13.4 14.2
far 13.2 14.1
+heating 13.1 14.0
+heater max 12.9 13.95
Example dates from the Lada Kalina, the generator is serviceable (checked voltage regulator, diodes, brushes, the presence of inter-turn short and cliffs!). At such voltages, the generator battery does not live long on this machine.
So RN works on my machine, China Bosch.
UPD №1
If it does not help the diode that is another solution is to disconnect the brushes from the regular controller and connect them to external. As an external you can use a PH of 2101-06. The advantage of it is a complete maintainability, and the ability to customize the required voltage well, and the price is not great. The deficiency will have trouble with its disassembly.
The essence of refinement that would by selection of the resistance of the divider resistors R1, R2 to achieve the triggering voltage of 14,2 — 14,4 V.
In place of the old resistor R1 is necessary to install a new one, the resistance should be as close to 700 Ohms. Alternatively, you can solder a small variable resistor at 1K and already on the machine to find the right voltage
This option is of course more to savvy in electronics lovers, but it is always possible to find at the nearest station I do not think that will rip off for expensive rework.
UPD №2
You can purchase ready-made external PH. But only when it is necessary to clarify if it is suitable specifically for your model of generator.
Finalization of the voltage regulator 611.3702-05
foma144
Made myself 2 pieces, wanted to establish in the WHA, two friends go for a year. But I termokimik all soldered with no body.
I have nine in kimbriki just on weight 2 times off diodes, threw him at all. About the body from unacceptable thought, but it would be possible to tie next to Gena!
Well, everyone has their can be constructs, but this is my example solution. If you wish, and inside the genes to fit. Added screen with viburnum, it's just hard.
Made myself 2 pieces, wanted to establish in the WHA, two friends go for a year. But I termokimik all soldered with no body.
And not enough? When turning the lights on and the stove turns out to 13.6, I think a little bit to add...
qwinta
Gene gives more 14.1, but mostly 13.8... Maybe even a little boost... I Have the generator connected connector with two wires, one light bulb, the second, as I understand it, arousal. If I'm right, the excitement and need to put diode?
So it is normal you have a gene gives why more?
Yes broken wire that goes to the voltage regulator from the leads of the excitation control with the correct polarity of the diode. This revision has the value of the gene if in good condition!
Gene gives more 14.1, but mostly 13.8... Maybe even a little boost... I Have the generator connected connector with two wires, one light bulb, the second, as I understand it, arousal. If I'm right, the excitement and need to put diode?
if there is a desire it is possible to build a circuit that will do this itself, through the relay contacts to short the diode when it is necessary and break it.
al5331
Well ka show this schematically!
alexey-diagnost below right scheme painted.
It is necessary to itself such a scheme is bungled, and instead of the regular ones at 35A works 47th.
For more correct work of Your proposed scheme, the diode then it should be removed altogether from the scheme.
alternatively, you can simply connect in parallel with the diode toggle switch if you wish. when the diode is not needed lock it shorted the toggle switch and all.
And if you insert in the gap switch (and display in the cabin), the diode can be enabled as needed, in the "light" modes, then the gene will work in a regular manner.
that's) more than the values of the generator still will not be able to give, the only thing is that these values, it will give at low speed and not to big on standard features. in fact, this idea with the diode is the same as the three-level relay controller, only in this case force is set by the diode the voltage level
Don't forget when selecting a diode, pay attention to the figure as Uд (the voltage drop across the diode). It is from this indicator will depend on how much your generator will issue to the network. It's a small sense of no diode, it will be too big - the generator will be hard to give the network because it (the alternator is not rubber) and a lot of you know bad to boil the battery from overcharging will be. Here we have the mind to approach.
survive all true that the full n...n true. I will continue to write on this topic and then banned the account.
alexey-diagnost
Okay, but I thought at least for the Chinese, this is no problem, wrong! Write if something is unclear it will be very interesting, the Chinese do too, Bo no one in town dealers not everyone fled because of the situation in the city.
how you there generally live?.. Clients who come to Lugansk/Donetsk, saying that there is a complete n...n
Sorry bro, prof habit with clients is always on you unless he wants to go to you, just in the showroom for 4 years and it worked so not easy to pass.
alexey-diagnost
Okay, but I thought at least for the Chinese, this is no problem, wrong! Write if something is unclear it will be very interesting, the Chinese do too, Bo no one in town dealers not everyone fled because of the situation in the city.
by the way I am 33 years old so we're the same age
listen to why you (and so we respect each other, otherwise not communicate among themselves), I think that odnomestniy and, in fact, brothers in constructions with internal combustion engines are supposed to be for you. I'm sorry if offended you with my will obrusheniem for YOU
Okay, but I thought at least for the Chinese, this is no problem, wrong! Write if something is unclear it will be very interesting, the Chinese do too, Bo no one in town dealers not everyone fled because of the situation in the city.
native gene ditched me akum, + a bunch of fuses, but gene finitenesses himself to blame, I saw that the headlights brighter then tuskneet, and then another, and rotten eggs stink. Scrushy gene was zvizdets the regulator, but when scribal, slightly touched the rotor winding, so ended the native gene. And the donor gene from diz. Patty I do not understand, just hooked. If chestno, I thought that on diesel put powerful genes, but not so. so glad this article might help, but the money for last gen nope, Hu-e the crisis, sabaki.
that Yes, the changed gene as the mother came zvizdets, from which new gene — XS, but from what diesel. the voltage onboard network of the PNA idle and 13.3, at incl. Farah — 13,0, simply no, Akuma sits for 2 months, and do not wish to twist Until Thu podsednik extra + wire cross-section more, the voltage increased by 0.2 V, well, at least Akuma has been kept, but we must do something.
folk don't know, but that the management of the field circuit wire — this is it.
I really kreplenii PH there are differences in the genes. but you can redo it.
PWO
Tried on the gene of focus to implement the diode in the gap of the armature. Damn, all the excitement there!
Then wire + PP wire through a separate relay on the + of the battery.
You slay me... Go to sleep... ))))
PS: get away from your generator))) do not bother technique to work
So I say that, gene and wiring ideally, but at 13.5 little for working. and he only 30-40% charged. And "we" all of a gene battery, and the Board voltage you want 14.5 ))) because at a voltage of 14.5 volts battery practically ceases to take a charge (current) and boils!
"Load 13.5. Valeo! 13,5 disastrous enough for discharge!" ? If XX is not bad. On some new cars the brains in the pair give the PH from 13.0 V. I on your place strongly would not worry if 13.5 V comes to battery. I certainly don't keep statistics, but daily work with the generators I think 13.5 volts minimum battery Bank under load
All in perfect condition. cons pros 16 KG from D0 32 squares, terminals-lugs, tinned . Voltage Board network in BC ottariano by a normal tester. Of glasses on the motor and in all holes 16 kg for poking into. Subsidence no falls. Gene to give what it spelled out. 13.5 under load. Valeo! 13,5 disastrous enough for the battery! If you are not lazy browse through my RC and understand that I am not an Amateur in the measurement of the voltage...
Was measured on a gene on the Battery or in the salon Pribluda for$ 3 ?
If with Battery all good, then see the power wiring or minus from the engine to the body, minus the body on the battery plus with the genes on the battery. Cleaning the terminals.
The second option — removing genes and disassembly/wiring continuity test and its components. Relay controller, axle, stator, brushes, header, anchor and cleaning again, only genes with contacts. Gene defectivity not difficult
SoundSet
and here in the break anchor?.. There were a few Hyundai/Kia with a low charge in the XX under load. The problem was in different places — stator, power +, relays, etc... one left never overcame it ( on the machine 700-750 rpm, and need the gene to rules 800-850 rpm)
I idle about 820-830. In traffic with the a / C is not pulling to the norm of 12.7 max.
Yes it is, I was experimenting ))) to anchor the diode added thinking that if it is less than his excitement to go more voltage...
and where there is a gap of the armature is a diode? the diode is placed in the gap control circuit, switching transistors.
PWO
Tried on the gene of focus to implement the diode in the gap of the armature. Damn, all the excitement there!
and here in the break anchor?.. There were a few Hyundai/Kia with a low charge in the XX under load. The problem was in different places — stator, power +, relays, etc... one left never overcame it ( on the machine 700-750 rpm, and need the gene to rules 800-850 rpm)
SoundSet
Alternatively, where the contacts are pressed and are you sure that you need to break this chain of diode — put a thin insulator between them, and the diode is cut in debtors ' scheme round Klemme.
In General, I like this colosing not welcome. To do a gene or to look for the problem on Board
This problem is built into the design of schemes with built-in regulator.
Built-in regulator measures the voltage at the alternator and support it on the alternator, not the battery.
Move the control point on the battery + and be happy.
SoundSet
Alternatively, where the contacts are pressed and are you sure that you need to break this chain of diode — put a thin insulator between them, and the diode is cut in debtors ' scheme round Klemme.
In General, I like this colosing not welcome. To do a gene or to look for the problem on Board
Raminosoa, two pluses for 16 mm2.
I genych works by the book. On a cold 14.5 volts. warmed podkapotka gene 13.7 V (temperature compensation reduces) gives as on the passport! But, this is not enough BATT a maximum 50% charged...
PWO
There is not any outgoing wires. All the conclusions of the regulator on the clamp screws made! Where the hell knows...
Alternatively, where the contacts are pressed and are you sure that you need to break this chain of diode — put a thin insulator between them, and the diode is cut in debtors ' scheme round Klemme.
In General, I like this colosing not welcome. To do a gene or to look for the problem on Board
alexey-diagnost
there leaves 3 wires from the genes of a powerful 100A, 20A, red, blue-black on the light bulb connection options at the top of the screen. 1 option is to break the red to the diode Ds. Option 2 is in the gap before R2.
Alex, added topic www.drive2.ru/l/7629865/?...j8sMwYpGwJF6QFZBZ7qnltZH8 For earlier thanks for the help!
Red 20 Amp is not clear?! Where is it I need to break in the installation of the genes! From the genes is only a plus. and two thin (0.75 max) wire to the diode excitation! Now I will create a thread discussing that )))
there leaves 3 wires from the genes of a powerful 100A, 20A, red, blue-black on the light bulb connection options at the top of the screen. 1 option is to break the red to the diode Ds. Option 2 is in the gap before R2.
Don't even know what denomination to decide, probably 2nd. because I have ex. 100 amps. (not 125 as in the first)
there are diagrams on the focus and both have thrown in at the top now tell me what your
I will make more pictures, I will unsubscribe once this boil went ))) the two contacts soldered to a diode Assembly
Toothbrush insights dive directly into the body under the rubber cap is round!Two contacts are soldered from the diode bridge and another contact screw is screwed to a gene somewhere I don't remember.
judging by the pictures 2 of the contact go directly to the brushes 2 go directly on the PH?
the power of plus and minus, and two thin diode excitation (fuse block) www.drive2.ru/l/3046964/ you can see that?! Probably not there the installation went )))
and how many wires departs from the generator must be at least 2 one thick and one thin?
There is not any outgoing wires. All the conclusions of the regulator on the clamp screws made! Where the hell knows...
well, the emphasis there is only one option to break the thin wires that goes to the PH and not to the brushes.
Diode a, tried all FOUR options. For each output (the brush) to both sides, and no Fi ha!
Tried on the gene of focus to implement the diode in the gap of the armature. Damn, all the excitement there!
It was a real case when I connected the power wire on the starter coming from genes on the battery — on a battery of 12 volts, and the gene 18) Gene was after the repair, ideally. So if you changed the characteristics of the vehicle — the gene can issue a complete nonsense, in practice it was from 11 to 18.5 volts at prawnych generators. The first thing to check is the battery, the second power wires
Good topic . Fellow author. But it is necessary to emphasize that most generators can produce a maximum voltage of 19V and above . And that's fucked up battery, and ALL consumers. Not needlessly and concepts to go there . More resources for example lamps casciani Um at 13.5-13.8 V above it overheating and reducing the time of work significantly.
Hmm, a light bulb will not argue, it is working, my case was like that
The PH was faulty, food, heat, suddenly see that a check is on the blink, I look at the voltmeter and there 15,6, engine jammed, go out to smoke to cool a little, make that 14.5, and so a couple or three times per trip, the train is a little tired, and ordered a PH that is in the screenshot ready, then do not experience any problems for 2 years
about a voltmeter that would be good, both at lssice, but it was removed left a single light bulb, which should ( but for some reason not always working as it should? ) to signal fault. well about the check, not always this system works adequately. For example the screenshot at the top of viburnum, the error voltage no.
sawaer
I have a new battery worked for 3 months, when broken down generator and give 19 volt, thank God, was burned only light bulbs high beam, and all other devices quietly suffered such a high voltage)))
here for this and put a small voltmeter))) and in such cases is the check light and then begin to dig why
lucky! but, in principle, all electronic components are now the stabilizers of the input voltage which quietly tolerate such naprugi.
I have a new battery worked for 3 months, when broken down generator and give 19 volt, thank God, was burned only light bulbs high beam, and all other devices quietly suffered such a high voltage)))
NissanoVOOD
D+ is the terminal to which the wire from the bulb charging control? that is, the circuit need a diode to turn on? I just have a relay of the generator and the power relay inside the generator, and no one to crawl with diode)
Throw it with wire through a fuse and relay controlled from the terminal 15 to the +of the battery.
RR will steer the voltage at the battery, not the terminal 30 of the generator.
D+ is the terminal to which the wire from the bulb charging control? that is, the circuit need a diode to turn on? I just have a relay of the generator and the power relay inside the generator, and no one to crawl with diode)
your true, the ignition circuit 15, the circuit DC power supply 30, the mass body 31. this Bosch were trying to organize back in the 70-80-E.
strvv
not easier to connect, plus excitation via relay to the battery.
the control bulb of pressure (-), (+) from the ignition (15)
and stress on the gene will be associated with the battery and not naprugi on dordeduh.
with dopdohodov plus put on the dimensions — i.e., when the engine is running-dimensions Shine.
From the ignition (terminal 15(thanks for the correction)) I will fit a relay to turn on.
what?
put relay, turn on ignition, similar to a discharge on the ignition switch to the battery the voltage went directly to a relay controller to "know" the voltage at the end point,
and "almost daylight" is from dopdohodov to allow terminal D to the nearest power point dimensions.
as gene earned — tidy and dimensions of the circle lit up. by the way — it will be immediately seen as the loaded gene. if it is more bright that, oddly enough, when voltage before was not enough but through no fault of the generator and because of the bastard schema dadidam, and if you continue to have to prikazati — then it is the generator is not enough.
strvv
not easier to connect, plus excitation via relay to the battery.
the control bulb of pressure (-), (+) from the ignition (15)
and stress on the gene will be associated with the battery and not naprugi on dordeduh.
with dopdohodov plus put on the dimensions — i.e., when the engine is running-dimensions Shine.
could you be more specific about this?
so acted the voltage readings on the cents, but not through the relay and through the ignition switch
not easier to connect, plus excitation via relay to the battery.
the control bulb of pressure (-), (+) from the ignition (15)
and stress on the gene will be associated with the battery and not naprugi on dordeduh.
with dopdohodov plus put on the dimensions — i.e., when the engine is running-dimensions Shine.
EPT! No ... yourself! So there is... Moscha! What you need!
All ingenious is simple...
Thank you.
SERD210T
Read about this in the journal *driving* in the Soviet Times. But it indicates that the diodes have something special (poly-) ...
unipolar.
Polimetallicheskoe(there are still epitaxial though that profile in FAS one hell of 0.7 to fall on straight.)
Simply put a counter in parallel.
alexey-diagnost
why Schottky diodes, ordinary rectifier 10 amp, go!
The Schottky diodes will add 0.25-0.3 V.
Simple silicon 0.7 V.
it is clear, although not see the sense in them, so people are not confused and I wrote the opinion.
in a previous post, people couldn't remember what they are called, here : Read about this in the journal *driving* in the Soviet Times. But it indicates that the diodes have something special (poly).
So I recalled.
SERD210T
Read about this in the journal *driving* in the Soviet Times. But it indicates that the diodes have something special (poly-) ...
like the SCHOTTKY diodes as they are called
Confirm this idea from a magazine Behind the wheel and everything is checked, and spices you need!
Read about this in the journal *driving* in the Soviet Times. But it indicates that the diodes have something special (poly-) ...
well leak rate is 30-40 mA, but the standard of work of PH on the screenshot at the top off my car.
Judging by the stories customers about the diagnosis to me — 30% is a miracle of mega electronics engineers/diagnosticians and uncle Vasya with garage cooperatives that clicks the starter determine 100% that it is the retractor relay, or that the leak 300mA is the norm, and charging 14.5 V should be always on all modes of engine operation))))
All true, but not everyone has the opportunity to come to the spice, and not everywhere they are the real specialists!
+1
Will add step by step (NOTE, the secret information))) :
1. checking the battery load. plug (a drop of at least 11V at 50A), three times for 10 seconds
2. weight test on the engine (+ on battery, — on ice)
3. check the positive battery wire with the genes (+ on a gene — by battery or internal combustion engine)
4. check the connector on the gene according to the pinouts to this machine (the lamp, +, ign, etc.)
5. the belt and pulley genes (overrunning clutch)
6. and of course to compare the charge on the battery and on the gene in a running car, without load and under load (lights, a / C, etc.) on the twentieth, and when raising the rpm of the internal combustion engine
PS: and it is better to come to the specialists who will inspect, remove, repair and supply generators or starter ;-)
P. S. S.: if that missed — spice)
After reading the article I recommend to read the comments. Sometimes they write interesting things. So the battery life is a combination of charge and discharge at rest (when the vehicle is on the alarm or just standing) there are instances when a person has a good charging 14 but the current consumption at rest is equal to for example 0.3 And with such a consumption if the vehicle battery new starter will begin to twist tight when you run for 2-3 days after the Parking and the real problems will start after 6-8 months of such exploitation. There are still cases where the generator produces a charger 14 and the battery charging 13.4 in such cases the problem is poor contact (terminals objimka i.e. in those places where the wire crimps terminal connectors) drawdown there are not significant but all together can give a picture. Music lovers I do not take into account this is a separate issue! For this I would recommend after reading such articles to make an informed decision based on the opinion of several experts in this field or better after inspection by a specialist, and not another neighbor in the garage or just a friend whose whole life was from 1 to 5 cars. And if you have everything in order with consumption at rest and drawdown the minimum you can raise the charge to the book figures 14.2
why is that? just did the relay controls the production of current in the circuit of the generator by increasing/decreasing the required voltage on the armature of the generator to produce voltage in the specified range at a certain ambient temperature
High voltage is good. But with an increase in the generator voltage will give less power IMHO.
alexey-diagnost
thank you I know it's crap! and it's all because of inadequate thermal stabilization schemes. in short the old RN from a penny most reliable solution!
confirm other mounted on ZAZ Chance, now do not know what the undercharge
the owner of the car to shit out there that you want to do, still, break and rezhitsya
but the human factor is not always convenient, and you can forget about it. All we had to do it unattended, with normal temperature compensation circuit, got started and went!
No thing is only normal it is necessary to constantly watch the temperature of the surrounding air. And there, everyone decides for himself... ( in the winter really helps ).
thank you I know it's crap! and it's all because of inadequate thermal stabilization schemes. in short the old RN from a penny most reliable solution!
This UPD №2 was put on the "Svyatogor" 1.6 l ( as far as I remember is the toggle switch and 3 position winter, summer and spring-autumn ) sold to a friend told me how to use it, was in the middle position, summer has boiled away the battery. The result ruined a new battery.
That's how I read about genes, so more and more are beginning to understand that my gene is not funtsikliruet ... damn .
depending on the revs when cold, I have very little idle, so the charge could not go to full volume(13,5-14) with consumers
External PH I have is as pictured ... has been working for 2 years as a watch in the winter gives a little more charge, so if the winter 14,5-14,6, 14,3 summer-14,2 about falling into the onboard network doesn't crash anymore as before, when you turn on the stove and lights fell to 13.3, and 13.8 below, now falls
diman63
case and YOU used batteries are not buying?
And what is available?
How much for wholesale?
I also soldered a diode when I have a tag. Only after my diode in addition to increasing the voltage, there surges
Well painted.on the former 2114 gene brain I had put the external pH and everything returned to normal.and the accent in General, all norms and without manipulation
alexey-diagnost
he's on the case written above 14V where else? As I recall it, RN a new model and there is a very competent new circuitry termocamini, there is nothing else to do. The scheme Refine at the top.
On the gene might be 14V, but the battery (wire 30) more than 12V may not be.
Built-in relay regulator controls and keeps the voltage at the generator, but not in the vehicle network.
alexey-diagnost
he's on the case written above 14V where else? As I recall it, RN a new model and there is a very competent new circuitry termocamini, there is nothing else to do. The scheme Refine at the top.
On a fence too much that is written! Went to the WHA, not DC to charge the battery, put as much as 2 diodes and a battery otezdil 5 years without any maintenance. Now Ford Focus 3, the voltage of 15.2 V, 120A, the cars voltage is always more, without any alterations a good charge.
Wire this relay going to + of the generator there to turn off and throw a wire on the + of the battery through the 10A fuse and relay included 15 terminals.
There will be happiness.
Yes, winter is zestakova drawdown scheme dorabotki at the top of the printed circuit nekrivye hands or the nearest auto electrician (well, of course through the store and distillery division).
he's on the case written above 14V where else? As I recall it, RN a new model and there is a very competent new circuitry termocamini, there is nothing else to do. The scheme Refine at the top.
And do not tell on which wire to hang the led on the rn:
www.12v.ru/im.xp/049048052056057057057052052.jpg ?
Voltage regulator 611.3702-05
amendment of the bulbs is the initial excitation, and then the excitation circuit is powered and regulated with additional diodes
So I'm going approximately the same direction. School, as you say, the scheme of temperature compensation is missing from the generators that have the voltage regulator connected to the power output of the diode bridge and it is controlled by the voltage, and the contact on the lamp charging is used to enable the regulator, roughly speaking. I put a Bosch alternator, removed from Grants and fight was not with it.
But the 30-year-old generator had thought through the diode and relay to connect the D+ to the terminal 30. To the small voltage from the diode bridge also fell under the load and immediately corrected by the regulator.
1 on the diode there is a voltage drop and that the magnitude of the fall we have a voltage more turns
2 native PH of many genes prevents the factory school scheme of temperature compensation often, I hope manufacturers will fix it someday! On my Chinese machine it is not, gene Chinese Bosch, screen his work at the top.
A controversial decision for me. I do not like to critique, but sometimes you want a reasoned debate.
In General there is one question, what diode, what is its function in the circuit in which he crashed?
Second question. Why you need a external regulator? What prevents native the regulator to work correctly?
My question is not ironic, and probing.
Looking at all these developments, I had the idea that it would be better to force the voltage regulator to control the voltage at terminal 30, and not at terminal D+, as is done in modern generators.
he did not try to change, you need to look for a car for experiments. About the diode, nothing controversial, verified by many!
There is little controversial about the diode
Just a few days ago in the feed had a blog as a person was replaced by a thicker wire from the alternator to Akuma and the voltage went up like 0.5 or 1 Volt (I understand that it is under the load)
And of the available materials but.works without problems for several years on several machines.
Only additive I have the voltage of only 0.1-0.2 V. for all consumers.diode raise the voltage with one diode it drops significantly.
And in winter can reach 15вольт.short-term and will diminish within a few minutes.thereby compensating for spent on the start-up of the battery charge.
VOVAN-NPC
tell me, how in this scheme where to connect the diode? what pin on the alternator?
In the gap Clem's
tell me, how in this scheme where to connect the diode? what pin on the alternator?
IliaJIV
Good story.
And because of that cold 14, and as a warm-up to 13.2 drops?
In all modern generators of RN embedded in the thermocouple circuit. As the heating of the engine compartment (generator, battery) drops the battery voltage that the battery would not boil in the summer. Some it works too much...
as a variant of the departures of the temperature characteristic of the Zener diode in the relyuhi and so it is necessary to look
Yes there is a cheap RR there all disassembled easily, if you have a friendship with a soldering iron is converted to the desired regulated voltage...
Hmm...Fancy.
If additional diodes(you need actually two counter-parallel diode) is inserted in the generator voltage as the heating of the diode will fall.
If the wire is D+ built-in controller running on generator plus a separate long wire to connect to the terminal plus of the battery(from + alternator to isolate) the relay controller begins to track the voltage is on the battery(not the output of the generator) and a diode is what is not needed.
Wire throw through a fuse and relay included from terminal 15(from the ignition for example).
Other changes to the scheme do not need.
It was a very ancient edition of "Zarulem".
If itching it is the appearance of the RR it is better to take volgovskoe with two sockets for connecting the excitation "Winter", "Summer".