Catalyst cutout and installation of a flame arrester Mg-race Atiho - Toyota Celica, 1.8 L, 2000
The barrel (check yenzhin) caught fire for me a couple of thousand km. back. Diagnostics showed a low threshold of catalyst efficiency.
every kilometer the car drove worse and worse ... The ride comfort was lost.
Found a flame arrester in Chelyabinsk. Received it in January and all that remained was to tear out the catalyst and weld in a flame arrester. But, in Sochi, all this is not so easy to do.
Having gone to one of the places, I was told:
buy 2 lambda probe sensors (4300r + 4500r as it turned out)
buy 4 springs (120x4)
buy 4 bolts (180x4)
exhaust manifold gasket (500r) a
connecting ring.
From this I bought only a gasket and 2 springs.
The sensors of the master said they could break from the fact that they got used to it.
In general, I went to my friend, and everything turned out to be much easier.
The sensors got out even without the bucket.
The springs and bolts did not break, and the gaskets did not crumble)))
After five minutes, the exhaust system was removed and a friend was already working as a grinder. Having cut out the catalyst, I was surprised, it was clean ...
They turned off the light (((Where we wanted to do welding. Let's go for some carbite and a cocktail for the welder. In general, they welded perfectly with gas welding and everything is fine)))
The sound did not change at all, better the car did not go, and if it did, then it is almost not noticeable ...
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For those who are interested, I was very interested, and so I conducted an experiment))))
Somewhere and sometime, but it seems at the selica club, I heard that if the check engin is on (the barrel is such, usually orange, which indicates that some of the sensors is not working properly and you need to go for diagnostics), then the machine is in emergency mode . So, with a burning "check" I go about a month. I do not like the sound of the engine, the car is a bit dull, some vibrations (this is already with the cut out wheel). It burns with me, because there is still no trick (((
Since I live in the Olympic village, where it is difficult to find something ((((
One fine day, I decided to drop the check, removed the "-" terminal, put it on, check - left. I started the car, the engine is working perfectly. No detonation, vibration, extraneous noise, etc. Driving is a pleasure, the car is more sensitive to the gas pedal, the dynamics have improved, etc.
After 70 km, the sound went unpleasant again, I thought it was still not a check, but looking at the tidy saw that it caught fire again ...
The result of this, IMHO, the barrel (check) should not burn if you want normal engine operation. Now I understand for myself that with a burning "check", no matter what the sensor is, the car works in emergency mode. I will urgently make snag, but for now I will reset the terminal)
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And hurray! Finally, I got rid of "CHEK ENZHIN", my brother brought Conder and resistance, I had to buy them in Moscow. Consumption has significantly decreased, but the ride has become much more pleasant, due to the fact that the engine began to run smoother and quieter =)))
Price tag: 2,000 ₽ Mileage: 149,500 km
It's strange. When I have a cat. dead. I drove up to the guys, diagnosed it, ordered a stronger. I arrived 2 days later. They cut the cut with a special pribluda, removed it. And a stronger was welded on the machine. Nobody filmed the entire system. The whole action took ~ 25-30 minutes.
yarike
And what is a stronger? Is this a flame arrester? On the 2nd photo, he lies next to the cart. What did you do with the snag?)))
an ordinary pipe with bulges inside, the purpose is to create resistance (due to turbulence) to the flow of exhaust gases (such as imitation of kata)
Great Yaroslav! Tell me, pliz - what kind of conder and resistance and where to put them. Thank you…
And what is a stronger? Is this a flame arrester? On the 2nd photo, he lies next to the cart. What did you do with the snag?)))
In the sense not to throw it away? Mine is also in the garage))))
You in the sense of a new Katalik replaced?))))
I had no option to take a new one, from 20 thousand. rub. up to 60 thousand ...
and no sense from it ...
and I'm going to cut out the Katalik and stick a flamegas with a blende, although I don't have any check ...
we can go better))))) I want to catch up with Vrix)))))
I think you can't catch up with it))))
Believe me, there is almost no difference. If you do, completely the entire route, then there will be a sense. But then you want the intake, and after the intake, the engine, suspension, well, you know what I mean))))
blende lambda will save only if the brain is strangling dviglo with an emergency cut, if the catalyst is not fucked up and the nuna is hammered to cut it out. so as not to screw up the engine, strong exhaust resistance.
in my bortovik there is a detailed faq on snagging for a lambda probe ... work for 20 minutes, budget up to 10 rubles)) welkam ...
They drove to me, I drove, now a person drives, everything is fine, you can see its quality, it will serve)
Did you ride this flamegas for a long time? Nothing burned out? .. Didn't it rattle?
I just ask for information ... how is it in operation)) it costs the same)
The sound just changed a little ... We can say that insignificantly ... I haven’t noticed the expense yet ... only 1 day has passed =) And I can’t say about the increase in power, because it’s winter ... one horseradish press on the gas and grind the wheels =) this should be checked in the summer ...
in general, nothing special =) then everything was fine as it is ... Soon there will be a new catback.
I see ugums. Why can't you get an answer ?! Only first I would like to receive an answer to my questions
I cannot call, alas, I live in another city. Apparently I won't get an answer to my question.
I can explain everything clearly and convincingly, with numbers, just come to me for diagnostics and I will clearly show you everything, tell you, explain.
How did you determine that the readings of the first lambda changed towards depletion? Explain to me the algorithm how did you come to this conclusion pliz?
That is, following your logic - if you put Japanese brains (there is no second lambda in them), then all this behavior will disappear? How did you monitor sensor readings, intake air temperature, coolant temperature, stove or kondeya on, and many other parameters? Or is it just your subjective feelings that are not confirmed by figures from the series "put zero, the car flew"?
neekei
Well, you are clearly not aware of many things Yaroslav.
1) the opinion of the creators of the car is different) what they clearly said in the technical manual
2) blende does not affect the mixture in any way. the second lambda does not participate in mixture formation at all, not by a percentage.
The second lambda is installed exclusively at the request of environmental standards. Its only task and function is to monitor the condition of the catalyst and nothing more. The logic of the brain simply compares the readings before and after, and they must differ by a certain amount. Resistance with a conductor (this is basic knowledge of electronics) does not allow the figure to be more than it should be - the brains are happy. ALL. The second lambda is not tied to the fuel system in any way. Please do not mislead people.
If you had a clogged catalyst, then this is one thing, from there and consumption. The check does not put the car into emergency mode.
I have repeatedly read messages that the second sensor is not involved in the formation of the mixture. That is, it has no effect.
In this case, can you clearly explain why, when installing the blende on the second sensor (we put it on faku, that is, we do everything correctly), the readings of the first sensor begin to change towards the leaner mixture?
For example, after installing the blende, I noticed that the motor began to pull worse. The candles are white. The motor tends to overheat (very often the fan turns on, almost every minute at xx for example). And with such symptoms I'm not the only one- (
Well, you are clearly not aware of many things Yaroslav.
1) the opinion of the creators of the car is different) what they clearly said in the technical manual
2) blende does not affect the mixture in any way. the second lambda does not participate in mixture formation at all, not by a percentage.
The second lambda is installed exclusively at the request of environmental standards. Its only task and function is to monitor the condition of the catalyst and nothing more. The logic of the brain simply compares the readings before and after, and they must differ by a certain amount. Resistance with a conductor (this is basic knowledge of electronics) does not allow the figure to be more than it should be - the brains are happy. ALL. The second lambda is not tied to the fuel system in any way. Please do not mislead people.
If you had a clogged catalyst, then this is one thing, from there and consumption. The check does not put the car into emergency mode.
I do not know what error 420 is)
My check was burning. The car ate like a fool.
Diagnostics - showed the catalyst.
Cut out the catalyst
Put the snag
Consumption fell.
My opinion is that with a burning check the car is in emergency mode and we consume more benzene.
And yet, I think that snag with resistance and condender also does not make the motor work correctly (mixture)
just an error 420 - does not cause an increase in consumption) and even more so the transition to emergency mode) And you are misleading people.
Do not nudi) the consumption was much higher, for such a big difference, measurements are not needed)
How was the flow rate measured - was the infa taken from the brain by the injection time or by subjective methods?
I don’t know how it really is. Judging by the fact.
Consumption with a burning check is higher, when the error is reset before it appears again, the consumption decreases. From this I made the following conclusion.
AA now I have one lambda and I don’t bother)))
It is a huge delusion that when the check lamp is lit, the car goes into emergency mode. The original manual says that the emergency mode is activated only with several types of errors. Catalyst error is not one of them.
I will not tell you. From the first sensor, the wires go out at the feet of the passenger, but I did not pay attention to the second sensor. I assume that in the parking brake area!
You can’t tell me where the
oxygen sensor is connected behind the catalyst. where do the wires from the sensor go?
Well, in order not to burn yourself, you need to be born a bore theorist and do everything three times counting))) You can't know everything, you don't need to regret anything)
straight to the point ... it's a pity that you realize that it's hot only when you burn yourself = (
Totally agree with you. Touching the exhaust atmosphere is not a rewarding thing! If you change it, then only for a branded release, which was designed for a specific motor, otherwise everything can be ruined!
I would like to look at the measurements ... I have a situation that the forward flow only killed the horses. The loss at 2 liters was 10 hp. and 18 Nm = (So be careful with tuning the exhaust to the atmosphere. In general, it is better not to touch the exhaust to the atmosphere, because the valve timing is very sensitive and can be pulled to the detriment ...