FAQ. Deception on the 2nd lambda probe. - Toyota Celica, 2002
at the request of workers ...
FAQ. Deception on the lambda probe.
What we need:
1. Capacitor K10-17B imp. 1.0μF Y5V, +/- 20%, 1206 (Item number: 759300515)
2. Resistance C1-4 imp. 0.25 W, 5% 1 MΩ (Item number: 51741)
3. Soldering iron
4. Insulating tape
5. Basic skills in handling a soldering iron.
And so, we removed the negative terminal from the battery. The first step is to fold the passenger mat on the center console side. There we will see two chips from lambda probes, we need the one on the left in the photo.
Next, we disconnect the chip, cut the blue wire and clean it, but do not cut (!) The white one.
We take the radio components purchased in advance and connect according to the scheme
The most popular question is "Where should the condender be installed, before the resistor or after ?!"
The answer is - if you look from the chip, then first the conder, then the resistor!
The resulting product must be well insulated, it is even better to pull out all the wires from the chip before starting installation and put heat shrinkage on them, but this is optional.
Another tip, it is better to make the connection in the place of the wire where the corrugation is easily lifted up, so that it can then close the insulation.
Deception installed! connect the chip, put the rug in place, wonder how much sand is there (optional =))), put the battery terminal back, turn on the ignition and enjoy the absence of checkenzhins on the tidy. Now you can safely go to cut the catalyst and put a flame gun in its place.
there are so many letters for those who are especially intelligent ... so there are no questions.
and what sensations can be? the absence of a checkenzhin on the tidy creates a feeling of satisfaction))) well, seriously speaking, the motor feels much better without thinking about environmental pollution)
So long and no one asked questions. I liked the description, the names of the elements are difficult to describe, it was not necessary to write so many letters. Where did you read about this kind of snag, how does it work? and how does it feel after installation?
the principle is the same, the only question is in the testimony of your lyabda ... or rather, what kind of voltage it gives to the brains so that they think that everything is in order. pick up the components from here.
Is this method applicable to the current on the Celica, or can I think of the same thing on my Honda?
consumption decreased, because the motor stopped working in emergency mode and there was no need to press harder on the sneaker so that we could go ...
Probably because you got 6p for everything. =) check the components, most likely the air conditioner has lost its properties, because the resistance, in theory, should not have failed, but there xs in general ...
the simplest and fastest option, moreover guaranteed, is to install a small adapter under the second lambda, it works one hundred pounds
the method described above also works, I'm just an alarmist. My MAF got fucked up because of the zero.
the check caught fire, then a dip in turnover. I cleaned everything and all the problems went away)) and the check went out by itself
Are you talking about the fact that the MAF has fucked up with him? well nulevik passed all the shit through himself, MAF and fucked up
I think the answer is worth looking at VW-club, jetta-club, etc.
either try with these radio components or purchase an electronic emulator of the oxygen sensor (just google it)
GOOD LUCK!
How would you do the same with the Jetta IV 2.0L? :-)
vin: 3VWSK69M31M131138
From me cognac.
Yes, that's understandable. I asked about
1. Capacitor K10-17B imp. 1.0μF Y5V, +/- 20%, 1206 (Item number: 759300515)
2. Resistance C1-4 imp. 0.25 W, 5% 1 MΩ (Item number: 51741)
Is it really the same on all machines?
this article is intended for those who have two lambdas ... you need to deceive the second one, the one after the Katalika, read it carefully! who has one probe, nothing needs to be done
How would you do the same with the Jetta IV 2.0L?
I have two probes. The first before the flame arrester (which was the catalyst) 6 wires, the second after the flame arrester - 4 wires.
It seems that he put everything, in the morning the check lit up again, went to a friend, he connected his garbage, considered the same error on the lambda, what a hell to do (((
PS without a check it's boring to drive ...)
So this is the case. The check lit up, showed a 2 probe error. I bought a new one. After 200 km (gat) lit up again. I'm going for diagnostics, it shows that something is wrong with the catalyst itself. Campaign snag to put pridestsa. But if the catalyst itself is faulty, and not the sensors, then the check will not light up again? If you have the option of installing a flame arrester, then the snag will ride, is it also possible?
And if the catalyst does not cut, the consumption will decrease in the absence of Jackie Chan?
I just did all of the above, it helped, the check was gone) Nice post, buddy! I have helped many, I think!
Tell me, on my celica there is one lambda, this may be, the whole Internet rummaged through they write two should be (what is the reason?
tell me! but it will give a ride if the sensor itself does not work? (heating burned out)!
I have 4 wires on the lambda after the catalyst, 2 white. 1 gray and one black. Now I'm racking my brains what now where to solder
Catalytic blendes for the second lambda probe. At the best price, with a 100% uptime guarantee. ECU flashing is not required. Sending to the regions of Russia.
More details on our website: avtozip74.ru/kat_obmanki.htm
[email protected]
tel. 8951-803-2282 Max.
Chelyabinsk
They are also called: trompe l'oeil catalyst, oxygen sensor, catalytic spacer for lambda probe, mini catalyst, emulator, etc.
Tell me, I traveled half a year with a broken catalyst and a burning check. and everything was fine. But already for 2 weeks my fuel consumption increased by 168 km - 40 liters. Recently changed Akum check does not burn. I read the familiar no errors. But sensors 1st and 2nd readings jump from 100 (300) to 700 - is this normal? Will the snag help me or is it something else?
Healthy, listen and not vkurse if you put a capacitor 1mkf 650 volts? just in the city no where?
Has something changed with the consumption? I mechanically set the flow rate increased by 3 liters, the check does not burn, it became faster. Then I took off the nafik.
I put this on C4, the consumption increased immediately, but the check did not leave. The error was low catalyst efficiency.
What readings should be at idle on DK2 - 0.7V flat line. My brother collected all these capacitors and resistors, the error went away, but on dk 2, the idle graph dances from 0.15 to 0.5 V
I think it shouldn't be that way, there should be an almost flat line. Or I'm wrong?
Engine 1.8 Seeder 2001
Eh people ... I read all this and rzhu ... in general, anyone has any idea how everything STE works, but if it didn’t work for me, it means that it’s also going to bother me
just a car got caught with wooden brains, so it gave a ride, it would work with a resistor alone
Euro 3: The principle of catalyst serviceability is calculated using a simple formula: The catalyst is considered serviceable if the number of oscillations (transitions through 0.45 Volts) on the second sensor (x ') is less than on the first (x), that is:
kx'
Usually this coefficient is 4, although it can differ both in one direction and in the other direction, depending on the manufacturer.
Euro-4, Euro-5. The principle of catalyst serviceability, in contrast to Euro-3, is calculated by a large number of parameters, or to be more precise, at least as follows:
1. The formula kx '
3. Reaction of the second lambda probe to a sharp depletion.
4. Work of the second lambda probe with a lean mixture.
5. Control of the catalyst temperature by the internal resistance of the second lambda probe.
6. and a few more indirect parameters.
Only when the above conditions are met, the ECU can conclude that the catalyst is in order.
this is for those cars whose brain does not react to gas rotation, that is, an almost straight line is enough!
Comment has been deleted
go away, people often drive me after you ... do not lie probably about 30 pieces I unscrewed the spacers ... the spacer for cars until 2000 the rest of the patient poultice, do not get fooled by people!
with a cut inside the spacer, it also does not walk for a long time, maximum half a year - a year)))
Only on the bottom sensor. Read how a lambda probe works and why put a snag, for example here - www.drive2.ru/o/b/463864440501043431/
Hello, do not tell me such a question is the blende put only on the second sensor, the lambda probe? Or can you also install it on the first one under the hood? or not to anything? Thank you in advance.
Have you checked it? ))) there is a crutch ... and God forbid installing one in a car ... It also emulates the signal curve of the front sensor (1 Volt level) ...
Hello, there are no tricks for the first sensor (the one before the catalyst), there are firmware. under euro zero and 1, on which there are no sensors, the mixture is prepared without it
70Slava70
forget about experiments with a resistor and a capacitor, nothing will work, there the drawdown should be another 0.2 V if the car will not be swearing at a rich mixture. this is provided if, having played with the conder and the resistor, you get a certain straight line
Good afternoon. I have Avensis 1zz 2001 Manual transmission. It has three lambdas. Accordingly, the third after the catalyst. I also set myself a capacitor and a resistor, but the graph is the same, only the peaks are less than in the graphs of the first lambda, the amplitude is about the same. I would like to know if you have a straight line according to the graph or, like mine, a sawtooth line? I put a capacitor of 1 MΩ 50V and a resistor of 1 MΩ for
6 hours
if you asked a question in terms of installing the emulator, then the signal can be taken from the first sensor (if it has a signal amplitude of up to 1 V). When removing the catalyst, both the first and the second (post-catalyst lambda) signals are the same, so you can also connect from the first sensor.
AND WITH THE EMULATOR IN MOTION IN XX TUPA JUMPS FROM 0.65-0.8 vk.com/club94912998?w=wall-94912998_204%2Fall
If suddenly the lambda after the catalyst burns out (for example, heating) or the signal has stopped forming, which means it will not make sense to underestimate it with a resistor ...
and buying a new lambda in order to screw the snag again there, then I found how to make a complete electronic emulator myself, it's done simply and for the money 100 rubles.
guys got confused right here: sequoia-club.ru/index.php?topic=11.0