The process is going on ... - Toyota Sprinter Trueno, 1.6 L, 1997
And so, I did a little machine, unfortunately I didn't take pictures.
In general, I made a seeding:
I finally waited for a stock box for the air filter, I was looking for two years, I finally found it) I put it on, the car immediately went faster) When I washed my Arekhi, the bath was blackening. Now I don't even know how to put it back on, or just change the regular filter once a month or two and not bathe).
I put new "eggs" and bushings on the front, Toyota's original. There were fewer knocks.)
Well, I put TRDeshnye silent. In comparison with the stock, they really look more impressive and reliable).
Right now, as the snow melts, we will gradually introduce the main nishtyachki).
No, an acquaintance takes from the officers, and I from him.) We are tight with this case)
I don’t think there’s any sense from the admission, but in our conditions we need an eye and an eye for it so that it doesn’t get worse) I think I’ll put his current on the race.
I plan to put the cooler on Saturday, the main thing is that they have time to bring the butter).
Damn, I was still thinking about the Apexi power intake + Something from a cold intake like ARC! So what comes out? don't, is this nonsense?
You stuck the oil cooler? By the way, do you have it with or without a thermostat?
I took the X-cess, it was in stock. On Friday, we start to put everything)
In the box, the oil also took motyl gear 75w90
Well, for everyday life in a prince, it is suitable, in Khabarovsk many people with GTextreme and just 4A-GE specialists take it for everyday life! But for racing, they usually take either 300V or 8100 X-lite ester 0W30 (if there is normal cooling, the same notorious OiL cooler :)
By the way, I found an excellent reference here.
www.gt-four.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1707 is
generally well written! Read it, very useful!
Yes, by chance, without understanding, I took it, it's good that I didn't pour it) I'll give it to my mother, she has run 15 thousand in three years)
Do you recommend 8100 X-cess 5w40 for the summer?
No, eco-energy is an energy-saving oil, it is recommended for new motors precisely for reasons of energy saving and environmental friendliness, because it is very thin at 100 degrees and its HTHS is below 3.5 (but I'm already going deeper)! In short, for high loads from a series of thirty, the 8100X-max 5W30 will be cheaper, it is just sharpened not for energy saving, but for protecting the motor and its freezing point is lower! But I repeat, 8100 X-lite ester 0W30 is the strongest of them. it is, like the 8100X-max 5W30, sharpened for the wear resistance of the motor, they have the same viscosity at 100 degrees, and the most important thing is that X-lite is ester! Plus, he has a point of change in fluidity right up to -51 degrees (I would calmly start in any frost)! So for 4A-GE eco-energy for high loads I do not recommend, and think for yourself the motors are far from new,
I thought about 300V, but it is very expensive for everyday life (
thanks for the advice, otherwise, to be honest, what is the difference between X-cess, X-lite, eco-energy, etc.
what can you say about eco-energy 5w30? then the canister is worth, I think to pour it for the winter
if 8100 5W40, then only X-cess!
But honestly speaking, I would recommend MOTUL 300V chrono 10W40 double ester, and in winter MOTUL 8100X-lite ester 0W30! Everything is only on an ester basis, it can withstand higher loads, the esters also don’t care about temper, everything is taken out!
I used all these 3 oils myself!
When I install the oil cooler and sensors, I will try the 8100 X-lite ester 0W30 in the summer! I'll see how it behaves, I really liked it in winter! The only thing, however, is that for oils on an ester basis, when you tumble in the red zone, the consumption is slightly higher (not fumes). But this is due to the fact that it completely envelopes the entire surface of the metal, and in the red zone it simply spits out more into the exhaust! But the most important thing is that the oil holds any load and does not collapse at very high temperatures, like oils on simpler bases (polyalphaolefins or even more hydrocracking) and even less leaves a dry residue (varnish, sludge, etc.)
Well, I have, ugh ugh ugh, everything is fine stuck) I will try to find the turbojet engine so that I can pour it next time
Yes, it’s not the unit, but the synchronizers!
Well, in principle, if the box is still intact, then the motyl gear 75w90 will be fine! We have several 4A-GEs who ride it! For two, it is normal, and for one, the third crunched as before, and crunches, but there is no longer a matter of oil!
But I was saved by the fact that I switched to TRD GL3 75W90, otherwise I already thought that my C56 khan (also without blocks), some transmissions after pouring GL4 / GL5 75W90 synthetics just stopped turning on at some moments! And then I changed it to TRD GL3 75W90 and now the flight is normal.
I go to Amali myself. Agip has not tried it, but people seem to be praising it.
In general, the best oil is that which is not forged. Well, the oil is better cheaper, but change more often IMHO
Yes, I’ve heard about aimol for the first time.) What can you say about amali and agip?