Acoustics front. Woofer connection. Bitoplast. - Toyota Celica, 2.0L, 1998
Good day!
I am remaking my music and a question arose. At the moment, there are "regular" speakers in the doorway (they arrived with the car) 20s, they play through the DLS tweeter crossover. Does it make sense to remove them and install DLS speakers but 16 cm? You need quality, not bass.
And the second question is how to glue Bitoplast? The surface of the door panel is very uneven, I have no idea how to glue it there, only if it works out in pieces?
The process ...
I have long wanted a change in terms of music, everything was good, but not great. Therefore, a 10 '' sub Hertz HX300 was purchased. As it turned out, an excellent woofer =) The amplifier was already available (arrived with the car) weak, but so far it was decided to do it on it. Therefore, the task was to install a second amplifier
, throw all the wires and replace what was earlier. For the amplifier, a set of Mystery MAK 2.04 was purchased and for acoustics, replacement of existing wires with shielded Mystery
He began by figuring out how to get to the radio (the amps are in the trunk) and where to throw the power one. He took off the "glove compartment"
Then I pulled out all the seats that interfered =)
Power was laying in the same place where the first one was. The "hole" is very conveniently located near the battery. Photo for comparison, what was and which was added. Plus black wires, this is what was planned to be replaced from the "head" to the amplifier.
Comparison of what has changed
Because there was already something to rely on and see how it was connected, so I followed the same scheme. Zero screwed next to the rear seat backrest mount.
I pulled out the "old" wires and in their place I stretched 4 shielded wires for the front / rear acoustics and 2 tulips for the woofer. Although the radio tape recorder can only issue either to the front / rear, or to the front / woofer = (
Because of this, I had to parallelize the amplifiers. Having connected everything beforehand, I listened and went home to dinner =)
Price tag: 14 000 ₽
also an option ... but stereo is so badly checked, look for the most mono-channel songs of your preferred genres, and twist the balance left and right ...
Yesterday I took the spacers for the speakers ... it remains to twist and connect them. I suspect that I will do one side first. Then I'll listen to the left and right, and if the quality is better, I'll redo the second one. Or I will return it as it was.
you will not believe it, the same nonsense ... I rolled for 1.5 years, and in the fall I decided to change everything :))
I have a sub, I collected everything on the weekend. One of these days I will write and post photos. Not finished with Shumkov yet. Damn, I went for 2 years, and then it started ... = D
I put the Focal 165A1, in principle, everything works with a bang ... The middle is very, very good, as far as my hearing tells me. Basses are also missing. If I put the sub, there will be a readjustment, and the front will relax from the bass load and will play even better. :)
So I haven't decided yet what would be better. The problem is that DLS also have a problem with midrange, which is actually lacking now. There are highs, there are lows, there are no mids = (I'll put DLS on, I'll get a better sounding again of the lows. It's not clear. I think it will still sound no worse, therefore it should be redone. I don't want to buy additional new fronts now, since I have these.
The denomination should be higher - the larger the winding, the larger the magnet ... without a trial installation, unfortunately, you cannot fully appreciate the difference.
as an option, you can make a narrowing podium, just a chipboard ring inside the podium that is holding the speaker now.
Hello! Well, they are not really my relatives. The Japanese obviously changed it already and plus the amp was under the passenger seat, so there is a doubt. The problem is precisely the diameter, since DLS is smaller and, accordingly, you will need to do something for them. I would like to know how much better they are than what they are worth.
Wash the panel of the door, degrease it, and in pieces - otherwise there is no way :)) at the very same hemorrhoid sheathing, molded in pieces :)
Better change the speakers. It will not be louder - there will be clearer bass and even sound.
The standard is usually any henna, such as Blaupunkt, with a scanty magnet and made of cardboard ... my standard speakers surprised me a lot - they seemed to play well, but how they pulled it out - such crap in appearance :))
but, well, that's a bit different. Bitoplast is similar to foam rubber. and vibroplast is like plasticine on foil =) they also need to be glued, I want the rear arches. He has such a flaw, a serious infection.
everything with bitoplast? I also start to sound. only when there is a DLS with a rated power of 80 watts ... =) the bass is already there, I want quality.
There is no difference how to glue bitoplast, even in small pieces. The main thing is to glue all flat surfaces, they vibrate the most. I glued myself in three layers: a layer inside the door on the outer piece of iron, a layer on the inside, but already outside the door, and a layer on the skin. On the catwalks there are 20 Pioneer, and tweeters of a different brand. It sounds great, and most importantly, very high quality, I don't even need a sub.
power and acoustics spread on different sides, mystery in the furnace ... so as not to catch pickups from the generator or engine. You can vibrate plastic cards in pieces ... it is enough to cover 60-70% of a flat surface. Above with hermetic… debatable though. It is better to buy a candy bar on a subic. Well, it is natural to pay maximum attention to vibration isolation of doors and install the speakers through spacer rings made of mdf or plywood.
This is the basics ...