Power cable routing - Toyota Funcargo, 1.5L, 2000
And all the same, the Japanese are cunning))) exactly the same as the "Americans are stupid", the same are the cunning Japanese)
I wanted to put the sub in the trunk: the sub was quickly found and bought, it remains to screw it up.
I took a simple power cable with a cross section of 6 mm2, removed the thresholds and decorative overlays on the left side and extended the cable - there is so much space for it, as if the cunning Japanese assumed that I would want to lay the cable there. As soon as it came to a broach from the passenger compartment to the engine compartment, the Kama Sutra began with podlivaniya to the left boot of the engine compartment, in which a decent wiring harness had already passed. Resorted to the help of the Internet: who solved this problem how, but what was really written was to drill a hole where the thread is. This option did not suit me, because the Japanese are more cunning! As a result, having been reassured by the impossibility of crawling from the inside from the side of the glove compartment, I decided to climb through the dashboard (I remembered that there was a place there when I did line-input on the head unit). He took off the tidy, there is no place and the boot is not visible. I moved the ABS control unit and voooon there in the distance the inner side of the zarny anther appeared, I had to recall the school course of the young gynecologist. I pierced the boot from the side of the engine compartment and pushed the rope through it, then with a specially made gynecological hook I groped on the rope and victory, the rope was captured. Next, I knit the rope and the wire together so that their connection is less than the diameter of the wire, and I pull the rope back. All!
ZY: then the ABS fault signal started to light up ... I had to go back to the unit and fix the wires)
Price tag: 150 ₽
there is a boot on the left) far from it to the battery) no one has yet laid in a pound straight through this boot hidden from the inside - everyone drilled nearby somewhere))) So I was the first to do it without disassembling the whole machine)
I took a wire of 6 squares in castorama - assembly. I will attach it easily to the terminal - I took the terminal with a ring and crimped the cable, there is a bolt on the battery terminal - I will unscrew the nut, put on my terminal and tighten the nut. I will put the buffer today) The console is in the process - yesterday I threw a shielded 100 hertz twisted pair with good cores - I pressed it on one side with an 8-pin network connector, so that it would be easy to insert into the console later. just 8 cores are enough to completely control the sub and turn it on - 6 cores for controlling the gain and 2 cores for power control. From the side that is pressed into the buffer with a 6-pin connector, which is just inserted into the remote and 2 free conductors go to power management.
Regarding the control of the sub itself - the circuit was ripped from the finished factory block - you need a variable resistor with a nominal value of 45 KΩ and with simultaneous control of two channels, then write there two resistors in one case, I'll post the circuit later. I take it from the dead mother, it also has an LED signaling of the link and activity, these diodes are used to indicate the inclusion of the sub.
So there will be a theme).
When will you have new wiring?
So only on the right did you find the boot? The left should ALSO be 100%. And what cable? KG? Or firmy? How did you fix it on the terminal? Did you set the buffer? By the way, did you make a remote control? In general, a lot of questions)))