Rear-wheel drive Jayzet bustup (Anders) - Toyota Mark II, 2.5 L, 1995

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Rear-wheel drive Jayzet bustup

The turbo Jeasets were produced, unfortunately, only on rear wheel drive. More and more Tourer Vee Brands / Chasers / Crosses, turbo Soarers, Arista and Supras are becoming more and more available. You can often see on the forums, and in conversations with the owners, the desire to improve the dynamics of these cars. What needs to be done to make it "unrealistic"?

To "bring down" you need a lot of money, first of all. And only a few are ready to spend them. Therefore, a more meaningful question would be: "What can be done to obtain sensitive improvements in dynamics with a minimum investment"? And the minimum investment is a good old boost and it is done quite simply.

Fuel pump

We start all with the fuel pump. In the standard, when the pump was new, it produced 180 l / h and it is enough up to about 1 bar. But how old is the car? That's right, a lot, so no one knows what state he is in. You can measure it, but few know how to do it correctly. Ideally, the pump should be removed for this procedure. A more correct solution is to immediately replace it with a new one. If this is not done and the pressure is increased, and the pump will not cope = hello, detonation and death of the motor. Is it worth saving on this? Not worth it.

Today there is a huge selection of pumps. The most preferable in terms of price / performance ratio is, in our opinion, Walbro 255 l / h. You can also take a slightly more expensive pump from the American Supra 280 l / h, Sard 280 l / h, Tomei 280-300 l / h, etc. An alternative inexpensive option is used. a pump from the GTR, which produces about 240-250 l / h, but it is used. and it needs to be measured, plus there is a question to its resource. There were many cases when such pumps came already dead or ended after a short time of operation. Plus, the pump from the GTR is rather big in size. So the pump was replaced.

Long live the standard!

The cars that came to us in Russia after so many years of operation or that have already "lived" with us are clearly far from being new. You realize that grandmothers who drive, turbo Soarer exclusively for TO - this is a sweet myth. Such cars are taken to anneal and are often killed from ignorance or disregard. What do we need? Check the main components and assemblies and determine the degree of readiness for forcing.

Candles ... the root of many evils. There are so many problems because of them! We unscrew and look. If it looks not quite "finished" - "sandblast" and take to the stand. This is found in many candle shops. Candles on Dzheyzet should hold at least 12-13 points, and preferably 14-15. If not, carefully put these candles in the trash can. New Japanese candles are not sold in the Far East, nowhere and do not believe either the original spare parts or anyone. There are none - everything is Chinese. Japanese candles are those bought in Japan in a store or at an auction and taken off the boat by you personally or by your trusted friends. There are also quite a few online stores selling candles from Japan. Better to take tuning candles, such as HKS, Trust-Greddy, Apexi, the Chinese have not yet learned to fake them. Surprise,

If you nevertheless bought candles, or rather when you nevertheless bought them, go straight to the stand. They keep 14-15 points - hurray, they don't - return them to the sellers and do not listen to any exhortations that they should keep 5-6 points and that this is enough even for the Bugatti Veyron. Ignore any comments and return the candles, let them ride them themselves. For example, HKS candles are held in such a way that no measuring equipment can measure how much they hold, far beyond 18 points, even used ones, not to mention new ones. Invest in HKS Super Fire Racing and forget about this problem for a few years.

Use 6s for winter (ISO 6), for summer 7 (ISO 7). Use of 8-rock for summer is allowed.

Coils. We look very closely at the coils. If there are cracks, a replacement can be used, but only without cracks. Do not neglect this, correct ignition is very important!

Fuel filter for replacement.

Air filter for replacement, read below.

Measure the freezing point of antifreeze in the radiator, often cars come from Japan with highly diluted antifreeze, which in winter can cause freezing and cracks in the radiator. They can measure at any major oil change station. The freezing temperature should not be equal to that on the most difficult winter days, but naturally higher.

Measure the compression. The engine should be warm, but not hot. The ideal compression is 12, if less than 10, the rings are to be replaced. Ideally, the compression should not be less than 11 and the difference between the cylinders should not exceed 0.5 points. Of course, you can drive on compression 9, but if you want something from this engine, then compression below 11 is depressing.

Change the oil to synthetics at a large oil change station, preferably a dealer or a large supplier, so that there are no fakes. The oil can be poured 0W-40, 5W-50, 10W-60, etc. For the winter, 0W-40 is better. Don't listen if they say that semi-synthetics are better for old engines. Let them pour such oil on themselves.

If some oil seals are leaking, for replacement. The oil seal kit is inexpensive and if you are going to boost the engine it is best to replace the current oil seals.

If the transmission is automatic, replace the oil with a new one. No flow-through change methods are needed, this is a waste of money. Just drain the oil, unscrew the pan, rinse the filter under pressure and put it back on a new gasket or sealant.

Check everything that can be checked ... the condition of the hoses, the tightness of the connections, the fluid in the hydraulic booster, the brake reservoir, etc. You are now ready for a boost.

Bustap

We mean that the pump has already been replaced. Boostup starts with release. No power release can take place without a co-current outlet. Contrary to popular belief, the release does not "add", but releases the already available capacity. Standard exhaust, including the catalyst, does not allow the exhaust gases to escape at a sufficient speed and therefore the engine is "choked". Our task is to let him "breathe".

The "barrel" of the catalyst must be removed and replaced with a pipe of the correct diameter. Often on such machines there is already an outlet before the catalyst, that is, a pipe with a larger cross-section before this "barrel". The simplest scenario would be to simply remove this barrel and insert a piece of pipe into this place of the transition diameter between the outlet itself and the intake pipe (this is what comes from the turbines). And the best solution would be to replace the intake pipe with a larger diameter. You can either buy a ready-made pipe or make it yourself, since any welder can handle this. You just need to find a thin-walled pipe (2-3mm) and a 90-degree bend and pile a front pipe from this. The outlet section for the boost is recommended from 76 to 80mm. If the entire outlet, including the front pipe, is of this diameter - ideal!

The use of resonators, one or two after the former "barrel" of the catalyst, is recommended to minimize exhaust noise. If this is not possible, use silencers (a plug in the jar that reduces the diameter).

There is an opinion that the front pipe can be left as standard, and then the outlet should be as wide as possible. This is a wrong opinion. In order for the flow rate of the exhaust gases to be maximum (and hence the blowdown), the maximum diameter must be at the beginning of the "track", and not at the end. In the end, on the contrary, you can narrow it down, because the flow rate decreases there.

After installing the release, we get an overboost, that is, pressure peaks will jump to 0.9 bar, in rare cases to 1 bar. Stable pressure will rise from 0.68-0.72 to ~ 0.85. That is, we have already received an increase in power.

Air filter. A very important device. Allows the engine to breathe more freely, as does the exhaust. In our opinion, one of the most perfect and simple ones is Apexi PowerIntake (or SuperIntake). It is easy to buy, maintain and more than adequate. We do not recommend using parallonic "fungi" like HKS, because they are good in Japan, where the roads are washed with shampoo and are clean, but in our country they suck up sand and dust very strongly, which accelerates engine wear at times! If the car came with such a filter, remove it immediately!

As a result of replacing the pump, intake and exhaust, we get about 320 to 330 hp on the 1JZ-GTE (and on the 2JZ-GTE too).

The cheapest ended there. Then spending begins.

Boostcontroller. The thing is very useful as well as dangerous. Difficult to give when choosing specific recommendations. It all depends on the budget. Expensive fancy devices like Apexi AVC-R, Greddy Profec-e01, etc. very good and excellent at regulating boost pressure, fighting overboost, etc., but they are very expensive. Mid-range devices like the Blitz SBC Spec S or R do their job well, and the cost is much more pleasing to the eye. The simplest and cheapest solution is to buy a used one. old-style boost controllers Apexi or HKS EVC. They can be found for $ 100-150 and will do the job just fine, easy to use and reliable. Well, the simplest and cheapest solution is a "water tap" a la hapono-boost controller or mechanical boost. Its whole point is to change the section of the tube, going from the actuator to the turbine volute. By changing the section, you can adjust the pressure. The biggest disadvantage of this approach is the lack of peak control. Electronic boost controllers regulate this cross section several times per second, precisely maintaining the pressure in accordance with the set parameters, but a mechanical device cannot do this, so overboost peaks are inevitable.

With the installation of a boost controller, we can adjust the pressure stably at 0.93 bar, that is, the limit of fuel and ignition maps on a standard computer. A little more pressure and hello overboost and pressure cutoff, car jerking, etc.

Now we have smoothly approached the computer. You can call it whatever you like and ECU and CPU and computer, etc., but the meaning is the same - you need maps for fuel and ignition further than 0.93 bar.

There are several solutions, but the most common is piggyback. That is, it is a "snag" of a standard computer. There are two types of it: a block with a chip inserted into a standard computer of one of the tuning firms, or an external appendage device.

The most common computers are of the first type, with pads. These are Mines, Sard Analyze, Blitz Access, etc. They usually have fuel and ignition maps up to 1.17 bar (standard pressure gauge limit), often more aggressive maps, often removed pressure and speed cutoffs. This is where all the differences from the standard end. By installing such a computer instead of the standard one, you can move at a speed of more than 180 km / h and increase the pressure to 1.17 bar.

The second option is "add-ons". Devices such as HKS FconS or the new SZ, Greddy eManage, etc. They connect along with a standard computer and deceive it. HKS FconS contains maps up to 1.3 bar for fuel and ignition, has its own pressure sensor, but does not have a function to remove the speed limit. That is, it is necessary to separately install a device such as HKS SLD (speed limit defense) for this, and sometimes a device for removing pressure restrictions Greddy BCC (boost cut controller) is also needed. With HKS FconS it is possible to raise the pressure to 1.3 bar for a short time, because such pressure is already destructive for standard turbines, they twist and fail quite quickly. In general, pressure over 1.2 bar for standard turbines is a crime.

HKS FconSZ already removes the speed and pressure limitation and does not require external devices.

Greddy eManage even allows you to adjust fuel and ignition, but is quite expensive and difficult to set up for an inexperienced layman.

Whichever computer you install, you can now safely increase the pressure to 1.2 bar. But it is advisable to do this only for races, because this is an excess voltage for the turbines. It is not recommended to "press" more than 1 bar in everyday mode.

Front-mounted intercooler. A must for a boost. Especially in summer. You can read all its advantages in a separate article on our website, I will not repeat myself.

In this configuration, we get about 380 hp. on 1JZ-GTE and about 400 hp. on 2JZ-GTE. That is, in the presence of a full inlet, outlet, pump, boost controller, computer and frontal intercooler and at a pressure of 1.2 bar.

But. Forces are forces, and many more factors influence acceleration and the result of 400 meters.

Differential. Blocked diff is rare on automatic vehicles. And he is needed very much. They are of two types: disc and mechanical. Mechanical (Thorsen type) is standard on all Dzheyzet with manual transmission and rarely on automatic transmission. Get it, at least used. Is your sacred task. When one wheel slips, it locks the entire axle and accelerates more efficiently. And it affects the handling very, very positively. Disc locks are rare and expensive. It is recommended to buy them new (about $ 1000). Because they contain a package of clutches, and therefore wear out. Purchase used disk lock is pure lottery. Lucky - hurray, unlucky - "sticking" to replace the clutches. Of course, disc blocking locks harder and more efficiently than torsen and is preferable for drag, but very expensive. There are 1way, 1.5 way and 2way disc locks. 1 and 1.5 way are unlocked completely or partially when gas is released, while 2way is a pure drag blocking.

The main couple. A very, very important parameter. The main pair is located in the rear gearbox and is, in simple terms, a large gear. Its ratio of teeth to the "incoming" gear determines the pair. Automatic turbo jazets have a main pair of 3.9, that is, 43 teeth by 11.

We can increase or decrease the pair by changing the size of the wheels. The smaller the wheels, the more steam and vice versa. But in real life, how many of us can pick up a bunch of wheels just like that? Right. Not many people who. Therefore, it is easier to replace this "main" gear. And you can take it from an old charger brand, for example. Available pairs for Jayzets: 4.083, 4.3, 4.556 and 5.0.

4.083 is the maximum pair for Soarers and Supras with different gearboxes. 4.3 can be taken from 4VD atmospheric brand 1JZ-GE, it also happens on charger brands. The pair significantly accelerates acceleration compared to the 3.9 standard pair. Together with the torso, it turns out to be a good solution for every day. 4.556 is quite an extreme pair. Also found on charger stamps, crosses, etc. The turbo lag is almost not felt, the engine revs up much faster, the tires are needed much wider so that there is no terrible slipping. This pair allows boost jazets to easily get out of 14 seconds on quartermile. But for everyday use, it is undesirable ... constantly increased revs have a bad effect on consumption. The 5.0 pair is extremely rare, I deliberately do not say where it occurs. A pair for dangling drag cruisers. We need wide wheels, there is no lag at all, disc lock is desirable. There was a case when a boost jayzet on this pair drove 13.6 at 400m. Draw conclusions.

Slick or road rubber. If you want to visit someone for interest or money, slicks are your indisputable argument. Slick is a kind of rubber, the grip properties of which are much higher than that of road rubber ... and accordingly its wear is much higher. Distinguish between full-fledged drag slicks, slicks without grooves, semi-slick, etc. Drag "cylinders" are very expensive and this is probably not about you. They are impregnated with special compounds, heated with special devices, etc., that is, it is very expensive. Available used slicks such as Nitto, Advan, etc. You don't need to do anything special with them, at the start you just need to warm up. To do this, a few meters before the start, one of your friends should pour a little water under both wheels, and you, holding the brake, press the gas to the floor. There will be a lot of smoke. You need to heat for at least 15 seconds. after warming up, do not abruptly roll to the start, but release the gas, wait until the wheels stop and then get under way, because the transition from slipping to engagement has a very bad effect on the machine. On slicks, the start will be much more efficient and you have every chance to defeat your opponent.

Road rubber can be warmed up as well, but it does not have such grip properties as slicks, but, in any case, starting on heated rubber is more effective.

Start technique. This is probably the most important thing. How clearly you can catch the moment of the start, not fall in speed and get off optimally, so much will depend on your success. When the forces are approximately equal, the start is everything. A "slept" or "failed" driver will no longer be able to catch up, unless it has an overwhelming power advantage.

On an automatic car, after warming up the rubber, try to drive up to the start last, quickly level out so that the rubber does not have time to cool down. It is advisable to hold the brake and gas simultaneously for no more than half a minute, because the transmission fluid in the machine heats up, which leads to the destruction of the clutches. The gas must be dosed, that is, do not press completely all the time. After holding the brake pedal, press the gas to the floor and when the revs reach 2200-2300, release the gas gently so that the revs do not go higher. The properties of a standard torque converter are such that these are its optimum rpm. A little higher and you will fall, a little lower too. Try to keep the RPM in this range. Tighten the handbrake so that the rear wheels do not slip, but keep the button pressed and at the start, sharply lower it down, and the gas pedal sharply to the floor. The rest depends on luck and God.

On manual transmissions, if there is a lock, it is desirable to have wider wheels. It's harder to start here. Of course, it is advisable to get under way from the highest possible speed, so as not to "fail", but the higher the start speed, the larger the axle box. You need to find out the optimum for yourself in advance.

On the automatic transmission, if the torque converter is replaced with a tuning one and the clutches are strengthened, the start is certainly much more effective, but the wheels need wide, and the disc lock is needed so that there is no sea of ​​axle box and little sense.

But the most optimal boost of a jayzet is to make it all-wheel drive. We provide such services now. Read in the Projects section.

It is also advisable to spill the front-mounted intercooler with water before starting to cool it and fill the "honeycomb" with water. This will provide significant cooling during the ride. But pour water not at the start, otherwise you can get under the wheels and cause not only the axle boxes, but also the axle breakdown into a skid.

Read the article in the Section Articles about oil radiators. These are very desirable things on a Jayzet boost.

Well, the more sensors, the better, preferably with warning and memory. Do not buy Autogauge and ProSport sensors, because they serve for beauty and indicate the "mood of the Martians". The best gauges are Greddy and Defi.