DLC-1 diagnostics - Toyota Corolla, 1.6 liter, 2000

They say they won't fit ...

A sea of ​​OBD2 adapters appeared on 24au, even with bluetooth :) The price of the issue is from 1200, only hz. what will they show :)

healthy pribluda, I would like to test my own and look at the expense, otherwise everything with a finger in the sky ...

weolver

I wonder if it will work on 4E-FE?
In the instructions for this program it is written that you need to connect TE1 and E1 and contact No. 5 of the COM port.
I assume that this is a mistake, and you still need to connect TE2 and E1. Right?

Everything works, I did it myself

RusBiT

I kind of used a ceramic 3.3 NF capacitor (nanofarad)

and what is the conduit for?

he seems to be taking off a tip

and without Conder everything works? then it is not required?

you only need two wires, if you have an old connector, jumper E1 with TE2, this is the first, and the second is Vf1

which main wires to poke?

I stuck it in without a conductor and plows everything

and these wires that go vf1 / e1 / Te2 / Te1- connect them all to the connector before diagnostics? or some are not needed?

I kind of used a ceramic 3.3 NF capacitor (nanofarad)

hi tell me kander any suitable? or not 1.5-3.3 nf is a microforat or what? thanks

I did everything as in the instructions. Did it work?

I wonder if it will work on 4E-FE?
In the instructions for this program it is written that you need to connect TE1 and E1 and contact No. 5 of the COM port.
I assume that this is a mistake, and you still need to connect TE2 and E1. Right?

I read it, looked ...
I think we should try! Thank you!
I have 1G-FE, so we'll check)

So your photo has both

So it didn't work ... I have neither Vf1 nor Te2 in the connector (((((
I'm trying to find the answers - what to do and who is to blame ...
Link to the photo of the connector: i15.fastpic.ru/big/2011/0...0337974fafc7d6bce6f3e.jpg
Maybe someone here knows how?

I also have 1g-fe. Have you solved the question?

You can, I have been driving for a year and a half, my bortovik works in this mode, only the check flashes until you start)

there is a suspicion that on left-handed people this is not quite all the same ...
on my 3s-ge pillars, proul, all these contacts are there and everything worked out!

ps - Question

Is it POSSIBLE to drive in this mode?
in the instrushka it is written quite simply and stupidly ... warm up, measure at xx, measure at 2500 ... but what if I want to drive a quarter and record a schedule at the same time? then that the brain in the self-diagnosis mode will somehow affect the operation of the engine?

but you can see the entire cable from start to finish, I don't understand a bit how to assemble

cool! you also need to stir up the cable!

I wonder if it will ride on 1JZ-GE?

still need a program?

wire did. when it was a long time ago ...
I can not find software. on all links the site no longer exists ...

pliz throw off the program on soap or lay it out. I will be very grateful)

[email protected]

Right. Already figured it out :)

Bende-R

If only I would not ask =)
You have pictures for DLC-1, but I need for DLC-3.
This is my connector: s61.radikal.ru/i172/1101/79/e410004b7703.jpg

In my opinion, this is an OBD2 cable, if I'm not mistaken, the most common ... Even bluetooth, they are in abundance.

sorry, I won't help you.

If only I would not ask =)
You have pictures for DLC-1, but I need for DLC-3.
This is my connector: s61.radikal.ru/i172/1101/79/e410004b7703.jpg

like everything is written in pictures :)

Zdarof)

Can you tell me which connectors should be connected to the DLC-3 to make such an adapter?

I've already rummaged the entire Internet - I can't find it ...

No.

This program if there are errors, i.e. some sensor does not work, does it read them?

How did you solve this problem?

People need help!
I made a wire and diagnosed it. I
Injection 3.8 ms
Ignition 10 deg
MAP 39 kPa
Consumption 1 l / h

What could be!
One says the temperature sensor on his device shows EXPENSIVE! =) 80 deg. ahead of time, the fan is triggered from this, the machine is working in heating mode ... changed the sensor ... it also shows. 0o
I showed 96.3
degrees before replacement. After replacement 99 degrees.
All OK!
Another diagnostician's voice fell on the scraper nozzles. DID NOT HELP!

WHO HAS WHAT OPTIONS?
CONSUMPTION 13-15 100 AT + 10 C STREET *

navryatli how to help, it was a long time ago :)

Hello! I assembled the cable ... but when connected, the car does not see!

port in the garage recently seen. I sold my car three years ago

Is the port still in the cabin? Does it interfere with your work?

Did you manage to defeat the increased consumption?

tell me about learning the damper, plz;
I'm also trying to catch the reason for the high consumption - now my car has flown, but there are many. it would be great if you could choose: either economy or speed ...

Dealt with the wild consumption!
1) Learning the throttle valve, I noticed the result only at 4000t.
2) Setting the ignition using a jumper.
The result is noticeable immediately.
You can make it fly and not eat, but it will eat a lot 13-15 litas. And you can do it as it should be and everything will be smooth, not very fast, but economical ... the result in winter -15 -23 is 9-12 litas. 8)

and with increased idle speed did not come across? that maybe I've been racking my head for a year now.

And the knock sensor also changed ... I don’t know what happened to the car, but the ride became different

We must look at the idle speed sensor!
The easiest way to replace it is that it also has its own resource.
the choke also hovers brains, it happens.
I had a case, the speed dropped very slowly and kept high, cleaned everything that could be tuned, set the idle speed. It began to work smoothly, but the problem did not go away,
there are tricks and subtleties.
The first is the Lambda probe in my case, it does not greatly affect the fuel consumption, it greatly influenced the Brain. (Comp)
The brain needs to be taught this is rarely possible for anyone, so I set the ignition with a jumper and trained the throttle valve somewhere there was an article if I find it, I will throw it off.
In short, it helped me, it became all the rules, 10-11 consumption of the 4A-FE 120 horsepower engine, with my driving style is not slow, but my friend doesn’t, I couldn’t even join the computer, apparently the computers changed another computer. My car is generally reduced to a starter error - a computer that he says the scribe gets out and he starts up and stalls and no check does not come out. it is necessary to select a computer for a fault they are different and the modifications of the motors are also sometimes different. I myself have a motor and I have fuel I eat like crazy, but that's another story my computer came to the motor, this is the most important thing.

V toyotaobd.narod.ru/files/Chem407/CT741.zip

Throw off pzhl. Test run for this adapter for soap [email protected]

Morya4oK72

Hello!
Please throw off the program for soap [email protected]
I would be very grateful!
I'll try to contact my car via the k-line adapter!

Do you have T_OBD1? Did you manage to connect via k-line?

thank you friend! =)

toyotaobd.narod.ru/files/Chem407/CT741.zip

Hello!
Please throw off the program for soap [email protected]
I would be very grateful!
I'll try to contact my car via the k-line adapter!

Guys, if it's not difficult for anyone, please discard the link where you can buy an OBD diagnostic wire for my car.

Thanks for the program! That t did not immediately notice that they were spreading ...

Yes. the program on the screenshots differs from the one in the CT741 archive

Hello! Tell me, on the last screen, driving parameters, but I can't find such a button

Ehhh ... It's a pity.

hi no.

Hello! and this program pneuma can be seen?

I'll try.

stranghold

look there was an adapter from dlc1 to obd2 I ordered from ebay, I tried to connect elm327 through it (to no avail), in general, then I made a cable as in the above post, checked it, it works, and after ringing the necessary contacts on dlc1-obd2, inserted it into the corresponding ones from a homemade one into the contacts of the purchased, exhausted everything with electrical tape and went))

So you just had the OBD2 protocol out into the DLC1 connector. It happens.
Therefore, the rewiring helped.

stranghold

look there was an adapter from dlc1 to obd2 I ordered from ebay, I tried to connect elm327 through it (to no avail), in general, then I made a cable as in the above post, checked it, it works, and after ringing the necessary contacts on dlc1-obd2, inserted it into the corresponding ones from a homemade one into the contacts of the purchased, exhausted everything with electrical tape and went))

Those. you need to do this:
1. VF1 to 7 pins
2. E1 and TE2 to 4 and 5 pins that need to be closed
3. B + to 16 pins.
And then connect ELM 327

In fact, if this adapter is connected to obd2-> usb, make usb emulator as a com port, everything should work))

Then why do the Chinese make DLC1 to OBD2 adapters in general?

so that I stupidly insert one end into the diagnostic connector, with a bump in the laptop, and not constantly steamed with three wires near the diagnostic one))

Then why dlc1 to obd2 adapter?

look there was an adapter from dlc1 to obd2 I ordered from ebay, I tried to connect elm327 through it (to no avail), in general, then I made a cable as in the above post, checked it, it works, and after ringing the necessary contacts on dlc1-obd2, inserted it into the corresponding ones from a homemade one into the contacts of the purchased, exhausted everything with electrical tape and went))

How did you manage it?

there is an adapter from dlc1 to obd2, and I made it work just))

stranghold

I'll take a picture)) well, in short, there was an obd2-dlc1 adapter made the cable as in the post) then it means all the contacts according to the scheme I found in dlc1, I rang them with a chain, and at the end of obd2 I inserted it, it turned out that the manual cable got into the obd2 contacts and went out to dlc1 well then a com-usb adapter

Those. Do you have OBD2 and have made DLC1 out of it?

Pardonchto at first did not explain everything correctly))) we do not know how to do it))

Now it is clear :)

I'll take a picture)) well, in short, there was an obd2-dlc1 adapter made the cable as in the post) then it means all the contacts according to the scheme I found in dlc1, I rang them with a chain, and at the end of obd2 I inserted it, it turned out that the manual cable got into the obd2 contacts and went out to dlc1 well then a com-usb adapter

I don’t understand something, but how did you connect everything into one with obd2-dlc1?

hello no, look at the termination I did it, on one end of the dlc-1 on the other usb

Hello everyone, if I understand correctly, you got DLC-1 on one end of the cord, and OBD2 on the other and everything works? And ELM is working?

Hi)) Krasava)) tell me and the ignition should be like that, I just have 10 g)) I also made one but went on, stuck this whole thing into the obd2-> dlc1 adapter (I thought elm327 would work with it)) but no) took an old com at work, cut off the cable, bit off the extra pins (left two) bit off the wires from the power supply, and soldered, at work I found a com usb adapter with 40 cm long, installed firewood, and came home, and with obd2-dlc1, all into one connected)))

apparently the difference in protocols

Hello, I assembled the same cable, tried different capacitors, the result is the same - all sorts of nonsense is produced, on a muffled engine, the rpm is 6500, the speed is 240, what could be the problem? I only made money for the 99th year, I don’t want to work at cross 94 and carina 91

fine! very helpful!

No.

Is it possible to read errors using this program and then delete them?

Ukhtyshka ...

Added to favorites, then I'll do it myself)

greetings did as you do but the program writes the next We are looking for a free line ...
what could mean

Why do you think so?

Judging by the readings of the correction, the lambda does not work

I do not have TE2 in the connector. Can I put other brains? 1993 Toyota Sprinter AE100