HWP from BZ-R instead of drums - Toyota Corolla Levin, 1.6 L, 1998
Finally, I became the proud owner of Bizer rear disc brakes. Huge respect to NVA , thanks to which I believed that it is quite possible to do it myself, in spite of the arguments of all sorts of competent comrades that, they say, haemorrhoids are all and there is zero exhaust! And also many thanks to Slavcha for invaluable help and practical advice :)
But, all in order, I can only say looking ahead - it's worth it!
At my own peril and risk, I ordered the entire set in Vladivostok via the Internet from a completely unfamiliar office. For some reason, I immediately decided that I could not find it in the city, but I didn’t want to contact the local “searchers to order†(on New Year's Eve they tried to sniff me a diffuser 50% more expensive than the existential one).
My order was processed for about a month, and at the beginning of March this set came to me:
- disc rear hubs assembled with a bearing, with ABS sensors
- brake discs
- calipers
- parking
brake cables - brake hoses
- GTZ + vacuum booster
- brake force distributor
As of the state of the left and right set were different, it was noticeable that they were removed from different cars and in different disassembly. The right one was better: the ABS sensor wires were neatly pulled out together with the connector, the section of the hose was plugged with a plug, the cable was in excellent condition + lateral draft as a bonus :)
The left one was apparently removed from the burnt-out car. the plastic holder of the ABS wire was deformed and melted, and the wire was cut off. There was also more rust on it.
But I got new brake hoses and a new parking brake cable (despite the fact that the contract stipulated in the order)
All this lay for more than a month and waited for warming, since there is no buzz whatsoever to poke around in the frozen garage. And all this time I looked at them and licked my lips like a cat on sour cream :)
As soon as it got warmer, I started right away. I decided to start with a bulkhead of the "new" ones. It took several weekends as there were problems with the bolts that secure the side rods. They rusted so much that a weekly soaking (carbokliner and wd-40) did not lead to anything - I tried to unscrew it, broke the head. Instead, I bought a sledgehammer - only after that I managed to extract them. It was possible to use a "grinder", but I practically do not own it.
There was another unpleasant moment. Dismantled the caliper, broke the rail mounting bolt, almost at the root. I had to drill.
Further with the "new" things went faster - disassembled, cleaned, assembled. I gave the brake discs to the groove (many thanks to Max for help with this)
Before
After
With the "old", as expected, there was the same trouble. There was a hope that they would surrender without a fight. Therefore, he wrapped it with tape and filled the cavity with a carbokliner. When everything flowed out, I realized that this was Sisyphean labor.
I decided to take advantage of three holiday days off: I unscrewed the rack, the longitudinal rods, turned it to a horizontal position and left it to soak for three days. Did not help.
Therefore, I went along the beaten path. The next weekend, I unscrewed the transverse rods on the other side and removed them with them.
Some eccentrics with the letter "m" put the bolts on the wrong side - they rested against the gas tank when removing. To extract them, I had to unscrew four more.
And then everything follows the knurled pattern: wd-40 + sledgehammer and voila! The last bolt didn't even crumple :)
There was also a parking lot with an ABS sensor. Initially, I planned to splice the cut wire, but it turned out that the sensors of the "old" and "new" are the same. The currents sit very tightly - they pulled them out with pliers with the risk of breaking the case.
The rest turned out to be simple. I put the hubs, discs, screwed on the calipers with hoses and cables. I steamed a little with the latter attaching to the handle - the hole is short and not deep, it is inconvenient to climb.
And this is what happened:
It remained only to pump - thanks to Pashka for the help - and off you go!
First impressions - braking is more efficient, predictable and more consistent. And one more unexpected effect - the car became faster! Apparently, the drums slowed down badly, but permanently :)
In general, nothing complicated, the lion's share of the time was spent on disassembling the connections and preparing, the active phase took a little more than one day. On occasion, I will get out to the service for diagnostics - to finally make sure that everything is in order. I will pre-replace the current GTZ:
The next bifurcation point was passed successfully - you can seriously think about 4A-GE BT.
The hands did not reach the distributor. But apparently the moment has come - winter is coming, and the car has just been dismantled. Thanks for reminding :)
levin24
Exactly! I was the same surprised when I saw. It is not clear why the additional contact area was neglected.
Thank you! I certainly do not ride around the ring and in a drag. But the difference is felt. If earlier, after an hour of active driving around the city with sharp braking, the efficiency dropped significantly - the brakes became wadded, but now I do not notice this :) Although only a week has passed - maybe something else will come out. Therefore, I want to go to the service - to see the effect in numbers :)
Efficiency from HST in abundance. It is no coincidence that the swap kit included a different (its own for HWP) brake force distributor regulator. With an old drum, it overbrakes the backside. Hope it's replaced too?
By the way, I read that on VAZs with the collective farm installation of HWP! by a third the area of ​​the pads to avoid overbraking.
Yes, the usual check of the chassis. It includes a brake test on a special stand. The car is alternately placed with the front and rear wheels on rotating rollers, the brakes are pressed (the handbrake is pulled) and the resistance to rotation is measured. The report builds a graph for each wheel. This way you can make sure that the brake system is working properly.
Exactly! I was the same surprised when I saw. It is not clear why the additional contact area was neglected.
Thank you! I certainly do not ride around the ring and in a drag. But the difference is felt. If earlier, after an hour of active driving around the city with sharp braking, the efficiency dropped significantly - the brakes became wadded, but now I do not notice this :) Although only a week has passed - maybe something else will come out. Therefore, I want to go to the service - to see the effect in numbers :)
on the penultimate photo something I did not understand, it turns out that the pads do not rub with the entire plane of the disc?
good idea to install, how is the effect felt?
Yeah, much nicer :)
Of course there was a need. When you need to quickly get around the city from point A to point B, you often have to accelerate and brake just as often. But if the brakes are tight, then nothing will come of overclocking.
And yet, replacing the drums is one of the stages of preparation for the engine swap with a more powerful one.
Thank you :)
I have front-wheel drive. Disc brakes are needed because, unlike drum brakes, they better fulfill their purpose (they slow down, that is, :) due to a different design, and as a result, better cooling. Therefore, with them, the braking process becomes more predictable, efficient and uniform.
The price tag turned out to be not cheap - 18 sput with delivery from Vladik.
I ordered the GTZ from BZ-R for several reasons - 1. there is an opinion that it is more productive than my stock (subjectively felt), 2 - so as not to steam with vacuum lines when swaping to black, on my stock - one from the intake manifold, and on blacke two lines - from "2 cylinders".
tell me what's in finance. did the kit cost exactly how much?
and why do you need a new GTZ, won't it take out the stock?
I agree ... I apologize ... well, I blunt ... I threw the wrong link :))))
Here is a photo where there is no motor: s016.radikal.ru/i337/1011/80/5643f59b2f03.jpg
She was a post above :)))
So where is the motor? :)
Duc and I mean the same ... but the photo shows that there is no motor under the hood ... that's the question: where are you going? Just a question :)
under this link s010.radikal.ru/i312/1011/53/2df68bb0fe9b.jpg I have a photo of the brake force distributor.
Well, you gave a link "... If you look closely s010.radikal.ru/i312/1011/53/2df68bb0fe9b.jpg ..."
There is no motor in the photo :) where are you going?
levin24
In the picture, in a red circle :)
s016.radikal.ru/i337/1011/80/5643f59b2f03.jpg
and the motor then where to go? :)
If you take a closer look at s010.radikal.ru/i312/1011/53/2df68bb0fe9b.jpg,
then there are embossed numbers on the case (not what is written in white). These numbers seem to just mean the distribution values. I don’t know how to interpret them, but at least they differed on the distributor that I had and the one from the bizer.
I can find my stock in the garage and send you a photo - compare, if the numbers are the same, then it has not been changed.
Damn, I have a dilemma, how do I know if they are not signed? outwardly there are differences?
tell me where is the distributor? I got the car with swap disc brakes, but looking at the build quality, something tells me that they didn't bother with the regulator and the GTZ ...
Sashkozavr
Tell me, if not to prepare for a swap, but just change to disk ones, will the idea come out just as non-budget? :)
You can get to 15,000. Right now, my friend is collecting such a kit :)
You can not take the GTZ + vacuum cleaner, although they say that the BZ-R has it more productive. And the price tag is how you will find spare parts. They did not cost me on a budget, since I ordered them in Vladik.
Tell me, if not to prepare for a swap, but just change to disk ones, will the idea come out just as non-budget? :)