SENSORS need advice! - Toyota Corolla, 1.8 L, 2003

Thanks for the detailed answer =) I didn't seem to write about the turbo timer here ... here about other sensors. The new car has a "turbo timer" for 5 minutes

aka-mazai

I disagree =) it depends on what time it is not to turn off ... after driving normal at 3000-4000 thousand, the oil heats up, right ?! We stopped, the speed dropped ... accordingly, the friction became less, the oil heats up when you stand because the piston group gives it its heat ... if you stand for a long time, of course, the engine will heat up without blowing, the radiator will work =)

еще один момент, не остужать масло… мы едем допустим зимой, температура масла 100-120 градусов, кстати посомтри на картинку вверху про баланс температуры, тут бац остановились…заглушили, температура резко начнет падать, это думаешь тоже хорошо?! отсюда масло будет коксоватся и нагар. Или я не прав?!

Еще машины с турбинами, зря что ли турботаимер тот же придумали?! вот дураки =) турбина чем принципиально от ДВС отличается?! там тоже масло есть… те же термические процессы

All these durbo timers are made primarily because of these turbines themselves, even judging by the name it can be understood. But this is not for the sake of oil cooling in a normal atmosphere. The whole point is only in the turbine, if there is none, then you can not stand still and cool the oil. This is all a waste of time. The only thing is not to shut down when the revolutions have not yet dropped to idle. Fell down, that's all, it means you can jam. And then many have a habit of releasing gas up to 5 thousand. and suddenly turn off the ignition. This is really bad! And the turbines "die" due to the fact that they did not heat up much over 100g. and then the engine was turned off sharply. On the turbine, there is generally an average temperature of 600g. What comes out in the end? The turbine has stopped rotating, the oil on it is very hot and the turbine is all hot. Oil on the "snail" begins to burn and at the same time turns into small microparticles of a solid base. Further, the engine has cooled down, everything has cooled down. We come to the car, start up, and then these very small particles get into the bearings, etc. and begin to reduce the life of the turbine. From once Of course, nothing will happen, but if you do this all the time, then the turbine of 100 thousand km is no longer moving away for sure. Therefore, all turbo timers, etc., are done in order to cool the turbine itself in the first place. Note that the timer runs for an average of 1.5-2 minutes. During this time, the oil will drop in temperature from 115 to 105 and the car will stall! That is 105! So that's a lot too! Ahh, no, but the turbo will really cool down and all of the above will not happen! And yet, a quick ignition off or "hot shutdown" creates fast transients and temperature drops in the turbine and reduces the life of the "snail". It is easier with the atmosphere on the motor with this matter. You can jam almost immediately. Well, so that your conscience does not torment you, you can stand for 30 seconds and then only after "hot" sprints, and so on. In general, the engine oil pressure sensor is a good thing, but for the atmosphere of the engine, first of all, it is needed in order not to torment the engine when it is cold. I don't have this sensor, but having traveled by cars with it, I understood. That I can only "light" after the coolant arrow will stand in the "middle" for 10 minutes! And 15 minutes when the air temperature is below 20g. I noticed and noticed that by this time the oil warms up to 70g. which means you can "fry". I read that oils (modern) start to "work" after 70g.

this is not a race =) this is a training session ... for a race, a maximum of 5-7 laps,
about 7 minutes race.
And the training session is 15 minutes ... that's what they do in training, I said figuratively. Usually they knock down five circles, two cool down - the sensor is needed =)

so what kind of race is this then? :)

... ahh. Well, I would say right away =) of
course, in civilian mode, I won't be able to heat up the oil ... that's the point. Let synthetics be better for the ring, but because of the rare pokatushki give an extra thousand from the canister =) I'd rather go on the sensor along the ring and prevent high overheating ... 2-3 laps fry then cool down the circle

Damn, I have a sensor, and I see that the oil heats up more at idle.

about coke, first of all, well, I doubt sooo that you will be able to heat the oil to 120 outside the track. secondly, at 120 there can be no coke. the coke will come from the subcooled oil, not from the overheated one. thirdly, it is the turbine that is cooled in the turbo, since the revolutions there are not 6 thousand as in your engine, but for 25 thousand. therefore there is the strongest overheating.

I disagree =) it depends on what time it is not to turn off ... after driving normal at 3000-4000 thousand, the oil heats up, right ?! We stopped, the speed dropped ... accordingly, the friction became less, the oil heats up when you stand because the piston group gives it its heat ... if you stand for a long time, of course, the engine will heat up without blowing, the radiator will work =)

one more thing, do not cool the oil ... we are going, let's say in winter, the oil temperature is 100-120 degrees, by the way, look at the picture above about the temperature balance, then bam stopped ... drowned out, the temperature will start to drop sharply, do you think that is also good ?! from here the oil will be coke and soot. Or am I wrong ?!

More cars with turbines, in vain that the same turboimer was invented ?! here are fools =) the turbine is fundamentally different from the internal combustion engine ?! there is also oil ... the same thermal processes

aka-mazai

right. Oil pressure is the most variable parameter ... everything else is for turbo and writhing. I often stop after an active ride… I don't go out for a few minutes to cool the oil, but I will keep an eye out! And it will be useful in winter too

here you are absolutely wrong. During this time, the oil heats up much more, because the sump is not blown out and the oil circulates slowly. this is the first thing. and secondly, why cool it down?

And I have such a system on my wheelbarrow, I drove it, I move the wilderness and it does not stall until I put it on the whitefish. type of turbo timer eh! in general it is useful at times, it gives the movement a rest.

right. Oil pressure is the most variable parameter ... everything else is for turbo and writhing. I often stop after an active ride… I don't go out for a few minutes to cool the oil, but I will keep an eye out! And it will be useful in winter too

I will put sensors myself, exactly the same questions as yours :) But I have definitely decided that the most important of them will be the one responsible for the oil temperature.

guys, if there is an opportunity for the specialists, discard this link ... otherwise I have already climbed the whole Internet about, there is some opinion, but I'm not sure that it is 100% correct

Well, I am puzzled ... Here I am not an advisor =)

the characteristics show the base of the oil, whether it is synthetic or not. 0v40 is definitely pure synthetics, because the takeoff run is great. and on 0v30 it is already necessary to look at the models.

what do you agree with ?! =)

By the way, it will also be possible to look at the operating modes with the sensor as the oil warms up ... synthetics or semi-synthetics.
I think that you need to look not at the base of the oil ... what do you think that there is no mineral base in the jar where fullsynthetic is written ?! you are wrong. If an examination is carried out, then we have very little pure synthetics ...

It's just that semi-synthetics will grow faster than synthetics - that's a fact, but I'm not a greyhound either. 7-8 thousand and change the oil! And even earlier

tim-38

are you going to install the oil cooler? no? then nafig you don't need sensors, here is my main advice. I do not think that it heats the oil very much, pour some normal synthetics B40 on the ring and do not worry at all.

But in general, China makes quite normal sensors, and no overpayment for the brand.

also by the way agree!

the fact that the temperature does not heat up, you can say thanks to the oil cooler ...
I kind of heard that your engines are without modifications and 130-140 are heated =)

1nz poltorashka on Wits, without a cooler 120
set the cooler ... dropped about 70 degrees Less work (put a cardboard box), though in the summer heat it will be fine! We still went to Taimatt so it wasn't hot

in the city I tried to heat up the oil for the most part. the oil cooler was completely closed with a cardboard, the gas brake mode, the speed is either 5-8 thousand, or idle at the traffic light. all I could was 105. and your engine is also more modern, so I don't think your oil is warming up.

it is verified by experience that the oil is heated to such a temperature ... by those who drive with sensors! You will try soon =) Driving mode then 4000-6000 thousand constantly

I'll think about another oil ... otherwise I started to eat up something a little =) it's time the viscosity is thicker

firstly, the factory is designed for the average rider.
about 13 cst, you say above that you heat for 110-120, at this temperature it will just be 10k. although I am personally sure that you will not warm up to 110 degrees. even on the track. therefore it is 0v30 that you fill in. and the synthetic base is definitely better. the fact that we used to go on a mineral water does not say anything. before and put cameras in the wheels.

only when choosing an oil, turn to ACEA, you cannot fill A5. best of all A3, A4.

yes, I understand everything =) these engines just have their own specifics ...
they have good heat transfer, it is difficult to overheat it. Why did you decide that mineral oil is bad ?! Previously, they used to run on such oils and nothing.
0-40 oil itself is better in terms of characteristics ... but it has a kinematic viscosity at 100 degrees of about 13 cSt, despite the fact that all oil channels of the engine as well as the VVTAI clutch are set to work at a viscosity of 10 cSt. I checked it myself, drove at the beginning on oil 5-50… the engine felt bad.

0-30 is certainly good, I went to this in winter, I see no reason to pay twice for oil in summer.

Explain to me why the original Toyota semi-synthetic oil 5-30 ?!
and it is poured into ALL engines, turbo, atmosphere, forced ... and normal. Or do you think that they recommend something at the factory ?! =)
let's delegate

start over. overheating of the oil will not lead to anything. this time. do not confuse this with the temperature of antifreeze. secondly, 5v30 is SEMI-synthetics, that is, even worse than a hydrocrack. you do not need the flash point in an open crucible, it works for waste. b40 is not spelled out, but! 0v40 will have exactly a synthetic base that is not afraid of overheating. that is, up to 120, you can definitely safely warm it up, but you won't be able to get higher. damn, I already ate the dog on this, listen to me, and, also save.

if you want to listen to recommendations, find 0v30 which synthetic thread with good characteristics.

tim-38

are you going to install the oil cooler? no? then nafig you don't need sensors, here is my main advice. I do not think that it heats the oil very much, pour some normal synthetics B40 on the ring and do not worry at all.

But in general, China makes quite normal sensors, and no overpayment for the brand.

B40 is not spelled out either ... I have semi-synthetics 5-30 with a flash point of only 207 degrees =) and I do not plan to change the oil

I'm planning to put a maloculler + sensor on the Witz and that's the only way!

duck that's it =) I'll see what the temperature is ... and from this I will conclude about the oil cooler or thermostat ...

here you also understand the specificity of these motors of new sockets. It seems to keep the temperature balance well, from the factory they put it BUT when overheating the cylinder can change its diameter =) there are a number of such cases. That is, they are afraid of overheating! I’m not an enemy to my car…
I’d better put a sensor for 2 sput and know what’s happening there, this is a resolved issue already - what will I then give 15-20 rubles for a new engine…

Artem, tell me which sensors are normal ?! I understand that they can show parameters no worse than defi ... the construction is simple

are you going to install the oil cooler? no? then nafig you don't need sensors, here is my main advice. I do not think that it heats the oil very much, pour some normal synthetics B40 on the ring and do not worry at all.

But in general, China makes quite normal sensors, and no overpayment for the brand.

tim-38

who told you that semisynthetics are better when heated? complete nonsense. the synthetic base is much more resistant to heat.

Moreover, in all the manuals you will not find a single postscript on what basis to pour oil!
There goes the production standard. SM SL

Syntheics have an undeniable advantage - it is more durable =) so that a person can fill it in and remember thousands in 10-15

I don’t know that at all. fair

… okay. Then tell me why TRD 5w-40 semi-synthetic oil ?! =)
I figuratively expressed that it is fat ... I don't know at all =)
I will put the sensor and check what kind of oil is being heated ...

because mineral water is cheaper, therefore the original oil is mineral water.
and why do you need a thick film? these are friction losses. thick does not mean shear resistant.

If we compare oils of the same viscosity, let's say 5-30. That mineral-based oils keep the temperature better ... at operating temperature, the mineral water film will be thicker, and the synthetic water is thinner (because the synthetic water is poured in the winter that it freezes less). Can't you catch the logic ?!
Why are mineral-based oils not recommended in winter ... because in the frost they tan, oak-fur coat =) that is, they have a bad attitude to negative temperatures ... from which we conclude that it is preferable to pour mineral-based oils in the warm season ... I still learned this on the old six =) try filling it with synthetics in the summer ... It is clear that the Japanese are another matter! Well then, explain to me why, over the past 10 years, exactly the original Toyota oil on a mineral basis and only ?!

aka-mazai

At what price is STRI ?!

about oil it is clear, but the specificity of the engine is that efficiency drops at 50 oil… oil channels are thin. And insert the coupling more than 30, the viscosity does not pass well = (
in general, there is no way to fill it thicker ... I just have semi-synthetics, it feels better when heated than synthetics. I will just follow the sensor

who told you that semisynthetics are better when heated? complete nonsense. the synthetic base is much more resistant to heat.

oil temperature from 3520 like (depending on design)

If so with oil, then yes, just change the output more often

At what price is STRI ?!

about oil it is clear, but the specificity of the engine is that efficiency drops at 50 oil… oil channels are thin. And insert the coupling more than 30, the viscosity does not pass well = (
in general, there is no way to fill it thicker ... I just have semi-synthetics, it feels better when heated than synthetics. I will just follow the sensor

As for the sensors, I myself can not yet decide which ones I need. I want to put 3 pieces on the podium in the center, and one of them is exactly the oil temperature, while I think about the rest.
Of the companies that make sensors, I will most likely choose STRI. According to reviews as defi and design and quality at altitude, IMHO.

And I also think that the oil for the ring should be more viscous, for example, B50, because when heated, the viscosity becomes about 10 kV less, and the higher the viscosity, the better the film holds and the less risk of overheating due to the lack of the latter

aka-mazai

for example, the temperature has an error of 10 degrees =)

Dohera!

right!

10 degrees is space =) you can pay for them with the price of an engine ...

Here at our ring, from time to time, cars are taken away in tow trucks, dvigtalei do not stand up ... well, this is also not a big deal. Arrive there and take 15-30 minutes without a break =)

aka-mazai

for example, the temperature has an error of 10 degrees =)

it's a bit too much anyway ...

one hundred%)

… Heh =) I don’t know. Ask Misha what he has now =) I wrote to him, he doesn't answer ... I think he put something in Japanese.

I changed with Misha for them! He said that they definitely show!

Where did you get them ?!
could have come with a car from Japan

ok) I'll sort it out again, we can read it on the other hand, I'll throw a photo on my topic!

xs. =) open the auction ... maybe the dials are different

How to determine?

autogag may be Japanese ...

I go with an auto-run and I don't know any problems.

Gizmon

Che, then all Auto Gage crumples (
I can't connect my own!
I read it here and began to bother about sensors myself!

for example, the temperature has an error of 10 degrees =)

well, this is the simplest Chinese version

Real-men

I got the autogage for free.
measure boost ... 0.7 shows =)
but should be 0.8-0.9.
but what a backlight ... mmmmmmmm

Che, then all Auto Gage crumples (
I can't connect my own!
I read it here and began to bother about sensors myself!

well, I understood it: 0

I'm not for the sake of beauty =) I need purely functional ...

I got the autogage for free.
measure boost ... 0.7 shows =)
but should be 0.8-0.9.
but what a backlight ... mmmmmmmm

Thank you =) I will consider

Do not take the Swoosh ... Shows true, but makes a terrible buzz when the arrow moves. I had such a boost, my whole brain was buzzing ... I took it off in the end.

why is electronic better ?!
I will go in reverse order ... if there is a problem with heating, I will think about the cooler.
What I'll take I'll write off

Hello! I don’t even know what to say about the sensors, except that the electronic one is better. It would also be nice to combine the installation of the sensor together with the installation of the oil cooler, with the oil cooler and spacers for the sensor are not rare ... and I did a little work on cooling the oil without an additional radiator. I also care about this question. can you write it down, when you finish ...

well, I have a maximum of 125 so far)

and how much does it show the temperature in the spacer ?!

I have screwed into the spacer at the filter. The sensor spacer itself is not very expensive, about a thousand.

I'm not scared =) as far as I understood the mechanical show the temperature faster and more clearly

the question is where to put it ?! sensor

Omori is time-tested, don't be afraid that they are mechanical.

all that is new ... there are no reviews strongly =)
I will still try to get some japan ... do not defy, well, at least omori

Ovlsch is not a vegetable, no one wants to throw out a
motor ) digital, it means that they look like numbers, not arrows, here
www.gtextreme.ru/forum/showthread.php?t=23082

I understand you =) but I still have the same vegetable ... I defy chickens to laugh
I'm not talking about China. Those that I chose not from the cheap segment ... 2-4 thousand, I think this is no longer a dummy. Svash has a 2-3 percent error

if there is a link?
what does digital mean? not analog

When I took the sensors, I didn't even ask myself such questions, but took Defi. And I don't think I overpaid, I paid for confidence and reliability.
All these Chinas are suitable only to form a general picture, but in the conditions of the ring, when the oil temperature exceeds 130, an error of 10 degrees can become fatal.
Look, we at gtextrim now offer very accurate sensors for your budget, but they have a minus, they are digital.

SWOOSH 68 Series take this one from the whole list I liked this one =)

I followed your advice =) I don’t know what will happen ...
but I suffered for a long time, my svash too Nitsche so ... I already contacted the dealers

Japanese car - Japanese tuning

Yab advised the current Omori! price quality, if you take! but by the way SWOOSH are not bad, and not expensive. but a reasonable choice, if you need accuracy, then omori. and by the way, the metric is also a very good company, also high quality sensors.

It's hard to say ... no experience. I just read on the forums, what conclusions I made!
Very rarely did anyone write about the setting ... and no one wrote to mine about the temperature sensor at all. Although many have checked the accuracy of the readings! all right

Regular verification and calibration is completely for metrological pedants. (^_^)

Exhaustive =) Thank you very much.
I'm not a fetishist, the accuracy of the reading is important to me.
By the way, mechanical omori were put on the Nissan GTR from the factory ... to this day they drive, nothing is calibrated there

If you don't wrap yourself too much, then everyone is good, except for the Chinese ones (their sensors are bullshit, very often poorly calibrated, not always, but often), but this is purely my personal opinion about China. Mechanic-electric, differ from electronic ones in that they are connected directly to the sensor and do not have the ability to memorize readings, signal lamps ... sometimes there are, but primitive (they will not use bad ones, just a weak diode working for short / open), electronic, more expensive, there is their advantages, almost always come with an intermediate controller, which allows you to minimize the error, memorize the data to set peak values, the dials themselves ... are almost identical to their electric-analog counterparts, except, as they show more accurately, the filling ... is practically the same, the stepper drive reacts to electric impulses, only less noisy, or rather generally silent. The main feature, in any case, is the thermistor itself, the more platinum it contains, the more expensive it is, the more expensive the device set itself. If you look objectively, then the offices producing measuring instruments must have certificates of conformity for these products, otherwise they will not be allowed for sale, etc. and other paper-organizational tinsel. In general, if you are not a hostage of a fetish (Defi, HKS and other watering cans gangs), then any kit will do. By the way, if second-hand, then electronic is better, mechanics over time gives errors (again, it is necessary to calibrate) and in general they must be verified every year for good (absolutely good), electronic is permissible once every three years (who ever verified them? !) then the offices producing measuring instruments must have certificates of conformity for these products, otherwise they will not be allowed for sale, etc. and other paper-organizational tinsel. In general, if you are not a hostage to a fetish (Defi, HKS and other watering cans gangs), then any kit will do. By the way, if second-hand, then electronic is better, mechanics over time gives errors (again, it is necessary to calibrate) and in general they must be verified every year for good (absolutely good), electronic is permissible once every three years (who ever verified them? !) then the offices producing measuring instruments must have certificates of conformity for these products, otherwise they will not be allowed for sale, etc. and other paper-organizational tinsel. In general, if you are not a hostage to a fetish (Defi, HKS and other watering cans gangs), then any kit will do. By the way, if second-hand, then electronic is better, mechanics over time gives errors (again, it is necessary to calibrate) and in general they must be verified every year for good (absolutely good), electronic is permissible once every three years (who ever verified them? !)

I agree. I just got carried away with the promotion of high technologies, completely forgetting about the essence of this topic. (-_ ^)

PS - but personally I like electronic ones more (^_^)

Abe

So, it's still capillary.
Primitive and somehow not reliable ... but - this is my personal opinion.

you know there is such a saying! the more simple, the better :)) it's like our cars, they are simple, they don't have any super electronics, like on current cars! and now all cars are crammed with electronics, and break down more often than our cars 25 years ago. and about sensors. Omori have been around for years and don't care. and electronic ones burn out a lot, or else it will refuse there many cases! so it is primitive but reliable! ... and the Japanese know this, it is not for nothing that they prefer them. but you can't argue with them, since all this came from them.

The question of preference is rather a spiritual part, someone tried it, someone liked it, now the public opinion has developed, then more, "... oh yes, there is also an attractive price ..." and it rushed around the world. All this is taste, someone likes Toyota, someone Honda. Electronic components in their mass have already reached the level that allows them to receive data with the minimum errors and with the maximum speed.
It seems to me that while both generations of measuring devices are on the same level, but this is only for now ... (^_^)

Why, then, do these Omori love them ?! =)

vagur

There is no thermocouple there, it is essentially a hefty thermometer, the tube is filled with a liquid such as alcohol, and the arrow moves from its expansion / contraction.

So, it's still capillary.
Primitive and somehow not reliable ... but - this is my personal opinion.

vagur

There is no thermocouple there, it is essentially a hefty thermometer, the tube is filled with a liquid such as alcohol, and the arrow moves from its expansion / contraction.

the person speaks correctly. in omori everything is as he said!

Well, I specifically broke OMORI in her alcohol-containing liquid fact, tk. I will not confuse the smell of alcohol :))))) what is there in others, I don’t know

... someone wrote that it was not even alcohol, but some kind of gas inside

There is no thermocouple there, it is essentially a hefty thermometer, the tube is filled with a liquid such as alcohol, and the arrow moves from its expansion / contraction.

It can not be. Too aggressive operating conditions. Rather, there is a thermocouple.
Pressure sensors, the same are different, maybe with an electrical converter, or maybe like a pressure gauge with a capillary tube.

Well, yes it turns out ... this is the difference between mechanical ones. They have corrugated tubes to the alarm clock, as I understand it ... look at the photos. It turns out, as it were, Analog signal =)
From the reviews I read that there are tubes interrupted or something else ... let's say the oil pressure sensor is filled with oil (oil is essentially supplied to the salon).
And there are a lot of such sensors, greddy and others produced such sensors ...

And as you know, all manufacturers in this century strive to reduce the cost of production, to simplify. This is observed in all industries! Therefore, I think it is cheaper to make an electric sensor, all of them are made ...

vagur

I had OMORI too, showed it perfectly, with an accuracy of 1 degree with the ECU readings. Also machinical. Minus one, the inconvenience of installation, there is essentially a copper tube in the hose, if you damage the sensor for emission.

As a result of a long search, I settled on American AutoMeter

You want to say that there is a capillary sensor?

clear. In terms of accuracy, the Japanese have everything in order ... the fact that a copper tube is of course a little fearful, well, nothing. How much for an autometer?

I had OMORI too, showed it perfectly, with an accuracy of 1 degree with the ECU readings. Also machinical. Minus one, the inconvenience of installation, there is essentially a copper tube in the hose, if you damage the sensor for emission.

As a result of a long search, I settled on American AutoMeter

in the oil filler plug, in my opinion, is better and more reliable, there will be no pressure. Do you have a normal clearance in the same place? I don't know where you have a plug ...
from your presented OMORI sensors, I think the best, since the defi does not fit your budget ... and the Omori sensor was once installed in stock on the GTR 32, which means it is very good and reliable and accurate ... the Japanese are not fools, they check everything ...

the car is underestimated, but the bottom protection is worth ... by the way, let's see what size the sensor will be =)
here you see what the question is, in theory, the temperature in the crankcase will be less than at the top of the engine ... experiments were carried out on this matter.

I also tend to Omori, all the same, I still have all the spare parts / tuning made in japan on my car =)

+1 uh huh

in the oil filler plug, in my opinion, is better and more reliable, there will be no pressure. Do you have a normal clearance in the same place? I don't know where you have a plug ...
from your presented OMORI sensors, I think the best, since the defi does not fit your budget ... and the Omori sensor was once installed in stock on the GTR 32, which means it is very good and reliable and accurate ... the Japanese are not fools, they check everything ...

A native standby sensor is always on one division ... it rises slightly when the summer is warm, the radiator is triggered! And the coolant temperature is lower, all the same, by its property it duplicates the oil ... it shows how hot the engine is!

Oil pressure sensor

With this sensor, serious engine problems can be immediately recognized. If the oil pressure drops, it may indicate a breakdown of the oil pump. Alternatively, the oil seals let the oil out through them, which can cause the oil pressure to drop too.

The mechanical question is also very tormented ...

Here are the opinions: the
advantages of mechanical sensors, they are more reliable and durable, minus Omori that there is no warning! and their clarity is normal, not inferior to anything defi, etc. they are mechanical because they are taken into account, there is no control unit, and the arrow does not work from a magnet, as on electronic sensors, but there is a special liquid for sachets.

yes, mechanical sensors are not as fragile as electronic ones. the main thing is that the tube from them is not where it is not broken.

On the drome, many advise Omori ... and mechanical ones too. During installation, as I understood the problem ... let's say a mechanical oil pressure sensor ... it's a copper tube that fits the sensor =) that is, oil in the cabin

Prices are different, but here it is for your budget. Exhaust t sensor, you don't need it now at all. I would put a coolant sensor with numbers, because "in the standard" nothing is plainly visible. And you, as you say, need to track accurate readings.
As for the crush sensor ... I will not say anything, because let the knowledgeable people write better.
By the way, the question is ripe, maybe someone will answer. What is the difference between mechanical and electronic sensors? pros and cons. Well, besides the fact that the principle of action is different.

Omori and Defi the price is at times different =)

initially I only need an oil temperature sensor ... to assess the degree of "valilov" on the ring =) coolant sensor is standard, I see no reason to put it ... there is a
tachometer too! Temperature sensor exhaust gases ... I think this is more for turbocharged cars and with global tuning the necessary information, I have the finalization of the car at the final stage =) Stage 1 level

There is also an oil pressure sensor, but I guys don't even know ... how much is it needed ?! what will he give me ?!

In principle, everything has already been described above! Omori or Defi. This is exactly the answer to your question. First of all, when you buy these sensors, you pay for the accuracy of the readings, and then for the brand. I do not argue for the brand there, too, is rather robust.

I didn't get it a little, do you just want to install the oil sensor?

Autogogi I wrote that Nizachto =) it's expensive ... Omori took

here autoGOGS are definitely threshing floor, you shouldn't even stare at them, they hang so for beauty =) Defi, as far as I know, the best both from reviews and in general in quality

... unfortunately the budget is limited = (first of all, the functionality is important ... just monitor the oil temperature

Or maybe go broke a little and buy a defi link meter (or whatever it is called). one electronic board on which all readings from all sensors are displayed, in my opinion, it costs $ 500

I will have everything clear =)

you turn on the stove to the fullest, here's the cooling =))

I'll see what you have interesting to show, maybe then I'll take it too :)

Yes, it has not grown together =) or sent it… the light bulb never blinked!
the radiator is understandable ... you still need to control it, you put one over there, the temperature dropped below the working temperature

Of course, hell knows how serious everything is with you = :), but protection from the fool, in your cases from overheating of the oil, is on every car. When the temperature rises, the oil loses its viscosity and when it overheats, the oil pressure warning lamp will work. Moreover, it may not necessarily be on, but just blink slightly! Wash it like that! = :)
Or if you really really want to cool, regardless of the temperature, do not throw money away just like that, add 8 thousand and buy a normal oil cooler.

Thank you. I heard about the metric, unfortunately this car has already been sold ... I didn't have time to put the sensors

because of the oil, too, a lot of things depend more precisely because of the brand of oil in turbo cars it is necessary to pour good oil, like ENOS, because crappy oil after good pokatushek becomes very thin and oh, how bad it is (and there is a firm metric for sensors and accurate readings! other sensors of the Shomi type are also normal errors are very small so do not worry, buy sensors in the region of 1-2 thousand, preferably I use the metric myself and do not break off

will stop of course! an overheated motor is a bunch of money

I certainly do not scoff! But if the driver notices that the coolant rate is critical, he will quit the race and stop ?! or the turbine will overheat! They have a goal first and they don't give a damn about their testimony! DEFI BLIZAR sensors, etc., these sensors are needed for swap cars!

Hi) Sorry, yesterday I was impressed by the sensors, I didn't even notice that this was the very first car))))

changed the car for a long time… several times =) failed to deliver. can be found at Japanese auctions or disassembly

Hello! I myself faced a similar problem, the choice is huge, and what to choose is a dilemma ... I settled on mechanical Omori. Have you already set yourself? Tell me where you can find these?