Cut off the cut-off - Toyota Aristo, 3.0 L, 1994
To say that the speed cutoff at 180 km / h infuriated me is to say nothing, but the last straw was the dusty ass of a Mercedes E220, from which I first flew dashingly, but was shamefully overtaken after 180))) Here I sit and look powerlessly on the slowly receding nameplate E220 ... Mlyn needs to do something))
On the same day, a snag Greddy Speed ​​Limiter CUT was bought, then a diagram of Arista's brains was downloaded from the Internet. And here I am, on the floor of my car, staring at a huge wiring harness, the diagram says red ... but how much red it doesn’t say, but in the harness there are at least 3 wires that can be called red to varying degrees ... I check the pinout, like this red ... I connect ... Let's go test! Slipper to the floor 160, 170, 180, iiiiiii cutoff ... blah ... I brake, switch snag in a different way, test, again not luck, and so 10 times in various variations, all to no avail. And now, having reconnected everything as it was for the first (most correct) time, I accelerate the car, and again the cutoff, wait ... why does the bypass work? After all, it works only when the damper is lowered, that is, if I release the gas pedal, or ... when the traction control releases it for me ... EUREKA! I take off the power plug from the tractor, overclocking is 180 ... 200 ... 210 ... URAAAAA is 218 KM / H judging by the GPS receiver! Now you need to make a toggle switch that disconnects traction from the brain, and it's in the bag))))
Subsequently, I was able to accelerate on it to a speed of 260 km / h and this is not quite the limit, I think another 5 km can be squeezed out))))) By the way, Arista at a speed of over 200 holds the road well, does not roll, does not swing, once even flew at a speed of 180 gravel carefully forgotten by the road builders in the middle of the highway))))) Now we will argue with the Germans on equal terms)))))
Well, actually 3000 is BU))) And the new getrag is about 5) A 154 is a good option)
You can put the mechanics, why not))))) Throw the pedal from the parking brake to the coupling, and stick either the R154 from the Turer, or Getrag, which is 3000 new.
ChameleonD
I think it's best to take on Injapan, it is small, delivery will be inexpensive) At 260 rpm, it is already close to the maximum somewhere around 5900 - 6000, the car has the potential to accelerate further, you just need the main pair longer)
No more authentic main pair! We need a 5-speed automatic from Arista 161 body. and then it will be just an unforgiving plane!
I think it's best to take on Injapan, it is small, delivery will be inexpensive) At 260 rpm, it is already close to the maximum somewhere around 5900 - 6000, the car has the potential to accelerate further, you just need the main pair longer)
Where to buy such a thing ?!
Is it worth it?
And I would also like to get more details)) S)
How many rpm per 260 km?
There is an additional radiator on the box, I overclocked 260 only 1 time, just check the maximum speed, I often drove over 200 on the highways, there are no problems with the box, the oil does not smell burnt. The old 4-stupy automatic machine is sooooo strong. To kill him is to try. And in terms of loads, a sharp start from a standstill with slipping and switching with a sneaker to the floor at 6000 rpm is more harmful than the maximum speed
))
What revolutions did you have at 260? and how long could you drive?
-Imagine what was happening to her at that moment ...
IMHO it is necessary to put an additional radiator on the box with the cooler, well, and to grade the box, only after such manipulations can you drive over 200 km ...
Judging from personal experience!
Well, not necessarily ...
He has the same collar - 250 km / h ...
And the majors on such cars are unlikely to look for nishtyaks to increase the maximum speed =)
Nuuu ...
With such a maximaLL, you can remove the S65AMG on the way to Borovoe =) =) =)
Hey. tell me which pin is the yellow wire connected to?
and in general the pinout on the wires and how did you set the toggle switches?
Thank you!
I downloaded a manual for it on the Internet, but unfortunately it did not survive (U 161 signal can go from ABS sensors, then you can't connect one like this ((((((
after installation, nothing normally works for me ... you press the sneaker ... the boost is blown away ... the revolutions in the cut-off ... and that's it ... shorter troubles! untied him nafig everything went back to normal ... at switches the boost holds 1 bar, knocks down. maybe he picked it up crookedly or he is not friends with Aristo 161 at all (