In the footsteps of the future of Portage. Dagestan

Select from lots of shooting 20 best shots was not easy, and this despite the fact that I almost did not take off. The first half of the route was not in the mood, and the second — a heavy wind was blowing and it was raining. So do not judge strictly, two dozen of the best photographs are far from the concept of "best", but I like them, each in their own way. Well, in a nutshell tells of how it, in April in the mountainous Dagestan...

To begin with, that the valorous GAI finally made it to wild Dagestan. It went as necessary and the authorities of the traffic police with the participants of the movement were not observed. Now as everything everywhere, cameras, a bunch of police, covert patrols. With overtaking need to be extremely cautious, otherwise... it's all legal. The last "normal" region fell to a police state.

Now, "Baku" the track weaved to the funeral, overtake only those who do not know. The cops catch as elsewhere, not "zlostnikov", and those who do not have time to complete the overtaking. In the end, the police cars are lining up the queue to demand for the payment, and not just the young reckless reckless drivers, but also respected elders, carrying tomatoes to the market on the sixes-the goner.
On each post, and in Dagestan, a great multitude, stop, verification of documents, a cursory examination of the contents of the trunk, and sometimes the under bonnet plates. Verification of documents for all possible bases, a million questions about the purpose of their visit, how and where next... against this background, in Ingushetia and Chechnya roads no police. On the way back to Vladikavkaz did not stop me out of Dagestan never! What is all this? Indeed, in the Republic more than quietly, I crossed the mountains of Dagestan through the whole, and not a hint of tension...

Well at least in the areas of total surveillance is still missing. Just go to the local track, as the oppression of the state is weakened to a hardly noticeable, and you can throw all the money. However, my Mongols to bring down does not work, except with mountains

Although in the mountains the police is still a lot. Almost all travel, Russian. Even met a former employee of one of my good friend)))

After it became possible to buy cars on the number of the region where it was registered, now in Dagestan, no one was paying attention at the Moscow license plates — now in any village is the Moscow or St. Petersburg machine

The people are still hospitable, in many villages call for a visit and want to communicate easily and happy to help if you get lost, show you the way. In one of the villages I was looking for a hotel (Yes, now there is), so man, to whom I asked, already running straight toward the group of people to clarify where the hotel was, and came running back. It was terribly uncomfortable, to be honest

Few words about the hotel. On my arrival at the door the hostess reacted unfriendly to put it mildly. Casting me a hard, withering look, she said, like a shot: "Who are you? Why did you come?" Realizing that we were tourists, took pity, too. Conditions — as a visitor in the village. Outhouse with a hole in the floor, cold water from the hose, embedded in the pipe. To wash is also possible, but in the morning...

In other words, if you need comfort, that in Dagestan are still very few places apart from Makhachkala and Derbent, where you can spend the night with all amenities. In the mountains, tent, tent, and tent

The tent, by the way, also put not so easy. Not every gorge there is a choice of places for a camping, there are areas where you can go along the river tens of kilometers, and not see any clearing, where they could stay. If the land is suitable for farming — it is cultivated or fenced. But if a piece of land nobody wants and you sleep there you do not want)))
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Much easier in areas rich in Alpine meadows, but they are characteristic for more southern Dagestan

Drinking water is no problem. Almost every village has a wells, where you can get good drinking water.

Also, in large villages began to appear and cafes. Miracle (pies) or khinkal (meat + dough) you will be served almost in any similar institution, and the quality is very decent, since I cook more for her, than for visitors

Now to try the local cuisine do not have to be invited to visit. This is very valuable, as the villagers often live a wealthy life, and setting a magnificent table, they often expose all that is at home, if only to honor the guest. Of course, no money and never will, because the invite from the heart.

In other words, not to "parasitize" on the Caucasian hospitality, if you have the opportunity to dine in the cafe, better to do it there. Two people can eat from the belly of 300-400 rubles.

In rainy, spring weather in the mountains is to ride is unsafe. In may, when will be our expedition Volok, nature will calm down and go into "summer mode". Now, from the mountains of piled rocks and avalanches, flooded roads.

Local familiar, but we, the people of the plains, it becomes uncomfortable when such a snow tongue moves in front of you and strive to dam a mountain river. You stop, and at this point, already do you think the slope of piled stones, though small, but the stones it is not autumn leaves, and the roof drumming))

In General, one of the gorges we did not explore it guided by the instinct of self-preservation. Well, time is running out, the speed of exploration in such conditions is not the highest...

With fuel in Dagestan has always been strained. The abundance of "pseudorandom" stations strikes first entered the Republic. The first benchmark is the price. If the cost of fuel "both in Russia", so it's not too bad. If the price is low, it is reason to pause and at least ask the seller not to poison your horse with that stuff. Usually answer honestly, and even recommend a certain gas station where a good fuel.

In the mountains with the fuel even worse. With gasoline, the situation is not too bad, although local, smelling the gun, often catch all kinds of impurities, which bodyazhat fuel. With diesel quite all sad. I'm on a single tank from a decent fueling to another hold, but without the stock. On the meet-up, but discarded the gas station the sellers admitted that they diesel "tractor", "butter pour not hurt", "three kilometres is diesel fuel "factory"... wording may be different, but the meaning is the same — a power reserve of at least 500 km in mountainous Dagestan is very necessary, otherwise keep warm and come home at Evo. On Evoкуаторе

See you soon in the air with the Baltic photo cards!
Thank you all who read!