Need your advice! — Toyota Corolla Runx, 1.8 liter, 2001
In the near future I was going to climb again under the valve cover.
It will be necessary to change:
- chain damper (13559-88600) -
chain vibration damper (13561-88600)
- timing chain tensioner (13540-88600)
or do you need to remove the cover to replace the above? )))
— chain? (Is it worth it or is it not for such a run?)
The reason for replacing the dampers and hydraulic tensioners was a small, but furious knock when the accelerator pedal was pressed sharply (as if the valves were rattling). The valves are within the normal range, they were measured when the lift bolts were changed.
Also, at idle, the engine taps a little (perhaps it should be so, xs), I think this is also the reason for a poorly functioning or inoperative hydraulic tensioner. If you have come across this, please tell me what is the problem?
Plus, along the way it will be necessary to change:
- the alternator belt (cracked)
- change the brake fluid
- the front brake hose (it was also worn out, hung clumsily)
- the oil in the engine (before that, Toyota 5w40 was pouring synthetic, which one would you advise?)
+ someone told me when I changed the lift bolts that it was necessary to clean some kind of filter. So. Please tell me what else can be done along the way and check?
At the request of Corollaz:
Mileage: 69.000 km
Yes, gears are not cheap infection ...
I almost always tap at idle and when warmed up, it annoys me, but maybe it should be like that or is it normal. Compare with another 2zz has not yet been possible.
A rattling like a valve or a chain is only audible when the pedal is suddenly drowned to the floor, when the food is allowed on the 3rd and I press the gas, then the automatic transmission somehow sharply throws off to the 2nd, a jerk turns out and CLASHES at this moment, and then not always, but when she wants to)))
Friends also told me about the noisy motor, supposedly don’t worry, everything is fine with you, and it taps quietly, it’s not worth climbing. But this is me, a person who likes everything to be perfect)
Not real mileage, 95% percent. They took through a friend of a friend of the market who drove her. Although dick knows. But as they themselves saw when I changed the bolts.
Alternator belt tensioner? or chains? And what kind of valve is so interesting. As I understand it, the only way to check this is to replace it? ))
I wrote in private.
oh, I don’t have one that rattles at idle after annealing))) well, I mean, warmed up)))
and now, in order
, if you are going to change the chain and the tensioner, the damper, then there is immediately gears 3 and it is necessary to minify) there are all sorts of gaskets along the way ... also advises manual to change the oil pump and pump (well, it's on the run of 100 thousand miles or 150 thousand)! gears 2 for 1 thousand somewhere and one that you won’t believe with a clutch was 6500r maybe more expensive))) maybe cheaper because gears are ground and the chain is stretched! (a couple of thousand rubles. chain)
and here I am when I press the gas sharply. there is no knock ... only when the gas is released after a while, when the speed has already fallen ... 600 (somewhere it can be a little less. more.) and then only after (already thinking that it can be unscrewed and not in the engine ... = B) annealing ... talked with the minder says they say they don’t worry about how it rattles and change everything at once, and then he says that at idle they say it’s not a chain! like they say the output is already ... and maybe the engine is noisy ... (one joked at the Selick Club, said I quote "after my capital, I can’t perceive the different sounds of my engine without humor = D ...")
I have a mileage of under 150 ... but I'm waiting for when I’ll start strumming constantly at idle and then I’ll change it! But before flattery I don’t see the point.
about how much mileage you have, well, obviously not 69 thousand)))) = D as you write!
in short, write in a personal and record the sounds on video or audio))
I’ll continue, the belt tensioner may also clatter, the valve that is near the damper is located on the right side of the engine, it turns out that I read this from myvibe.ru, in short, these are the pies
not even a valve, ... but the detonation combustion of fuel in the cylinder. and of course it is common knowledge that higher octane fuel resists knock better.
so if you detonate often on the 95th, then of course you need to pour the 98th.
92 - never poured
95 -96 - Valves knock when the accelerator pedal is pressed sharply only when gas is added at speeds close to idle and provided that something prevents the car from accelerating (for example, a hill) but never under normal conditions)))
98 - also All in a bundle
DIMA PROJECT
I have already driven 25,000 km on the 96th (because gas station is discounted and close at hand) and there are absolutely no problems! sometimes I indulge in the 98th.
I confirm:
92 - Check Engine
95 - Valves knock when you sharply press the accelerator pedal (not always, but often). Infuriates
98 - All in a bunch, not a single knock
Gasoline-(Lukoil)
I have already driven 25,000 km on the 96th (because gas station is discounted and close at hand) and there are absolutely no problems! sometimes I indulge in the 98th.
The fact of the matter is that when I run over a policeman in 1st gear, I release the clutch and smoothly give gas and I hear the rumble of fingers from under the hood, this did not always happen on 95 benzo, but on 98 it didn’t exist at all! and noticed that if fingers do not knock at 95 after refueling, then in a day 2a they will knock!
When I have no choice, I pour 95 when I drove a knapsack from Novosibirsk, where can I get 98)) so I drove 1800 km to 95) and everything was ok, but this is the track
you probably heard detonation when driving at low speeds (almost idling) and when opening the throttle valve to a large value. this is possible on any car.
just increase the speed first (accelerate a little) and then open the full. or switch to a gear lower (in this case, the revolutions will naturally rise) and then open the damper.
Of course, on the 98th, I myself noticed that the car is less likely to show signs of detonation. so I myself am for a quality 98th! but on a good 95th, our motors also work fine.
Why do fingers knock at 95 and dviglo ditanize ?!
And Bay 98 is great, and it's not just me!
it’s not my fault if the sites write illiterately
in general
* A-76 (“normalâ€)
* AI-92 (“regularâ€)
* AI-95 (“premiumâ€)
* AI-98 (“superâ€)
for the 2ZZ-motor GE is optimal PREMIUM, i.e. AI-95
dima-project.gallery.ru/watch?ph=x03-cv46I
Here, 95 current in extreme cases, but forget about 92! and then you will make capital
Filled up, ride. It seems to have become better, at least when I press the slipper on the floor, I haven’t seen this yet ...
Gizmon
According to the passport, such oil cannot be poured into the 2Ya engine! It’s very thick, but people pour it)
I pour 5W30, 0W30 and I advise you too, I’m not saying that Toyota has shit oil) I always poured the original one myself, but I pour Motul into this engine! Because I drive hard)
I hear a rattling sound when I fill up with 95 benz! but this is not a chain, but fingers!
Lew is always 98, well, almost always) At 98, everything works awesome and there is nothing to blurt out!
What kind of motul is this? and at what price? ))) Change soon.
I pour 95th, at 92m my CheckEngine was on fire when they drove the O_o machine. Do we really have such a "GAVEN" gasoline ... I'll
try 98 and unsubscribe if it's better or not)))
I'll take a look at the site, maybe I'll find something interesting.
Yeah, the chain, her mother, or the hydraulic tensioner can't cope.
At idle, it's like a knocking watch, if you add a little gas, it starts tapping faster. And this "absorber" is subject to replacement not vkurse?
I will continue about rattling after reading and using Google ... and I found the site myvibe.ru and drew conclusions ...
I also think maybe fingers. soo ... oh no, we don’t have benz normally to know the 98th ... in short, when you sharply press the gas pedal, if you hear a knock, it’s a chain ... then the sounds on the right of the engine near the air filter are an absorber (or how it’s right!) kind of like a sound like a clock, it’s chirping like like this! it is at idle … after vzharivaniya … in charge of accumulating gases absorber, as I understand it is responsible for them!
As for oil, I don’t burn it, so I pour Tootovsky oil every 4200-4700km
According to the passport, such oil cannot be poured into the 2Ya engine! It’s very thick, but people pour it)
I pour 5W30, 0W30 and I advise you too, I’m not saying that Toyota has shit oil) I always poured the original one myself, but I pour Motul into this engine! Because I drive hard)
I hear a rattling sound when I fill up with 95 benz! but this is not a chain, but fingers!
Lew is always 98, well, almost always) At 98, everything works awesome and there is nothing to blurt out!
I'm posting a video ... Tapping is clearly audible in the area of ​​u200bu200bthe alternator belt and from the side of the chain.
At idle, the camera captured exactly the same tapping, so I don’t see the point of spreading it.
When driving and vzharivaniya sneaker vpol sound could not be recorded, nothing is heard. Here.