On the edge of Eurasia. From Novosibirsk to Malaysia on SUVs. Part III. Tajikistan.

THE END OF EURASIA 2013. PART III. Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan.
Nurek, the Pamir highway, Afghanistan is very close, welcoming exhibition the inhabitants of the Pamir, in the middle of nowhere, the pass of AK-Baital.
The previous part of the report:
Part I. Kazakhstan
Part II.Uzbekistan

The border pass quickly. A small tip Tajik border guards from our friends doing their thing, go through everything very quickly. Impression shop Duty free.

And here begins the amazing things: pay, fairly good roads. Passing Khojend, and good midnight, get to Dushanbe. I remember one of the tunnels, which had begun in the Soviet era, but gave up because of design flaws. Then built by the Turks. In the end, the tunnel is not completed. Under the stone arches is the stench (no ventilation, the exhaust gases do not dissipate), you need to have time to switch the fence on the inside, darkness. Water everywhere and the worst part is the pieces of rebar sticking out of the water. No desire to descend on them in that gas chamber. We night stop in a roadside café Alpine.
Dushanbe already familiar to us in last year's trip. Navara naughty rubber bushings on the front shocks squeezed.

As will be seen later, with this problem we will suffer until the end of the trip. We immediately obtained the permits to enter the border area. Go to the Nurek, where right after the cascade Nurek our friends cottage.
The Nurek HPP, the construction of the monumental.

Here, the highest fill dam in the world: its height is 304 meters, the surface area of the reservoir 98 km2, length — 70 km.

At the time it was the all-Union construction, were sent here Komsomol groups from across the country. The plant generates 75% of electricity consumed in the country.
Go on a tour. Of course, to shoot anything, but we're not stopping. No swimming in the reservoir a visit, of course, would be incomplete. ;-)
From the highest point offers a wonderful view on the HPP and the Vakhsh river valley.

In order to get to the Pamir highway, there are two ways: the first is simpler and quicker to go through Kulyab, the second across the main highway with the road worse, but with beautiful views. We choose the second. We are joined by a third car with our Tajik friends. Stop with the coming of darkness. Looks like I was too happy for the sun today and ran without a cap. By evening, leaving the tent I feel that in the eyes of the dark, begin to fall, I catch. Almost losing consciousness. It looks like a sunstroke.
In some places traces of the war: shattered bridges, traces of bullets, shot down the APCS.

Starts in the Gorno-Badakhshan region. Remember kalayhumb village, with a clear mountain stream Khumb and restaurant directly on the river. Beneath us, the noise of the streams of turquoise water around the mountain, the sun shines brightly, and we eat wonderful local pilaf! La vita e bella !

The road is getting narrower, we have to move slowly. Going on the very edge of the cliff.

Next stop in a small village.
Residents with interest in our cars. Girls in bright traditional robes, laughing and hiding of faces from video and photographic equipment.
Decide in the evening to walk through the village. Knocking at one of the yards with the issue "will not sell us some milk?". In response, the hostess invites you to come in. After 10 minutes we find ourselves at a table lined with a variety of dishes.

It is very good that our Tajik friend Aziz speaks Tajik. The dialogue with the hostess and her family established. It turns out men leaving to work in Russia, and women do housework. We continue to treat mutton, tea, some more local delights. Money refuse to take it, we're guests. Grateful for the hour and a half dinner, it's already dark outside. Discreetly placed under the plate 50 somoni, the owner would never take. And of course take a big jar of milk, no wonder we went.
Since the road will be long and difficult, setting the alarm clock for 6. A bit surprised that at 6 am still dark. After a small move in fees. "What time is it?" sarcastically asks someone to me. "Yeah, seven soon will be!" cheerfully raportow I satisfied with an early exit. "Mdaaa, it seems to me, it's twenty to five in the morning" the answer. Thoughtfully glancing at the clock, I realize: I have the time is Novosibirsk, it is necessary to take a couple of hours. It turns out I got the faculty all up at 4 in the morning ;-) and perfect! We will see more! Everyone is happy, so at least it seems to me.

Starts something I've been waiting for: the Pamir highway runs along the river Panj. The river here is both the border of the two States. On the other side of Afghanistan.

Ilya (our collector of stripes and other insignia of power units) persuades the guards to cut off his (the guard) patch in exchange for some other. The guard right there, without removing shape (!) allows Ilya knife (!) to cut off what he liked. Voila, the collection has replenished with one more instance.

The farther we go into the mountains, the more modest dressed women. Some of them at our approach a blind person.
To be near the Panj and not swim? Splashing in muddy, cold waters of the river-border. Afghanistan is so close that it's easy to consider clay houses, residents, cars

At each stop looking to the other side. Here it is a land torn by years of war. Though nothing about it resembles. The usual quiet of rural life, as if nothing had happened...
From one side steep rocks, on the other the mighty Panj. In some places the road is so narrow that two cars can not go. One of the members of the movement in this case you need to back. To the right is much better not to look. Wheel often goes to the meter from no fenced region. One wrong move the wheel, and can easily be broken down into the Panj. Given the fact that sometimes the Panj below the road by a hundred meters, such a prospect is not attracted.
Typical business: children selling fruit.
Often there are trucks with Chinese guest workers in China building the road.
Asphalt, looks like there never really was. The average speed of 15-20 km/h, in order to get to Khorog takes about 16 hours.

The road is dangerous, winding over the cliff, potholes and bumps. Day these inconveniences kompensiruet wonderful views. It is a pity that part of the road had to overcome in the dark.
Since last year, when our journey along the Pamir highway was interrupted by military events, the image of Khorog I was single: border town, and the crowded military checkpoints. However, in the morning we find a quite, peaceful town in the middle of which flows a mountain, clean river Gunt.
Everything takes its unhurried course: people go to the market, slowly walk in the streets, children frolic. We are all also welcome.
Periodically visible to European and American tourists with backpacks. From Khorog you can move on the highway M41 next to Kyrgyzstan, but we choose the path more long and difficult through Ishkashim and Langar, Panj along. Continue down South.
Drive to Garm Chashma: the largest thermal hospital in Tajikistan. Proudly salt hill in the style of Turkish Pamukkale.
Part of a group sent to bask in the thermal waters, part of the refrain: on the street +35. Despite the heat, the local women dressed in very tight clothes.
Still a little Ilya were sick from this amount of heat, and after swimming, he nearly fell on the stone floor in bath.
Then the moment of farewell: a third car with our friends heading back to Dushanbe. Pathetic and sad, but in our expedition there will be many meetings and farewells. We headed next to the village of Ishkashim. Immediately behind the village put a camp on the banks of the Panj. After a few hundred meters of Afghanistan. There is a feeling that here it is the place where I so long wanted to visit.

Slowly moving forward. Passing small villages. The Pamiri people are very very friendly, just a sample of hospitality and joy.

Almost every resident invited us to his home for tea. We'd love to, but schedule is already tight. Entertained children than can, they are also something we offer in response. I remember one boy who knowing that nothing in his hands such as a reciprocal gift there, takes out of his mouth a piece of candy and holds them out to us ;-) Closer to Langara road changes. Panj go away, appear the alley of pyramidal poplars.

Turn to the North, in the direction of Kyrgyzstan.
The road sharply upwards. Is open, from which is breathtaking. Here it is the Pamir! Top of the world! Villages around there, some places rocks and lunar landscapes. We are moving at 3-4 thousand meters. Meet nichegoshenki no, go somewhere in the middle of nowhere.

Begins again the asphalt. We come to the main Pamir highway.

After the Khargush pass, by the evening we reach Murghab. One can see how changed the ethnic composition. The local inhabitants are mainly Kyrgyz. This is evident on the faces and traditional headwear. Village at an altitude of 3600 m. the faces of some people being black from the scorching mountain sun.
Cheered us dialogue with local residents. "Tell me, where's the dressing? Diesel fuel, diesel fuel, gasoline?", slowly and clearly I ask. Looks like we don't understand. In a different sequence, repeat these same words. It seems to be a shadow of understanding flicker in the eyes of one of the natives. He come closer to the car and asks: "You say in Russian?". "Yes, I say" somewhat surprised I say. "Listen, then fine Russian say Yes?" he retorts. Look how it so I in some other language is spoken. I repeat the same question has already been strenuously gesticulating, pointing at the tank, canister. "Oh, Yes, filling!" joyfully answer for both aboriginal and not saying a word, show in a completely different directions. In the end we find the traditional Tajik gas station, where we poured a few buckets of liquid similar to diesel fuel.

The next day, literally in an hour after departure from Murghab, 80ки separates the absorber.
While we are repairing, we caught up a couple of French cyclists. They travel on two-wheeled designs for a year (!). After learning about the purpose of our expedition greatly surprised and wish us luck. Our two months just pale in comparison to the journey of the year.
In an hour we meet Peruvian biker who seems to be also more than a year of touring the world.
Finally climb to the highest mountain pass in the territory of the former USSR – Akbaital. The altitude of 4655 m For us it is a landmark, because to this point we were able to get last year, prevented war in Khorog.

Get to the Tajik checkpoint, we pass pretty quickly.
Here and the familiar sign "People Mountain Badahshan welcomes you!". Near the monument with the mountain goat last year was a meeting with a famous Japanese traveler, Haruhisa Watanabe. Sad. It was a Japanese "Fedor Konyukhov". Who would have thought that in six months he will die in Russia .
Half an hour later we call to Kyrgyzstan.
To be continued...

The first series of the film "the end of Eurasia 2013". Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan.