On the edge of Eurasia. From Novosibirsk to Malaysia on SUVs. Part I. Russia-Kazakhstan.

THE END OF EURASIA 2013. PART I. RUSSIA-KAZAKHSTAN
How it all began.
After a most interesting expedition "Asian ring 2012", the more I wanted something so interesting and exciting. Less than a month since the return to Novosibirsk, as I started to overflow with ideas. Taking the map of the world, I quickly sketched a scheme for a couple of expeditions. All previously unrealized (failed trip to Tibet in 2008, failed completely Pamir highway) persistently begged the new route. Then I remembered that Tashkent is the only unvisited capital in the former Soviet Central Asia, and to Baikonur, it would be nice to get, since we planned to surf the endless expanse of the Kazakh steppes. After careful analysis, something that was removed from the route, something added. In the end, the schedule looked like this:

On the occasion of the closing of Tibet was provided the option of passing through the Taklamakan desert, with the train ride from Golmud to the Tibetan capital Lhasa, and further to make a tour of Tibet through Sichuan and Yunnan.
The estimated distance of 20 000 km, a journey time of 60 days. On the way 10 countries, final destination Cape Piai in Malaysia: the southernmost tip of the Eurasian continent. In some areas, I consulted with Vladimir (for which many thanks to him), who had previously been on part of our route, China and SE Asia. His report on drom.ru here. Documents, we begin to make in the winter. The most difficult country in this respect China and in particular Tibet. In the end the trip go on the proven Nissan Navara and TLC 80. Starting July 1, 2013

July 1, gloomy, pouring rain. Traditionally accompanies us on the road Novosibirsk OTS channel. In the Central square of Novosibirsk make a small informational video about how we are going to conquer Eurasia. The movie opens in the evening edition of the local news:

At the gas station ask the operator how can we go to Malaysia ;-) In the radio periodically sounds joyful "Colleagues! To Malaysia there are only 19900 km!". As we pass my cottage, we go out, spending my daddy. The traditional question how to drive to Malaysia, had no qualms, he says: "first go straight, then turn left Tajikistan to China and down into Malaysia". Now we know just exactly how to get to Cape Tanjung Piai.
On the border with Kazakhstan, we carefully examine the Russian border guards and asked, "and it does not have it show on the TV channel "Drive" as you go around the lake?". We answer in the affirmative, glad that our project "Roads Bama" is so popular, and we so easily recognize. Give a few DVDs with our last year's project "the Asian ring 2012", shot the guards on their own phones against the background of our car. Guys just fascinated reading the strange names of cities in the ribbon of our route. Rush forward, to Kazakhstan.
The Kazakh roads are familiar to us in the last year visits, but not reaching O. Balkhash go in the direction of Kyzyl-Orda, go to Baikonur. Expected the steppe, not very good roads.
Sometimes just very unpleasant.

Sunset life seems beautiful.

The first force majeure happens almost immediately. Call the travel company who issued documents to visit Baikonur. While we were driving, was launched "Proton", and as it turned out unsuccessful. Live accident occurs . Few tens of seconds after launch, the proton is falling, pouring huge amounts of toxic heptyl.
We are faced with the question: to go or not now to Baikonur? Since accurate data on the contamination and closure of the spaceport yet, agree to phone later, when we reach Kyzyl-Orda.
Fortunately was storm front, the wind blew heptyl in the desolate, and the rain was precipitated by a pair of toxic fuel from the atmosphere. A few hours later we are told: you can go. By midnight we reach Kyzyl-Orda where the launch complex is just 200 km away But we are in Kazakhstan, where even 200 km. can be very long. The road is still under active repair. Small stretches of good asphalt, interspersed with bumpy road. Arrive at Baikonur, only 6 in the morning when it is light out.

Launch pads and other technical part is located outside the town. The entire area is huge. From one launch pad to another to move only by road.

In the steppes is a small town of the Soviet type. A small Soviet enclave, where apparently 80 years, little has changed. In a lot of cars with Russian numbers, and the people are mostly Russian.
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Get on the main site, site No. 1: from here started the Gagarin. To photograph up close is not allowed, although a few pirate photos still have time to do. Peace and quiet, just the guards and no one else.

Next stop is a Museum. Usually this word brings me sadness and longing. But this Museum is quite not sad. A lot of interesting, historical. A couple of hours to inspect numerous samples of the equipment, documents, photos, space food and many other interesting things. This place has a lot things changed the world.

Particularly struck by the project "Buran". It turns out, was built 10 (!) prototypes of this flying monster. And the scope of funds for the entire program was amazing. My question is, where is, among these 10 instances the one that went into space, the guide casually said, "the fire we had... hit the ceiling... failed to save him...". That's how it is. The rest remained intact, they were sold out, and the one for whom all this was started just disappeared into nowhere.

Someone from our team was just crazy from happiness: he was able to lie down on the same bed where Gagarin slept the night before the start.

The room is simple and modest. The obligatory portrait of Lenin. Apparently osnovopolojnik space was.
And I remembered how in high school I read a story about first launch, and as described this night and morning start. And here we are right here.
And I have all spinning in my head Internet tune:
And where is the wheel? asked Gagarin. — The village! — muttered Korolev — still ask: where's the reins, even "let's go!" say...
For once in your life Baikonur to see. Satisfied and impressed, we move on again to Kyzyl-Orda and to the border with Uzbekistan.
On the way we cross the Syr Darya.

Sometimes we get in a straightforward stubs.

Oddly enough, sometimes starts multi-lane highway of excellent quality.

Not for long, though. On the map everything looks fine for me: drive to Shymkent, there is next to the border crossing to Uzbekistan and here we are in Tashkent. But we in Asia, and things that we think are obvious and simple, there is seen somewhat differently.
Arriving at the checkpoint see a somewhat strange sight: and like the border, and people are in a hurry, but for machines of travel is not visible. It turns out that Hiking the border, for border is 130 km from this place. That is, first to write a hook for Kazakhstan, and then going abroad to finish his in Uzbekistan. What motivated this wise decision, hard to say. Of course traditionally Asian-pointers do not exist. Therefore we write here is such an arc, passing even a little further than necessary.

CAT Kasymbaeva-Yalama most unpleasant of all is that we had been through. It seems that the governments of both countries decided to transfer these institutions to the selffinancing mode. We just forgot about them, much to the delight of the employees of the border and customs. Despite a proud inscription "operation Mode: round the clock, without a break" at 6 a.m. everything is closed. Money wanted: for that let us (the rest of the car seems to be allowed no earlier than noon), for the repair of the barrier ("wah, not open the gate, broke, yeah"), for the passage of border and customs clearance for vehicle control veterinary control, for the repair of the computer ("broke, Yes, are unable to issue documents!"), for free. Upset that, despite receiving the money, everything was done disastrously slowly. Losing 4 hours we are moving in the Uzbek part. All repeats in the same order. Unlike the Kazakhs, Uzbek border guards traditionally like to inspect EVERYTHING. You have to completely unload two cars, all show and explain. Through the three hours we are finally free. We are waiting for not the last we visited the capital of Soviet Central Asia. We're going to Tashkent.

To be continued...

Only route 10 countries. Made a feature film of 5 series.
The trailer for the film: