all capital from and to - Toyota Corolla, 1.5 liter, 1990
I apologize right away that there are no pictures of the process, there just wasn’t time to shoot, and there wasn’t much opportunity (
Therefore, I’ll post a photo of the final result under the hood)
So, the first day, in general, on this day I only had enough time to remove the hood, drain all liquids, remove the cylinder head cover, distributors, pushers and attachments. I would have removed the head that day, but there was no head (you need an asterisk for 10)
The second day, I went to the motor city, bought a head-150 rubles, an engine repair kit-3500 rubles, a timing belt tensioner-500 rubles, main liners-600 rubles, connecting rods-500 rubles, all of standard sizes.
I took off my head, in principle, its condition is not bad, as is the condition of the pistons from above. The oil I poured was not the best but not the worst (esso semisyntetic 10w-40) Yes, and I always changed the filter on time and always the original. Only in the last thousand before the capital I flooded Lukoil Lux and put a Korean filter, because. a trip to Barnaul was planned, but due to some circumstances it was canceled and I decided to disassemble the engine while there is money.
Rassuharil, took off the caps (they fell apart right there, and it smoked), removed the valve - the condition is not buzzing, of course, but it’s not bad lapped, there are barely noticeable shells, but it’s not a problem to squint) I got tired of tearing off the exhaust manifold gasket - it was cardboard.
Everything - the head is now naked - you can wash it. I bought Profoam 1000 - a very strong engine cleaner - I advise! I walked everywhere with a toothbrush, washed all this dirty tricks with water - everything sparkles =) hose head cooling shirt until clean water flows. This is basically all that I managed today.
Day three, I collect the head. I rubbed the valves with 2 in 1 paste (I had to manually, because there was nothing at hand, I just found a big nut, sharpened it on emery to the diameter of the valves, glued it to the tar and snorted) I spent it on everything about everything 40 minutes in total. I put on new caps (here they are different - gray for inlet valves, black for exhaust valves) I made a dryer myself - I just found a suitable
washer , welded two nails and a handle on top to it) , the other stacked croutons.
I lubricated the pushers with fresh oil, installed it, turned it around, everything was great) I glued the previously removed inlet pipe to the sealant. The thermostat left the same, it works properly.
In general, the head is ready, covered with a cloth, let it lie waiting in the wings =)
Then today we managed to remove the block, somehow removed there was little space under the hood, removed it manually with the help of belts and pipes) The cast-iron block, plus a torque converter was screwed to it on the flywheel (10-11 kg of excess weight) I didn’t catch up that it could be on unscrew the place and leave nafig there. In general, they took it off and dragged it where it should be. Tomorrow I will wash it.
Day four - removed the sump, oil receiver, oil pump (here it also acts as a front cover), unscrewed the torque converter, flywheel, pulled out the old oil seals, scraped off the old gaskets, tore off the oil-mud suspension, cleaned the block jacket, shoveled out incomprehensible dirt from there with a glass , similar to sand, pierced everything with a powerful jet of water. As well as the head, the block was cleaned with a toothbrush, profam and gasoline. In general, now the block sparkles) Then he removed the piston and crankshaft - all this was also peeled off to a gleam, cleaned the oil channels, grooves piston rings (required). I put everything aside. Now I need to go to the specialists to measure the cylinders and the shaft. Because today is a day off, they don’t work, I’ll go on Monday. .
Day five, I took the block to the specialists (I thought it would be necessary to sharpen it), but they measured it, it turned out that it was possible but not necessary, the same is true with the shaft. I thanked the guys, I don’t owe anything) I will advise fellow countrymen, a good office for boring internal combustion engines, grinding shafts the prices are reasonable (he sharpened the dviglo on the gazelles with them) the address is Yadrintsevsky rise 29.
Then I drove in and bought a duplicate ring-1500 rubles (because the original costs 2500), crankshaft thrust rings (because there was axial play) -250 rubles, an air filter-350 rubles (I had no more than a thousand oil filters, for a run-in will do), the fuel filter (double) -350 rubles, all the belts, except for the timing belt (I have been lying in the trunk for a long time), I don’t remember exactly, about 800 rubles for three pieces, the intake manifold gasket (because the one that was in the repair kit is not suitable, apparently it is for the newer 5a) -150 rubles, the automatic transmission oil seal, the one on the torque converter-300 rubles (it didn’t leak, I just shook it slightly =) ) .To. the groove that is put on the key was broken, apparently due to a poorly tightened bolt, so the pulley on the shaft flopped left and right, making a knock, on parsing they asked for 3500tyr (!) For it, explaining the price to those
All bought what you need.
I painted the block and the head in 2 layers, it turned out great, I didn’t even expect it to be so) Right now it will dry out in the sun and let's get started.
I carefully lubricate everything with fresh oil, lay the shaft. When I stretched all the nuts, the shaft began to rotate a bit tight, well, I scrolled it several times, it seems to be easier, okay, it will work out)
I hammered in brand new oil seals, installed an oil pump, a back cover. I stuck the pistons, pouring plenty of oil on them. I made the mandrel myself from a piece of galvanized steel. I twisted everything, tightened it. I put it in vain, I’ll tell you why below) I installed the engine vertically, put the timing gear, belt, put on a protective cover, pulley. in the engine compartment you can not get close to it.
Well, everything The engine is ready for installation, tomorrow we will install =)
Day six. We put the engine.
It didn’t work the first time. That’s why: the transformer, which I already screwed, has two rows of splines inside and a groove at the end, so you must first insert it into the box, and then, after installing the engine, screw it to the flywheel through the hatch at the bottom of the casing .
Well, that’s it, the engine is in place (I won’t talk about hemorrhoids when installing it, because this story will consist of obscene words =) it is very problematic to put it in place. I put the head, pulled it in. I put the distributors, here the first shaft is driven from the belt, and the second through the gear from the first, put it on the marks, put on the belt and pulled it.
I installed the front cushion, put on the timing belt guards, a new fuel filter (the lower fitting is very problematic to unscrew, because you can get to it only through the hole into which the steering rod passes, turning the wheels to the right until it stops, so it’s better to buy a special key for 14 , it looks like a cap, only with a slot)
I didn’t do anything else that day because it was getting dark.
Day seven. Last.
I removed the radiator, it also needs to be washed, A lot of rubbish flowed out of it, and outside it was pretty clogged with dirt. I also decided to wash the stove: I attached a hose from the water supply to one branch pipe from it, and attached a long drain hose to the other and turned on the pressure full power, it gurgled for a couple of minutes, after which clean water went out. I put everything in place. I put on new belts, an oil filter, screw the drain plug into the block, put on the exhaust manifold, "pants", air filter housing, new filter, distributor, everything nozzles, hoses, screw in candles (I left the old NGK, they are almost new), hook on high-voltage wires, fill in oil (Lukoil 10w40 semi-synthetics, it’s good for running in), new antifreeze (green. 6 liters included) well, everything seems to be POSSIBLE TO START! =)
5.4.3.2.1.START! Having twisted a little, pumping up fuel, he wound up!
But having warmed up to operating temperature, the speed remained at 1500 ... After consulting with friends, I decided that this was most likely an air leak. I prepared a soapy solution and applied it everywhere where there could be air leaks, it turned out that it was in the connection between the BDZ and the intake pipe. New the gasket between them was slightly different in shape and there was a gap in one place, I had to cut out another gasket from thick cardboard. sometimes the revs still stick above the norm, but stomping on the pedal, they subside.
For the work done, the machine rewarded me with a modest appetite =) For the 300 km traveled after the repair, I noticed a consumption of about 7 liters per hundred square meters (despite the fact that I have an automatic transmission, though I twist it so far only 2500 maximum 3000 rpm.
But soon 1500 will pass, and I’ll fill in fresh oil (it’s already standing and waiting in the wings ESSO 10W-40 and a new original filter) And we’ll go to conquer the roads with it ... =)
The plans are brewing automatic transmission swap on the c52 box, otherwise I’m already tired of stupidly pressing two pedals = )
Thank you to everyone who read to the end, and if you have any questions, ask, I will answer everyone.
