Swap for mechanics! Completion! (Updated October 18) - Toyota Sera, 1.5 liter, 1990

Well, as usual, you went in and put everything on the shelves)

gism

I thought, yes, it will be mercilessly combustible to eat, and the wear is too high, oh, you always want to quickly and economically, but it doesn’t work out.

I’m gray on the author, I’ve seen 4 things in total, but sulfur with a gut from a starlet is really cool.
get the same fast and beautiful machine. but the nostril on the hood, like a starlet on sulfur, in my opinion will not be somtretsya.

Compared to Turbo-Sera - Starlet "does not go" ;-)

1. As the Yankees say - no replacement for displacement, 1.5 liters and 1.33 is, whatever one may say, 12% it cannot be squeezed out, and even at this pressure it is blown off after 5000.
3. On 5E-FHE, more aggressive shafts and connecting rods are decently thicker than on 4E-FTE. We kept 1.7 bars of excess on them without problems

In general — I stopped by — Sulfur 5E with a crush of 0.7 (in urban mode, so to speak) and Tsinos 40th with 4E-FTE boost 0.9, both on sticks. Formally, the weight is equal, 1.5 * 1.7 u003d 2.55 and 1.33 * 1.9 u003d 2.53. Tsinosu - no chance, at any speed. Dozens of meters are brought to him on the quarter.

So a 5E-FTE turbo is much more promising than a 4E-FTE swap.

The consumption of fuel in a pleasure car is unlikely to scare anyone. Wear? And where can you go, tuning, and besides, you just need to spend money on good forged pistons.
Maybe I don’t understand something, what is the advantage of the Starlet engine over the configuration that I conceived?
Here is a photo of sulfur with such a nostril, in my opinion ice)
s3.images.drive2.ru/car.j…8cc667e3cbf5d60-large.jpg

I thought, yes, it will be mercilessly combustible to eat, and the wear is too high, oh, you always want to quickly and economically, but it doesn’t work out.

I’m gray on the author, I’ve seen 4 things in total, but sulfur with a gut from a starlet is really cool.
get the same fast and beautiful machine. but the nostril on the hood, like a starlet on sulfur, in my opinion will not be somtretsya.

What about the meaning? Its 160-170 hp. in urban mode, I will get it anyway, moreover, at a pressure of <1kg. I like the nostril like a native on a starlet, in general it is necessary to look for a donor for cutting, I would shoot a lot of things.

well, then it’s not interesting to stick 4e fte blow a kilogram and you will be happy, you will have to do a current nostril in the hood.

Well, not quite moving, we'll get by with pieces)

but will 4e fte go into sulfur?

I will deal with turbocharging in the winter, I will still rest in the garage.
I already understood about the nostril, I’m not sure yet which intercooler will stand, I’ll probably endure, the volume is still ...

Nikita, don't be upset about the FE-FTE box. The main pairs on them are absolutely identical, on both 3.7. They differ slightly in the gears themselves, specifically the first three, and that's it.

Well, as for turbocharging your baby - well, you yourself understand who to turn to for advice ;-) We won’t tell you anything bad!

Yes, and don’t bother with the nostril, you can stick a normal frontal, there is enough space.

I was lucky with the clutch, the remaining resource is 80 percent, of course I forgot about the bolts, I will call the "donor" I think it's not a problem.

About MO, sorry, I mixed up what city you are from :-)

I put the pedal from the HC on Ceres in 30-40 minutes, just under the window, you only need a drill.
The most difficult thing there is to bend, butt on the seat and back on the floor, screw the pedal bracket itself to the HZ bolts. Look, by the way, on Ceres I had a "mask" under the HC already knocked out in my native soundproofing, it only remained to tear it off.
You may have a complication due to the fact that the HC is from a different body and the "ear angle" on the HC will not fit the native stamping on the motor shield.

Then immediately throw the metal pipeline, its end is usually attached to some kind of bracket nearby or to the brake force distributor. Everything, with this extra pedal you can ride, I rode for a month. The brake pedal is easy to change, you'll figure it out, there is one bolt.

Then, even when they change the automatic transmission crown to the manual transmission flywheel, you need to lubricate the bolts with sealant! The fact is that the bolts in the 5E go through the inside of the engine, and oil can penetrate through them. And the bolts are needed from the manual transmission flywheel! From automatic transmission they are SHORT! Those. they are there for a couple of turns just cling.

Next, I hope you didn’t forget to take the box-to-block bolts along with the box? I confess, I just don’t remember how it is on E-motors, but on A-engines the bolts are different, out of 4 only 2 fit, the rest need to be bought in addition.

Well, check the condition of the clutch disc and release bearing, it may make sense to buy new ones. Well, in addition to the rear crankshaft oil seal, it would be nice to replace the input shaft oil seal with a manual transmission and drive oil seals (approximately 150-200 rubles each). Also check the condition of the rubber clutch hose for cracks, replace if necessary. If my memory serves me right, then if I can’t find it, a brake hose is quite suitable, for example, from a Corolla-shaped one with rear drum brakes, perhaps from a Tercel-shaped one, they are just a little longer, but cheaper.

What else… You
will find that the left plastic underbody protection will be small, the automatic transmission is larger than the mechanka, so there will be a large gap. Then, yet, I can't imagine the difficulty of replacing the backstage cables on Sera. They go into the engine shield deep under the panel. In Corollas, their “boot” is unscrewed from the outside from under the bottom, and you need to remove the section of the heat shield of the exhaust pipe, as on Sera — I don’t remember.

Yes, also, if you are seriously thinking about the turbine, then I recommend strengthening the fastening of the left and right pillows with sheet metal "kerchiefs". Otherwise, after six months of annealing, these fasteners simply fall off the spars.

Yes, I would gladly give 5 sput and I don’t need an average price tag in the city of 15 sput for hell! I didn’t understand about MO, what is it? Thank you for the list, now I can more clearly imagine the scope of work, I’ll probably try to change the backstage with pedals and HC (then I’ll unsubscribe that I broke it), and now I can bargain!

Yes, and more, Nikita

"swap the mechanics" - the operation is not much more complicated than the usual replacement of the clutch
, I think that 5 sput + your automatic machine in offset is very, very expensive, even for the Moscow Region

in fact, to reduce time and costs, first install the clutch pedal itself, there is a
stamping for the clutch cylinder on the motor shield. Carefully drill holes around the perimeter of the HZ and cut them out. You apply the HZ and drill holes for the "ears", then just put it in.

After that, the whole "swap" comes down to
1. remove the automatic transmission box
2. remove the automatic transmission crown
3. install the manual transmission flywheel, screw on the basket
4. install the manual transmission
5. remove the automatic selector with the cable
6. put the mechanical link with the cables
7. put in the connector , the jumper left from the automatic transmission to unlock the starter (just any fuse between the two thickest contacts)

That's all you need to go

Those. the operations for throwing the box are the same as when replacing the clutch. Additionally, only the installation of the backstage (a fairly simple operation) and the installation of a pedal with GCC (which can be done slowly in the yard). It is unreasonable to give more than 4-5 sput for this IMHO.

PySy
By the way, once you get under the flywheel, at the same time I recommend changing the rear main oil seal.

I don’t know, on Sera info, in fact, he gave me a contact.
sometimes I see him on the car, well, somehow, an Internet addict, apparently

Listen, why is your Sanya not yet in "our ranks"? As I understand it, he has a test score, there is something to see, there is something to read.
Will you sell, unsubscribe, if the money will be fine, then I'll take it.
PySy waiting for a full report on the installation of 4vd!

I haven’t let myself in yet, but they did it to Sanya.
Exhaust to the right of the cardan passes.
Let's see how I'm going to do it.

As for the blocks, count up, by the end of autumn, if I install 4WD, I will sell my box. Starletovskaya with factory viscous blocking, the right drive is naturally included.

About control with the block in the course, in turns "under gas" just keep the steering wheel, pulls out with your hands, but I still liked it!
When I was replacing the korobas, I looked at my bottom, I realized that you put the cardan through the exhaust "chute"?

No, dear, think three times if you need a lock, it has its own subtleties in management and is not always positive. Locking is needed when the grip of the wheels is significantly different, and if the wheels are torn off by an excess of torque, both of them are torn off.

And here it is no longer a matter of blocking, but of a hold, read rubber. On Pirelli 195/50-15, I happily grind the first two. On Yoke 205 / 45-16 - only the first and completely controllable, but driving it around the city is flour. Surface - dry, clean asphalt.

So - four-wheel drive will save me :-)

Damn, for 180 forces, a lock is already needed, or I’ll grind on the third.

Well, depending on what for, a friend on Tsinos GT2860 feels quite well, now he took aim at the GT32, but he has it sharpened for drag, this is no longer quite a city car. For the city, GT15 or GT17 is enough for you, you can remove 180 forces, and you don’t need more in the city on front-wheel drive for Sulfur, so it polishes the first two gears.

Well, this is how lucky of course, the seller seems to be an honest guy, then they called up a few more times, I think I would have warned ...
About the gt28 series, a fellow serovod wrote that it was too big ...

men… that’s if everything falls into place when swapping with fur…
we swapped a starlet with fur, so not everything fits yet… one checkpoint is assembled from three pieces… from 2E + from carina…
about the nostril… you need to navigate… put forging right away and a GT28 turbo and fuck all the dough! and a remote bag + cuts on the hood in the opposite direction for cooling

horror. %)

It's not about the money at all, the winter is long, you can save up, I think it can even be a collective farm from rx-7 (8), they seemed to respond well on the forums.

In general, you can try to bet from 4AZHE MacPherson.
Discs 22mm on 256
caliper on 54mm

because when installing strat (two-piston) brakes, the discs have to be turned up to 260 mm, then the difference in force between conventional LE and such a modified strat is only about 10%

and such brakes are cheaper and much more common,
in particular, they are exactly the same on the Spacio with a 7A motor, and the discs are 100% compatible with European Corollas

and minimum alterations - you only need a spacer for the brake disc of about 3 mm to make
the force increase by 12%, plus the heat capacity of the disc is 25-30% more

this is the cheapest option

So we will look for

Well, I plan to put the same ones, they are already lying, but my hands did not reach

Thanks! Already dodergalsya that the CV joint flew out!
If it weren’t for the terrible porridge-like long fuzzy drawstring, then, in principle, I was generally surprised by the elasticity of the engine, if you don’t stop completely, then you can safely drive only in 3rd gear) ...
I’ll still change the springs after winter hibernation.
I have a question for you about the brakes, do you have stock now? Thinking ahead to put 2-piston calipers from Levin BZR, what do you say?

I congratulate you on the swap, now you will pull the stick %)
I think that you will join the opinion that Sera is, after all, an automatic machine.
The stirrer is inconvenient there 8-)

Well, about the weight of the machine gun and mechanka, if memory does not lie, the machine gun is about 45-50 kilograms, the machine gun is about 80. And from this follows a small nuisance - take a ruler and measure the distance of the wheel to the arch, your left side is now pulled up 2-3 cm higher than the right one. It is solved only by replacing the spring with a "mechanical" one.

here I see you can open the encyclopedia "for beginners serovodov" :)))