South Ossetia. People lived...
On the way from Derbent stopped in South Ossetia. Long wanted to visit, and then suddenly my plans coincided with the intentions of the two crews, participants in Portage. They have there lives a friend, who promised to show and tell. To miss this opportunity would be a crime. But what I saw was a shock, even though I have seen a lot, traveling across the North Caucasus in the period 2002-2005.
To meddle in politics, and about something the judge will not, few people can soberly assess what happened here, who is right and who is wrong. But one thing is clear — the tragedy. The tragedy of tens of thousands of people, abandoned houses and abandoned land.
North and South Ossetia parts of a full-fledged state border. Legally, South Ossetia is not part of Russia, as an independent entity, occupied Georgian territory, Abkhazia. In the territory of South Ossetia, we broke the laws of Georgia, which relies on 10 years of imprisonment.
In South Ossetia the population is extremely small. Many fled to Russia when the famous events of 89-90 years, when Zviad Gamsakhurdia, unleashed ethnic cleansing throughout Georgia against non-Georgians. In those years, the number of refugees from South Ossetia in Vladikavkaz, according to some estimates, reached 16% of the population.
Immigrants from South Ossetia, kudartsy, was not to the court in North Ossetia, has long eked out a miserable existence and have been great performers in the Ossetian-Ingush conflict, they were very easy to manipulate. All of the above is my personal speculation, and is described only for understanding the historical continuity of events.
In 2008, the US decided to put a military base on the territory of South Ossetia, and Russia intervened in the most radical way, creating on this earth his base. Now the rest of the local population employed by the service of our troops. No industry, agriculture, etc., in South Ossetia there. Entire Georgian population had fled their homes. The Ossetian population, for the most part went to Russia.
Tskhinvali and the surrounding area in 2008 was subjected to cross-bombardment. The city itself has already put in order, and does not seem broken, but the surrounding area serve as a monument to the five-day war.
The local population mostly has dual citizenship, and freely enters the territory of Russia, but a second passport is an automatic ban on visits to Georgia. Those who live only with the Ossetian documents, can enter the country unhindered. To the city of Gori here, only twenty miles away, and Tbilisi little more.
From our gostinichny be seen lit the road leading to Tbilisi, where I went a few years ago during the project Dies.Transcaucasia. But now there impossible to get any transit through South Ossetia prohibited, the border strictly guarded, and unauthorized attempts to penetrate across the border at the local tracks fire without warning.
A large part of the surrounding villages completely looted. To live in the abandoned Georgian population houses no one, and therefore they become prey to looters.
In the bombing suffered and monuments of history, which in South Ossetia is not enough. Many of them are abandoned and destroyed right before our eyes. Locals say that a couple of years ago, this temple from the outside like a fortress, was much more whole, and that, for a moment, X century buildings
In one of the walls gaping hole from a shell. Say, until recently, there lived a monk-hermit and supported the temple in a relatively "live" state, but not so long ago gone somewhere, nobody knows where. And who know? In the village there are only 2 families, ethnic Georgians, who decided not to leave their homes.
And the houses around were built to last for centuries. Lived hard and rich... now all hidden behind bushes and untended fruit trees
Something where you can meet herds of cows, but in comparison with the same Dagestan, living creatures almost there
Many of the houses have inscriptions, but the most common is "Busy". Taken by whom, why busy — not clear. All looted
This is the scariest photo of all my story. Wrecked cars shot column of civilians who were given a green corridor for unimpeded access to the territory of Georgia. Allowed to leave, but not allowed to walk.
The Temple Of Geris-Javari. As stated in the maps of the General staff. On the sign stated a different name, I wrote it down as Jenna-Jour. Either the first or second name, the search engines do not know, but the place is very revered and visited. Alas, to ask there was nobody, and photos I did here a lot
This will finish the story about South Ossetia. I hope I am not banned, but the material is not removed.
Whether to go to South Ossetia as a tourist? In my opinion — not worth it. Yes, it is beautiful, Yes, look there is something, but much more interesting to ride through North Ossetia and Georgia, at least if you are not engaged in military journalism and not looking for sensationalism
On the other hand, in South Ossetia there is something to discover from antiquity. Many sites on the Internet are not described, the story is unknown, but this land is now closer to Russia than to Georgia, in view of the recently signed Treaty between the Russian Federation and the Republic of South Ossetia on cooperation and integration
I'm not "sick" of South Ossetia and a desire to return to my brain not settled. Except that in the process of reading literature I can find something that you will not be able to sit still and want to see with my own eyes... but yet peace and quiet
To enter South Ossetia is possible by the ordinary Russian passport, but the procedure is certainly no easier than when traveling in other foreign countries. The road to Tskhinvali from Russia one — Transkam (TRANS-Caucasian highway). Transkam built in 1989, in the last hours of the Soviet Union. Before creation of North Ossetia was associated with the South only by mountain trails. As they say the Ossetians, "only the blood feuds ran from South to North and from North to South."
Dmitrovchanin
Dangerous you write such posts
the Nazis also moved freely through occupied territory...from time to time...I think Russia is also there temporarily treads Georgian land. As a principle, and our.
Dmitrovchanin
Dangerous you write such posts
Threat nothing. Occupied territory and the occupiers can ride.
Well, on the other hand, how not to write?Then tell about what was there and what I saw.
Thank you for the interesting section of the report !
For me has become a habit Alexei posts to read as soon as I see. I have never regretted the time spent. It is difficult to find something so far from sex, money and politics. Thank you.
Great report! Photo... the soul takes... Alex continue in the same spirit. Very interesting.
Immediately after the war, I specifically did not go not to speculate on the mountain
A very sad sight. Even more unease than in Abkhazia. Nedavnog war navodila strong imprint
Strong reporting, Leh. Cling to shivers... the Tragedy is the will of a single insatiable rulers.
Thank You Alex. I also constantly monitor your reports. Photos atmospheric. Hi from Chelyabinsk )
AniliN
Wherever the Russians come — devastation everywhere!
You for words — watch. Chaos in your mind you seem.
AniliN
Wherever the Russians come — devastation everywhere!
Thanks for the adequacy
NIKO15
I cadaret and thankful to the Russians that saved us. Have a lot to share, but gratitude is not the case. No matter what, I personally, still, Georgians believe the brotherly people. Our young generation need to stop this bloody series... about the devastation — the money of Moscow stood out and a lot to recover, but did not come, unfortunately, and ended up in the pockets of the local — now let look at the bare bushes.
PS I have an old family house in Znauri district, restore it.
Until the change of power — money will leave the pockets.
Thank you for writing! Very interesting and useful to listen to your stories at the event, too much speculation and common people understand nothing of all divides into good and bad, white and red
AlexeyMochalov
This is a very unipolar view of things. Russia still remains the most wonderful and beautiful country in the world, in my opinion. Well, in any war there are two sides, demolished not only ours, and do not know who more. Tskhinval was bombed by the Georgians from four directions
I cadaret and thankful to the Russians that saved us. Have a lot to share, but gratitude is not the case. No matter what, I personally, still, Georgians believe the brotherly people. Our young generation need to stop this bloody series... about the devastation — the money of Moscow stood out and a lot to recover, but did not come, unfortunately, and ended up in the pockets of the local — now let look at the bare bushes.
PS I have an old family house in Znauri district, restore it.
AniliN
Alex, I'm not talking about the bombing, did I somewhere mentioned? I'm talking about a mess, garbage and dirt, about raw field and horrible quality roads... Distract you all from the war, and without it, all is not well in the country! Not the war in hohlyandii fault that Moscow asphalt melted with the snow, and in the Yaroslavl region on the pavement only memories. In the same way as in Abkhazia, where the war ended 23 years ago, as well as in South Ossetia, where 5 days of war was 7 years ago. Over the years, not done a damn thing. In Abkhazia still the walls of the houses split the pieces, it's accuracy? In Russia — you travel a lot, how many condemned, or abandoned houses? Only this my word: where are Russian — there — destruction.
A living example — Belarus. It's much closer to us? But it's nice to drive on the roads, walking in pure forests, stop at places on the roads.
In Abkhazia, I was recently. The procedure exemplary.In Gagra beauty, all restored...That's a feeling that people read manuals.Ukrainians also to Abkhazia trailer...up THERE. ORDER calm down. A disruption in your liberal heads, or the heads( who have both).
Something wrong? You have not called? Man, I am totally against policy putena in Ukraine, but the history was taught well. Ukrainians — old, once a pejorative, and then kind, humorous Ukrainians, known since the 18th century. Hohlyandii Ukraine, I was called at school, fucking Savetsky time. I think I have to relearn later. ;)
AniliN
Alex, I'm not talking about the bombing, did I somewhere mentioned? I'm talking about a mess, garbage and dirt, about raw field and horrible quality roads... Distract you all from the war, and without it, all is not well in the country! Not the war in hohlyandii fault that Moscow asphalt melted with the snow, and in the Yaroslavl region on the pavement only memories. In the same way as in Abkhazia, where the war ended 23 years ago, as well as in South Ossetia, where 5 days of war was 7 years ago. Over the years, not done a damn thing. In Abkhazia still the walls of the houses split the pieces, it's accuracy? In Russia — you travel a lot, how many condemned, or abandoned houses? Only this my word: where are Russian — there — destruction.
A living example — Belarus. It's much closer to us? But it's nice to drive on the roads, walking in pure forests, stop at places on the roads.
You hohlyandii easier, or we have a toilet to call?!
Alex, I'm not talking about the bombing, did I somewhere mentioned? I'm talking about a mess, garbage and dirt, about raw field and horrible quality roads... Distract you all from the war, and without it, all is not well in the country! Not the war in hohlyandii fault that Moscow asphalt melted with the snow, and in the Yaroslavl region on the pavement only memories. In the same way as in Abkhazia, where the war ended 23 years ago, as well as in South Ossetia, where 5 days of war was 7 years ago. Over the years, not done a damn thing. In Abkhazia still the walls of the houses split the pieces, it's accuracy? In Russia — you travel a lot, how many condemned, or abandoned houses? Only this my word: where are Russian — there — destruction.
A living example — Belarus. It's much closer to us? But it's nice to drive on the roads, walking in pure forests, stop at places on the roads.
This is a very unipolar view of things. Russia still remains the most wonderful and beautiful country in the world, in my opinion. Well, in any war there are two sides, demolished not only ours, and do not know who more. Tskhinval was bombed by the Georgians from four directions
I never Russophobe himself Russian in all generations. Not too little and drive around the country and abroad. Give an example on a global scale — where it goes well the presence of our brother and purity, right? In Belarus, the Baltic States and Europe on the one hand and Russia, Abkhazia, the Republic of South Ossetia on the other — are the same landscapes in terms of cleanliness of roads, forests, fields? The most significant route Moscow — Kaliningrad, right? Here in South Ossetia, I wasn't, but given the story and the pictures confirm my words. Sad and sorry for our people, to put it mildly, sloppy.
The situation is of course uniceuma... All the writing is certainly very interesting to read. but worry not, God forbid...
A little over a year ago, and probably he would be all different would be perceived.
And the scenery is super! Thank You for your work!
heilnull
It turns out, our convoy was allowed to leave the territory of South Ossetia?
people say different things. The basic version — the Georgian side tried. They don't like the South Ossetians
Sorry for that little talk, they just have something to tell readers and listeners
Thank you for your kind words, Guys!
Yes, Lesh... All the way: dead abandoned fertile land. For the sake of political games. I have two families here, friends, refugees from those places. This told me that not on itself became. Thanks for the review. You as always — at height.
Beautiful and sad photo report and comments ((( But Thanks anyway ! Waiting for other stories :)
Very sad to read such a text and to watch these photos in the 21st century. It would seem smarter to people for so many centuries, but no... Much needed for many of the silhouette of the enemy in the crosshairs
Do not go and sneak)) In my car for such rooms and toils in the process of customs clearance...
Freebie for "northerners" already almost over. Even the South Ossetian residence permit in the passport, does not help.
So just another scheme. The people registered in South Ossetia, and will not tamogat machine. More precisely tamogat, but at bargain rates. And goes to them, not the indigenous population, and the inhabitants of the North Ossetia
Alex, just returned from the route in Georgia and was surprised by the abundance of expensive cars with the numbers of RSO in North Ossetia. Not thought it all so sad. There is an opinion about their origin? If all it so sad, is this another scheme to escape from our customs clearance?
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What You want to say about the United States? What is wrong with that road? Were you there? And in Iraq, Libya and Syria? I was not, I can not compare, but I think there after the war to quickly bring order, and will not be a quarter of a century to blame all the troubles on the war.
In the mountains it's different, is not that feeling of war, destruction and some hopelessness. A sort of Ossetia from a Georgian accent...or Vice versa) I mean not literally, but in terms of landscapes and landmarks.
Not depressing and not embellish)
The sights there, I agree, but in such an atmosphere difficult difficult to contemplate in a relaxed way
Depressing as the quite you got it. Although of course the overall atmosphere is not rosy, but the local beauty and attractions are clearly not enough to "share" a positive.
View, by the way is what a lot.
Well, as it were in Lviv are joint exercises of Ukraine and the USA. Lviv or Ukraine?
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Where in Ukraine the United States?Or you have to Grozny too, the United States bombed, killed, raped?
Think not is soon to be journey. Possible in an already built city in the manner of the terrible
mdaaaa...that reminds me...something tells me that your next trip will be in the same abandoned Donbass...=(((
Ordinary citizens of the Empire generally were not in danger, but all of its neighbors, especially those who are trying to show independence, nothing good is not exactly shining.Have a nice travel!
I will not argue, but in this case there was smoke without fire. It is enough to go to Georgia to understand this, and I was there more than once. Something tells me that in our century will suffice durability of the Empire, and we will witness many Imperial deeds. The main thing that ordinary citizens not to suffer had.
And You good luck and the peace sky over the head!
Some post-Soviet republics to refuse from the standard weapons of the Soviet Union and buy Western weapons.This may explain examples of Western technology.I certainly understand that Russia is absolutely not happy to lose because the nearest market for their own weapons do not want anyone but the monopoly of the Russian Federation in the Republic and no one gave.All empires fall apart sooner or later!Russia will suffer the same fate, a matter of time.Good luck to YOU!
Well here you are pushing it a little bit, the opposition was, is and will be, and base the Americans really built equipment abandoned was very much still be seen in South Ossetia captured equipment, which had no way to get there but brought by the U.S. army.
If the state cannot adequately protect its security, it is itself torn to pieces. We've been through during the collapse of the USSR. Ukraine has been unlucky with only two things in this case: the door to the Empire (Yes, it's still an Empire) and the lack of power in the country. The helplessness of the authorities always pays people. But Kiev is understood that this will all end back in 2008, I was fortunate in London to talk to someone from the "top" in the Ukrainian government, so that I openly said that they are afraid as a mouse and waiting when Russia will take Eastern Ukraine back. Wait.
Just as in Russia, the war to justify, and no matter where.It should say on TV key phrase:"America wanted to put a military base"(C).And that's all!You can fight with anyone and anything...would have Thought, and why Russia and America?
very well written, and fotik class! well done Alex wrote the whole truth...
In 1993 I visited Yu.Ossetia...then it was all much worse!