Portage 2015. Dagestan. Part 1
Eighth expedition "Dies", launched on 18 April this year in Kaliningrad, held two weeks through Lithuania, Latvia, Estonia and Finland to Ladoga and further undertook a long journey from the source of the Volga to its mouth, reached the pearl of the Caucasus. This season the whole final stage is devoted to one Republic — Dagestan.
"How can PR Dagestan!" some, mostly those who have never been. It would be and more, friends, but there's no time. Fortunately, in recent years tourism in the region is slowly "swinging" and I'm not one soldier in the field twelve years ago, in 2003, when he brought me hard in the land of Mountains and that trip changed my life. No exaggeration. That is Dagestan I owe the fact that I wanted to see our country totally and completely, to know its face, not visible from Moscow, where I was born and raised. So forgive me for special treatment to the Republic, this is personal.
From Volgograd to Khasavyurt steppes we went two days. The test plane perfectly prepares the psyche to the Majesty of the mountains. True, the steppes of the Astrakhan region in early may, the ie produces an impression. First, here are the main tracts of sand, which are riding our rally the raiders, seriously believing that it's the dunes. No, my friends, the dunes in the Emirates or in the Sahara, and here... sand filled. And lizards launched)))
Although, to warm up, and Big Brother was a joy. Although, I think, during my participation in the rally-RAID "Khazar Steppes" in 2010, the sandbox was taller and bigger. Well, or I've just kind of outgrown this scale. It's not bragging, rather, thinking aloud. Remember, what was the superstitious fear when he arrived at KAMAZ to the dune and didn't know what to do with it. And now somehow all too easy... In Russia sand no. Alas.
In one of the houses (farms) found most amusing train consisting of a tractor T-150, scraper and trailer-crane
Well... poppies blooming steppe makes an indelible impression even if you see this riot of colors and scents every year. But such a large bloom in eight years, I saw for the first time. So spring 2015 will be remembered by me especially hard!
Enter the territory of Dagestan, the posts have all inspectors are aware of our expedition, such processions here do not happen often. Along the road, cutting through the Nogai steppe, sweeping peasant, manually cleaning the curb
And along the road everywhere poppies, poppies, poppies...
By the evening the weather deteriorated, it rained, and on the last special stage — kilometers of ground uphill from the fortress of a Sudden, almost nobody went, many decided to give the hook on the asphalt. The weariness and the reluctance to put the tent in the dark and under the rain. But five cars still risked shturmanut at night ornate serpentine, and I am sure never regretted it. Even toyotovskie petrol V8 from the strain was beginning to warm up and the guys stayed to chill the engines. In this rise proved itself to be my Goodyear MT/R Kevlar on the background of the BFG MT KM2. Photos of rise there — it was dark, scary and damp)))
In the morning all without exception, precipitated from the opened view of the Chirkey reservoir Frames are made at six o'clock in the morning, when most of the participants watched their puteshestvennitsa dreams.
Did not want to leave, but we had great beauty, most of which I didn't, because everything is already described in publications with intelligence and not repeat like. Besides, I had questions for the camp in Tlyaratinsky district, he did not really like it, and I rushed to correct the situation. The track goes through the Shamil district, very narrow and dangerous, constant rockfalls and repair of serpentine. Every year people die because of falling rocks, corpses often do not even find carries river. So don't ask me whether it is safe to travel to Dagestan...
As for Wahhabism and banditry — all is quiet. There are Wahhabis in almost every village, the bandits also probably have, but to tourists all this confusion has a very indirect relationship. We visit, they to us or not doing, or you never even know that they are "the same", you're fed, warm, to sleep put night and slaughter. From the "sharp" points of the Portage us military was not allowed in the village of Gimry, citing the "difficult situation". Not allowed okay, I'll stop.
It is impossible upsets in Dagestan, so this is a catastrophic attitude of the population and the authorities to the trash. All thrown into the gorge, the rain, all this "wealth" wash in the river. I would not want the raft to paddle down a river...
Floating like this, waving their oars, shove bottle and you from the rock arrives in a helmet of this here Bunker biological weapons... water protection area? No, not heard...
A village in the mountainous Dagestan with the name Albania is probably not random, because the land in the early first Millennium of our era was part of Caucasian Albania, an ancient state that emerged in the late II — mid I centuries BC in Eastern Transcaucasia, occupies part of the territory of modern Azerbaijan, Georgia and Dagestan
Stone arched bridges, one of the trademarks of Dagestan, especially Central and South. In some valleys there are dozens, and they replaced in no hurry to come modern shapeless concrete structure that architects in General should not have to pay salaries.
An alternative, more beautiful and comfortable camp I found... the home of the President of Dagestan Republic R. Abdulatipov. We have subjected to careful check and examination, but in no way did not hinder the desire to spend the night nearby, on the contrary, recommended some clearing to choose from and even invited, though once all 14 crews Yes, in one house. We politely refused))
For communication with officials in uniform and in civilian clothes, quietly into the mountains night had fallen, and the rise for a very action-Packed serpentine turns, impassable at one time, was in the headlights and the moon.
The camp was at the foot of the snows, still rise a hundred meters above, and it would be possible to sleep in the snowdrifts. It is a pity that the road "in the winter" has not corrected, she's all broken and blocked by landslides falling pine trees
To be continued!
Photos and the views are just great! :-) Plz don't rush the ending, let it go smoothly to Murmansk, and there already and to Karelia to start :-)))))
Wonderful report and stunning pictures Alex!
In continuing to add photos of the mountains if you can, you probably have great pictures, one photo of Mongolia near the instrument Hydromet worth something!
As always a great report. Thank you for the virtual tour. Waiting for the continuation.
I travel a lot, even in Aktobe have been a couple of times) join, of course)
This is a problem not only of Dagestan and the Caucasus, but also Central Russia, just the plain mugs are seen
Interesting essay and photos! About garbage I agree, almost all dropping it into the gorge, very ugly.
Well, in the last couple of years a lot better in the country and it is a confirm.
It's a matter of time and desire. Separate and extremely positive changes, I have the good fortune to observe over the past decade)
Lemyng
great scenery. the great tourist potential of the region !
Sorry that I can fully realize the full potential.
That's for sure! And the people are very hospitable, which is very important!
it remains to believe in the transmigration of souls, and at least 7 attempts to make it!))) Russia to drive not bad, and there is much time left!)
Very cool!, Yes, to overtake our country is that how many what contrasts! Good luck with the new rides!
Igor-Sergeevich
From the river in shock! The virgin nature and here on you! Truth and garbage trucks probably do not go there...
In Russia in General is a huge problem with the removal and disposal of waste just in the mountainous areas is stronger brosaetsa eyes(((
Maybe you're right, promotion of a strong move. It is necessary to write a lot to speak to the media.
I agree, although I think to us the repressive path is not applicable. Not the mentality we are brought up in the spirit of resistance to government and authority. To fear we have not, except that will find a way to pour some more branches or to give money to the inspector. It seems to me just what the volunteer movement is well sober consciousness of tourists, although their forces are not enough. It is rather the educational aspect, in my environment, for example, no longer need anyone to say that the camp of the expedition should be left clean, although when I started to organize the expedition, the problem was very sharp, we, the organizers, constantly scavenging for the participants, talked about the garbage on the briefings, wrote regulations, collecting environmental charges... now all in the past. So the problem has all chances to be addressed, if we are not going to wash his hands and blame the fact that we are not correctable. But the disposal plant, private initiative could not build, the government should also think at least a bit
Snitching is not because I hold a grudge, but just right. It's objectively. Admit it.
Have grown all the "the right thing" here only in words and on the sofas.
People almost totally comply with the laws, and it's not because they are few, they are even more than anywhere else. But the chaos is born in the "lower classes" of society leads to the fact that cope with the management tasks is not possible. The Baltic States had the same SOC as the rest. Dirt, destruction, lawlessness was the same in the 90s. But the system was reformed with the fact that the state became a COP. Ordinary people began to be afraid. Fear of justice. As time went on the system became a bit softer, but the head had to be reconstructed...
With regard to the Ministry of natural resources — it does not work, but bullshit. Look at what has become of the coastal zone of water reservoirs of large cities.
Overlap there are some volunteers who clean the beach, but I'm sorry it solves the problem only for a season.
in conclusion, I want to add that I recently became terribly, terribly disgusted to live in the suburbs. It is for this environmental problem. Corny kids for the weekend to nature nowhere. Or a circle of huts with fences or srach. No way to live.
Here in this salt. The laws we have, of course, but we'll never tell, and if you rat — on the rat head by unscrewing and will make life unbearable. That, too, in its own right. But the identity it brings up, on the contrary encourages the lawlessness. We have around each village can be found in the ravine unauthorized dump. If even pay out of pocket for garbage disposal at the solid waste landfill, it solves only the moral side of the problem, but not environmental — waste management we have built on a prehistoric level, plain of the landfill, and pouring the earth. From the total problem of fires on the landfill and groundwater pollution. But, alas, no reform is not expected even
great question!
Yes, there are certainly penalties, as well as in Russia, they also have. Engaged (in the case of forest areas) the Department of forestry households Islands, an analogue of the Russian Ministry of natural resources. In the urban area engaged the Police.
Growing up in practically the same! That's just punishment in est, as a rule, is inevitable. Will tell, will tell, you will find. In addition, fines and more. This in turn leads to the fact that people are afraid to do something against the rules. And after some time sitting in the head in the form of the notorious "self".
Is there some sort of accountability to the state for debris around the house/farm/village? Fines there, shooting?)) or is it a question of identity?
Look, Alex, my second home is impassable swamps in Estonia. And what do you think, there is generally a lack of public services. Living people do care about the cleanliness of their habitats. Go for groceries, pick up the trash. This is a common experience. Of course there are individual farmers who dispose (burn), but such units. Those who do not want to think about home logistics, call periodically special.service for export. But the trash is not lying around anywhere.
The question of money as always. This is a public service, they need to allocate the budget, and while this outrage will not be punished by the local administration on the garbage disposal will save
if the products delivered do not see a problem to get the garbage or pick up on the way back.
the thing is people...
From the river in shock! The virgin nature and here on you! Truth and garbage trucks probably do not go there...
NITR0US
There is a very beautiful place! But srach upset of course, did not think that there is there
Come visit to Dagestan! We will make a tour past the garbage .)))))
There is a very beautiful place! But srach upset of course, did not think that there is there
RUSlanAhmedov
A great route and very interesting! I go to the mountains when not behold the beauty and power of our mountains.
Well, where else can you see so many multi-colored bottles in the water? Sort of a rainbow happened.)))))
:-)))))
All you can find a fraction of a positive)) but the hill you have fabulous and very interesting history, about which little is known outside of Dagestan
A great route and very interesting! I go to the mountains when not behold the beauty and power of our mountains.
Well, where else can you see so many multi-colored bottles in the water? Sort of a rainbow happened.)))))
"In Russia there is no sand. Alas."
...is in Russia Sands! Certainly not in a global scale, but are no where) lesnyanskiy.livejournal.com/170449.html
Field with poppies...damn is that a real thing?))
Impressed!..
Thanks for the review, the text is interesting, the photo on the highest level!
In Dagestan, there are a lot of places do not like each other. Suggest next time to go through the Tsumadinsky, Tsuntinsky district to the border with Georgia, will see pristine nature, lakes, waterfalls . It's a pity no asphalt, torment. Himself from Dagestan, every once in hikes or bike rides marvel at nature.
Place you have is beautiful, and time itself will put everything in its place)) politicians come and go, and Dagestan remains)))
No wonder the translation of the Dagestan mountains, the country, our Russia is a fascinating country of many beautiful places we have, so probably life is not enough ), I come from Dagestan, but was born in Rostov and is constantly visiting there every vacation and relatives all there, except for the parents, they are also in Rostov, and always travel with an hour here I go again on vacation and very good.in Kubachi want to go look at. how real blacksmiths out there and make gold ornaments and daggers in General, we have very beautiful! that's just the local politicians do not want to restore the real beauty in terms of garbage collection, and lead to the Caspian sea in order but that's the fortress in Derbent recently restored ito from 2 attempts after he stole money
In reality, there are very good, but we need not rush. This is one of the few places where you need to go slowly, otherwise you will not feel the energy of the lake
I'd like to Baikal only by car, I read the pictures as you simply can not put into words how everything is super and in real life probably even cooler