Loud engine — Toyota Will VS, 1.8 liter, 2001
It all started that in the morning the engine started working like a diesel engine for me ... at first I sinned on the chain ... then after visiting the service I was delighted that it was not at all about her. and in the drive belt tensioner roller, namely, in the shock absorber mount of this roller design. (The place of ringing is shown here with red arrows).
decided to change the roller assembly,
(Even included a booklet for installation))))
for those who have the same problem ... and many people have the same problem, judging by the forums about 1ZZ-FE, it’s supposedly such a design feature of the shock absorber mount ... I prepared a small report with interesting points ...
1. Remove the drive belt. (it is removed quite simply, which you cannot say when assembling: -(...) it is with a key (there is a special recess for the key on the roller body at 19) slightly lower the roller and remove the belt from it ...
2. Unscrew the nut from the top mounting of the shock absorber
3. Then sekes begins. to unscrew the main bolt of the roller housing
you need to raise the engine. since, due to the design feature of the engine compartment, when unscrewing it, it will rest against the wall.
I just lifted the engine. jacked up the car under the engine, put a wooden ingot. then unscrewed the horizontal engine mount (just unscrew the 3 bolts with which it sits on the body)
, and lowered the car a little so that the engine rose literally by 0.7 centimeters ... this is enough to unscrew the bolt and remove the tensioner pulley.
reverse installation...
having tested the old video for backlash, I realized that the people who talk about the engine ringing due to the fastening of the ammort roller are RIGHT!
,
now the engine works like a clock without unnecessary sounds.
,
there was no time to make a detailed report, so excuse me ... and who was going to do this, write me, I’ll tell you
corollaz
they say there is a separate video itself! by the way, the roller and the tensioner itself fit from 1zz to 2zz and the piece of iron itself is different!
Is the tensioner assembly 100% suitable for 2nd from 1st? Someone set? Thanks for your reply in advance.
the roller tried to change the bearing in it (not that. at first a whistle, then a roar, as a result, the theme is the same
SergioTa
Ahaaaha) Brother)
I have been traveling with this balalaika for 2 months now. Only the bearing itself rattles in the video for me)
I did the same) I removed the engine cushion mount, jacked the engine, pulled out this "REALLY SEKAS" bolt, changed it and put it again, next week I'll also go buy this miracle. in the kit)
You did everything right so that you described everything buzzing)
I’m doing this process with my eyes closed)
py.sy.-you didn’t shoot the hydrach ))) here it’s not a sekas but a whole PORN!) you decide or pah pah there will be something, write )
they say there is a separate video itself! by the way, the roller and the tensioner itself fit from 1zz to 2zz and the piece of iron itself is different!
Ahaaaha) Brother)
I have been traveling with this balalaika for 2 months now. Only the bearing itself rattles in the video for me)
I did the same) I removed the engine cushion mount, jacked the engine, pulled out this "REALLY SEKAS" bolt, changed it and put it again, next week I'll also go buy this miracle. in the kit)
You did everything right so that you described everything buzzing)
I’m doing this process with my eyes closed)
py.sy.-you didn’t shoot the hydrach ))) here it’s not a sekas but a whole PORN!) you decide or pah pah there will be something, write )
it was the case … he scored after 15 thousand rattle again after the change began! spat!
some craftsmen fill in defective parts of the case with paxipol )))). thousand 20 say keeps