Hyundai Elantra 2006 painting

today I work with Hyundai Elantra 2006.
From my little experience I can tell you a little history of this machine on the basis of external factors of its condition to the body. Machine when it has received a small bump in before, maybe she had uncovered pillows and mean hood, load-bearing bone all whole, the wings are relatives, how did this impact my fantasy can not figure out) as the car is bought without the lower part of the front bumper — the story of his disappearance is unknown) for machine in native paint, when that was done the rear wing on the passenger side, so Kaka in the sun see the bunnies derived from the uneven shape on the bottom of the machine is not rotten, but scratches given the corrosion that you have to clean and clean in General, the works are not many, apart from the fact that most of it goes on the hood, which because of the numerous chips, began to be covered with mushrooms as outside, and on the reverse side. for khodovki machine alive, brought her to my father, and I will not have time to ride, maybe the car after painting for more than a week delayed and leaves. now down to business) all sensitive and non-controlling my emotions readers can feel free to close my blog)
I'd love to see this all esteemed knowledgeable person and helped me with advice on what and how I'm doing wrong, let me remind you — I am self taught, YouTube video of I was a teacher.
I take a small and easy-to-use bagirochka that runs from the compressor and cut off the rust to iron, so that there was not a single hint at the revival of the fungus — the question is whether this surface than it is to treat before applying the putty so that corrosion does not arise again? if Yes — then what? on this surface apply the putty Noval yellow, the first layer trying to cover the surface of the iron, then RUB clean with a dry cloth 120 and the second layers are deduce form the subsequent layer of paint, only in the appearance of deep scratches or "shells". The question is, if I work with very thin layers and I have putty rubs off on the zero-to-iron — whether it is possible to leave and to put under the primer on the bare hardware? usually, I try not to leave, but still) do I have to use liquid filler, if it turns out normal to reduce to a perfectly flat surface? what reasons can lead to the problem of sagging of the filler at the end — my personal speculation, when in thick primer, it is time to dry out and part of the solvent absorbed into the filler, which gives the residue — is it possible? try to apply thin layers and with an exposure for five minutes. if Yes, then according to this principle can and solvent with paint and varnish to give a Deposit? can water when mashing a primer — to help this joint?
Cover the machine with liquid filler + prepare the new bumper
after "working" the surface brought to a perfectly flat plane, the beginning of the pasted region, which will cover liquid filler, maybe a Jew.spar. not much dusting, and even its residue is removed, simply with a dry rag, I decided the car all don't cover. in the garage working extractor fan and the air circulation is not, in principle, allows the greater part of the particles to lie on the car. Went to work with the new front bumper. the bumper is plastic, a prior wiped it from dust, lost it, difficult to reach places and before application to the surface of liquid putty — inflicted NOVAL PLUS 700 adhesion increasing means. For applying it I took Satавский the gun that usually paint the car, maybe the second gun that I use for a ground I was not quite satisfied, maybe he allows himself some pride, for example to eject drops of material on the work surface. After processing the bumper lit liquid putty ) putty company Noval(SPRAY NOVOL(1,2 kg)), I am personally satisfied with their material, it is convenient, in applying and processing. Then the trick is to evenly apply it on the surface of the first layer and after 5 minute exposure of the second.) at the moment the machine is dry out, I think by evening it will ready for processing)
The liquid sealer used instead of primer? or even liquid filler is brought to the zero level surface need to be primed? if so, what gives a primer in this case?
Well, let's continue this is the third day of work with the machine — painting.
the first thing I take "prikolka" is a thing which is gaining water pump and water pshikat)))
take the sandpaper 400, soft rubberized thingy (don't know what to call her)))) use it in places where it is not convenient to use the bar, but the bar I also take it very smooth and on the bar box and the sandpaper bending it around the edges take water and allowed the stream to the place where they begin to jam the primer or liquid putty, if it's all a matter to do with no water, the sandpaper becomes clogged, after the second movement, so the water here is simply necessary. put the bar on the plane and while maintaining the shape of the movement start erasing the layer to zero so gently swiping her fingers did not feel the transition primer/putty with the old layer of paint. usually, if a lot of excess primer to apply (I will call it a primer TK usually use it, but on this machine instead of soil lies liquid filler) it's usually all unnecessary layers — except for irregularities, working area and region where first worn sandpaper — all primer is removed and it turns out that just translated a lot of excess material and wasted time and nerves on zlyvko soil. if used on a level surface, a soft rubber piece instead of the bar, you can grind some areas and make a hole in the consequence is well expressed in the sun. here, the result is overwritten after the primer I do not photographed, I forgot) here) when the car is all smooth, the transition primer does not feel the touch in the dry state are not visible millimeter strips between the face of the primer and old paint — the transition looks smooth and clear edges of the soil. then my car especially of the part that will be covered with paint and varnish to dry everything in place with a air compressor, and building dryer — a hair dryer should work very carefully, laying my hand on the machine and is controlled so that the surface is not tense and it's all made in motion. be sure to "blow" all the possible cracks and places where water, maybe when you paint a air can to blow the drop of water and it will jamb)
expel the machine from the workplace in the garage and all mine, the photo shows that the floor has already seen a lot of painting))) than to clean it? ideas in the comments) I have no spray booth and therefore the probability that there will be dust on the nail after painting — very large( try to moisten, wall shelves, in this day and sweeping does not work on dry with putty, so that the air as clean as possible from debris. Baiting mosquitoes, midges, flies and all similar parasites that can land at the right moment and immortalize yourself in the layers of lacquer on the body))) After I put the car back on and paste it to paint, closing the gap and trying to cover catch so that with the job, he got up and lay on the painted part.painting) Sata I, hi mask, turn on the hood, the paint is diluted with solvent 650, and start painting — working region — extract — all the detail — exposure — even at times to cover the entire part in a single tone, sticky cloth, collect dust from a surface covered with paint, dilute varnish and coating varnish with aging and in several layers, until it begins to give Shine to the surface yesterday so wing zakosciele( when spraying was shagreen and just blocked her and went flowed))) but I'm super professional))) not the first time the work itself is complicated))) so don't upset the car the night stand and 800, some water and a block of slow movements will allow the item in order)