Replacing the stove tap — logbook Toyota Soarer 1997
This device was bought from a padded litter and lay in the trunk until last night. After 2.5 hours of waiting until the machine cools down, it got pretty dark, but once I decided, it was necessary to change it. For driving in the refrigerator is already rather tired. At 23.40, the process of removing the faulty unit began. More precisely, only the vacuum bottle was faulty, but just in case, I took it along with a faucet and some kind of sensor.
The process is not difficult. Unscrew the two screws by 10 and push the two clamps with pliers. Everything. We put another one. I connect, I connect. I start the car, it gets hot. I turn on the stove. I turn the salon krutilka from cold to hot — warm air went! Hooray! The jar is working. I set it to 32 degrees, I turn on the air conditioner - it's just as warm! Joy has no limits! I put 28 - a noticeable cooling of the air, 24 degrees - even cooler! Uryaya! The climate is blowing!
And then I decided to look under the hood. And did I screw everything up well (read hermetically). And then all the joy is gone. A stream of antifreeze gushes from the faucet body. I run to the salon and set it to 18, the faucet closes - the antifreeze does not flow. Horror. Right now I'm going to mess with one of the two because I don't want to pour glue / cold welding and other nasty things there. I'd rather replace it with my faucet. True, I will suffer for another hour, but here everything will be 100% correct. Here.
this is what was needed! EXACTLY THE ROD DID NOT MOVE, the reason is the black-and-white pipe on the left in the hose, this is a valve, it was installed back to front and did not let the vacuum to the stove tap and the rod did not react. I found the reason for comrade BCRKO bcrko when they began to pick.
I also have a problem, in general, I bought a car, the chip from the valve was removed, I stuck it and forgot it in the summer, in short, it gets colder and the fucking stove doesn’t heat, I thought antiiriz, but after reading your topic I decided to look at the valve, in short, you connect the chip to the valve, the valve closes and there is a dubak in the cabin, you remove the chip, you pull it out and heat goes into the cabin, does this mean that the valve is trying?