Front axle. Axle replacement (disassembly) - Toyota 4Runner, 3.0 L, 1995

Previously purchased new front wheel drive axle shafts (see below) were safely installed in their original place.

It is not very clear why the service asked for 2500 rubles per side for this work. For a professional, work here is half an hour on each side.
We managed an hour and a half or two to the side, given that it was the first time for us, in general, and we had to figure it out and look for optimal solutions.

Yes, indeed, without removing the steering knuckle, removing / installing the semiaxis, if possible, is extremely problematic (we did not succeed). But the argument of servicemen in favor of the high cost of work, in my non-professional opinion, is completely unjustified, because in order to "disassemble the suspension" (as they said in the service), not so much labor is required.

Disassembly:

Immediately I give advice, calculated experimentally, an element of convenience.
Before raising the "operated" side while the suspension is loaded with the weight of the machine, it is prudent to install a spacer between the upper suspension arm and the rebound damper bracket under the arm. The fact is that with the suspension fully suspended, it will be problematic to remove the upper ball from the lever if it drops onto the buffer. The height of the spacer is quite sufficient if it fits into the described space (between the upper arm and the rebound bumper bracket) when the suspension is normally loaded (i.e. under the weight of the machine). Or (as was the case in our case), you can ask your partner to lightly lie on the car (footboard, kengurin, or just sit in the salon), so that the spacer enters the described space (i.e., it may be somewhat thicker).
And further.
Before proceeding with wheel removal, "pull off" 6 nuts securing the axle shaft to the gearbox flange. When the suspension is disassembled, it will be problematic to "pull off" these nuts due to their high tightening torque. I did this in 3 ascents and descents of the car, since it was more convenient for me to crawl from the bottom of the "pit", and the "shoulder" there can be used quite large. And in 3 steps - this is due to the fact that only 2 lower nuts are available from below, that is, you had to hang the wheel and turn it 120 degrees in order to start pulling off the next 2 nuts. In theory, you don't need to lower the car every time you can lock the wheel. (with brakes or wedge to the floor).

So.
1. Having previously installed the stopper on the upper arm, we hang the operated side with a jack (under the beam or support of the lever on the beam).
2. Remove the wheel.
3. Remove the center cap.
4. Unscrew the central bolt and remove the restriction washer.
5. Remove the drive shaft coupling (flange with 6 nuts). This element is very tightly mounted on the pins and pins with the help of split tapered bushings (do not lose it during dismantling!), And therefore its pressing is not too easy. Using a suitable wedge (screwdriver, ostomeska, thin chisel), little by little we wedge this flange at its junction with the hub from different sides. By removing this element, we thereby release the axle shaft and wheel hub from the connection.
6. Remove the retaining ring and washer on the splined shaft of the semi-axle (after removing it, the semi-axle freely moves in the hub bushing along the axis).
7. We release the connection of the brake pipe and brake hose from the bracket on the lever. In general, such an action is not provided for without depressurizing the brake system. But with us, for example, on the one hand, this bracket was "broken" and the connection simply dangled there. After cutting through the bracket and spreading the cut, the entire bundle of hose tubes from the caliper to the frame is released, which will allow free action 8. During reassembly, this connection is installed in place and fixed, for example, with a copper wire clamp. (if done accurately, it will be no worse and no less reliable than regular fixation).
8. Unscrew the two bolts securing the brake caliper to the fist (Caution! Do not drop this heavy crap at the last moment - you can damage the brake pipe!). We hang the caliper on a pre-prepared hook or wire on the hole in the mudguard of the engine compartment or any suitable nearby place (thanks to item 7, now this is possible and not difficult).
9. Unscrew the 4 nuts securing the upper ball to the upper arm. If the car stormed off-road, there is most likely a lot of land. Just clean with a screwdriver, or better with a wooden stick, this place. For greater ease, you can pre-soak the thread with a VD-shku, but everything has been unscrewed here "at once".
In theory, if there is a spacer described above, then after performing step 10, the upper ball will come out of the top lever under the weight of the fist and the lower arm. If it does not come out on its own, you can help her with gentle hammer blows on the upper shoulder of the fist, holding the fist itself so that it does not fall out too sharply. (It will not fall out at all, since it is held by the lower ball and steering rods, as well as the cavity in the upper arm).
10. Unscrew the lower ball joint (4 bolts, not a large nut). Now, the only thing that keeps you from pulling your fist is the tie rod. Well, God bless her! There is no need to disassemble this connection. It gives a sufficient degree of freedom to manipulate.
11. We remove the fist from its original position outward, at the same time the axle shaft comes out of the hub sleeve. (Here it is more convenient to work in 4 hands: one person takes a not too light fist, and the other helps to pull the axle shaft out of the hub seat)
That's it. We put the fist on the floor (I suppose the lifting height of the car is not too high and the length of the steering link is quite enough so that the fist would lie down and not hang. However, I think that hanging will not harm anything).
Now it remains only to unscrew the 6 nuts securing the axle shaft to the gearbox flange (which we have already "pulled off"). In principle, these 6 nuts can be unscrewed at the very beginning. By the way, if this is done, then the relative freedom of movement of the inner end of the axle shaft will facilitate the process of removing the outer end of the axle shaft from the hub of the steering knuckle.

Disassembly is over. You can remove the axle shaft. Theoretically, in any direction (even in the wheel well, even under the car).