3 New Notifications

New Badge Earned
Get 1K upvotes on your post
Life choices of my cat
Earned 210

Drag Images here or Browse from your computer.

Trending Posts
Sorted by Newest First

Front axle. Replacement of axle shafts (assembly) - Toyota 4Runner, 3.0 L, 1995

The restrictions on the volume of material did not allow placing both assembly and disassembly in one block. So the assembly is here.

And now the classic phrase ...
Assembly is carried out in the reverse order. :about)

1. We position the new semi-axle in the space between the lower arm and the frame across the car (the position is close to the standard one): o)
2. We put the steering fist on the outer end of the semi-shaft and ...
3. ... we install the steering fist with ball bearings in the regular places.
If the spacer described above is not too large, then it is more convenient to first bring the upper ball into its place (and even to add one or two nuts if possible. And then lower the fist to the lower ball and install the bolts in the same way.
I repeat that baiting the bolts right away is not a matter of principle. This can be done in the next step, because it may not work out right away.
A pry bar can help in the process of bolting into the holes for fastening the lower ball, which will help to install the lower ball in the appropriate position.
If you have not yet been able to secure one of the ball joints (and, most likely, it turned out to be some distance from the attachment point due to the same distance spacer), then you can bring it to the place by raising the lower lever.
We had more successful fastening "on the weight" of the lower ball, and the upper one had to "let down", for which we used a jack and raised the lower arm with a fist, directing the upper ball into the holes in the upper arm.
Have you fixed the ball joints? Excellent, we are going further.

4. Install the washer and the retaining ring into the groove of the semi-axle spline shaft (it is more convenient if the partner presses the external "grenade" to the steering knuckle, so that the spline shaft comes out of the hub harder, due to the compression of the oil seal - the groove under the ring in a free state may not come out from the bushing)
5. Install the coupling on the spline shaft (do not forget to install tapered bushings on the studs before tightening the nuts). It is possible that the position of the axle shaft splines and the location of the studs will not match: turn the axle shaft until it matches.
6. Install the restrictive washer and bolt it. We close all this economy with a cap.
7. Remove the support from the suspension and install it in its original place, after which we fasten it with bolts. (Do not expect that the caliper will hang in its original place without bolts - it will not.: O) So take at least one bolt right away and when installing the caliper, screw it on).
8. Replace the brake pipes and secure them to the bracket with a wire clamp.
9. Reinstall the brake pads. (of course, with all other elements: pins, cotter pins, shields ...)
10. Install the internal "grenade" on the gearbox flange studs and screw on the nuts of its fastening.
11. Install the wheel.

The assembly is over.

PS: Yes, do not forget to stretch all the screw connections with the appropriate moments (I do not know the numbers, of course, but reasonable efforts, adequate to the dimensions of the fasteners, nevertheless, I think, represent everyone who is independently able to do the above operations).
AND FURTHER! : o)))
When lowering the car from the jack, DO NOT FORGET to remove the spacer under the upper arm ...
We remembered about it when it (as you remember it was a socket head) itself fell on our gravel during preliminary run-in along the garage tracks. :about)))

Mileage: 330,000 km
214 Comments
Sort by: