Replacing piston rings and at the same time silent blocks of the lower levers, steering rods and tips - logbook Toyota Hilux Surf 1998

After 2 years of car ownership and personal mileage of 120,000 km. I felt that my Surfik began to go a little differently than before when buying, and after frequent trips to the northern capital, the oil left a little ... Without measuring compression, it was decided to replace the piston rings, but at the same time I decided to change the silent blocks of the lower levers, as they were already tired, although not completely, but the rubber in them was cracked and the steering ridges were together with the steering tips (with a tightened rail, a slight backlash was felt), although it was still possible to ride so much! Decided to order all parts through existential, as there is a choice, and stupidly cheaper!

What was ordered:
Japanese TP (TEIKOKU PISTON RING) STD piston rings - standard size, motor kit - 2259.00 rubles, waiting time - 3 days.
Cylinder head gasket of the Japanese brand MASUMA, MARK 1 (first size) - 1159.00 rubles, waiting time - 3 days.
Silent blocks of the lower levers (4 pcs.) I decided to buy Taiwanese RBI - 238.11 rubles. per piece Made by the way, as it turned out, qualitatively! Waiting time - 3 days.
Bushings and nuts with an eccentric for adjusting the camber - 2 pcs. which I could not remove, I had to cut it off with a grinder and order new ones from the German company Febest 208.07 rubles. per piece - a sleeve with an eccentric and 206.80 rubles. per piece - an eccentric nut.
Steering rods Direct Parts (Canada) - 241.27 rubles. per piece, waiting time is 3 days.
Steering tips of the Japanese company 555 (Sankei Industry Co., Ltd.) - 750.68 rubles. per piece Waiting time - 3 days.
For one I bought a high-temperature red sealant under the pallet, I don’t remember the price :) And also grease in the CV joints!

He did all the work himself, with the exception of pressing silent blocks into levers (400 rubles) and wheel alignment (650 rubles)! The collapse — the convergence was done here in Petrozavodsk in ADO AUTO (no more foot there), they did the fuck … but I can’t find other words! Convergence error - 6 minutes, 2 times more, instead of the prescribed 6 minutes, they did - 12! well, uyo ... ki?

For all this you need:
- A set of keys - Arsenal;
- torque wrench;
— Device for crimping piston rings.

As a matter of fact, I’ll tell you about the difficulties and the work being done ... I want to tell you not a small work :)

Stage one - head removal! removing the cylinder head required unscrewing and disconnecting many small vacuum tubes, chips, air, fuel and cooling system pipes! And all this must also be remembered in order to connect it back, and even correctly!
Naturally, to begin with, he drained the oil, antifreeze, then removed the batteries, removed the pipe from the turbine to the intake manifold, removed the air filter and the pipe from it to the turbine, then removed the valve cover, unscrewed the head mounting bolts and removed the head itself!

Stage two - removal of the pallet! The most hemorrhoid!
To remove the pallet, you need to remove the front gearbox (bridge), it is heavy and it’s not at all fun to shoot it alone! But before removing the bridge itself, you must first disconnect the front wheel drive shafts from the gearbox itself ... To do this, I unscrewed the lower ball joints from the levers and steering tips, removed the anther clamps and pulled the shafts from the gearbox and took them to the sides so as not to interfere ...
then unscrewing the 3 axle mounting pads and the driveshaft mounting bolts, removed only the axle itself!
After that, removing the sump seemed like a fairy tale, twist the bolts for yourself, and twist it ... I removed the sump, unscrewed the oil intake and proceeded to remove the connecting rod caps and pull out the pistons (also not a difficult task!)
I put each connecting rod cover in order opposite each piston with a connecting rod, so as not to confuse! I cleaned the carbon deposits in the upper part of the cylinders and looked at the output ... But there is practically none! on the walls of the cylinders, even traces of honing are still visible! This made me happy! measured the diameter of the cylinder, the size coincided with the standard, i.e. the engine from Japan has never been disassembled or bored! I did not measure with a caliper on an ellipse!
I inserted the upper compression ring into the cylinder and measured the gap in the lock with a feeler gauge, well, instead of the prescribed 0.35-0.57 mm. it was 0.8-0.85, although the maximum allowable was 1.03 mm., Then I inserted the second compression ring into the cylinder and measured the gap in the lock, it was 0.5, it was in the prescribed zone of 0.4-0.6 mm. , and the maximum allowable for the second compression is 1.10 mm, the oil gap did not measure!
Next, I cleaned the piston and piston grooves from soot and began to slowly put new rings, first also measuring the gap in the locks! The locks of the first compression and the second should be opposite each other (180 degrees) and the locks of the oil scraper ring and springs should also be opposite each other and at an angle of 90 degrees relative to the compression rings! I set the locks at the right angle and, using a crimping device for the rings, began to install the pistons already with new rings, each into its own cylinder, so that the arrow stamped on the piston was in the direction of the direction of the car, well, in other words, in the direction of the radiator! I tightened the connecting rod caps with a torque wrench with a force of 30 kgf * cm and then turned it 90 degrees (everything is shorter according to the manual).
I put all the pistons with connecting rods, tightened the covers, screwed the oil intake and applied red sealant to the pan and installed it! then I installed the head, also tightened it with a torque wrench with a force of 40 kgf * cm and turned each bolt 2 times 90 degrees in a certain order! installed all attachments in the reverse order, connected all the pipes and chips in place, filled in new oil and antifreeze and bled the fuel system, started the engine and ... Oh my god, he whispers :)) put the bridge back in place ( fuck ... sya ) Then he proceeded to pressing out old silent blocks and pressing in new ones and installing on Surfik! unscrewed the steering rods from the steering rack, approximately measured the distance from the steering rod to the steering tip finger on the old ones with a vernier caliper and installed new steering rods with new steering tips, taking into account these measurements, so as not to eat rubber until I go to the collapse — convergence … That's actually all! :) business then :) if it weren’t for the bridge…

I spent 5 days on everything! one day for dismantling, 3 days for ordering parts and one day for assembly! That's how I tinkered :))

PS Meanwhile, our Karelian drivers were riding on the Syamozero to rest, but I still had no time ...