Noise isolation of the bottom and arches (outside) — Toyota Camry, 2.4 liter, 2008
Noise isolation is such a thing — a contagious thing. All my cars go through this process. Otherwise, it would be strange - a shoemaker without boots. Well, it turned out to be a free weekend, and despite the displeasure of my wife, I still decided to devote the weekend to the car. That is, start making the car noiseless.
The most difficult stage is preparation, in other words, it was necessary to wash the bottom and arches to a shine. All sorts of ways and means were used. From a banal wash with Karcher and non-contact shampoo, to special cleaning products for anticorrosive. And lastly, degreasing the treated areas. This took me 9 hours.
Further application. The choice of materials is not great, or glue STP vibroplast (at your own risk) or spray Noxudol 3100 (expensive, but reliable). Even at cost, my cough lost weight normally, I began to spray Noxudol 3100, and poured in a good amount of material (it would be enough for the noise of a small car interior), but I still do it for myself.
The third stage - although Noxudol 3100 is a very durable material, but in my opinion, this is just soundproofing, and such things must be protected from sandblasting (the Swedes disagree with me) - a solid layer of liquid fender liner solves this problem (this is my personal opinion).
Bottom line:
30 liters of Noxudol 3100, 7 liters of Noxudol AutoPlastone (liquid fender liner), adhesive tape, film, solvent and other small things worth 19,800 rubles were spent.
As for noise:
Up to 130 km / h the wheels are not audible, then the noise grows and breaks through the doors.
Vibration from the floor was halved. In other words, the work I have done is an excellent addition to the overall sound insulation of the car.
Issue price: 19 800 ₽ Mileage: 22�800 km
This is the first time I've heard of such noise. Respect to the author and gingerbread.
For comparison (we take the entire interior) - If you glue the STP (solidly), then 50-60 kg will be added, if you spray Noxudol 3100, then 10-15 kg
I don't sell anything. I didn't sell anything. I don’t need it. And there are enough anticorrosive agents with miraculous properties and certificates on the market. By the way, yes, I plan to try Noxidol (with different noise absorbers) with measurements, but these will be different options not for me, but for people who come to me. I don’t work as many are carbon copies. Good luck to you too.
You are well done! They beat me beautifully. I admit my defeat. Once again, I wish you successful sales to gullible simpletons. They are very fond of references to authorities and certificates. But you need to be more careful with this - you can believe in your own nonsense yourself. Well, such is the nature of man - we inspire (and self-suggest). Again, I apologize if I offended you. All the best.
vidoogl
Buddy! What was at hand, then I used it. I wanted, as they say, quickly, on my knee, to estimate one to the other and compare, having some tool for comparison. And the sound level meter is just one of the elements of this instrument (unless, of course, that's what I piled up). I believe that I received the correct data, allowing me to draw some conclusions. As a result, I have an opinion on this matter: "vibra" on noxudol is like a donkey on the races of trotters. Inappropriate. Ridiculous.
you yourself answered your own questions, those below. my posts are understandable. worked with all (I repeat ALL) materials applicable to noise and vibration isolation of cars and certified. that’s all. I won’t protect the anticorrosive and make it a super cure for noise insulation. But I won’t say anything bad either, because it also works + it definitely won’t get worse. vibration + noise absorbers. I hope I have clearly stated my point of view on this issue?
You really don’t know how to read? I didn’t do noxidol over vibra. I wrote that those who spray it do this. You go to the sites who do it. Do not torture. I can make your plates quieter than usual. It just has nothing to do with noise reduction. you need to use a spectrum analyzer. on the car itself in motion there are many nuances up to the temperature outside. In principle, I did not expect other answers from you. they could not be. in professional topics. good luck.experience comes with age.
Here does not give the child a mobile phone of rest! What clung to her. What if a professional tool was used? What would change it? A simple comparison was made. Yes, rude, but the experience was set quite correctly. In order to compare which of the pencils is longer and which is shorter, a reference length measure is not needed, and you can do without a super-duper accurate ruler. It is enough to put them side by side on a flat surface - and everything will become clear. But how much they differ can be measured using a measuring tool, with the accuracy that is required. And noxudol on top of the "vibra" - wow, brilliant! I am proud of you! Buddy! Shaman further. Meditate. Don't seek knowledge. Judging by the style of writing, you do not need knowledge. Strengthen your faith in "VIBRUUUU". Happy selling and all the best. Do not be angry - not out of malice. I wanted to do well, but I couldn't help you. Sorry. Farewell.
You need to study it yourself and not knock on the plates with a mobile phone in your hands and look for the mythical 26 dB and above. Goodbye. if there is nothing to say on the topic, insults should not be expressed. I asked you higher than you worked? further discussion is not interesting.
My friend, study the materiel! Otherwise, you wander in the darkness of ignorance and witchcraft shamanism.
In general, I didn’t offer to glue vibra on-noxydolol. They do it the other way around. mobile is not the most accurate tool. I just wanted to say that noxidol will not give a better result than ordinary sizing. it is necessary to do this on several cars ... nokxidol should not be attributed mythical properties that it does not possess. enough reviews to read on the forums. cars from the initially noisy ine buzzes, unlike other Japanese women.
Buddy! What was at hand, then I used it. I wanted, as they say, quickly, on my knee, to estimate one to the other and compare, having some tool for comparison. And the sound level meter is just one of the elements of this instrument (unless, of course, that's what I piled up). I believe that I received the correct data, allowing me to draw some conclusions. As a result, I have an opinion on this matter: "vibra" on noxudol is like a donkey on the races of trotters. Inappropriate. Ridiculous.
It is enough to understand 2-3 dB noise reduction by half. Very dubious devices were used. The plate will not give anything except vibration. More precisely, the effect is only for the client, he knocked and heard in reality everything is more complicated in the car. I saw many works with Noxidol plus they used vibration because Noxidol did not cope. But slightly different materials are needed from the noise. You can generally make a car without vibration and it will be quiet.
Do not get angry. Didn't mean to offend. I'm not going to do it myself. I tried different options: I processed samples (plates 30X30 cm, 0.5 mm thick), hung them by the corner and hit the sample (a 14 nut suspended on a thread and retracted from the sample at the same distance). Measurements were made using a smartphone. The best results (with a comparable mass and thickness of the coating) are for Noxudol. Of course, these are not experiments with a real car, but at least something. By the way, a friend needed to "muffle" the gearbox. To do this, they placed it in a tin casing, treated with Noxudol on both sides (approximately 0.5-1.0 mm, in a hurry, with a brush). The result impressed and puzzled - minus 26 decibels. All sorts of doubts - was it measured that way? However, a repeated experiment gave a similar result. So I think that sculpting something else on Noxudol is too much.
I answered in your style (very doubt).
if there is something to say with arguments, I listen. what did you work with? materials. name of the manufacturer?
"So by the way, many do" - still not an argument. And here's what makes the effect better. I'm guessing it's "butter oil".
your right. in a complex in vibra + noise insulators, the effect is better. by the way, many do it.
well done of course. but it’s better to roll up the same stp (sgm) it will be better than your aerosol and really heavier. it is possible to achieve a better effect without arches (only the interior) did not understand the doors glued? on the topic, five from me. I used these aerosols even with vibra, they are not equal.
The material is very strong, you can strike as fast as you want, but everything has a limit.
very cool!)) do I understand correctly that the wheels are not heard at all until 130? especially on rough pavement? if so, then it’s super, otherwise the Japanese have poor soundproofing of the wheels — I’m judging my car.
Haven't decided yet, just gathering information. The start of work is scheduled for mid-June, there will be conditions for this. Right now, the car is in a cramped someone else's garage. Also, a little welding will come in handy)) (VAZ 21011, 1976, almost new)))
Yes, and right. Construction spatula and a lot of strength, after the solvent and immediately apply new material. What will you process?
Factory anticorrosive. I decided to do it with the help of builds. hair dryer, scraper of some kind and solvent. Cheap and cheerful.
AleXX-br
In my city there is only ribbed asphalt, on a good road there is complete silence, I turn on the music to a minimum and nothing can be heard except the music.
Lech, please write in more detail about: "All sorts of methods and means were used. From the banal washing with Karcher and non-contact shampoo, to special means for cleaning anticorrosive." I will be very grateful! I'm more interested in the means by which ... I need it, but I thought about sandblasting. Further, I already think that it is easier and cheaper.
clearly, in combination with the Shumkov of the cabin, you generally have super comfort and buzz) )
In my city there is only ribbed asphalt, on a good road there is complete silence, I turn on the music to a minimum and nothing can be heard except the music.
Inside the cabin, of course, but it’s not worth rolling from the outside, it’s not reliable.
well done, but the price tag is certainly not weak. I prefer to say cheap and angry, NP + Splendid 8k. I kanesh understand that the weight and everything needs to be disassembled, but it’s fashionable at the same time to lay acoustic wiring according to the mind =) but in general, respect for the car and for the work =)
As I decide to sell, first of all I will let you know, well, unless of course the Camry is to your taste.
interesting ... but I thought Noxudol bottom is processed only for anticorrosive. and for Shumkov it is necessary to process the interior ...
there is another topic, dinitrol 479 3 in 1 liquid wheel arch liners, anticorrosive, vibration and noise isolation, and it costs much less and cheaper!
I tested it for 2 years (not on my car, of course), everything is in place, the main thing is to properly prepare the surface.
Noxudol 3100 used on Supra. For 25 thousand km, not a piece has fallen off - I agree that it is resistant.
Where do you buy? If possible, answer in a personal (I do not want links to competitors)
and by the way, one arch of the Lexus was processed by him)) then the bank ended (for a new one, go to the other end of the city
In the store on Kashirskoye shosse.d.53 there is a bunch of all kinds of chemicals and a good assortment of motor oils. I took a straboskome for a non-contact ignition system in the same place - in short, a useful store, and even a round-the-clock one
Damn, that's how to do all the bottom — my dream — I really think my cars already don't care about it! And if you make a new car like this, it will be almost eternal!
I don’t know where the legs come from, but the suspension is very reliable, this is already my third Toyota and there were no problems with the suspension at all.
By the way, looking at the suspension, I understand that Toyota still won’t get away from this mega-reliable scheme - suspension on subframes - the bastards don’t even change the geometry of the levers. Those. the legs of all this go to the early 80s
Excellent workmanship! If possible, I would like to evaluate the noise in the cabin on the video! If you can’t hear the rubber up to 130 … it’s just fantastic)!
thanks, I’ll think … it’s easier for you — the car is almost new, but mine is not quite. First I’ll try to wash the bottom and evaluate it for corrosion, because it’s stupid to apply it to corrosion, even though it’s a galvanized Volvo ...
If according to technology, then see here infero-group.ru/content/view/28/, but if according to ours, you can use a regular anti-gravel gun, but you will need experience in applying an even layer of no more than 1 mm.
30 liters spent? slander. and they poke into a balloon at a gallop? standard half a litre?
To be honest, I have not seen this yet ... It is clear that comfort is very important for a person! .. the highest rating)
Aleksey, you are just a real shoemaker, you need patience to do such work ... Excellent rating.
Well, you're just great! Not only did you spend 9 hours near the car, you also managed to take time off for the whole day with your wife :-))), otherwise it happens that they don’t let you dig in the car. Catch + for work, v. like it
it is better to roll the fender liner with the same vibration (from the inside), you will hear less pebbles, and the splenitis will definitely fall off, but you can try to buy a thicker one and clamp it with a locker.
AleXX-br
Bitumen and polymer are different things bitumen is designed more for vibration and not for noise, but I have both polymer (Noxudol 3100) and bitumen with glamorous additives (Liquid fender liner).
Outside, the bimast is somehow dumb, I don’t advise it, it can fall off or even worse, peel off a little and condensation forms.
And splenitis on the fender liner (locker) can not be glued?
50-70% of the noise depends on the rubber, I was convinced from personal experience when I bought a toyo, it feels like I didn’t make a noise at all, and even spikes are not heard on the winter hack.
No, it won’t fall off - I warmed it to such an extent that it was impossible to touch with my hand! But still there is noise - I sin on rubber!
Bitumen and polymer are different things bitumen is designed more for vibration and not for noise, but I have both polymer (Noxudol 3100) and bitumen with glamorous additives (Liquid fender liner).
Outside, the bimast is somehow dumb, I don’t advise it, it can fall off or even worse, peel off a little and condensation forms.
Cool !
But I and other Skodas have such garbage PPD (a package of bad roads) - these are shorter springs and a coating of the bottom like bitumen) Can such a coating be considered on a Skoda Noxudol 3100?
I made myself a Shumkov salon - there are still a lot of all sorts of incomprehensible noises) And right now I'm doing an external Shumkov wheel arches - Glue Bimast Bombs)
Well, that's all I'll do, thanks! It remains only to find NOXUDOL 3100 in our city until the car arrives!
And if you treat the arches and bottom with Noxudol 3100 first, and then with Dinitrol 479, will there be an effect?
Today I learned, called "Dinitrol 479" (3 in 1) anticorrosive, Shumka, and sandblast protection! They said that this is a new development, unlike all the others, 1.5 - 2 mm is applied. Maybe you know about this "Dinitrol 479"?
A can of liquid costs 1,500 rubles, enough for 2 cars, it affects noise at a thickness of 3-4 mm (and even then not much), but believe me, no company will bother, they will apply 1 mm and that's enough. Liquid wheel arch liners are not soundproofing, they are bitumen anticorrosive, the task of which is to keep sandblasting. To protect the bottom, oil-based anticorrosive is better, but on the arches there are liquid fenders. And what will become quieter is the self-hypnosis of those who have already given money for liquid fender liner.
I ordered a kamryukha and they suggested that while it is new, it is desirable to process the arches and the bottom with a liquid fender liner, they said that it acts as a Shumka and body protection, it costs them 13,000 rubles, so I wanted to ask an experienced person: expensive, not expensive, worth it, not costs?
Very rewarding. Well, the approach to business is of course at the level ... very impressed.
1 - It is possible (for better protection), but not necessarily
2 - There is no factory anticorrosive, if you still find something on the body of your car, then you need to look at the condition, if the base is bituminous and everything is holding up well, then washing is not necessary.
3- And what forces did I do? Of course it will!
Professional work! please tell me - is it necessary to install plastic fenders (on the prior) when using liquid fender liner, when anticorrosive treatment with nuxudol material, is it necessary to wash the factory anticorrosive? And another question is whether it will be possible to do it on your own, provided that you have a compressor? Thanks for the answer!
Well you are a giant! Done such a volume! And the salon was too lazy to disassemble? Noxudol 3100 is more expedient to apply from the inside to the salon. And outside enough Noxudol Auto-Plastone. However, the option is very viable (especially on a new car).
The salon can and should be treated with Noxudol. I consider it superfluous to glue over anything - noxudol copes well with noise and its thermal conductivity is like that of wood.
And the interior can be covered with this and what will be the result, I think to do so what would you advise to glue the interior or spray
Kick-Ass. Yes, you have a factory Shumka on your kamryukha:) that’s not laziness, after all.
I can’t really decide to finish processing 3100 from the inside of the cabin. Who says what: someone like in a barrel then at speed, and someone is very pleased. So the effect remains incomprehensible to the end. I have a Corolla.
Hey! Did you wash the arches and the bottom with a mud cutter or a regular one? I also want to apply on the arches, but I'm afraid that the mud mill can catch the paint.
and in the end, did you hang the factory fenders back? I still think to walk through the arches for the fender liner. And make the bottom like yours.
Neat and beautiful. It’s a pity I don’t have a lift, otherwise I would also stick under the car in the evenings after work. Can you tell me how much it was in dollars? And then with the course of misunderstanding, and in rubles I am not guided.
The easiest and cheapest way, white spirit))) proportions are not so important, by eye to a state sufficient for application through an anti-gravel gun. It is advisable to buy an anti-gravel road for thick mixtures.
Tell me, I bought Noxudol AutoPlastone in a bucket - thick, do not spray through a gravel gun. How and with what to dissolve? Proportions?
The question is off topic. Why are the brake discs yellowish? Or is that how the photo was taken?
1mm each, dried with a gun. You will have time in a day if you prepare all materials and cars for application. Fender liner can be applied immediately after the Shumka dries. After a couple of days, the effect will intensify, Shumka takes time to dry completely. Ready-made in balloons but more expensive, in buckets it is necessary to stir with water, quite a bit, it should remain thick. Buy a more expensive respirator, it will be very unpleasant and hard to breathe, also buy an anti-gravel gun for thick mixtures.
Thanks for the information. I read the manufacturer's website, watched the video instructions. Questions still remain:
2 - As I understand it, you applied a layer of about 4 mm in stages. 1 mm applied and waiting for drying (until it becomes beige about 30 minutes)? Etc. Then immediately liquid fenders? Why am I asking, I will rent a lift and I would like to know if I can manage it in a day or not.))
3-But 1600 is suitable for protecting 3100?
5-They also stir pasta in buckets for a long time. And in balloons per liter, you can’t really interfere and they are immediately used on the video. Is there a different consistency?
1-yes
2- the smaller the layer, the faster it dries, when applying a layer of more than 3-4 mm, it is problematic to dry, a dry crust forms on top, and remains raw inside.
3 are similar, but still slightly different materials.
4- the site has been closed for many years, maybe you should look for information on the official websites of the company, because of the dollar exchange rate, such noise insulation has become irrelevant))
Great job! A couple of questions on the merits:
1. Is it enough to degrease the bottom on a new car?
2. Layer about 1 mm, and between layers wait 6-12 hours until completely dry?
3. Is UM1600 an AutoPlastone replacement?
4. There are only alarms on the infero-group website now, is there any more information left somewhere?
Question: they say that after 3 years of driving on roads where there is a lot of moisture and salt, in cities like St. Petersburg, rust appears between this anticorrosive and metal due to the moisture that forms there. Have you experienced this? Simply, I take the car and think whether it is worth doing such processing in the cabin for 22,000 or is it enough to put lockers with noise.