Trunk electric lock — logbook Toyota Corolla 1999

No, well, since there is such a function on the signaling, then you need to implement it! I really had to sweat and swear at Krivorukov signaling installers. I had to pull the wire to the trunk limit switch, as it was connected to the limit switch of one of the rear doors. And the extra wire the channel was generally disguised as standard wiring, I barely found it. Along the way, I replaced a burned-out diode in the power circuit of the left turn signals. Now the car, as before, meets me with a joyful blinking of all turn signals! Hurray comrades!

Activator put on the stiffener of the trunk. Cable drive, hooked to a standard place in the lock. There is also where the cable coming from the cabin. I thought that it was much easier than to stir up traction. bend them, adjust. To make the activator work only in one direction, I modified it with a spring.

The work of the raw version is here:

Activator -200 rub.
Relay 4k - 50
Relay block - 30r.
Fuse and sealed block under it - 30r.
4 meters of acoustic wire, a cable with a short "shirt" and a diode - for free. Props to Andrew!
UPD from 05/20/11

Since my whitefish controls the upstream channel with a signal of negative polarity (that is, a minus), therefore we start this wire to one of the contacts of the relay winding. Accordingly, we hook a constant plus to the second contact of the winding (it doesn’t matter where it comes from, the main thing is that with the ignition off it should be + 12V). In the positive wire circuit not far from the place of wedging into the factory wiring, I recommend putting the F1 fuse (5-7.5A is enough). and by the way, it also doesn’t hurt to put the same F2 fuse in the activator’s power circuit, all the same, a high-current circuit. Minus the activator we cling to the body near the installation site.
The physics of the process is as follows. Since a constant + comes to the K1 coil of a normally open relay, when a negative polarity pulse from the alarm is applied to it, the coil is triggered and closes the normally open relay contacts. Since the minus of the activator is reliably in contact with the ground, when the contacts of our relay are closed, a voltage with positive polarity is applied to its second contact and the activator is triggered. After some time, when the control signal from the alarm stops (~ 1-2 sec), the relay de-energizes the activator and it, under the influence of the spring, returns to its original position.
And let me remind you again, do not forget to connect the trunk limit switch to the corresponding wire on the alarm unit for the correct operation of the electric drive. If you leave the trunk limit switch powered to the limit switch of one of the rear doors, then the signaling will not know that you have opened the trunk and when you slam the lid, closing it, the car will scream heart-rendingly with a good obscenity - they say, the owner is beating me =)))
Ps The relay diagram is drawn incorrectly with point of view of electrical engineering, but too lazy to draw, as always =)))